Castiglioncello, a quiet promontory on Tuscany’s Etruscan Coast, has long resisted the commercialism of Forte dei Marmi to the north and the exclusivity of the Argentario peninsula to the south. Instead, this seaside enclave has preserved a low-key vibe that calls back to its artistic history. In the 1860s, the art critic Diego Martelli invited the Macchiaioli—Italy’s anti-academic, pre-Impressionist painters, including Giovanni Fattori and Silvestro Lega—to work on his estate here. Painting en plein air, they used small wooden panels to capture the area’s distinct coastal light, stone pines, and rugged cliffs, establishing a new school of Italian realism.
A century later, during the postwar economic boom of the 1950s and ’60s, the town became a discreet summer spot for Italy’s cinematic vanguard. Marcello Mastroianni and Vittorio Gassman were fixtures on its rocky beaches, while Alberto Sordi acquired a 19th-century villa overlooking the Baia del Quercetano. The town’s allure was permanently canonized in Dino Risi’s 1962 film Il Sorpasso, which used Castiglioncello’s winding coastal roads as the backdrop for its critique of Italian hedonism. Today, the town remains protective of this heritage, offering a slice of estate italiana that makes for an easy day trip or weekend escape from Florence. Here, the waterfront isn’t wide sandy expanses, but a network of rocky coves with traditional, low-slung bagni. These recommendations are curated by the Italy Segreta Team alongside Lorenzo Budini Gattai, owner of Palazzo Guadagni and member of the Italy Segreta Selection.
Reaching Castiglioncello is straightforward via the regional train line from Florence or Pisa, which drops passengers at a small station just a short walk from the water. Alternatively, drivers can take the scenic SS1 Aurelia highway along the Etruscan Coast.
WHAT TO DO IN CASTIGLIONCELLO
Swim (duh) — You can’t go to a beachtown without going to the beach, and Bagni Nettuno, in the Baia del Quercetano, is our favorite beach club for whiling away the day. With sunbed options on both the sand and on a platform over the rocks, it’s got a thoroughly fun and easygoing atmosphere and is more affordable than many others on the bay. Easy lunches are on offer—think salads and seafood pastas—plus cocktails, panini, and gelati confezionati from the upstairs bar. For a completely different vantage point on the other side of Castiglioncello, La Baracchina has its own private sun platform equipped with umbrellas and sunbeds built right over the rocks—a great alternative for anyone looking to bypass the main bay crowds.
Take a walk in the pine groves — The Pineta Marradi—a forest of maritime pines running parallel to the coast—has drawn artists for over a century, most notably the 19th-century Macchiaioli painters, and there’s no more pleasant walk in town. Within the pine grove, look for Il Garbato, an open-air venue where you can sit among the trees with a cold drink in hand.
Visit the DAI DAI workshop — On the aptly named Via del Sorriso, this is the birthplace of Castiglioncello’s most famous export: Dai Dai—bite-sized, chocolate-dipped gelato rectangles in flavors like pine nut, mint, and espresso. Founded in 1984 by Toni Bartoletti, the company revived a 1920s local legend of an ice cream vendor who would shout “Dai! Dai!” (“Come on, come on!”) to his donkey as he carted frozen treats through the pine groves. Today, Bartoletti’s children run the workshop, where they still hand-craft their signature treats, now available in various sizes.
Catch an (open-air) movie or show — In the evening, the cultural life of Castiglioncello is based at the Castello Pasquini. The neo-Gothic castle grounds host modern art exhibitions, dance festivals, and theatrical performances. For a quintessentially local evening, residents secure tickets at the nearby cinema all’aperto (outdoor cinema) to watch independent films beneath a canopy of pines and stars.
WHERE TO EAT IN CASTIGLIONCELLO
La Lucciola — Part of Bagni Ausonia, suspended over the water, La Lucciola is the perfect summer dinner spot (and date spot!). For decades, it was run by Stefano Bonistalli—a charismatic, larger-than-life local figure who famously carried a Bar Civili banner to the 1982 World Cup in Spain. Following his passing, his wife and two sons have taken the helm. Though the menu changes frequently, look out for the pink shrimp carpaccio or the purple shrimp tartare with burrata. The primi selection is strong across the board, particularly the linguine tossed with mussels, cherry tomatoes, and bottarga.
Il Tirreno — Run by the four Garzelli cousins since 1997, the restaurant at Bagno Tirreno is one of the most classic places for seafood dining on the promontory. The open-air terrace provides an elegant backdrop for a menu focused on locally caught raw seafood (crudité), handmade pastas, and a fabulous fritto misto.
