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The Hip Local’s Guide to Venice

“These, however, are the 30 places you can always count on to get your bearings in the City of Bridges.”

With plenty of natural wine bars, chic boutiques, and design-forward galleries, Venice is one of the hippest cities in Italy–if you know where to go, that is. Here, the touristy and the local live elbow-to-elbow in the calli and campi, and it’s easy to get a bit turned around without an on-the-ground plan. These, however, are the 30 places you can always count on to get your bearings in the City of Bridges. 

WHERE TO EAT IN VENICE

Alla Bomba – In Sestiere Cannaregio, Alla Bomba has just one communal table–with 28 seats–for convivial meals of artisanal wines and contemporary cuisine that highlights the ingredients of the lagoon and valley. Much of the produce comes from co-owner Tomaso Medici’s very own farm, part of the project “Osti in Orto” on the island of Sant Erasmo, historically known as the “vegetable garden of Venice”. As part of this initiative, Medici, in collaboration with 10 other local restaurateurs, rehabilitated an old farm and started producing veggies and eggs to supply the team’s restaurants. 

Koenji – At this “bacaro and osteria” in the San Polo neighborhood, you’ll find a blend of Japanese home cooking and Venetian tradition. After successfully opening two Venetian bacari in Tokyo, manager Takahiro and chef Norihiko turned to Italy to open this intimate establishment. Menu highlights include baccalà mantecato flavored with yuzu, dried squid atop white polenta, and beef tartare jeweled with a soy sauce marinated egg yolk. Wash it all down with a sake pairing. 

Antiche Carampane – Tucked away between calle and campi, this homey spot is one of Venice’s historic, family-run restaurants–a true locals’ classic. This is where you should eat if you’re looking for plates of Venetian tradition that are hard to find elsewhere, among them spaghetti “in cassopipa” (with squid, mollusks, and shellfish) and del ragù di “secoe” (made with the pieces of meat between the vertebrae in a cow). 

Al Covo – Head to Al Covo, in the Castello neighborhood, for authentic Venetian flavors. Helmed by the husband-and-wife duo Cesare Benelli and Diane Rankin (a dessert master) this local favorite exclusively uses locally sourced, seasonal ingredients for well-executed takes on regional classics (they’ve also joined the aforementioned Osti in Orto!). Must orders include mantecato (with salted cod), granseola (spider crab), frittura, and, when in season, moeche e bisato (soft shell crab and eel).

Pietra Rossa – This enoteca-cum-cucina is a top choice for its daily-changing menu of creative, with-the-seasons cooking, set menu options, and whimsical presentation; a top-notch selection of natural wines and great music choices round out the picture. Be sure to book ahead; the outdoor patio is supremely charming in the warmer months. (The team behind Pietra Rossa formerly managed bistro CoVino, whose management has been taken over by the wonderful Al Covo team.)

Corte Sconta – This upscale, seafood-focused spot is a go-to for its contemporary versions of Venetian classics. Sit in the courtyard, under the vine-covered pergola, and order the risotto di gò–made with gudgeon, a fatty fish typical of the lagoon–a dish that harks back to the region’s cucina povera and is not often found on menus. (Pro Tip: Take a peek at the counter in the entryway; it was designed by the legendary Carlo Scarpa!) 

Cà D’oro alla Vedova – Tucked in an alley, this homestyle Venetian institution has great choices for both seafood and meat lovers; the former should order the bigoli in salsa, while the latter should opt for the superlative polpette. The cozy, wood-paneled bacaro is perfect any time of day, whether for an ombra and a few bites at the counter or for a full sit-down meal. 

Venissa Osteria – On the little island of Mazzorbo, this restaurant is set amongst reclaimed vineyards, the wines from which can accompany your contemporary Venetian meal. (We love that, after lunch, you can walk over the little footbridge connecting Mazzorbo and Burano and spend the afternoon exploring the candy-colored houses of the latter.) Those looking for a high-end option should check out the sister restaurant, Venissa Ristorante, for seven- and ten-course tasting menus. 

