Venice gets a whopping 30 million tourists a year, a number that only gets compounded during hotly-anticipated events like the Biennale and the Venice International Film Festival, when an extra 70,000+ visitors flock to the already overcrowded city. Venice is a place where roaming and entering at random doesn’t quite work; to beat the chaos and the crowds, you really have to know where to go. So whether you’re in La Serenissima for a festival or not, your best bet is to enjoy the city like a local, finding treasures in its narrow alleyways rather than major thoroughfares. Here, we’ve compiled the ultimate insider’s guide to the city, with recommendations on what to see beyond the classics, what to do, where to eat, where to drink, where to shop, and where to stay:

WHAT TO SEE (BEYOND THE CLASSICS)

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

1. The Peggy Guggenheim Collection – Italy’s most prominent museum of 20th-century art is housed in Peggy Guggenheim’s former home, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, with a stunning view over the Canal Grande. The permanent collection, Peggy’s personal one, features works from more or less every Modern great you can think of. (Yes, it’s a classic, but it’s just too good to not include!)
2. Punta della Dogana – Originally built by Giuseppe Benoni as a customs house, the triangular building jutting out into the lagoon was restored by Japanese architect Tadao Ando in 2009 and features contemporary exhibits showcasing works from the François Pinault Foundation, as well as stunning views of the San Marco basin.
3. Casa di Tre Oci (House of Three Eyes) – On the island of Giudecca, this distinctive neo-gothic building has three large windows on its orange, ornate facade. Inside, explore first-class photography exhibitions along with historical furniture and objects.
4. Fortuny Museum – This Gothic palazzo once belonged to Mariano Fortuny, the artist and textile designer renowned for Fortuny Fabrics’ luxurious creations. The museum pays homage to his opulent and eclectic taste, with rooms adorned in lavish textiles and frescoes, showcasing his art, antiques, and decor collection.
5. Museo Ebraico di Venezia – The Museo Ebraico di Venezia, also known as the Jewish Museum of Venice, is a cultural institution that showcases the rich history and heritage of the Jewish community in Venice. Located in the Cannaregio district, the museum houses a diverse collection of artifacts, documents, and artworks that chronicle Venetian Jewish life since the first ghetto was built in 1516.
6. Ikona Gallery – Founded in 1979 by the legendary Ziva Kraus, Ikona is the first gallery in Venice to focus solely on photography. They also organize avant-garde expositions and host a photography school.
7. Le Stanze del Vetro – This permanent exhibition space on Giorgio Maggiore Island (just south of Venice) is an impressive archive of Venetian glass, with the mandate to preserve the history of the craft.
8. Fondazione Berengo – This gallery blows fresh air into the Venetian glass industry by inviting globally-acclaimed artists from all backgrounds–many of whom have never worked with glass before–to experiment with the material.
9. Fondazione Querini Stampalia – Housing over 400,000 books, manuscripts, and photographs from the modern era, alongside an impressive private art collection, this cultural institution is a bibliophile’s dream.
10. Scuola Grande di San Rocco – This magnificent Renaissance building in Campo San Rocco is renowned for its exquisite interiors, which are adorned with paintings by Tintoretto. The works are considered among his best.

DESIGN & ARCHITECTURE

1. Negozio Olivetti – This showroom of the iconic typewriter brand, part of the FAI portfolio, is located under the arcades of Piazza San Marco and was designed by Venetian architect Carlo Scarpa. (The staircase has met fame in the international architectural community!)
2. Giardini della Biennale – The primary venue for the Venice Biennale, hosting pavilions from various countries, these gardens are worth a visit any time of year for Carlo Scarpa’s design. The esteemed Italian architect played a pivotal role in landscaping the gardens in the 1950s, transforming the space into an elegant setting that complements the artistic displays, featuring meandering paths, reflecting pools, and carefully curated greenery 
3. Labirinto Borges – Located on the island of San Giorgio, these labyrinthine gardens were inspired by the writings of the renowned Argentine author Jorge Luis Borges. Designed by the landscape architect Randoll Coate in collaboration with Borges himself, the gardens feature winding pathways adorned with quotes and passages from Borges’ works, making it a must-visit destination for literature enthusiasts and art admirers alike.
4. Teatrino di Palazzo Grassi – A small, charming theater located within the Palazzo Grassi, this intimate venue, designed by Tadao Ando, hosts a diverse array of cultural events, including lectures, film screenings, concerts, and performances. The neutral colors, the pure triangular geometries, and the sloping walls are in refreshing contrast to the austere and typically Venetian appearance of the external facade.

