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The Italy Segreta Guide to the Best Winter Holiday Spots 2023

“When we aren’t at home eating tortellini in brodo and polenta, we’re skiing down the slopes (there’s over 5,000 km of them in Italy!), soaking up the warmth of sulfuric terme, and exploring the tourist-free streets of cities like Palermo and Venice.”

A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, jam, coffee on a rumpled white-sheeted hotel bed; visible hotel logos in soft light. A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, and berries sits on a white bed; Hotel d’Inghilterra Roma logo appears on the right.

While summer gets all the hype for a travel vacation in Italy, there’s something about the lack of crowds and hearty foods of wintertime that will always have a piece of our hearts. When we aren’t at home eating tortellini in brodo and polenta, we’re skiing down the slopes (there’s over 5,000 km of them in Italy!), soaking up the warmth of sulfuric terme, and exploring the tourist-free streets of cities like Palermo and Venice

Here, 31 of our contributors’ favorite wintertime spots across Italy–from picturesque towns and Christmas markets to ski slopes and frozen waterfalls–to help you experience winter in Italy the way we do, with plenty of vin brûlé, panettone, and bombardino to boot. 

ABRUZZO

Furci

“Every November, I eagerly fly to Abruzzo to stay with friends in the enchanting village of Furci, surrounded by the Adriatic coast and Maiella mountains. Their renovated palazzo becomes a cozy winter retreat, filled with Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, vintage Italian ceramics, walks along the Trabocchi Coast, and evenings at the local gem, Locanda Dei Brigante. Next summer, my friends are renting out their home for the first time. Guests can keep the warmer months; it’s Furci in winter that I love the best.” –Ella Alexander, Italy Segreta Contributor

Gran Sasso

“We are going off the map to Gran Sasso to enjoy the mountain views and irreplaceable air. Depending on the weather, hiking trails, skiing, and cozy fireplace reading and wine will ensue.’ –Allison Aniskina, Italy Segreta Contributor

CALABRIA

Sila

“For me, winter should be dominated by two things: the natural fresh air of the mountains and grispeddhicrispelle Calabrese. There is nothing like eating morsels of piping hot fried bread in a cozy catuvu (Calabrian cellar) and drinking homemade wine after a day out in the chilly mountains of La Sila. If you find yourself making friends in this part of Calabria, be sure to inquire about where you can find i panicelli–the slowly-cooked holiday treat only found in the north of Calabria.” –John Vincent, Italy Segreta Contributor

EMILIA ROMAGNA

Bologna

“If you are planning an extended family reunion, a get together with friends, or a romantic tête-à-tête, have dinner at Al Cambio. Order their lasagna and the traditional Bolognese dessert ‘Latte in Piedi’ (a type of custard translating to ‘standing milk’). And, for a little self-care moment during the stress of the holidays, have a drink you’ll never forget at Scuro.” –Lindsay Hillenbrand, Italy Segreta Travel Team

Bologna

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

Tarvisio

“This doll-sized village nestled in an Alpine valley beside the Austro-Slovenian border could have been spirited straight out of an Italian version of The Nutcracker. Its snow-capped houses tumble through an ancient forest peppered with little churches and mountain lakes. Hanging somewhere above lies a popular ski resort, for those who can bear to tear themselves away from the village’s fairy-tale embrace.” –Clementine Lussiana, Italy Segreta Contributor

LAZIO

Rome

“There’s something just a bit more special about Italy’s capital in the winter, with Christmas lights lining Via del Corso and Via Condotti, mozzarella stringing out of a piping hot supplì, and bowls of gooey carbonara and cacio e pepe. Plus, as a major lover of sunsets, the winter’s shorter days mean I get to watch the sky turn bright pink from places like Saint Peter’s Basilica and the monument of Vittorio Emanuele II, which normally close too early for such a spectacle in the summer.” –Nancy Butler, Editorial Assistant at Italy Segreta

LOMBARDY

San Pellegrino

I’ll spend the week between Christmas and New Years in the Alps, cross-country skiing–for I never learned to ski–on the San Pellegrino. I look forward to enjoying the snowy peaks without risking a meniscus, eating all the alpine cheese, and defrosting by the fire with a super-bitter gentian spirit at the end of each day.” –Valeria Necchio, Italy Segreta Contributor

Como

“Before heading south to spend the holidays with my family, I’ll shop the charming, brightly lit Christmas mercatini in Como and watch the children ice skating, vin brûlé in hand.” –Martina Panza, Italy Segreta Contributor 

