“Ce fesa ncuei?” In Ladin, the ancient Rhaeto-Romance language of the Dolomites, the question simply means: “What are you doing today?” On an ordinary morning in an ordinary city, the answers are predictable—commuting, chores, grabbing a coffee. But pronounced here, in its native valley, the phrase instantly evokes a world of high-altitude pastures, razor-sharp peaks, and the enduring customs of mountain life.

The allure of the Dolomites has long been sustained by this distinct Ladin culture—which still thrives here—and driving into Val Gardena, the road signs immediately signal the region’s triple identity, listing the town in Ladin, German, and Italian: Urtijëi, St. Ulrich, Ortisei. While globally renowned for its alpine vistas and centuries-old wood-carving tradition, this town of 4,600’s truest luxury is its access to the high country. From the pedestrianized town center, three independent lift systems lead to three completely different landscapes: the dramatic cliffs of Seceda, the tranquil forests of Resciesa, and the endless rolling meadows of Alpe di Siusi.

Here, the answer to the question is simple: “Incö vai sö pur munt” (“Today I’m going for a walk in the mountains”). 

WHERE TO HIKE IN ORTISEI

Seceda: The Dramatic Mountain Cliffs

With its iconic, asymmetric ridge plunging precipitously into the void, Monte Seceda is the valley’s undisputed protagonist.

To reach the summit from Ortisei, visitors board a two-stage lift system: a swift gondola to Furnes, followed by a sweeping cable car. The system gains roughly 1,200 meters of elevation in minutes, depositing passengers at 2,500 meters above sea level. Here, the air is thin, sharp, and instantly clarifying.

A brief, uphill walk from the station leads to a panoramic summit marked by a massive wooden cross and a topographical bronze dial detailing the endless sea of peaks. From this vantage point, the famous postcard view unfolds: a dramatic, wave-like crest of rock cutting through the sky.

From the summit, the itinerary depends entirely on one’s mountaineering ambition:

The High-Altitude Loop: For seasoned hikers, a spectacular 1.5-hour trail descends past Rifugio Troier and the pastures of Alpe di Cisles to reach Rifugio Firenze. Here, travelers can pause for South Tyrolean classics or stay overnight to watch the sunset over the jagged Odle peaks. The loop concludes by heading toward Col Raiser before catching the cable car back down.

La Longia: For a gentler, immersive descent, hikers can follow the path of La Longia—the region’s longest ski run in winter, which transforms into a 10.5-kilometer summer trail. The three-hour walk winds down the mountain all the way back to the center of Ortisei, tracing vibrant green meadows and rustic wooden huts.

Resciesa: The Forested Ridge

The second landscape is accessed via the Resciesa funicular; this sleek, red, subterranean-to-surface railway climbs 900 vertical meters in just five minutes.

Upon exiting, you immediately get a hit of the resinous scent of pines. A gentle, pine-needle path leads within minutes to Baita Cason, a stone hut ideal for a brief espresso or a local snack.

Beyond the hut, the trail rises toward Resciesa di Fuori, culminating at a striking, hand-carved wooden crucifix. Positioned at the most panoramic junction of the ridge, it offers a crystalline, 360-degree view featuring Seceda, Alpe di Siusi, the twin bastions of Sassopiatto and Sassolungo, and the distant, glaciated peaks of Austria.

The descent winds down to Rifugio Resciesa. For those with time to spare, an early dinner at the refuge offers front-row seats to the enrosadira—the phenomenon where the limestone peaks turn brilliant shades of gold, pink, and violet as the sun dips below the horizon. Visitors can then make the two-hour twilight walk down the forest trail to Ortisei or sleep at the refuge to witness the pastel palette of dawn.

Alpe di Siusi: The Endless Meadow

A footbridge over Ortisei’s main road leads directly to the Alpe di Siusi cable car, which crests the ridge to reveal Europe’s largest high-altitude plateau—a breathtaking expanse of 52 square kilometers of rolling pastures and wildflower meadows framed by dramatic massifs.

