Neapolitans have visited for generations; poets and artists have long espoused its beauty; the Mediterranean’s most impressive mega-yachts constantly pepper its coastline; and the iconic Capri is right next door… and yet, Ischia continues to fly under the radar.
This is no coincidence. Ischia is the kind of place that you want to keep to yourself, but it’s so magical that you can’t help but gush about it to anyone who will listen.
“My thanks are for you, Ischia, to whom a fair wind has brought me rejoicing with dear friends”
My first experience of my now-beloved island was not a happy one—no ‘fair wind’ accompanied my voyage. As with many of Italy’s best-hidden hotspots, getting there can prove testing. I was not prepared for a journey so maddeningly long and stressful: the crack-of-dawn flight to Naples, the bus to the port, the running around said port, lost and burning under the midday sun, and having to fight my way onto the aliscafo (hydrofoil). A good half day after first leaving the house, I was rather rudely dispensed onto Ischia’s distant shores, sweaty and furiously mumbling to myself, “This had better be worth it.”
Needless to say, it certainly was. I’ll never forget that first breath of salty sea breeze, that first glimpse of the imposing Castello Aragonese, the sparkling waters that beckoned, and Vesuvius hazy but majestic in the distance, watching over it all. But most memorable of all was that first plunge into the sea—the water momentarily taking my breath away as it hit my body: crisp, fresh, and smooth like Acqua Panna, dissolving away life’s stresses and replacing them with peace.
There truly is something in the water in Ischia. A volcanic island, it boasts natural thermal springs with healing qualities that have lured travelers since antiquity. Many visit the island purely for this reason, decamping to the Giardini Poseidon or Negombo thermal parks for their annual dose of wellness, while a younger crowd favors post-party moonlit dips in the natural springs at Sorgeto or Cavascura. Whichever you choose, Ischia’s water acts as a much-needed tonic for the life-battered soul, lulling you into the island’s deliciously idle rhythm with every bagno.
“How well you correct our injured eyes, how gently you train us to see things and men in perspective underneath your uniform light…
Your ambient peace… is a cure for ceasing to think of a way to get on, we learn to simply wander about”
As a lifelong city dweller, accustomed to a frenetic existence and the mindless go-go-go of productivity and endless plans, I arrived in Ischia with an itinerary of places I wanted to visit and things I wanted to do. Within hours I had scrapped it entirely. Ischia was the first place that truly taught me the value of il dolce far niente. Here, one must do as the regulars do: as little as humanly possible. Wake up early, have a coffee, head to the beach, read until lunch, eat a seafood pasta, play cards until dusk, have a spritz, go home, shower, supper, sleep, and do it all again.
This sublime routine is something that Italians have perfected over the years, going to the same place on their summer holidays for generations. And when people visit Ischia for the first time, they quickly understand why. Since my first visit, I haven’t changed a thing. I stay in the same apartment in Citara, go to the same beach (Il Galeone), reserve the same lettini (prima fila, of course), eat in the same place for lunch (again, Il Galeone)… And I’m never happier. There’s a certain comfort—and bliss—in knowing what you’re going to do every day, and knowing that it will, without fail, be wonderful.
“The boiling springs… betray her secret fever”
Perhaps it’s the volcanic energy, the strong sun, the delicious yet dangerously inexpensive wine, or a combination of all of the above—but in true Italian style, Ischia’s calm is punctuated with moments of euphoric joy.
First of all, the food: that gloriously fresh fish, the discovery of coniglio all’Ischitana up in the hills, and the fragrant tomatoes and garlic which make even the simplest dishes unforgettable. Then there are the sunsets, a dream-like orange-pink, best observed from Citara Bay—so beautiful that even the most excitable child falls into a muted hush—which give way to a vast sky of stars, which here seem to shine just that little bit brighter. And, of course, the endless parties: Thursday nights flirting in Forio, Fridays bar-hopping in Ischia Porto, Saturdays dancing at Valentino, and the legendary Sunday aperitivo at Bagni Teresa which goes on past midnight and inevitably ends in a stealthy skinny-dip. Even the best-behaved holidaymakers have found themselves swept up in a passionate romance with the lifeguard or boat captain du jour…
Ill-fated though such romances inevitably turn out to be, this 17-square-mile patch of heaven keeps a sizeable portion of my heart, safeguarding it until next year. My final days on Ischia are always filled with dreams of abandoning everything for a life on the island—perhaps my favorite restaurant will hire me, perhaps I will sell all my belongings and open a beach establishment of my own, or perhaps aforementioned lifeguard will fall in love with me and we can live here happily ever after.
The return to reality is always cruel, life a little less sparkly, the mornings painful as I wake from dreams of gliding through those wonderful waters. But almost as soon as the winter has passed, that magnetic pull gets stronger—I can make out summer on the horizon, and with it, la mia Ischia. My soul begins to soar, knowing that soon I will see her once more.
In honor of helping you discover the best of this island, here are some tried and true tips on doing Ischia right, courtesy of yours truly and local Jeff Di Costanzo of Casa Via Costa.
WHERE TO EAT ON ISCHIA
Bar Calise – Mandatory stop in Ischia Ponte for a breakfast of their cornetto con crema e amarena.
La Vigna Di Alberto – Behind an unmarked iron gate off the side of the road lies your best meal in Ischia. Seconds after sitting, superlative chef’s choice antipasti arrive at your table, to be followed by whatever daily primi are on offer and simple meats cooked on the grill–all served family-style under the open-air patio’s olive trees and grape vine-covered pergola. Reservations highly recommended (be advised that the staff is almost exclusively Italian-speaking) and cash only.