Como

PIEDMONT

Bardonecchia

“This little ski town epitomizes the winter wonderland aesthetic. Having hosted the 2006 Winter Olympics, the slopes of Bardonecchia are for the beginners and veterans of the hills alike: trails curve through gorgeous pine woods, ski lodges serve a soul-warming bombardino, and the Alpine town hosts a variety of cozy events like live music, arts performances, and swanky shopping.” –Kiva Victoria, Italy Segreta Contributor

Candelo

“During the holidays, this quiet, Medieval-era town–situated around one of the last few functional and occupied ricetti of Italy–transforms into Borgo di Babbo Natale (Santa’s Village) with one of Italy’s best Christmas markets. Visitors and locals alike find themselves in a time capsule of the season’s charm–exhibitions, carols, music, craft stalls, and cellars, and decorations galore–surrounded by Medieval stone walls and cobblestone streets.” –Kiva Victoria, Italy Segreta Contributor

Gavi

Just over an hour away from Milan, this place blends nature and tranquility with breathtaking landscapes, cultural sites, and magnificent vineyards of one of the region’s best white wines.” –Nitika Choraria, Italy Segreta Contributor

Turin

“This city is my favorite to visit in the winter. I love the Christmas lights, misty mornings, stunning baroque architecture, the prettiest wood-fronted shops, and sipping hot chocolate (especially if it’s a Bicerin, the local specialty of hot chocolate, espresso, and panna) in the elegant cafes before strolling along the river.” –Eleanor Sly, London-based Italy Segreta Contributor

Turin

PUGLIA

“I love visiting the area of Valle d’Itria in February–March. Everyone forgets that Puglia is more than just the sea and a summer destination. There are numerous lively towns all year round: Ostuni, Selva di Fasano, Trani, Grottaglie, Martina Franca, Putignano, to name a few. Winter is a great season for scavenging in flea markets, savoring seasonal dishes like fave e cicoria and orecchiette with cime di rapa, relishing fresh sea urchins (which are prohibited from being caught in the summer), and town-hoping to take in the beauty and the local’s everyday life, just with zero crowds.”  –Marina Cacciapuoti, Italy Segreta Co-Founder and Creative Director

Puglia

SICILY

“I particularly love Sicily in the winter, when the trees along the roadside are full of ripe oranges and the harsh winter sun turns the limestone buildings a lovely honey-yellow. Being British, I’m also partial to a (mad) wintertime dip in the sea at the island’s southernmost point, Isola delle Correnti.” –Eleanor Sly, London-based Italy Segreta Contributor

“Traveling to Sicily in the off-season reveals a whole other side of the island: temperatures are mild (last year it was 25ºC in December!), the larger towns are still buzzing with open bars and restaurants, and you can better appreciate cities like Taormina and the christmas-light-adorned Baroque towns of Val di Noto. For those who miss snowy mountains, head up to Mount Etna–it’s not everyday you can ski on an active volcano!” –Antonia Thomas, Senior Exquisite Experience Specialist at The Thinking Traveller and Italy Segreta Contributor

Palermo

“It’s easier to enjoy this bustling city in the winter, when it’s not so hot or crowded. It’s a great holiday destination for couples, plus, many museums organize their own exhibitions for New Year’s Day.” –Deborah D’Addetta, Naples-based Italy Segreta Contributor

Palermo

TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE

Valle del Lozen

“I wish I was renting out the Chalet nel Doch with friends, spending our days trekking in the woods, eating meals in the nearby mountain huts (such as Maso Santa Romina), and listening to the stream flowing through the valley. The simple, magical place is the perfect refuge to wave goodbye to the year that passed and reflect on what’s to come.” –Clio Morichini, Head of Italy Segreta Travel Team

Alta Badia

“The Rifugio Scotoni is one of the most magical huts, located inside the Fanes-Sennes-Braies Natural Park and reachable on foot or via the Lagazuoi cable car along the evocative Armentarola slope–the longest in the Dolomites. I’ll make a stop at Lake Braies, the beginning of the stunning (and warningly challenging!) Alta Via n.1 hiking path, traversing the stunning surrounding peaks until reaching Belluno. One of my favorite winter activities is the Tour of the Great War Route, a ski-only tour through Cortina, Corvara, and the Marmolada along the many battle sites of the Italian and Austro-Hungarian soldiers during WWI, dotted with rocky trenches, patrol paths, and blockhouses. After a long day of skiing, my favorite place to watch the sunset is with a bombardino at Rifugio Cherz.” –Claudio Pierattelli, Florence-based Architect and Italy Segreta Contributor

Ortisei

“This alpine village in the center of Val Gardena is one of the most beautiful in the area. Surrounded by the Dolomites, the town is an ideal starting point for hikers and skiers, and boasts one of the most beautiful shopping streets. Love staying at the 15 min drive  hotel Schgaguler–Cesare Cacciapuoti, Italy Segreta Co-Founder

