In Naples, coffees are ordered with the three C’s—“comm, cazz, coce,” a dialectal term that roughly translates to “damn f*!kin hot.” What will be plopped down on the counter is an espresso—and though it may look like any old espresso, it’s certainly not. The coffee itself should be scorching, as should the cup—so hot, in fact, that it could burn your lips. This, in a mildly masochistic way, is desirable, the reason being that the coffee won’t suffer a temperature shock that could alter its aroma and taste. And, as coffee in Naples is typically a stop-and-go affair, we locals can toss it back before it’s even had a chance to cool down by a single degree. Our iron-clad lips and tongues have been through some thorough training. The uninitiated, however, can use this trick to prevent third-degree burns: bring a bit of coffee up to the cup’s lip, creating “un baffo di caffè” (literally “a mustache of coffee”) to mitigate the ceramic’s high temperature.
Many Neapolitans propose that there is a fourth C, that of compagnia (company), and it’s true that in Naples, the best coffees are those enjoyed together. As it is in much of the world, coffee is an excuse to quickly catch up with a friend or acquaintance; as it isn’t in much of the world, coffee is an excuse to help out a stranger—a cherished, pay-it-forward Neapolitan tradition known as caffè sospeso (which can roughly translate to “pending coffee”). In this anonymous act of charity, Neapolitans pay for two espressos at the bar, one for themselves and another for someone who can’t afford it. This means that coffee in Naples—which runs at 70-80 cents a pop—is never denied to anyone, no matter their social or economic standing.
Luciano De Crescenzo, in his book Il caffè sospeso, explains the phenomenon: “When a Neapolitan is happy for some reason, he decides to offer coffee to a stranger, because it is as if he offered coffee to the rest of the world.”
Here, my six favorite coffee spots in Naples… Bring a friend (or a stranger!) and, of course, order it the local way with three C’s.
BAR MEXICO
A point of reference for real Neapolitan espresso for years, Bar Mexico–which has three locations–serves its famous Passalacqua coffee, named after the cafè’s founder. Ground to order, served already sweetened and in a boiling-hot cup, Mexico’s regular coffee offering is the Moana blend, meticulously crafted by combining 10-12 distinct varieties of Arabica coffee beans. You’ll spot the iconic bar by its orange awning and large “MEXICO” typeface–the vibe is gloriously 60s–as well as the chaotic crowd around it. (It’s right outside the station, after all.) Those with a sweet tooth shouldn’t miss the crema del caffe.
Address: Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi, 72; Piazza Dante, 86; Via Alessandro Scarlatti, 69 (my personal favorite)
CAFE DO BRASIL
Cafè do Brasil, open since 1963, is the most famous and oldest café in Vomero, the hilly district located to the west of the historic city center. Here, espresso is served as tradition dictates: in a hot and already sweetened cup.
Address: Via Luca Giordano, 31
EXYTUS CAFFE (POZZUOLI)
Right by the ferry port, in the center of Pozzuoli, this small kiosk in an alleyway serves a great coffee with a priceless sugar cream. The seafoam green walls of this standing-only establishment are quite charming and set the mood for a ferry ride to the likes of Ischia, Procide, or Capri. Grab a coffee before hopping onto the boat and another when you return to port.
Address: Corso Della Repubblica, 126.
CAFFE DEL PROFESSORE
From hazelnut coffee to Kinder or Nutella coffee, 60 coffee variants are available at the Caffe del Professore alongside classic Neapolitan pastries like sfogliatelle and baba. As it’s just down the street from the Royal Palace of Naples, Caffe del Professore is a bit pricier than the others on this list.
Address: Piazza Trieste e Trento, 46
BAR DELLA CONCHIGLIA
This historic city bar has also become a symbol for its nightlife scene. Head here during the day for excellent coffee of their personalized blend, served in, you guessed it, a hot cup. There’s a good amount of seating inside, so this is a great choice for those looking for a bit more comfort and leisure.
Address: Corso Giuseppe Garibalidi, 57
BAR DELLE ROSE
It may be last of this list, but it ranks first for authenticity and quality. Antonio, or rather “Tonino”, is a coffee master. From his machinetta (coffee machine), espresso drips out already sweetened and right into the damn-hot cup. Bar delle Rose always tops my list of Naples “musts”: the coffee really is roasted to perfection.
Address: Via Libertà, 198