CINEMATIC SPOTS

1. Palazzo del Cinema (and the Venice International Film Festival) – The storied headquarters of the Venice International Film Festival, the Palazzo del Cinema was built in the Modernist, Rationalist style of the 1930s and was inaugurated in 1937 for the festival’s fifth edition. The 1,032-seat theater is particularly grand, so if you’re in Venice between August 30th and September 9th 2023, catch a screening from the 80th edition of the Film Festival, organized by La Biennale di Venezia and directed by Alberto Barbera. 
2. Canal Grande – Running through the heart of Venice, the Canal Grande is the city’s largest and most iconic waterway–unsurprisingly, it’s starred in many a film. For example, the 2003 movie The Italian Job, in which actor Jason Stathamd takes part in a thrilling boat chase down the reverse-S shaped curve of the canal, or the 2019 blockbuster Spider-Man: Far From Home, in which a monster emerges from its waters. 
3. Piazza San Marco – Most frequented by tourists and pigeons, this iconic square is where you can visit ​​St Mark’s Basilica and the corresponding bell tower, the Doge’s Palace, the Museo Correr, and the Campanile. The scene from the 1979 Bond film Moonraker in which a gondola most improbably turns into a land-capable hovercraft was also filmed here. Bond actor Roger Moore once recalled, “There were thousands of tourists who didn’t know there was a film going on. I didn’t have that much control over it, so they eventually gave me a little horn to warn people.” Matt Damon as The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999) has also been spotted here, as has Daniel Craig in Casino Royale (2006). 
4. Hotel Excelsior – Open since 1908, this five-star hotel on the removed Lido di Venezia–a long strip of land separating the Venetian Lagoon from the Adriatic Sea–has been the location of the Venice Film Festival for nearly a century. The palace-inspired hotel and ornate decor have helped the spot obtain cult status, attracting an all-star list of guests and attention from Hollywood: an iconic dinner scene in the crime drama Once Upon a Time in America (1984) with Robert De Niro was filmed here.
5. Palazzo Pisani – On the Canal Grande, this 16th-century patrician palazzo is the biggest in the city: Roger Moore’s Bond (in Moonraker, 1979) parks a gondola here, and Daniel Craig’s Bond (in Casino Royale, 2006) loses his love Vesper (Eva Green) when–spoiler alert!–the entire palazzo collapses into the canal with her trapped inside.
6. Stazione Santa Lucia – The largest train station in Venice, Santa Lucia has a beautiful white facade and lets out directly onto the Canale Grande. In the 1970 Italian film by Enrico Maria Salerno, Anonimo Veneziano (The Anonymous Venetian), a man reunites with his estranged wife at Santa Lucia station after years of separation, although she doesn’t yet know why he has called her back to their city. 
7. Chiesa di San Barnaba – In the district of Dorsoduro, this church in Campo San Barnaba has been standing for over 1,000 years, though its current Greek facade was only constructed in the 18th century. Filled with art and beautiful frescoes, the church is most known for making an appearance in the 1989 action film Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade as the library in which Jones (Harrison Ford) searches for the tomb of the Holy Grail’s keeper. 
8. Bridge of Sighs – The infamous 17th-century limestone bridge, linking Doge’s Palace to the prisons, is incredibly picturesque, but earned its macabre name from the fact that it marked the last moment of freedom for convicts entering their cells. In the last scene of From Russia with Love (1963), Sean Connery’s Bond and Russian agent Tatiana Romanova snuggle in a gondola underneath the bridge. (According to local tradition, if a couple kisses below the bridge, they’ll find eternal love: knowing Bond, this doesn’t quite hold true…)
9. Ca’ Rezzonico – This baroque palace on the Canal Grande, designed by architect Baldassarre Longhema in 1649, holds paintings by Tiepolo and Canaletto, and serves as the museum of 18th-century Venetian art. In Moonraker (1979), it becomes the home of super villain DRAX’s secret laboratory. 
10. Rialto Market Santa Sofia – Located right next to the Canal Grande, this famed market is half produce, half pescheria in a large, neo-gothic hall. In the 2010 movie The Tourist, Johnny Depp is chased past the piles of fresh vegetables and fruit through the market… while still in his pajamas.
11. Grand Hotel des Bains – Also located in the Lido di Venezia, this 123-year-old luxury hotel is the epitome of old-world glamor. And it’s got the film credits to prove it: the hotel was the site of inspiration for Thomas Mann’s 1912 novel Death in Venice, and Luchino Visconti’s 1971 adaptation of the same name was filmed here. The hotel has and continues to be a hubbub for high-brow guests (Liz Taylor was a fan!) and historical characters, from King Faruk of Egypt to Hitler, who stayed here in 1934 after his first meeting with Mussolini.