Caffè Ginori — At the center of Piazza della Vittoria, simply called the piazzetta by residents, is Caffè Ginori, and it’s the first order of the day for everyone in town. Sit at an outdoor table here for a morning cappuccino, plus any sort of sweet or salty treat (you can never go wrong with a tramezzino), while older residents read copies of Il Tirreno and beachgoers fuel up before a day in the sun.
WHERE TO DRINK IN CASTIGLIONCELLO
La Grottina — Beneath the terrace of La Lucciola at Bagni Ausonia, this seaside enclave was originally hand-built from local sea rocks in 1926 by the eccentric craftsman Duilio Franceschi. In the 1930s, it operated as an illuminated “American Bar” for the coast’s fashionable youth, and today, it has been revived into an atmospheric sunset cocktail and aperitivo spot right in the breaking surf. On summer weekends, the rocky venue draws a lively local crowd for DJ sets spinning funk, disco, and nu-disco.
La Belle Époque — At the water’s edge along Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, this casual seaside outpost is a beloved local fixture for winding down the day. Large cushions laid out directly on the rocks allow you to watch the sunset over the Tyrrhenian in comfort. The menu keeps things easygoing with classic cocktails and the regional ponce alla livornese (a warm cocktail of espresso, sugar, and spiced rum), alongside a menu of panini named after famous artists.
Dalla Wilma — This bistrot has established itself as the premier local haunt for low-intervention wines. A rotating blackboard menu features natural labels sourced from independent, small-scale Italian vignerons, and the kitchen pairs these bottles with organic, seasonal small plates.
FITO — In the 19th-century limonaia (lemon house) of Castello Pasquini, this botanical cocktail bar is one of the most contemporary spots in town. The mixology program is a zero-waste exploration of local flora, relying heavily on house-distilled essential oils, cold-pressed extractions, and wild herbs gathered directly from the surrounding castle grounds. Their signature twists on the classic spritz, for example, utilize wild sage, house-made rosemary hydrosols, and sustainable citrus cordials instead of industrial spirits.
Salmastro — Operating out of the Bagni Salvadori, this beachside outpost balances an informal, sand-between-your-toes vibe with a highly curated contemporary mixology list. The inventive creations are made with Mediterranean botanicals and coastal citrus, like a gin and tonic featuring local Tuscan gin infused with wild sea rosemary or a cocktail balanced with a dash of caper brine and house-made citrus cordial.
WHERE TO SHOP IN CASTIGLIONCELLO
Il Magazzino — Near the edge of the pine woods, this curated boutique has been around since 1973. Look for the proprietary, eco-conscious brand Dé, which is inspired by the colors of the Livornese coast, featuring loose linens and unstructured silhouettes.
Serendipity Castigioncello — In the newly restored Piazza della Vittoria, this boutique is the town’s go-to stop for high-quality Italian swimwear, artisanal jewelry, and tailored linen dresses perfect for transitioning from a morning on the rocks to an evening aperitivo.
WHERE TO STAY IN CASTIGLIONCELLO
There aren’t any boutique or luxury stays in Castiglioncello (which certainly saves it from a surplus of tourism); rather, these are utilitarian options that prioritize sea access.
Hotel Tirreno — In a restored 19th-century Liberty-style villa, Hotel Tirreno captures the unpretentious, nostalgic charm of traditional Tuscan coastal hospitality. On a pine-shaded part of Via Marconi within the Macchiaioli pedestrian parkland, the hotel is a mere 60 meters from the Lungomare Alberto Sordi promenade and a four-minute walk from the train station. Inside, high-ceilinged, understated rooms open onto private balconies with views of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Villa La Snobbina — This private cliffside villa available for rent offers a secluded alternative to the town’s traditional hotels. The residence features four ocean-view bedrooms, each paired with its own dedicated bathroom, comfortably hosting small groups looking for absolute privacy. Outside, a panoramic terrace and a private saltwater pool look out over the coast, while a set of stone steps cut into the cliff provides direct, private access straight into the sea.
Villa Parisi — On an isolated promontory overlooking the gulf, this historic patrician villa offers some of the most striking views on the coast. From the outside, the estate looks magnificent, though the interiors and guest rooms are a bit dated and can feel mismatched with the premium rates. The real pull here is the hotel’s private discesa al mare—a direct, shaded path cutting down through the cliffs to a private sun platform right on the water. Ultimately, the unparalleled sea access means that booking even the most basic economy room here can be worth the trade-off.
