Florence is an easy favorite: it’s breathtakingly beautiful, was a hotspot for massively influential art and culture, and gave rise to a regional cuisine beloved around the world. These reasons, among others, can account for the 15 million tourists that visit the city yearly, outnumbering the local population by a hefty 20 to 1. As such, it’s not surprising that much of Florence caters to visitors, and, to those of us here year-round, it can often feel like the city is resting on its laurels. That said, there are a few places that breathe fresh life into the Renaissance city, even if they’ve been around for 100 years. Here, 30 places–a mix of superlative tradition and up-and-coming innovation–to avoid tourist traps and live this city like a local. 

WHERE TO EAT IN FLORENCE

Cibrèo Caffe – A Sant’Ambrogio institution since 1979, the caffe is our favorite from the Cibrèo restaurant, thanks to repurposed cinema seats, a relaxed atmosphere (opt for Cibrèo Trattoria or Cibrèo Ristorante if you want something slightly fancier), and a menu that makes good use of the abundant Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio next door. Start off with a round of antipasti for the table (with a double order of the chicken liver), follow with tagliolini cacio e burro, and top it all off with the decadent torta al cioccolato. Pro Tip: Stop into their nearby grocery store, C.Bio, for an incredible assortment of products and to-go dishes made with the same excellence of those in the restaurant.

C-ucina – Two architects-turned-chefs and a garage transformed into a beautifully designed restaurant that could easily fit into the Copenhagen scene. Find a different menu of creative, shareable plates every day–perfect for those looking for something “fuori dalla norma” (i.e. a break from the hyper-traditional local cuisine).

Alla Vecchia Bettola – Come here for a real Tuscan feast–rustic, home-cooked, and always delicious. Thanks to communal tables, an international clientele, and jugs of Chianti to freely imbibe for a flat fee of a few euros, the place gets rowdy and chaotic in the best way. Must Order: Artichokes, penne alla vecchia bettola, and torta alle mele 

Trattoria Sostanza – Cucina povera done right. Here, less is more, and an open-fire kitchen adds a little extra something to the tight menu. Hours are strict hours; 2 PM is already too late for lunch. Must Order: Tortellini in brodo, pollo al burro (butter chicken) and il tortino di carciofi. 

Enoteca Bruni – Pioneers of the natural wine scene in Florence, this upscale, fine-dining experience is tasting menu only–and, unlike others of its genre, it’s elegant, well thought out, and far from stuffy. Must Order: The prosciutto di cinta senese as a tasting menu add on.

5 e Cinque – This upscale Ligurian spot in the local-favorite Piazza della Passera is completely vegetarian, a rarity in a meat-heavy city like Florence. We love the soft green accents in the chic space. Must order: Cecina and focaccia di Recco. 

Trattoria Mossacce – This tight spot features a daily changing menu, some of the fastest service in the city, and all the Florentine classics. We particularly love it on chilly days. Must Order: Salsiccie e fagioli, arista e patate 

Vini e Vecchi Sapori – Small and tucked in an alley behind Piazza della Signoria, this cozy osteria serves well-executed plates of traditional Tuscan food, accompanied by a fabulously unexpected playlist of pop hits. (If you look carefully, you might just find traces of the proprietor’s love for Madonna.) Must Order: Pappardelle al sugo d’anatra (duck ragout)

Tripperia Pollini – There are lampredotto carts, or Trippaio, all over the city, but Tripperia Pollini Sant’Ambrogio is one of the best, serving the city’s most iconic offal dish to postmen, butchers, construction workers, officemen, and daring tourists. Must Order: Lampredotto with (an incredibly spicy) salsa verde

THE BEST BAKERIES IN FLORENCE

S. Forno – Come here for modern pastries and pizza al taglio, a tight menu of sandwiches and salads, and filter coffee in a cozy, shabby chic environment. There’s also a well-curated selection of food products for sale to bring home. 

Pasticceria Gualtieri – Just past Porta Romana, this locals’ breakfast spot offers a great selection of vegan/gluten-free options and incredible bongo (profiteroles). The Iris cake–a delicate, glazed almond confection–is their speciality and not to be missed. 

THE BEST GELATO IN FLORENCE

Gelatiera – On Via dei Ginori, La Gelatiera is a relative newcomer to the long-established scene of Florentine gelato (the city invented the stuff, after all!). Seasonal fruit, creamy nut, and a few innovative, wildcard flavors are always available. To switch it up, we go for the likes of peanut, matcha, or tigernut. Don’t forget to look up before you leave: bet you’ve never been to a gelateria with frescoed ceilings before. 

WHERE TO DRINK IN FLORENCE

Enoteca Spontanea – A natural wine bar cum restaurant that’s understated, soulful, and reliably satisfying. Proprietor Nicola is the heart and soul of Enoteca Spontanea: he counts many of the producers he pours and customers he serves as friends, and knows the A-Z of all his by-the-glass offerings, which change constantly throughout the day. If you want to eat (and you should!), be sure to make a reservation. Otherwise, grab a glass or a bottle and hang outside. 

Bar d’Angolo – A corky, no frills neighborhood bar with a view of Porta Romana which serves cheap drinks and an aperitivo plate that can include a great homemade tuna patè and hummus. (The building’s outdoor fresco is particularly cool; look up above the entrance when walking in!)