WHERE TO DRINK

In this city of traditional grandeur, it only makes sense to drink the indisputable Italian classics. You can never, and we mean never, go wrong with a Campari Spritz–two parts Campari, three parts prosecco, and one part soda. You’ll see Venetians drinking them Monday through Sunday, from dawn until way past dusk. For those who like their drinks strong, the Negroni–made with equal parts Campari, sweet vermouth, and gin–is a no-brainer. Or, if you like the sound of a Negroni but need something a bit lighter, go for the Americano–one part Campari, one part Vermouth Rosso, and a splash of soda.

1. The Experimental Cocktail Club – This trendy, speakeasy-style haunt in Zattere is the third outpost of the group who’s already gained acclaim in Paris and London.
2. Il Mercante – At the foot of the Ponte dei Frari, this two-story, retro, totally romantic bar built into a 1850s cafe serves some of Venice’s most inventive (and sensorily fantastic) cocktails. 
3. TiME Social Bar – In the heart of Cannaregio, this bar makes their own syrups and  bitters for the seasonal, reinvented cocktail menu, also featuring cicchetti and an impressive natural wine selection.
4. Hotel Splendid – A short walk from Piazza San Marco and the Rialto bridge, this luxury hotel has a lounge bar whose grand arched windows look out over the canal, as well as a rooftop bar, named after the classic Venetian altana, with panoramic views and gifted mixologists.   
5. Grand Hotel Dei Dogi – In a lovely off-the-beaten-path corner of Venice just north of the Ghetto, the hotel’s La Voga bar takes inspiration from traditional Venetian rowing and the city’s long seafaring history: sit indoors for a cozy, contemporary, sailing-club vibe or outdoors in the summer along the local canal. 
6. The St. Regis – Another spot for those who like to sip with a view, The St. Regis’s outdoor bar has one of the most prime locations on the Grand Canal. The cocktails are pricey, but the view of the Punta della Dogana is priceless. 
7. Harry’s Bar – Come here for the mandatory bellini, Negroni, or martini, and expect to pay for the privilege of sipping your drink in this storied location, beloved by the Golden Era elite. 
8. Vino Vero – The forerunner of the natural wine movement in Venice, this buzzy wine bar offers just about everything on their very full shelves to sip by the glass, so you can taste it all. 
9. Ozio – Sip natural ombre from small producers while sitting in the shade–apt!–while people watching in scenic surrounds.
10. Stappo – With interesting by-the-glass offerings, matched with a creative menu that highlights raw materials, Stappo is a breath of fresh air in this beautiful part of Santa Croce.
11. Adriatico Mar – A tiny wooden jetty out front sets the vibe for this cute, cozy wine bar that pours organic wine, artisanal sodas, and serves tagliere with meat and cheese from local producers.
12. Piccolo Bar – Located within Violino d’Oro, Piccoli has a sleek black marble bar, innovative cocktails, and lovely new outdoor seating. 

