Nothing says Ralph Lauren like an all-American hamburger or Miuccia Prada like an intellectually curious “conceptual canape”. Fashion and food have always gone inextricably well together as critical and synergic pillars of an aesthete’s life. And where better to indulge both than Milan? When Fashion Week arrives—this year from September 17th through to the 23rd—looks are turned out far beyond the runways, from the street corners of aperitivo hotspots to the preferred six-tops of the fashion set.

First timers will find a distinct “sense of familiarity” to Italy’s sartorial home, according to Lorenzo Salamone, Fashion Editor at nss Magazine. “Even when you arrive from abroad, you’ll discover that the city feels somewhat intimate… making Milan way more manageable than Paris, London, or New York.”

With Fashion Week extended a day by the Camera della Moda, there is all the more time to explore Milan’s distinct culinary offering, from famed favorites like ossobucco to more in-the-know regional specialities like mondeghili, Milanese polpette with Spanish and Arab influence. From coffee breaks to late-night haunts, Italy’s top editors, stylists, and models share how best to eat and drink your way through all corners of the fashion capital come September. 

BREAKFAST

The long (long!) days of Fashion Week require proper sustenance: Select Milano model and Milan resident Raphy Magne starts her day with a double macchiato and brioche at the jewelry-box pasticceria and decorated Milanese institution, Gattullo. Look out for their signature Mirtillino pastry (a golden knotted cornetto coated in rum and sugar with a blueberry filling), celebrated by fashion brand MSGM last year with a MSGM x GATTULLO blueberry-coloured sweatshirt. Be advised the panini are also good here: Maria Stanchieri, Managing Editor of  nss magazine, heads to Gattullo later in the day for a “Bocconiano” sandwich loaded with bresaola, goats cheese, tomato, parmesan, artichokes, and olive pate–named after nearby Bocconi students who frequent the cafe.

But for breakfast, Maria opts for something similarly sweet. She loves Marlà Pasticceria in Porta Romana for “the maritozzo with cream and pistachio or the cornetto with ricotta and chocolate drops. And in summer, Sicilian granita with cream, of course.” Meanwhile, near Navigli, Elle Italia’s Senior Beauty Editor, Francesca Varasi, pops to 142 Restaurant for her morning cappuccino and a homemade “Veneziana” (a small dough cake topped with sugar or almond icing), “which can be eaten empty or stuffed as desired.” 

LUNCH

As lunchtime approaches, it is on to the glossy mahogany interior of Bar Quadronno for Raphy’s second macchiato. Bar Quadronno is a fabled favorite of the fashion world: on a given day, you might be in the company of Bottega Veneta’s creative director Matthieu Blazy (perhaps dreaming up the name-sake Quadronno Bag) or spot Mrs. Prada stirring up revolutions over an aperitif in her “favorite spot”. As the first Milanese bar to serve hot sandwiches, it would be remiss to not pick up a panino; Raphy’s choice is the “modena” with bresaola, mozzarella, and tomato. 

An average day for Senior Fashion Editor at Vogue Italia Elisa Pervinca Bellini is similarly caffeine-fueled and busy, busy, busy. So naturally, lunch is on the go. Elisa picks up chirashi (a Japanese bowl that comes as a colorful assortment of sashimi put over rice) at Parco Sushi Sashimi, to be eaten “little by little when there is time between fashion shows.” Another on-the-go option is grabbing an indulgent handful of Puglian panzerotti at Luini near the Duomo; Rebecca Baglini–celebrity fashion stylist and creative director who’s collaborated with the likes of Paola di Benedetto, Måneskin, and Elettra Lamborghini–says “the flavor is worth standing in line for.” This is also the approach the Milanese street style hunters @milanesiamilano take: picking up takeaway tramezzini, the triangular Venetian sandwiches of crustless white bread, from nearby L’Altro Tramezzino to be eaten “in the cab” en route to the next show. 

But if there is time for a sit-down lunch, incidentally, round the corner is a favorite of both Francesca and Next model Maya Gunn (formerly exclusive for Prada in Milan)–Piz, a Neapolitan pizzeria that bookends any visit with hospitality (and complimentary drinks), offering four “classics at their best”–Margarita, Bianca, Marinara, and a daily special. Elsewhere, Elisa’s favorite spot for pizza is Pit’sa in Etro (conveniently near Prada). There are unexpected (and vegan) toppings, but crucially, Pit’sa puts diversity at the heart of its operations with an initiative to proactively include staff with disabilities. 

