You might know Lucca because of its perfect Renaissance-era walls that you can circumvent the top of via bike or foot. Or perhaps because of the annual summer music festival, which draws international headliners like J.Lo, Nile Rodgers, and Katy Perry. Or maybe you know Lucca for another reason entirely: the city is the birthplace of composer Giacomo Puccini of La Bohème and Madama Butterfly, hosts Europe’s largest Comic Con and a fabulous monthly antique market, and has a famous villa designed by Napoleon’s wife and modeled after Versailles. 

No matter the reason, it’s clear that Lucca more than pulls its weight in a region not without other gems. In a fertile plain between the Apuan Alps and Tyrrhenian Coast just north of Pisa, the city dates back to Etruscan times and was named for “sacred grove” (Latin: lucus) and “luminous space” (leuk, a term used by the first European populations). Today, the city is a vibrant “Città d’arte” (City of Art), with layers of history that still make way for hip, innovative spots and people. Read on for our local’s guide to Lucca. 

WHERE TO EAT IN LUCCA (CENTER)

Osteria Miranda – This is one of those spots that feels both elevated and totally comfortable, with a classic osteria vibe. The kitchen takes a creative, seasonal approach to regional ingredients, rotating its menu six times a year to showcase hyper-local Tuscan produce at its absolute peak. Expect elevated takes on classic comfort foods—like hand-rolled pastas and expertly executed land-and-sea mains—paired with a curated wine list heavy on regional reds. Don’t miss the tagliatelle all’ossobuco.

Chiasso13 – Down a narrow alley off Piazza San Michele, this intimate, energy-filled bistro has a menu full of surprises. Favorites include the beef carpaccio and the tagliolini with dill butter and trout eggs. They also have a sommelier-driven list of funky, natural wines, and we like to opt for the breezy outdoor seating during warmer months. 

Da Gigi – Lively, unpretentious, and packed with Lucchese locals, Da Gigi nails the neighborhood joint vibe. It’s all about honest Tuscan comfort food—think rich, slow-simmered stews, vegetable soups, and perfectly seared tagliata. Come autumn, don’t miss the pumpkin and sausage risotto. 

Ciacco – A favorite for panini and crostoni that punch above their weight. Right on Piazza Napoleone, it’s perfect for a midday bite or a casual aperitivo with a tagliere. The panino al roast beef is a must‑order, as is the one with salsiccia cruda and squacquerone cheese. 

Osteria da Pasquale – This is one of Lucca’s landmark restaurants, with a relaxed ambience best for a leisurely dinner with friends. Dishes range from classics like tagliolini con ragu bianco to innovative takes like gnocchi with pecorino and mussels or the tagliata di tonna. Their wine cellar is particularly of note, with a strong showing of Tuscan reds, including some from their own vineyard; you can also buy wine to take home. 

Pergola – This lunch spot is more about the atmosphere than the food. The dishes are simple and straightforward (expect basic meats and primi), and for €10, you’ll get a full meal surrounded almost entirely by locals; construction workers, craftsmen, retirees, shopkeepers, and an artist or two fill the room every day. It doesn’t matter whether the house wine is a little watered down—that’s part of the experience.

Ristorante Giglio – Set inside a beautiful 18th-century building on one of Lucca’s main squares, Giglio is helmed by chefs Benedetto Rullo, Lorenzo Stefanini, and Stefano Terigi, a trio who recently made headlines by voluntarily giving up their Michelin star to focus on high-quality, accessible dining without the fine-dining formality. Originally founded in 1979 as a seafood restaurant, you’ll now find dishes like Parmigiano risotto and guancia di vitello—though the spaghetti ai ricci remains the absolute must-order, preceded by any of their seasonal seafood crudo starters. 

Gigliola – The more casual offshoot of the Giglio restaurant, Gigliola is a bakery-osteria hybrid with a strong natural wine list (more in the WHERE TO DRINK section below) and a kitchen that looks well beyond Tuscany. The menu pulls from global influences—think juicy jiaozi, steamed bao with fried calamari, and an especially good hummus—served in a relaxed, informal setting. Don’t miss the Thai fried chicken.

WHERE TO EAT IN LUCCA (OUTSKIRTS)

Cucina dello Scompiglio – Translating to “Kitchen of Disarray,” this restaurant cooks straight from its organic gardens and surrounding woods. Part of an avant-garde cultural center, the kitchen creates limited-edition menus tailored to the estate’s art and theater residencies—turning themes like memory, land, and local agricultural trends into dishes featuring wild-foraged greens (erbi) and artisanal cheeses. Check their website for current exhibits and dining dates.