WHERE TO EAT 

BREAKFAST

1. Pasticceria Tonolo – Open since 1886, this no-frills spot, with prices to match, is a real institution in Venice–and for good reason. The cream-filled pastries are some of the best: pick one from the long glass case, and eat it while standing at the bar with an espresso or cappuccino. Go early if you want the widest selection. 
2. Pasticceria Rizzardini – Tiny, old-school Rizzardini is exactly what you want a Venetian pastry shop to be: fast-paced espressos at the wood-paneled bar and a constant buzz of locals who come for the best veneziane alla crema, fried brioche filled with cream, in town. There’s nowhere to sit and loiter, but that’s just part of the charm. 
3. Dal Nono Colussi – Open since 1956, family-run Dal Nono Colussi makes superlative fugassa veneziana, a yeasted sweet bread typically eaten for Easter, and classic cream-based pastries–and they’ve got some pretty packaging to boot. Say hi to Franco if you see him; his granddaughter now runs the bakery, but, even in his late eighties, he still works in the shop a few hours a day. 

CICCHETTI / BACARI

1. Cantine del Vino già Schiavi – A compulsory stop in the Dorsoduro area, this old-school haunt is known by locals as “il bottegon.” It’s a favorite amongst students thanks to fresh, creative cicchetti choices at very palatable prices. Must order: Any of the cicchetti, always made fresh, twice a day, but especially the swordfish tartare with cocoa powder. 
2. Al Mercà — Authentic, genuine, and simple. A tiny bacaro on a little square right by the Rialto market, with standing room outside only. Must order: Gorgonzola and walnut crostini, and a classic tuna and artichoke tramezzini. 
3. Cibo Venezia – A more modern feeling deli counter, serving tagliere laden with artisanal salumi, cheese, and preserves. Their cured meats and cheeses can also be vac-packed to take home with you. Must order: Baccalà mantecato, tagliere miste.
4. Bacareto da Lele – An always bustling, affordable, and laid-back watering hole in a quieter area of Venice where local patrons–mainly students and professors of the adjacent architecture university–spill into the streets (there is nowhere to sit) while sipping ombre of local, unlabelled wine and snacking on salami and bread. Must order: Pork and artichoke sandwich with mustard.