San Cassiano

“Over the past few winters, we’ve stayed at Hotel Fanes or Rosa Alpina in the tiny village of San Cassiano, at 1537 m above sea level. Even though it’s quite small, it has so much to offer. Eat at Ladinia and head to the hotel bar of La Perla in Corvara for some live music and a delicious hot punch.” –Lindsay Hillenbrand, Italy Segreta Travel Team

Dolomites

“I’ll be dreaming of a white Christmas in the Dolomites. And featured in this dream are copious amounts of mulled wine, chestnuts, the twinkling lights of the mercatini in Merano, and a cozy spa hotel. Oh, and stuffing my face with Apple strudel!” –Maria Pasquale, Italy Segreta Contributor

Dolomites

TUSCANY

Florence 

“I believe cityscapes in winter are a great idea. In winter, Florence smells of fired wood and cypress, hotel prices are reasonable, and the streets and museums are relatively empty. A weekend at Stella D’Italia–a new boutique hotel opened in Via Tornabuoni–a visit at Galleria Romanelli, and dinner at C.ucina is exactly what the soul needs during the cold months.” –Betty Subrizi, Designer at Italy Segreta

Cortona

“I’m looking forward to a sunny winter getaway in Cortona, an ideal haven for strolling leisurely through medieval streets, exploring local boutiques, enjoying aperitivo in the bustling piazza, and diving into the cultural treasures of the Etruscan and Diocesan museums. Evenings include  pici all’aglione and glasses of local Syrah amidst stunning views of the Tuscan countryside.” –Annie Replogle, Italy Segreta Contributor

Le Terme

“Winter is the perfect time for a hot springs tour of Tuscany, with stops at Petriolo, Saturnia, and San Filippo–all free to visit. The sultry, sulfuric waters are the perfect antidote to frigid winter days.” –Anna Hirschorn, Senior Editor at Italy Segreta

 

 

Terme

VALLE D’AOSTA

Lillaz Waterfalls

“The harsh winters and heavy snowfalls that blanket the upper Cogne Valley each winter transform these beautiful waterfalls into striking icefalls, reachable on an accessible loop trail through the woods and panoramic views. For the adventurous, try ice climbing up the falls.” –Alice Romano, Italy Segreta Travel Team

La Thiule

“This winter, I’ll be burning off panettone on the slopes at La Thuile, where you can even ski into France for a plate of raclette–no passport required. Extra points if you find the baita where, after an indulgent lunch, you can hitch a ride back to the slopes in a handsome waiter’s snowmobile.” –Ella Rose Phillips, Italy Segreta Contributor

VENETO

Cortina d’Ampezzo

“My go-to winter destination is not so under the radar. However, the Cortina I hold close to my heart is far away from the glitz and glamor, as this is the valley where I grew up, the one where I first fell in love, and the one where I met the love of my life: skiing! To avoid the crowds, head to the slopes in Monte Cristallo, where Alberto Tomba used to train, and soak up the winter sun on the terrace of Rifugio Son Forca, with unbeatable views of the Tofane.” –Rebecca Gnignati, Italy Segreta Contributor

Venetian Lagoon

“I escape to the Venetian Lagoon, spending my days between Mazzorbo and Burano, walking against a backdrop of crystalline blue waters and the jagged outline of the snow-capped Alps in the distance. Lunch is more often than not at Trattoria Gatto Nero, which feels like coming home, yet with some of the best food on the lagoon.” –Genevieve Verdigel, Italy Segreta Contributor

Venice

“There’s nowhere more romantic than Venice for New Year’s, where the foggy days and smudgy sunsets make for an eerily beautiful, less-crowded winter escape.” –Ella Rose Phillips, Italy Segreta Contributor

Furci

Locanda Dei Brigante

Gran Sasso

Sila

Al Cambio

Scuro

Tarvisio

Rome

San Pellegrino

Como

Bardonecchia

Turin

Candelo

Gavi

Isola delle Correnti

Taormina

Palermo

Chalet nel Doch

Maso Santa Romina

Rifugio Scotoni

Lake Braies

Rifugio Cherz

Ortisei

Hotel Fanes

Rosa Alpina

Ladinia

Monte Cristallo

Rifugio Son Forca

Cortona

Terme di Petriolo

Terme di Saturnia

Terme di San Filippo

Lillaz Waterfalls

La Thiule

Mazzorbo

Burano

Trattoria Gatto Nero

Venice

Stella d'Italia

Florence

Galleria Romanelli

C.ucina

Valle d'Itria