Ristorante Lombardo – In the Lucchese hills and just a 15-minute bus or car ride from the city, this trattoria is a go-to for cooking that truly reflects the region. Made for lazy, sunny outdoor lunches, this spot excels at housemade pastas and hyper-local produce. Order the garmugia—a local soup loaded with ground veal, pancetta, and spring veggies—and their top-tier tordelli lucchesi.

Fattoria Sardi – Spanning 18 hectares of olive groves and woods along the historic Via della Maulina, this estate pairs an organic winery run by Matteo Giustiniani and Mina Samout with Chef Damiano Donati’s inventive, veggie-forward kitchen. Donati’s seasonal menu evolves constantly: roasted cabbage with fermented plums in autumn, winter cecina with puntarelle and spirulina, or hand-cut tagliatelle with butter, lemon, and guinea fowl ragù come spring.

BAKERIES/CAFÉS

Caffè Santa Zita – Come to this elegant café with a leafy back garden on Piazza San Frediano for refined pastries, housemade tarts, and its signature “Miracoli di Santa Zita”—herb-infused shortbread cookies turned light green in honor of Lucca’s patron saint. Pair your drink with a flower-shaped giunchiglia or a classic frolla while taking in the piazza views.

Buccellato Taddeucci – At this historic bakery on Piazza San Michele, the buccellato—Lucca’s ring-shaped sweet bread studded with raisins and anise—is the bona fide classic, whether you take it plain, toasted, or with butter and jam for breakfast. Alongside buccellato, you’ll find rustic Tuscan sweets, from cantuccini to panforte, and a few savory focaccias too.

Forno Francesco Casali – The long queue here (of mostly Lucca residents) is entirely justified, as this bakery makes one of the best focaccias we’ve tried. Whether you grab the cornmeal version or the classic, the dough is soft, flavorful, and just lightly crisped on top, perfect on its own or filled with stracchino, prosciutto crudo, or porchetta if you want something heartier. Go early, because this stuff flies off the shelf by mid-morning.

Pizzeria Pellegrini – One of Lucca’s long-running, family-run pizza al taglio spots, beloved for its cecina just as much as—if not more than—its Roman-style pan pizza. A coastal Tuscan staple, cecina is simply chickpea flour, olive oil, and water baked in a scorching copper pan until crisp on the edges but soft in the middle. Grab a warm, pepper-dusted slice on the go for the ultimate mid-afternoon merenda.

WHERE TO DRINK IN LUCCA

Magellano – With vintage interiors and meticulously crafted drinks, this cocktail bar has inventive global flavor pairings and a standout international whiskey collection. There’s a tight offering of four to five small plates to nibble on, while outdoor seating spills onto the street in summer.

Gigliola – The wine-focused part of the Giglio family, Gigliola is a hip, forward-looking enoteca with self-proclaimed “wine that heals the spirit.” The list focuses on Italian and Tuscan bottles, especially natural and biodynamic producers, available by the glass or bottle. Pair your glass with anything off their menu—it’s all spectacular. 

Vinaiolo – A low-key wine spot near Porta dei Borghi that’s ideal for a late afternoon glass or an aperitivo. Locals head here for a short list of wines by the glass from Tuscany and beyond, paired with some simple salty snacks. Inside is dim and vibey, the kind of place you’d like to linger on date night. 

Enoteca Vanni – The city’s historic enoteca, with a serious cellar that stretches back centuries.  The shelves are packed with thousands of bottles, with a strong showing from Tuscany alongside French and international labels. It’s a great place to shop for your sommelier-wannabe friends, though you can also drink by the glass or open a bottle on site. 

Fattoria Sardi – A 10-minute drive outside of the city, this winery between the Serchio and Freddana rivers is worth a visit for spectacular pours from their 18 hectares of organic and biodynamic vineyards. Go for one of the classic Tuscan labels, like a Vermentino or Merlot, or opt for one of their two pet-nats for a funkier route. Finish your evening with dinner at their excellent restaurant. 