RESTAURANTS

1. Corte Sconta – This refined seafood restaurant is renowned for its contemporary takes on Venetian classics. Ask for a table outdoors, under the vine-covered pergola, and don’t miss the risotto di gò–made with gudgeon, a fatty fish typical of the lagoon–a dish that pays homage to the region’s cucina povera and is quite difficult to find on menus. 
2. Tocia – The project of Tocia is hard to pin down conceptually: it’s not a restaurant, and not really a pop-up. The eponymous sauce, served before every meal, best exemplifies their whole philosophy: a constantly evolving, koji-fermented mother sauce made from ingredients brought in by visiting chefs, friends, and producers. Tocia’s goal is to reinvigorate Lagoon cuisine while creating conviviality around their communal wooden table, always laden with hand-thrown ceramic dishware and wooden vases turned right there in the studio back room. They also host regular grassroots art showcases–many in collaboration with the Biennale–and community events. Message them on Instagram before you go to see what’s in store and to reserve your spot; they don’t do dinner every night or even every week, so best to plan ahead. 
3. Antiche Carampane – Hidden between calle and campi, the authentic, simple osteria never ceases to surprise us and the other tourists who did their research. It is unmissable for the homey atmosphere, antipasti della tradizione, fried zucchini, and gnocchetti alla Granseola. 
4. Birraia la Corte – Originally from Bilbao, Spain, chef Silvia Rozas has put in time at top-tier restaurants like Noma and El Celler de Can Roca, but love led her to Venice, where she took over the kitchen of the historical Birraria La Corte in Campo San Polo with Venetian Marco Zambon (the aforementioned love). For their Spanish/Italian dishes, they use entirely local, seasonal products harvested from the lagoon. Order, if available, the zucchini flowers and arugula pesto spaghettoni and if not their pizza San Erasmo is alway a solid option. 
5. Al Covo – In the Castello district, Al Covo should be your first stop to get a true taste of Venetian cuisine. Led by the lovely husband-and-wife team Cesare Benelli and Diane Rankin, this welcoming, local-favorite spot is committed to using locally-sourced, seasonal ingredients for innovative dishes. Must orders include mantecato (with salted cod), granseola (spider crab), frittura, bollito misto (boiled meat), and the seasonal moeche e bisato (soft shell crab and eel).
6. CoVino – There are just two seatings a night at CoVino, so reservations are strongly recommended for this phenomenal spot. There’s not a single miss on the tight menu of fish-forward, seasonal plates, and the list of natural wines is similarly great. We’re kind of obsessed with the mini spatula that comes with your cutlery, perfect for scarpetta-ing every last dollop of sauce. 
7. Ristorante Wistèria – A newcomer to the Venetian fine dining scene, Wistèria is located along Rio de la Frescada, one of Venice’s tranquil side canals; the outdoor tables are, unsurprisingly, lovely and are covered with willowy bunches of wisteria (the flower both gives shade to the space and has given the restaurant its name). After years with the influential Alajmo family, chef Valerio Dallamano flexes with six- or eight-course elevated tasting menus of contemporary dishes that highlight seasonal ingredients and earned the restaurant a Michelin star in 2022. 
8. Osteria Anice Stellato – Exceptional service and chic, well-plated dishes are hallmarks of this establishment, set on a quiet street off Cannaregio’s main drag. Their contemporary cuisine plays with contrasting flavors and textures. If available, order the seppie e piselli (cuttlefish and peas). Reservations are recommended. 
9. Trattoria da Romano – This charming restaurant on the picturesque island of Burano was a favorite of omnivorous Fellini’s. With a history dating back to 1927, this family-run trattoria is renowned for its traditional Venetian cuisine, especially its seafood dishes, served in a warm and welcoming ambiance that captures the essence of the island’s rich fishing heritage.
10. Antica Locanda Montin – This inn-cum-restaurant in Dorsoduro has hosted the likes of Robert De Niro and David Bowie, who clearly have good taste because the menu, seasonal and rotating regularly, is lovely. It is best in summer when you can sit outside under an arched, vine-covered pergola, though the indoor, with walls completely covered in paintings and photos, is quite charming too. Order bigoli con l’anitra, the typical Venetian pasta. 
11. Osteria Al Cicheto – You can come to this fantastic spot, hidden near Lista di Spagna, for aperitivo and cicchetti, but you’d be remiss to skip a meal at their tavern. With just seven tables, Al Cicheto offers two seatings–one at 7 PM and one at 9 PM–with affordable set menus. Artisan producers, natural wines, and other specialties make this bacaro-osteria a unique and essential visit. Order the bigoli co l’anara (pasta with duck sauce).
12. Venissa – This fine dining restaurant on the satellite island of Mazzorbo is not just an eatery, but a project of viticultural rejuvenation. Set amongst reclaimed vineyards, the Ristorante offers seven- or ten-course tasting menus, with an optional wine pairing of bottles from non-conventional, artisanal winemakers. Alternatively, go for the more affordable Osteria, where you can also order a la carte. 
13. Local – This polished spot with rustic-chic decor earned a Michelin star in 2021 for its elevated takes on Venetian classes. Owner Benedetta was inspired by the hospitality of her grandmother, and the open kitchen really does contribute to the family-like atmosphere. Benedetta aims to showcase “the unique setting of Venice and its richness of ingredients and flavors, which here are enhanced by the saline soil–like the violet artichokes from Sant’Erasmo and the Dorona from Mazzorbo.”
14. Osteria Giorgione da MASA – A beautiful collaboration between Masa, a japanese chef who grew up in Kobe, and the Venetian family who runs Hotel Giorgione. The handwritten menu changes daily based on the availability of Rialto market’s produce, centring on the concept of katei ryori (Japanese home-cooking, like what mom would make) all served with a great selection of natural wines.

CULINARY EXPERIENCE

1. Eat through Venice like a local and visit artisan studios – On this private tour with acclaimed food writer and photographer (and Venice local!) Valeria Necchio, you’ll walk the streets of Venice, sampling cicchetti, traditional tapas-like small bites, in bacari and trying quintessentially Venetian dishes at top restaurants. Plus, you’ll visit local ateliers and craftsmen who, to this day, keep alive rare artisan traditions in the city.