Trattoria Altanella – Four generations of the Stradella family have run this simple trattoria on the island of Giudecca–known for their seafood pastas, and fried and grilled fish since 1889. You have to take a ferry to get here, but it’s well worth it for the lack of crowds and views of Venice: ask for a table on the canalside terrace, and order fried calamari and the tagliolini with shrimp, tomato, and zucchini. 

Estro – This elevated wine cave and kitchen offers three different tasting menus–available for lunch and dinner–as well as an à la carte menu with thoughtfully-presented, seasonal Venetian plates. You’re going to want to try a bit of everything: your best bet is to order the antipasti Veneziani

Frittura at Venissa

THE BEST BAKERIES IN VENICE

Tonolo – No-frills Tonolo has been a Venetian institution since 1886–with great prices to boot. Some of the best you’ll find in the city, the cream-filled pastries should be eaten while standing at the long bar with an espresso. The treats sell out quickly, so go early for the pick of the litter. 

Dal Nono Colussi – This family-run bakery has been open since 1956, churning out fantastic fugassa veneziana, a yeasted sweet bread eaten around Easter, and other classic pastries. You can find three generations of the family working in the bakery–even Franco, who, in his late late eighties, still has his hands in the dough. 

Gelateria Nico – It’s not a bakery but it is a place to get your sweet fix. The thing to get here is the gianduiotto, a brick of chocolate hazelnut ice cream submerged in whipped cream. Take the treat to go, and walk along the Zattere.

WHERE TO DRINK IN VENICE

Vino Vero – The coolest natural wine bar in town (and one of the first), Vino Vero has offerings by the glass or by the bottle–as well as a full case of fantastic crostini–along a canal in Cannaregio. You can expect a bit of a wait for one of their few tables, but we don’t mind sitting out in the street with our legs dangling above the water.

Ozio – All-natural offerings from small producers and tables outside with a view; wine bar Ozio is one of those places where you really feel the rhythms of Venice’s daily life. 

Stappo – At this chic wine bar, by-the-glass offerings are accompanied by a creative menu that puts ingredient quality first. Keep an eye out for pop-up events. 

Adriatico Mar – Here, everything revolves around the Adriatic Sea, from olives and yogurt from the Aegean islands to Malvasia wines from Istria. It’s cute and cozy inside, but you can also sit with your goodies on the tiny wooden jetty out front. 

Ai Do Leoni – This vibey spot proves that quality can still be found around the tourist hotspot of Piazza San Marco. Come for a glass of natural wine at aperitivo or after dinner (they’re open till 1:30 AM every night) for their signature Americano with sour foam.

La Fenice Opera House

WHAT TO DO IN VENICE

Museo di Palazzo Grimani – If not for the rotating exhibitions, come for the beautiful courtyards, opulent interiors, and stunning library of this Renaissance palace, built between 1545 and 1565 for one of the most important families of the Venetian patriciate. The crown jewel, however, is the literally breathtaking Tribuna room, with more than 130 ancient sculptures, including one that hangs suspended in mid air. 

Negozio Olivetti – A must-visit for any architecture or design enthusiast, this showroom displays vintage typewriters of the eponymous brand in a building designed by the one and only Carlo Scarpa in 1958. 

Ikona Gallery – The first Venetian gallery to dedicate itself to photography, Ikona was founded in 1979 by the renowned Croatian painter Živa Kraus. In minimalist interiors, find cutting-edge exhibitions of both Italian and international artists, as well as a photography school.  

La Scala Contarini Del Bovolo – At 30 meters, this tower, commissioned by Doge Contarini to embellish his namesake palace, is the tallest in Venice. Reach the top for panoramic views of the city–best at sunset, when the rooftops and facades are aglow with yellow and pink.

