Modena is quite small, especially compared to its bigger sister Bologna; but spend a few hours exploring the cobblestoned streets and you’ll find this pastel-yellow, terracotta-hued town packs more of a punch than you thought. Massimo Bottura’s three-Michelin Osteria Francescana certainly put Modena on the map culinarily speaking, but the city has long been a hotspot for savvy travelers in search of everything from OG balsamic vinegar to Ferrari and Maserati to a quieter slice of the hilly region. A member of our Italy Segreta Travel Team relocated from London to Modena, and after four years, still finds new things to explore in every corner of both the historic center and the countryside. Whether you’re a first-time visitor or a devoted Modena lover, these are the spots to make your mouths water, your hearts beat a little faster, and your jeans a little tighter.

WHERE TO EAT IN MODENA CENTRO

While the historic centro of Modena, gated by its ZTL, may be considered the most beautiful area of the city, our top picks here are limited to just a few.

Aurora – This entirely family-run restaurant is our best-kept secret, and we’re ready to share it with you. The fun part of coming here is that you never know what to expect from the waiters (father, mother, and son; the other son is in the kitchen). Order whatever Enzo has chosen from the fishmonger that morning. Our ideal menu goes antipasti crudi, spaghetti con vongole or spaghetti all’scoglio (a bit spicier), and their fish of the day prepared simply with tomatoes and olive oil.

Piccola Osteria Zemian – Since 2020, owner Davide has been welcoming guests as if the restaurant were his home. Though his menu features Modenese specialities (don’t miss the gnocco fritto, tigelle, and tortellini), Davide challenges customers to venture beyond and try dishes like the calzagatti (made from polenta and beans) and the rosette (a traditional baked pasta dish). Book in advance–this bustling osteria is always packed with locals.

Ristorante Da Danilo – This classic spot has been serving traditional delicacies to locals for the past 40 years. It’s particularly enjoyable in the winter, when you can cozy up with a culatello con gnocco followed by tortelloni alla zucca, passatelli in brodo, or gramigna. In the summer, secondi like carpaccio, roast beef, and bresaola are delightful. 

Franceschetta58 – We couldn’t write about where to eat in Modena without mentioning Modenese-local celebrity chef Massimo Bottura, though we prefer dining at his brasserie-style Franceschetta58 rather than his three-starred spot (and not just for the price tag). Though this restaurant is much more accessible, the menu (both tasting and a la carte) still swells with his signature innovative takes on Italian, and Emilian, cuisine;  the oft-changing dishes include the likes of eel risotto, red onion tortellini, roast chicken with radicchio, and his iconic “Emilia Burger”. It’s details like the giant “I ❤ ️ Modena” sign, funky background music, local wines, mismatched tableware, and entirely unfussy, yet elegant, environment that we so love. Open Mon-Sat for lunch and dinner, reservations recommended. 

Ristorante Patrizia – For a fancier option, head to Da Patrizia, opened in October 2023 by 26-year-old chef Tommaso Zobboli–formerly in the kitchen at Osteria Francescana–who named the spot after his mother. The location right under the Torre della Ghirlandina and modern interiors are reason enough to visit, but what we really are here for is the food courtesy of Chef Zobboli and his entire under-26 team. The two-tiered pre-fixe menus change every four months, and they read like an actual book with illustrations and everything, designed to take you on quite the immersive journey. The most recent concept was a “Mediterranean Odyssey,” with dishes inspired by locations, ingredients, and myths from all around the eponymous sea. 

Mon Cafè – Mon Cafè is perfect for sitting outside (with a covered terrace for colder days) and people watching any time of the day. Come for a cornetto and cappuccino or a delightful afternoon apericena with fun cocktails–like the “Labyrinth” with mezcal, lime, aperol, ginger beer, and angostura, or the “Space Oddity” with white rum, honey, lime, mint, ginger–but we especially love it for lunch. Their seasonal menu offers a lighter alternative to a trattoria with a refreshing number of salads, seafood dishes, and simple pastas.

Chiosco Insolito – If you’re in search of some typical Modenese delights–and an uber-filling lunch–head to this unassuming, kiosk-style bar. Superlative versions of gnocco fritto, tigelle, piadine, and tigelloni farciti are what you’ll want to feast on here. Don’t forget to order lardo e grana (lard and parmesan) along with your doughy goodies.