Fermino – Though just steps from Santa Croce church, this local favorite is, thankfully, removed from the abroad-student-heavy Santa Croce circuit–in both vibe and geography. Come for the strong cocktails and fermini–aka crostini, our favorite of which is the one with split pea patè and cheese–and stay for the friendly, social atmosphere. 

Vineria Sonora – At the distribution company turned wine bar Vineria Sonora, the focus is on hyper-locality. This institution is committed to amplifying the voices of small regional winemakers, and the shelves are stacked with genre-bending bottles, books, and records. Keep an eye out for tastings with producers and DJ events; here, they spin on real vinyl. 

Il Santino – A wine bar so cozy that people overflow into the street. It’s the perfect place for aperitivo with a glass of something natural or local and a plate of salami or crostini. When the craving for something more substantial hits, their restaurant, Il Santo Bevitore, is just next door.  

WHAT TO DO IN FLORENCE

Giardino di Bardini – Originally the Bardini family’s private garden, the eclectic  landscaping features English and Chinese garden elements, a Baroque stairway adorned with flowers and marble statues, and a striking view of the entire city and the Arno river. Leave a bit of time for aperitivo at the bar inside the garden. (For those who are also planning a visit to the Boboli gardens, one ticket can be used for both.)

Museo Marino Marini – The museum houses 183 sculptures, paintings, drawings, and engravings, arranged thematically, by renowned Tuscan artist and later professor, Marino Marini (1901-1980), including his famous Equestrian group pieces. His work is inspired by Etruscan art and Arturo Martini’s classicism and modernism. Natural light also plays a key part in the layout of the museum, as Marini considered it essential for interpreting his art.

Bargello Museum – The first Italian National Museum dedicated to the arts of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, this museum in the Palazzo del Podestà houses some unmissable pieces, like Donatello’s David and St George and Michelangelo’s Bacchus and Pitti Tondo. 

Giunti Odeon – Open since 1922, this Florentine institution, in its iconic Art Nouveau style, has been everything from a theater to a cinema to, as of this year, a bookstore that still shows movies in the evenings for guests that sit on the wraparound mezzanine.

Pucci Museum – Fashion and design lovers can’t miss a visit to Palazzo Pucci, the home of the iconic Florentine brand, Emilio Pucci, and current residence of the Pucci family. The space is devoted to fostering brand culture and history through the celebration of the Pucci’s legacy. Reservations required.

Galleria Romanelli – In the unassuming San Frediano neighborhood, this sculpture gallery and studio has been open since 1860 and has remained within the same family since. Tour it like a museum, take a plaster workshop, or even host an event within the beautiful space. 

WHERE TO SHOP IN FLORENCE

Ippogrifo – This long-standing workshop, open since 1977, carries on a 500-year tradition of acqua forte-etched and hand-painted prints. Founder Gianni Raffaelli incises images by hand on thin copper plates and prints limited edition copies by a hand press, before his wife, Francesca Bellesi, paints each one by hand.

I Visionari – Opened in an old stationary store by ​​sibling duo Elena and Emiliano, this independent eyewear shop, which also carries a fantastic selection of vintage options, is curated like an art exhibition. Here, each beautifully-designed pair of glasses and sunglasses is made by international creatives and craftsmen. Even if you don’t need prescription glasses, you’re going to want to stop into their storefront in San Frediano.  

Bronzetto – As you might have guessed from the name, this art studio has been crafting exquisite bespoke bronze pieces since 1963, and their handcrafted lamps are some of the most stunning we’ve ever seen. 

Todo Modo – Taking the concept of having a thirst for knowledge literally, Todo Modo is an international bookstore with its own bistro and wine bar. Have a glass of wine at the bar or beside Scandinavian-inspired wooden staircase/desks, surrounded by bookshelves for every genre. They also have their own publishing house, radio show, and reading room used for meetings, screenings, and concerts.  

WHERE TO SLEEP IN FLORENCE

Stella D’Italia – From renowned local hotelier Matteo Perduca, this stylish boutique hotel is housed in a 16th-century palace. Eclectic artistic touches, views onto Via Tornabuoni, and wraparound frescoes in the breakfast room make it one of our favorite stays in Florence. 

Casa Howard – This carefully-curated guesthouse, which is more of a boutique hotel, in the city center is the product of three generations of the Forneris family and what is clearly an inherited eye for detail and beauty. Chic yet easy-going, each room is almost totally different, adorned with custom-made fabrics, antique furniture, and decor sourced by the owners on their travels across the world. The best part is breakfast in bed, served every morning on a tray with Ginori crockery and silver cutlery. 

Palazzo Guadagni – Right on the bustling Piazza Santo Spirito in Florence’s Oltrarno neighborhood, Palazzo Guadagni is a historic gem with roots dating back to 1505, currently managed by the Budini Gattai family. Each room differs from each other with antiques, vintage furniture, and, most notably, the view: one looks over the Duomo, one over the Pitti palace, and one over the Torrigiani tower. Plus, their rooftop Loggia bar is one of the best aperitivo spots in the city. 

Numeroventi Design Residency – This chic guesthouse is one of the coolest spots in Florence with its Scandinavian-style decor and high, frescoed ceilings. The contemporary space doubles as an artist residency, and exhibition spaces and an open kitchen (where they often host chef residencies) round out the picture downstairs. There are just a few rooms, so book well in advance.