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THE 5: How to Eat, Speak and Drive in Naples



How to Speak in Neapolitan Proverbs

A Neapolitan proverb is worth a thousand words. Here, five of our favorite dialectical aphorisms to live by:


A cervella è ‘na sfoglia ‘e cipolle. The brain is the peel of the onion.

(A way of saying that the human mind is delicate. It’s easy to go mad.)


Chi troppo vole niente stregne. He who wants all will have nothing.


Ommo senza vizie, menesta senza sale. A man without vices is like soup without salt.


‘A lira fa ‘o ricco, a crianza fa o signore. Money makes one rich, but a good education makes one a gentleman.


Meglio murí sazzio ca campà diúno. Better to die full than to live fasting.


Come se dice? Explore more Italian proverbs here


How to Eat Pizza in Naples

Naples’s culinary claim to fame, pizza can be eaten in a variety of ways. Just never with pineapple.



Pizza Napoletana: The fluffy-crusted classic is protected by law: the dough, which can be no greater than 35cm in diameter, must be topped exclusively with tomato and mozzarella from Campania



Pizza Fritta: Two disks of dough, sandwiched with fillings, fried until the cheese is gooey and the edges crispy and puffy. 



Pizza Portafoglio: A whole pie folded into a crepe-like “wallet”. An excellent street food. 



Calzone: Again, a whole pie, but this time folded into a half-circle. Called “pant leg” pizza because it’s meant to be eaten while walking.



Pizza Romana: Or if Neapolitan pizza isn’t your thing, head north for Rome’s lighter, crunchier pinse 


How to Drive in Naples

Known throughout Italy as one of the hardest places to drive and park, downtown Naples is a disorganized chaos of bumper-to-bumper traffic, narrow alleyways, mopeds and “one-way streets”. Navigating Naples takes self-confidence, assertiveness and alertness, but if you can conquer the streets of Naples, you can conquer the world. 



DO park outside of the city or invest in the best insurance you can find.



DON’T look uncertain at busy intersections and roundabouts or you will NEVER pass through. 



DO look unrattled, even if you were just centimeters away from being squashed by another car or a teenager on a moped. 



DO drive as you please! Others will worry about avoiding you. 



DON’T stop at a red light. It’s a suggestion, not a rule. (Some Neapolitans assert that traffic lights are pretty Christmas decorations.) 



DO be attentive on “one-way streets”. There’s always someone who thought it was two-way. 



DON’T take colorful blasphemy too seriously! You were probably just driving too slowly. 



Inspired to take a road trip now? Read more about driving through Italy.


How to Take the Metro in Naples

Why raise your heart rate in a car when you can take a real inspiring ride on the Naples Metro? The 12 stunning Art Stations along Lines 1 and 6, part of the municipality’s efforts to upgrade the old metro, feature more than 250 murals, paintings and sculptures from contemporary artists and architects. 


TOLEDO: The psychedelic, water-themed ceiling mosaic Crater de luz by Robert Wilson marks the Toledo station on Naples’s big shopping street Via Toledo.


VANVITELLI: In the Vomero district, the Vanvitello station boasts a neon spiral from the late Mario Merz. 


UNIVERSITÁ: Close to the university of Naples, the playful station by industrial-designer Karim Rashid holds a synapse-inspired sculpture and abstract portraits of Dante and Beatrice.


GARIBALDI: One of the busiest stations in Naples features a futuristic escalator, an interactive mirror, and many, many multicolored snails.


MUSEO: Designed by Gae Aulenti, the Pompeian red-colored station, close to the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, is dedicated to history with sculptures and photos of Herculaneum, Naples, and the suburbs


How to Leave Naples

Though there’s tons to eat, see and say in Naples, the rest of Campania has just as much to offer as the city. When you’re ready to see beyond the metropolis, check out these off-the-beaten path towns: 

Massa Lubrense: The chic town offers a quieter, less-touristy side of the Amalfi Coast, while the surrounding green landscape is perfect for hiking. 

Sant’Agata de’ Goti: Just 35km from Naples, the historic center practically hangs off the edge of cliffs of tuff, a rock formed from volcanic ash.   

Sapri and Scario: On the border of Campania and Basilicata, (most of) the Cilento region has been declared a national park. The towns of the region feature adorable terraced houses and beautiful beaches between rocky cliffs. 

Paestum: An ancient Greek city off the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea, an archeological site that has nothing to envy to Pompeii

San Marco dei Cavoti: The tiny, 3,000-person town in Benevento houses some of Italy’s best artisans of torrone, a nougat-like confection stuffed with toasted nuts. 

Castellabate: An ancient medieval town in the province of Salerno, Castellabate is topped by a castle from 1123 and is mentioned in Homer’s epic The Odyssey.