Trattoria Aldina – A bit tricky to find, this super old-school restaurant is a great place to feast on dishes that are as traditional as their somewhat-dated decor. Grab a quick plate of tortellini in brodo or tortelli di zucca, or post up for a full-course Modenese lunch with frittelle, gnocchi con ragù, and guanciale con polenta. 

WHERE TO EAT OUTSIDE OF MODENA

As with a number of Italy’s cities, many of the locals opt to live (and eat) outside of the bustling centro. These spots are where we really go. 

Trattoria Bianca – Within a restored farmhouse, this casual, family-run, and dachshund-loving trattoria never fails to impress. Here, their recipe book is almost 100 years old, but we can’t seem to grow tired of their classics: ravioli in sfoglia di grano con erba cipollina (wholewheat ravioli with chives), tortelloni with ricotta and spinach, filetto di manzo, and simple sides of buttered spinach or roasted potatoes. Warning: this trattoria is unconventionally closed on the weekend. 

Antica Moka – Inside this cozy, classically decorated trattoria, Modena-local Anna Maria Barbieri whips up the most surprising dishes. She’s mastered traditional Emilian flavors thanks to her family’s culinary roots (her father was one of the first to join the Parmigiano Reggiano consorzio), but she turns each dish into a creative masterpiece you’re more likely to see in Michelin-starred restaurants. Her plates were beloved by late Modenese opera singer Luciano Pavarotti, and you can’t miss the tortellini di “Nonna Sarita” in brodo di cappone.

EXÉ (Fiorano) – If you’re in the mood for pizza, head to the Executive Hotel & Spa’s restaurant EXÉ in Fiorano, an industrial ceramic hub just 20 minutes from Modena. Their gourmet pizzas are exceptional. Be sure to try the cantacabrio (tomatoes and tomato sauce, stracciatella di bufala, calabrian anchovies, and capers from Pantelleria) or the tonno rosso (lime focaccia with Mediterranean bluefin tuna, stracciatella di bufala, confit cherry tomatoes, and arugula pesto). Save room for their gelato with hot chocolate sauce.

Il Cantacucco (Zocca) – When the mercury drops, head to Cantacucco in the woods of Vasco Rossi’s hometown Zocca, about 50 minutes away from Modena. With stunning sunset views over the surrounding hills and a traditional menu, the highlights here are mushrooms and truffles. If it’s on the menu, order the borlenghi, a regional specialty similar to a crepe stuffed with minced pork and herbs. 

Trattoria Muzzarelli Olga (Montagnana) – With pale yellow walls and big windows that look out onto green, leafy trees, this fourth-generation trattoria is a must for the fried funghi, tortelloni, and tortellini. Back in the 1900s, it was a favorite of Enzo Ferrari and his team, who ate lunch nearly every Saturday here. Our perfect meal is la cacciatore washed down with a big glass of bubbly Lambrusco. 

Agriturismo Acetaia Sereni (Marano sul Panaro / Castelvetro di Modena) – Just a 25-minute ride away, Agriturismo Acetaia Sereni is a family-run restaurant on a gorgeous estate that has been making true aceto balsamico di Modena for over 100 years. You can come just to tour the grounds, but you’d be remiss not to stay for dinner (or a perfect Sunday lunch). Try the gnocco fritto with prosciutto di parma or seasonally inspired beef tartare, with ever-changing accompaniments. Another standout is the sizzling meat platter served with perfectly baked potatoes, and you’re certainly going to want to buy a bottle (or three!) of their vinegars to take home with you.

THE BEST BAKERIES IN MODENA

Pasticceria Dondi – For the true Modenese colazione, head to Dondi for a cappuccino and cannoli alla crema. Bustling with people, especially in the rush hour between 7:30 and 9 AM, you will be greeted with the deep, earthy fragrance of freshly ground espresso beans and the warmth of the cream and jam filled Bomboloni.

Cibo – Across from Modena’s main duomo, the pasticcini lining the window of this bar are almost as stunning as the aforementioned landmark. Open until 11 PM most nights (and until 1 AM on Friday and Saturday!), it’s a great spot anytime of day for a little pick-me-up, whether sweet or savory. 