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection – It’s Italy’s most prominent museum–for good reason! Peggy Guggenheim’s former home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, houses an epic collection of 20th-century art right on the Canal Grande. (Yes, it’s a classic and certainly not a secret, but the permanent collection, Peggy’s personal one, is really a roll call of the greats.)

Squero di San Trovaso – Wade into the age-old tradition of Venetian shipbuilding at Dorsoduro’s Squero di San Trovaso; built in the 16th century, it’s one of the few squeri still in operation in Venice where you can watch craftsmen building and fixing gondolas. 

WHERE TO SHOP IN VENICE

Damocle Edizioni – An independent publishing house and bookshop, Damcole Edizioni has an amazing collection of rare texts and works printed with traditional wood-carved stamps. Proprietor Pierpaolo Pregnolato also collaborates with artists, among them Ai Wei Wei, for limited editions–and they’re outstanding. Pregnolato truly carries on the long legacy of printing in Venice–did you know the city invented publishing as we know it?–as well as that of his great-grandparents, who opened the first printing press in Chioggia. 

Piedaterre Venezia – Piedaterre is a one stop shop for all things furlane; find classic styles, as well as the adorable Mary Janes, in a splendid array of colors. Venetian women are known to sport these velvet slippers at their weddings! 

Studio Saor – Grab some prints, posters, and postcards of Venice’s “illustrated architecture” at this independent creative studio. The postcard set featuring the canal’s various water vehicles is particularly cute. (Fyi, this shop’s name comes from the Venetian culinary technique of preserving fish and vegetables under a layer of vinegar and onions.)

Micheluzzi Glass – Elena and Margherita Micheluzzi descend from a family of Murano glass masters, and their handmade works take tradition to another level with chic, modern vases, glasses, and more. 

Cameraphoto Epoche – This store almost feels like a museum, with 300,000 black-and-white vintage photos, taken by the proprietor’s father, of Venice over the last century. Find photos of daily life, sports games, political events, and Carnevale; take one home and frame it, or visit just to flip through the transcendent archives.

WHERE TO SLEEP IN VENICE

Casa Flora This three-bedroom Venetian apartment, a stone’s throw from Piazza San Marco, seamlessly merges modern Italian design with centuries-old architectural details. Managed by the esteemed Romanelli family (who also own Hotel Flora and Novecento nearby), the space exudes Venetian authenticity, offering a fully-equipped kitchen, hammam facilities, and an opportunity to support local traditions and craftsmen through its curated selection of artisanal pieces.

Hotel FloraThis old-school gem, under the attentive stewardship of Gioele and his wife Heiby, is Venetian charm at its finest. Though just steps from Piazza San Marco, the interior garden is a tranquil oasis and the perfect place to take breakfast. Choose a superior, corner, or garden room; you’ll get slices of a Venetian view from all.

Violino D’OroThis upscale boutique hotel is a work of artisanship. Almost everything in the 35 guestrooms and suites is made at the hands of Italian craftsmen, from terrazzo floors and Micheluzzi glass vases to Carlo Scarpa chandeliers and polished wood furnishings; elegant as can be. Even if you aren’t spending a night here, be sure to stop by for a visit at their Piccolo Bar, with a sleek black marble bar, innovative cocktails, and lovely new outdoor seating. 

Palazzo Grimani Museum

Alla Bomba

Koenji

Antiche Carampane

Al Covo

Pietra Rossa

Corte Sconta

Cà D'oro alla Vedova

Venissa Osteria

Venissa Ristorante

Trattoria Altanella

Estro

Tonolo

Dal Nono Colussi

Vino Vero

Ozio

Stappo

Adriatico Mar

Museo di Palazzo Grimani

Negozio Olivetti

Ikona Gallery

La Scala Contarini Del Bovolo

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Squero di San Trovaso

Damocle Edizioni

Piedaterre Venezia

Studio Saor

Micheluzzi Glass

Cameraphoto Epoche

Hotel Flora

Casa Flora

Violino D’Oro

Ai Do Leoni

Piccolo Bar