WHERE TO SHOP

1. Micheluzzi Glass – Born into a family of Murano glass masters, Elena and Margherita Micheluzzi founded this store to preserve their family heritage. Their handmade collection of vases and glasses combines traditional techniques with a modern, intimate vision, resulting in particularly chic glass pieces. 
2. Cameraphoto Epoche – With 300,000 black-and-white, mostly unpublished images from the past century, this photo store is more like a museum, offering a glimpse into the daily life, figures, sports games, political events, and celebrations of the Venice of the past. You can buy your own vintage photo or simply peruse the stunning collection.
3. Veneziastampa – Founded in 1989 by Venetian friend-duo Luca Valonta and Michele Costantini, this print shop strives to preserve Venetian printing traditions via two Heidelberg printing presses. Purchase a poster or postcard drawn by local artists, or attend a workshop to learn the printing methods yourself. 
4. Micromega – Opened in 2000 by Roberto Carlon, Micromega sells hand-crafted, tailor-made eyewear–available for both prescription wearers and non. The lightweight glasses are known for their fun, funky, and retro designs and are made by hand using special titanium thread and innovative materials like natural horn and carbon fiber. 
5. Piedàterre – Visit this iconic store under the Rialto Bridge for your very own pair of furlane–Venice’s handmade slippers delicately crafted from velvet and available in a luxurious array of colors–and join decades of Venetian women, celebrities, and gondoliers sporting this fashionable footwear. 
6. Gabriele Gmeiner – Tucked into a tourist-packed street of Venice, the unassuming shop of Gabriele Gmeiner makes some of the finest shoes in Venice from sustainable leather. Schedule a fitting for a beautiful pair made to your measurements and desires. 
7. Lido – Named after Venice’s famed coastal beach club, this predominantly women’s independent swimwear label is entirely handcrafted in Venice. Conceived in 2017 by designer Daria Stankiewicz, the slow-fashion brand offers practical, timeless, and minimalist designs crafted from eco-friendly Italian Lycra. 
8. Gianni Basso Stampatore – With no website, email, and a hard-to-find storefront, Gianni’s adorable, old-school print shop is elusive, but highly worth it. Everything in the store–ornately-decorated, crisply-printed cards, invitations, paper, etc–is hand printed in Venetian tradition on a vintage letterpress. The premade pieces are stunning, but the personalized, custom-designed stationery is a real treat. 
9. Rivoaltus – This small boutique on the steps of the Rialto Bridge is another place to purchase bags, Venetian trinkets, and furlane shoes, the soles of which are made out of recycled bicycle tires.
10. Libreria MarcoPolo – This independent bookstore has two locations in Venice: the shop in Santa Margherita, in the Dorsoduro district, offers carefully selected best sellers, independent publications, and childrens books. The store in Cannaregio, near where  traveler Marco Polo grew up, is the largest English/American bookstore in Venice and features a book exchange where you can “sell” a book for credit to “buy” a new one. 
11. Studio Saòr – This independent creative studio is an aesthetic, design-focused spot to grab some prints, posters, and postcards of Venice’s “illustrated architecture.” We particularly love the postcard set featuring the canal’s various vehicles. (The name saòr comes from the Venetian preparation of soaking fish and vegetables under a layer of vinegar and onions.)
12. Linea d’Acqua – This antiquarian bookshop specializes in antique books, first editions, engravings, and maps of Venice. They are the only authorized dealer for the Venetian painter Davide Battistin, and the contents of their archives are unmatched.

WHERE TO STAY

1. Casa Flora – Located near Piazza San Marco, this three-bedroom apartment blends modern Italian design with historic elements like wooden floors and millennium-old doors. Managed personally by the Romanelli family, who also own Hotel Flora and Novecento nearby, the space offers authentic Venetian experiences with amenities like a fully-equipped kitchen, hammams for relaxation, and an opportunity to purchase artisanal furniture and fixtures. Their hospitality supports local traditions and young artisans.
2. Hotel Flora – Hotel Flora, an old-school family-run gem, exudes the city’s authentic charm with a luxurious yet affordable stay. Managed with passion and love by Gioele and his wife Heiby, the hotel retains its classic elegance, featuring wooden beds, antiques, and a tranquil garden. We recommend requesting a superior, corner, or garden room; each offers a different style and a charming Venetian view.
3. Violino d’Oro – An upscale boutique hotel that’s a work of artisanship, where almost everything in the 35 guestrooms and suites is made at the hands of Italian craftsmen—from terrazzo floors and Micheluzzi glass vases to Carlo Scarpa chandeliers and polished wood furnishings. Elegant as can be and in a perfect location right by a canal, with unbeatable views.