APERITIVO

As aperitivo hour swings around and models slip into their off-duty looks, there are the classic heavyweights of the fashion world–the old-school Negroni Sbagliato at Bar Basso, cocktails and people-watching at the Bulgari hotel–and then there are the newcomers, as recommended by Rebecca. First up is low-key Bar Nico of the Acquabella neighborhood, with a design-led, minimalist space (that started off life as a Bolognese pastificio, a pasta-making factory specializing in recipes from the Emilia-Romagnan capital) and a natural wine list. It is particularly in the orbit of sartorial circles, with fashion model Chiara Pino and Sunnei operative Riccardo Ganelli as founders. Otherwise, Rebecca pops her head into Bicchierino, a home-away-from-home neighborhood bar that hums with conversation and laughs, pulling a creative crowd to the Giambellino district.

In and around Porta Romana, Rebecca also advises stopping by buzzy Bar Paradiso for a glass of Barbera d’Alba and an enviable array of aperitivi, from Ciauscolo salumi to homemade crescia sfogliata (a flaky flatbread). 

DINNER

After a day of yo-yoing across the city and hectic back-of-cab outfit changes between shows, relaxing in good company is critical. Happily, you need not go far; near Bar Paradiso is a recommendation of Raphy’s: Michelin-listed (but ultimately unfussy) Dongiò, a Calabrian family-run trattoria that serves up inimitable spaghettoni alla tamarro, a sauce of ‘nduja and tomato, and a house-style tiramisù di ricotta fresca. 

Maintaining this family feel, but for a particularly “special night out,” Rebecca books Milanese institution Trattoria del Pescatore. A “must-try” is their famed signature dish, lobster catalana, that riffs on a traditional Sardinian recipe by introducing red onions and Sardinian tomatoes. Trattoria del Pescatore’s reputation precedes it, so if you can’t get in, try the Trattoria’s little sister, the Pescatore Lobster Bar, and sample a selection of raw fish dishes on the terrace. 

For a high-octane offering, where else than the sixth floor of Fondazione Prada? Book Ristorante Torre for authentic Milanese classics (like “elephant ears”), a view of the skyline, and a retro-futurist interior, reflecting the singular vision of Mrs. Prada and her unmatched art collection. Don’t miss a nightcap under the watchful eye of Lucio Fontana’s “Testa di Medusa” in the adjacent bar. 

Near Parco Sempione, Raphy recommends authentic Milanese trattoria and Michelin favorite, Rovello 18. Go for primi and tagliata, but stay for a wine list of unmatched range and brevity thanks to Gualtiero (one half of the husband-and-wife duo who run the restaurant). Note in particular sparkling wines from Franciacorta Ca’ del Bosco, multi-generational family businesses Pieropan and Franz Haas for whites, and weighty reds from Piedmonte like Barolo from Aldo Conterno. An extensive magnum selection also makes it a natural fit for larger parties.

And if, by the end of the week, you’re ultimately fed up with Italian food, fear not; the capital has more to offer. Lon Fon in Porta Venezia is “loved by many fashionistas,” according to Elisa. Here, you can find the Tsui family serving up Cantonese staples–including an extensive dim sum offering–as they have for 50 years.

For a casual atmosphere slightly further out, Maria goes to Ristorante Mao in Loreto for “the best pork ribs” and Hunan-style noodles. Or for a fine-dining experience in a thoroughly modern space, Francesca looks to IYO KASEKI, a restaurant that freely fuses Italian and Japanese flavors to a Michelin-approved end.

AFTER HOURS

After dinner, the evening splinters. An advanced party must now bid adieu and head to bed. This practice was written into lore by Anna Wintour, who keeps a strict 10 PM bedtime; alas, such is the relentlessly exhausting reality of Fashion Week’s schedule.

But as the hour descends, effervescent partygoers will go on undeterred, pouring into iconic gay club Plastic, immortalized by Andy Worhol as “one of the best clubs in the world“, or Volt, a particular fashion favorite for hosted industry events and house music. Though the “real heat,” according to Lorenzo, is reserved for invitation-only after parties. He adds, “All that counts in Milan is who you know and how many friends you can make.” To make the most of all that the city can offer, Lorenzo counsels “just putting yourself out there… most of all, be yourself and follow the flow.”

As the evening draws to a close, there are a handful of places that can fuel you well into the early hours. Le Capannelle in San Vittore has long offered a port in a storm for partygoers, who can be seen twirling forkfuls of spaghetti alla vongole until daybreak. Or, after a night in lively Navigli, Elisa grabs street food on Via Odardo Tabacchi, where the panini with salamella (fresh pork sausage) and peppers are rumored to be “the best in town.”