While the topography here appears deceptively gentle, it accommodates both casual strollers and serious trekkers. One of the classic, moderate loops begins at the upper station, Mont Seuc, passing Malga Schgaguler Schwaige and Sporthotel Sonne, before descending toward the idyllic Baita Sanon. After a rest against the backdrop of the Sassolungo, the return route follows the quiet forest road just north of the baita, reconnecting with the trail back to the cable car station.

THE BEST RIFUGI IN ORTISEI

In Val Gardena, the food is unsurprisingly alpine. Bun prò—the Ladin wish for a good meal—is delivered over hearty, calorie-dense dishes designed to fuel long days on the vertical trails. The Ladins maintain an intimate connection to the land; if you are offered speck or rye bread at a mountain hut, it is invariably homemade or sourced from a neighbor down the valley.

Baita Curona (Seceda) — Roughly 20 minutes off the main, crowded thoroughfares, this family-run outpost serves impeccable traditional platters. The definitive order here is the house board: a curation of artisanal cheeses, speck, house-cured sausages, and kaminwurzen (smoked salami) produced at the family’s farm in the valley.

Rifugio Resciesa (Resciesa) — Straddling the line between rustic tradition and sleek modernism, this rifugio offers commanding views of Sassopiatto and Sassolungo. It is the premier high-altitude location for an evening aperitivo—pair a classic Spritz with a platter of local alpine cheeses as the peaks begin to turn pink.

Malga Schgaguler Schwaige (Alpe di Siusi) — A working farm inn with clean, minimalist wooden architecture and unpretentious charm, Malga Schgaguler excels at canederli (traditional bread dumplings made with speck, eggs, and milk). Order the trio—spinach, beetroot, and cheese—served either dry with melted butter or swimming in a rich, clear broth.

Ristorante Snetonstube (Ortisei) — Positioned on the village slope connecting the Resciesa and Seceda lifts, this lively tavern is staffed by an energetic local crew. The menu leans heavily into robust, comforting mountain fare, showcasing slow-cooked polenta, tender venison fillet, and an exceptional roasted pork knuckle. For dessert, look for the playfully named Corsa con Cinzia (“Race with Cinzia”).

WHEN TO VISIT ORTISEI

The prime window for both alpine hiking and cultural immersion spans from mid-June through October, and timing your visit to coincide with the town’s cultural calendar transforms a standard alpine holiday into an immersive look at local heritage.

Village Festival of Ortisei (July)

Should your visit fall on the weekend following July 4th, you will witness the patron saint festival of Saint Ulrich, locally known as Segra d’Urtijëi or Kirchweihfest St. Ulrich. The town squares erupt in a celebration of Ladin identity, with locals donning intricate, heavily embroidered traditional costumes, while street vendors serve grilled meats, local beers, and hot plates of Kaiserschmarrn—a shredded, caramelized pancake dusted with powdered sugar and served with tart mountain berry jam.

UNIKA Art Fair (September)

In mid-September, the town shifts its focus to wood craftsmanship during the UNIKA Fair. What began in the 18th century as a winter necessity—farmers carving toys and religious figurines to supplement their meager seasonal incomes—has evolved into a globally recognized fine art form. UNIKA showcases the valley’s premier sculptors and artisans, drawing international collectors to view avant-garde and traditional works chiseled from local Swiss pine.

Segra Sacun (October)

On the second Sunday of October, the valley gathers in the historic hamlet of San Giacomo for the Sacun Festival, one of the oldest Ladin celebrations. Here, you’ll see a charming courtship ritual: young, eligible men purchase elaborately carved wooden pears from local market stalls, decorate them with colored ribbons, and present them to the women they admire. If the affection is mutual, the woman responds the following spring at Easter by presenting the suitor with beautifully hand-decorated eggs—but only if he arrives in person to claim them.

Christmas in the Valley (December)

Come December, it’s ski season, and Ortisei becomes a winter wonderland with snow-covered roofs and a Christmas market—full of soft white lights, wooden stalls, and the aromas of mulled wine and cinnamon.