WHAT TO DO IN LUCCA

Mercato dell’Antiquariato di Lucca – Held every third weekend of the month, this sprawling open-air market transforms the piazzas surrounding the cathedral into an antique hunter’s paradise. Over 200 Italian vendors fill the streets with estate jewelry, vintage textiles, rare prints, art and furniture, china, and other tchotchkes—making it one of the country’s premier spots to forage for one-of-a-kind finds.

Villa Reale di Marlia – This 17th-century estate near Lucca was the chosen summer residence of Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, Napoleon’s sister. Inspired by Versailles, she transformed the gardens and architecture into a Neoclassical masterpiece, with leafy avenues, camellia walks, and an open-air Teatro di Verzura. Renovations over the centuries have incorporated Baroque fountains, woodland paths, reflective pools, and geometric Art Deco touches. Opening times: Daily from March 1st to October 29th, 10 AM to 6 PM. Limited hours in February.

Orto Botanico – Lucca’s historic botanical garden was established in 1820 thanks to Elisa Bonaparte’s projects and early plant collections from her Villa Reale di Marlia. The garden spans about two hectares along the city walls and is organized into a mix of shaded walkways lined with ginkos, arboretum sections, greenhouses of rhododendrons and exotic plants, and a small museum with dried specimens, reflecting two centuries of plant study and preservation. Opening times: Daily from spring through autumn, usually 10:30 AM to 6:00 PM/7:30 PM (with extended weekend hours in summer). Closed weekdays in winter. Check their site for the most accurate information.

Palazzo Pfanner – A 17th-century palace just inside Lucca’s walls, best known for its formal Baroque garden. The terraced layout, lined with statues, citrus trees, and a central fountain, feels surprisingly theatrical given its quiet setting. Inside, some of the rooms still reflect the Pfanner family’s long history in Lucca, tied to brewing and local industry. The garden is the main draw, with a limonaia, lemon and bamboo groves, and a central octagonal fountain. Opening times: Daily from March 15th to December 31st, typically 10 AM – 6 PM. 

Piazza dell’Anfiteatro – This is Lucca’s most distinctive piazza, built directly on the remains of a Roman amphitheater. The amphitheater’s elliptical shape is still clearly visible in the piazza, although the arena walls are now replaced with medieval houses. Today, it’s ringed with cafés and small shops, lively during the day and calmer in the evening, when you’ll really get a feel for the geometry of the space.

WHERE TO SHOP IN LUCCA 

Fat Mama Vintage – On Chiasso Barletti, this vintage shop specializes in handpicked ’80s and ’90s items, though the real reason to come is the jeans: they stock a huge collection across every imaginable size, fit, and style. Just tell owners Sophia and Filippo what you’re looking for, and they’ll keep pulling pair after pair until you find the one you love. Every item is individually selected for quality, and they even wash and repair pieces in-house so everything is ready to wear the second you walk out the door.

Gioielleria Carli s.a.s Di Giuseppe Carli – One of Lucca’s oldest shops, this jewelry and goldsmith atelier on Via Fillungo dates back to 1665 (!) and has remained in the Carli family for generations. The exterior still shows historic display styles, and the interior retains elements of its 19th‑century fit‑out. Over the centuries, the workshop has served notable clients—like Elisa Bonaparte and Giacomo Puccini—and even appeared in films and novels, including The Portrait of a Lady (1996) and Visconti’s The Innocent (L’Innocente, 1976). Today it sells fine jewellery, watches, and bespoke pieces.

WHERE TO STAY IN & AROUND LUCCA

Tenuta di Tramonte – About a 20-minute drive from Lucca, this Italy Segreta Selection property sits on rolling farmland revived from an ancient convent. The main house feels like the home of a very tasteful friend, backed by sprawling olive groves, vegetable plots, and a vineyard. Its seven rooms—along with 12 additional suites in the adjacent Villa Trenta (available for full buy-out)—are bright, framed by hill views, and highlighted by original frescoes and antique stonework. The on-site garden-to-table restaurant features a daily changing menu, and hosts Lorenzo and Laurence are endlessly generous with local recommendations.

L’Arancera di Villa Grabau – Located next to Villa Grabau’s historic botanical gardens and a five-minute drive from Lucca, this bright orange villa has B&B rooms and large apartments that mesh functional design with rustic touches like exposed beams and hand-painted tiles. You can also rent the entire structure for larger groups. The best part is the garden, planted with citrus and olive trees, and the stunning pool where you can spend afternoons lounging and gazing out over the countryside.