Pasticceria Gollini (Vignola) – It’s well-worth the 25 to 30-minute drive out of town for an afternoon merenda at this charming pasticceria, established in 1886. But what we mostly come for is the Torta Barozzi: a heavenly flourless chocolate cake (naturally gluten free!), made deeper and richer by coffee. It’s named for the renowned late Renaissance architect Jacopo Barozzi, who was born in Vignola. While you’re in the area, head to Palazzo Barozzi (just a few steps from the bar) to see Barozzi’s architectural masterpiece: La Scala Chiocciola. A beautiful work of Renaissance engineering, this spiral staircase was designed without a central supporting column, creating an illusion of lightness as it winds upward. 

THE BEST GELATO IN MODENA

SLURP – The blue and white striped awnings of this gelateria are as colorful as their gelato is flavorful and creamy. Gelateria Slurp is also the most common answer to the “What can I bring to dinner tonight?” text when meeting friends and family, since you can buy vaschette of your favorite flavors to-go, along with a handful of gelato cakes and semifreddi.

Gelateria La Sweet (Vignola) – Artisanal gelato finds near perfect form at Gelateria La Sweet. It’s another reason we recommend Vignola (the town of cherries) for flavors like uva fragola, mandorle pralinate, mascarpone con torta barozzi (which we mentioned earlier), and raspberry. They have a number of vegan options plus cakes, semifreddi, profiteroles, and even homemade calippos.

WHERE TO DRINK & HAVE APERITIVO IN MODENA

Come aperitivo time, Via Gallucci–starting at I Vilai and leading into the center–and Piazza della Pomposa both turn into the ritrovo quotidiano (daily hangout) for Modense residents, who gather to unwind and sip their sguazzone (Lambrusco diluted with sparkling water). 

MOLTO Enotecatipica – At this hip, uber-popular joint, the owners live by the motto “per offrirvi molto, non possiamo avere tutto” (“in order to offer you much, we can’t have everything”). Order a glass from their refined, researched selection and enjoy it out on the street.

Ex Spaccio delle Carceri – This extra funky bar, recognizable by its dark green entrance door and pink neon hue, is perfect for a wine date night or to sip inventive cocktails with a group of friends. Check their Instagram for live DJ nights. 

Caffetteria Drogheria Giusti – This is the perfect spot to spend a late autumn afternoon with a refreshing Aperol spritz and aperitivo platter (little panini, tramezzini, pizzette, gnocco fritto, and cured meats) to watch the sun go down over the adjacent Accademia Militare di Modena.

Archer – An all-in-one enoteca, shop, bistro, and tavern, come here for everything from lunch to aperitivo to a shared plates dinner with friends, or savor the experience alone with a book (Feltrinelli is less than a minute’s walk away).  

Eglise (Castelvetro di Modena) – Set right in the incredibly charming piazza of Castelvetro’s main church, Eglise is perfect in summer for a cooler spot just a little outside of town. Order a glass of bollicina with some tigelle, and watch local life go by.

WHERE TO SHOP IN MODENA 

Via Taglio – Scroll down this street for a treasure trove of independent boutiques that carry both womens and menswear. We love Trampos for exquisite jewelry pieces, plus everything inside Carpi designer’s Antonello Serio eponymous store. For bits and pieces of home decor, pop into Neofilia on the perpendicular Via Cesare Battisti.

Mercato Albinelli – Start your morning at this historical market bustling with fishmongers, fruttivendoli, and butchers all servicing the locals and restaurants of the city (Massimo Bottura is said to shop here for Osteria Francescana). Opened in 1931, the market looks relatively the same, and it’s a great way to partake in local life even if you don’t need groceries. After, pop into Bar Schiavoni for one of their warm panini with inventive fillings.  

Mokaccino Kafe – At this specialty shop and coffee bar, you can come through for an afternoon caffè or stay to taste many of Modena’s local delicacies. They have an exclusive selection of local balsamic vinegars along with Modenese wines, digestives, bitters, and other liqueurs.