Dal Pescatore – Come here for aperitivo or merenda in Sant Angelo (try their cremolata di gelso).
Nuovo Tropical – Eat spaghetti alla disgraziata and the freshest alici at this beach bar in Spiaggia dei Maronti.
Ristorante Bracconiere – Hike up to this restaurant in Serrara Fontana at sunset for a spectacular view. Book a table, and the rabbit dish, in advance.
Ristorante Casa Celestino – A great spot for a delicious and elegant seafood dinner with a stunning view.
Giardino Eden – Take a water taxi here for a full beach day at their bagno or dress up and come in the evening for a fancy dinner.
Taverna Pithecusana – In the town of Panza in Forio, this charming, rustic spot is open year round and run by the same group behind the now-closed La Cantinola di Zio Jack. They continue to make some of the best pizzas on the island, especially the seasonal pizzas like Fig and Prosciutto or Porcini, Guanciale, and Provola.
Taverna Pietro Paolo Detto Stalino – A super simple spot with checkered tables, tucked into what feels like a little cave. It’s accessible either by boat from Sant’Angelo to Maronti Beach or by a long hike—but the effort is well rewarded with generous plates of fresh tomatoes and seafood pasta. Don’t forget the zeppola at the end!
Il Focolare — Tucked away from Ischia’s more tourist-trodden corners, Il Focolare is a family-run restaurant where the D’Ambra family lets Campanian ingredients do most of the talking. The cooking is rooted in the island but never feels stuck in tradition: simplicity, seasonality, and excellent produce reign. Don’t miss the citrus toasted rice, eggplant gnocchi, cave rabbit, and crispy pork meatballs.
Ristorante Cantine Pietratorcia – Set in the vineyards, this winery-restaurant has a great menu and even better wines; try the Tenuta Chignole, one of the best Biancolella wines you’ll find.
Ristorante La Pagliarella – There’s no menu; Enzo simply cooks what he’s got that day: maybe the freshest catch, maybe garden vegetables, maybe the island’s iconic coniglio all’Ischitana, which he does better than anyone else.
Saturnino – This small, charming spot right by the port has a beautiful veranda overlooking the harbor. Chef Ciro Mattera prepares typical Ischian dishes based on the season, with a strong focus on fresh seafood dishes. He also personally makes his own limoncello (“The best I have ever had!”, says di Costanzo).
WHAT TO DO ON ISCHIA
Spend a day (or the whole trip) at Il Galeone Lido in Citara. Book the front-row sun loungers, and for lunch, make your way through the daily-changing specials. Beware the lifeguard’s charms.
Bring Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan Novels to read on the beach—the second book is partially set on Ischia.
Head to the vineyards of D’Ambra outside Panza for an aperitivo and wine tasting at the 130 year old, four-generation local winery. You can pick up some of their DOC And IGT whites and reds to take home.
Decamp to Spiaggia dei Maronti at least once, the longest beach on Ischia.
Rejuvenate at Negombo — Our favorite thermal park in Ischia, precisely because it doesn’t really feel like one. Set in the Bay of San Montano, its pools, caves and thermal springs disappear into a lush botanical garden of palms, Mediterranean plants and volcanic rock, with the sea just below. Spend a few hours moving between hot water, shade and a swim in the bay—it feels much more like being inside a landscape than visiting a spa.
Do as the youths do and hire a motorino to drive around the island in style.
Take a boat trip around the island. Stock up on suncream and prepare for a party. Two tour groups to look into are West Coast in Forio and Ischia Tour, with options for group trips or self-skipper boats.
Visit the spectacular botanical gardens at Giardini La Mortella.
Go to the recently opened Mezzatorre Hotel for the ultimate Dolce Vita-esque swimming, sunbathing and people watching.
Flirt your way onto a nighttime boat trip to the Baia di Sorgeto (hot springs). Beware wandering hands.
WHERE TO SHOP ON ISCHIA
Ceramiche Mennella – Ischia has a long-tradition of ceramic-making, and this family-run shop in Casamicciola is one of the oldest ceramic makers on the island (and in Italy). All ceramics are hand-painted by artisans and they are well-known for their beautiful terracotta vases.
Antica Sartoria in Forio – A collection of handmade dresses, skirts, and beach coverups (along with men’s clothes) to help you look the part while on Ischia.
WHERE TO SLEEP ON ISCHIA
Casa Via Costa – High on the cliffs of Ischia’s western edge, Casa Via Costa marries agrarian tradition with modern sustainability. This collection of independent guesthouses represents a homecoming for owner Jeff Di Costanzo and includes four restored buildings. Each has a private kitchen, sea-facing garden, and access to a shared vegetable patch (with honeybee hives!). The interiors feature hand-painted Vietri tiles, terrazzo floors, oak cabinetry, and other products from the island.
Faro Punta Imperatore – If you want all the luxury of a private yacht but without the rocking out at sea, this stay is for you. Here, a lighthouse–active since 1884–has been converted into a four-room, private hotel, with rooms hanging out on a cliff overlooking the sea. The secluded location is undeniably romantic, and the 360° views are incomparable.
Casa Celestino – It’s hard to tell where the Mediterranean landscape ends and the interiors of this hotel begin. Perched on a rocky outcrop right over the sea, the 20-room spot is characterized by white walls, large arches, bright color accents, expansive windows, and elaborate tile floors–stunning views of the sea are a given from any room. Their on-site restaurant is also worth a visit in and of itself.