La Bottega Dei Golosi – Just a 10 minute walk from the center, owners Alberto and Claudio of this enoteca-delicatessen-grocery shop stand out for the quality of their carefully selected products. With a playful retro vibe, this shop is a paradise for those with a sweet tooth; you’ll find an endless array of chocolates, candies, and panettone alongside savory delights like pasta, sauces, and sott’olio products.

Salumeria Giusti – Claiming to be the oldest salumeria in Europe, Salumeria Giusti has been open since 1605, though, technically founder Signore Givanni Francesco Ziusti–Giusti in dialect–had been selling pork on the location since 1598. It’s still a staple for Modena’s best affettati (sliced meat), fresh tortellini, balsamic vinegar, Parmigiano Reggiano, and other rosticceria-style goodies, though you can’t miss the mostarda, a condiment made from candied fruit preserved in a mustard-flavored syrup. 

Etoile – For all things that glitter and sparkle, head to this stunning jewelry shop on Corso Canalchiaro. With a grand selection of in house and other brands, it’s perfect for a new, high-quality staple piece that won’t break the bank. Our favorite item is their tortellini charm, available in silver or gold, to take a piece of Modena home with you.

WHAT TO DO IN MODENA

Torre Ghirlandina – For a great leg workout, climb Modena’s 90-meter central belltower, the Torre Ghirlandina. So named for the many spires that decorate the building like a “garland”, the foundation to the tower was built way back in the early 12th century. Opening hours may vary, and it’s best to pick a sunny clear day when you can have a great view of the city and hills. Trigger warning for claustrophobics: the staircase is narrow and steep. 

Galleria Estense – This gallery is one of the most important in the city, showcasing a rich collection of Renaissance and Baroque art. Established in 1854 by Francis V of Austria-Este, the gallery mostly features paintings, along with various marble and terracotta sculptures, a collection of antiquities, and musical instruments. Open Tuesday to Sunday. 

Galleria Mazzoli – Since its founding by Emilio Mazzoli in the 1970s, this gallery–with a sister in Berlin–has played a pivotal role in promoting contemporary art. Inside, you’ll see works showcased in various media, including painting, sculpture, video, and installation art. They’re known for avant-garde exhibitions featuring both renowned international and Italian artists. 

Take a Day Trip – Head to the city’s outskirts and visit a Parmigiano Reggiano production, visit the surrounding medieval borgos such as Castelvetro di Modena, or head to Nonantola and walk through its 1,300-year-old abbey, a prime example of European architecture from the Middle Ages. 

Fondazione Modena Arti Visive (FMAV) – The two historic, renovated buildings of Palazzo Santa Margherita and Palazzina dei Giardini host rotating exhibitions of artists, often contemporary and often focused on paintings or photography. Check their websites to see what shows are currently on display, though the buildings themselves are worth a quick stop in regardless. 

WHERE TO SLEEP IN MODENA

B&B Quartopiano – If you’d rather stay in Modena’s historic center, this cozy bed and breakfast is a perfect choice. On a quieter street only 300m from Mercato Albinelli, you can pick between two attic rooms or rent the entire fourth floor apartment. The views of the Torre Ghirlandina and over Modena’s rooftops are unmatched. 

Casa Maria Luigia – Massimo Bottura was also the first to bring a 5-star stay option to Modena. About 15 minutes from the center, his restored, 18th-century luxury villa is on a stunning property with a pool and lots of greenery, and the interiors are decked out in contemporary art, books, vinyls, classic Italian cars, and motorcycles. It’s the ultimate stay for foodies: not only is the kitchen stocked with Emilian ingredients and the breakfast out of this world, but you can enjoy the three-starred “Francescana at Casa Maria Luigia” dinner experience that highlights historic favorites from the restaurant. Rooms start at about €800 per night.

Agriturismo Acetaia Sereni – One of the most beautiful stays in the area is at the aforementioned Acetaia Sereni, in one of their three suites or two double rooms. The family-run balsamic vinegar estate promises beautiful views, a stunning pool, and a great on-site dining option, but the highlight of a stay here is the breakfast buffet featuring local ricotta and yogurt, the freshest Parmigiano Reggiano and prosciutto di parma, eggs from a farm nearby, homemade cakes and biscotti, and more.