Affettati, crostini, schiacciata, trippa, lampredotto, patate, fagioli all’uccelletto, spinaci, peposo, frattaglie, ribollita, pappardelle al cinghiale, pappa al pomodoro, and, la regina (the queen) of the Florentine table, bistecca alla fiorentina. Paired with the omnipresent bread, strictly sciocco (salt-free), and you have an understanding of Tuscan cuisine. Florence is one of the most visited cities in Italy, and though the center has an exorbitant number of subpar places hawking “traditional fare”, the city’s true culinary giants have held their own.
Cuisine here is based on simplicity, a tradition of cucina povera where non si butta via niente (nothing is to be thrown away!) and lowly ingredients become hearty, flavorful dishes. It’s why most of our favorite spots are simple, with menus (and decor) that hardly vary between locations and have stuck around for at least 50 years. And yet, they’re places we come to again and again. As our headquarters are based in Florence, we’ve collectively eaten at many of these over a hundred times, and, perhaps for the first time in our history, compiling this list involved zero internal debate.
So, here are the restaurants to help you enjoy the best of Florentine cuisine, over plenty of Chianti, of course. (And if you’re craving non-Italian food while you’re here, we’ve got you covered, too.)
SANTO SPIRITO
Trattoria Cammillo – In Oltrarno, this old-school joint is one of those places che non passano mai di moda (that never goes out of style). It’s stayed an icon of the city, first and foremost, because of its wonderful owner Chiara, who masterfully helms the multi-room dining room, and also for the waiters, many of whom have been here for over 30 years. The restaurant boasts one of the longest menus in the city, and it changes daily, with plenty of seasonal dishes, vegetables (a surprising rarity), and gluten-free options due to Chiara’s own intolerance. You’ll need to reserve in advance—and don’t miss the frittata di carciofi, one of our favorite plates in the whole city.
Must Order: Fritti (especially the zucchini flowers), pollo al curry (best with the homemade mango chutney), rapa/sedano con bottarga (when in season), frittata di carciofi or porcini, and make sure to leave space for their desserts: torta al cioccolato, seasonal tiramisù, crostata ai frutti di bosco, torta alle mele… just order all of them.
Enoteca Spontanea – Nicola, a sommelier and wonderful host, and his sister Irene, chef and baker, run this exceptional wine-focused restaurant just steps from Palazzo Pitti. As the name hints, the atmosphere is spontaneous and warm, and they offer a fantastic natural wine selection (let Nicola advise you). It’s exactly the innovative spot Florence needs, with a oft-changing menu that features wild-caught meat (like dove, cinghiale, and pigeon), salted bread, seasonal vegetables, and superb versions of Tuscan dishes, like the paté di fegatini (a tie for our favorite in the city), tonno del chianti, and baccalà crostini. Note that as everything is made from scratch to order, dinners here are a marathon, not a sprint. Reservations required.
Must Order: Paté di fegatini, artichoke ravioli, seasonal torta salata, guancia, tartare, and torta al cioccolato.
Trattoria La Casalinga – Expect a solid, traditional Tuscan meal at this casual trattoria, open since 1963. Their menu is simple and straightforward (the roast half-chicken is surprisingly great), featuring weekly dishes of the day: tripe on Monday, liver on Tuesday, rabbit on Thursday, cod on Friday, and more. We love it best during the warmer months when you can sit outside and enjoy its vicinity to the buzzing Santo Spirito piazza.
Must Order: La pasta con le tre “P”, arista di maiale, liver with sage, peposo all’impruneta, and guancia e lingua con salsa verde.
5 e Cinque – In the local-favorite Piazza della Passera, this organic, vegetarian bistrot is named after the classic Livornese torta di ceci sandwich. Run by an antique-dealing couple (she’s from Sardinia, he’s from Genova), the Ligurian restaurant has an oft-changing menu that’s complemented by a thoughtfully curated selection of natural wines. Soft green accents give the space a chic, understated vibe.
Must Order: Cecina, pasta al pesto, and the paper-thin, cheese-filled focaccia di Recco.
Il Santo Bevitore – This is the restaurant that arguably kicked off the modern revival of the Oltrarno dining scene. Housed in a former coach house on Via di Santo Spirito, it manages to feel both historic and sleek, with vaulted ceilings, dark wood shelves stacked with wine, and a low-lit, moody energy that’s perpetually buzzy. The great (salted) bread and focaccia come from their nearby bakery S.forno, and the menu is a sophisticated take on Italian flavors—refined enough for a date but grounded enough to satisfy traditionalists. It’s always as packed as their next-door wine bar, Il Santino, though you might manage to get a table if you walk up early enough.
Must Order: Their take on spaghetti alle vongole, the pasta with ’nduja, and a great bottle of wine.
Dalla Lola – On a relatively quiet street behind Piazza Santo Spirito, this 30-seat spot has a young, vibrant energy that puts a playful spin on the traditional neighborhood trattoria. It’s run by Matilde Pettini—whose family is behind the legendary Trattoria Camillo—and named after Signora Lola, who ran a local milk bar in the ’70s. The oft-changing, well-priced menu is a fight against monotony, honoring the region’s cucina povera traditions with veggie-forward, inventive dishes seasoned with unexpected flavors like curry or za’atar. The wine list follows the same lead, focusing on natural and funky labels you won’t easily find elsewhere.
Must Order: If available, the pappardelle al sugo finto (a “fake” ragù), lingua panzanella, spaghetti con bottarga, and torta pere e cioccolato.
Osteria dell’Enoteca – On Via Romana, this Oltrarno gem is the brainchild of the team behind the famed Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina. It was envisioned by owners Edoardo, Manuele, Lorenzo, and Zeno as the exact kind of place they wanted to spend their own days off. Chef Nicola Chiappi helms the kitchen, serving a seasonal Tuscan menu that changes frequently to highlight fresh, local ingredients. The standout feature here is the “Wine Wall”; instead of a standard wine list, the staff will help you pick a bottle from their selection of small-scale, traditional producers.
Must Order: The menu rotates, but any of the local meats or seasonal handmade pastas (especially the tagliatelle with ragù bianco or anything with artichoke), paired with whatever bottle the team recommends.
Osteria Tripperia Il Magazzino – Florence’s first “tripe” restaurant, this Piazza della Passera restaurant is fittingly all about offal. The lampredotto and trippa are the stars of the show, though we’d just as happily come here for their non-offal dishes like the tagliata and pici al ragù banco di vitello. There are a few outside tables for fun people-watching in the piazza.
Must Order: Polpette di lampredotto, ravioli di lampredotto, carbonara con asparagi, and pici al ragù banco di vitello.
SAN FREDIANO
Trattoria Sabatino – We love to soak in the sun and enjoy lunch at one of the outdoor tables of this long-lasting neighborhood spot. If you’d prefer to sit inside, you’ll find a sort of cafeteria vibe, with communal tables and plates that come out in minutes. Temper your expectations: it might not blow your mind culinarily, but it’s a standby for simple, homemade dishes at a massively affordable price tag (primi for €4.50, secondi for €5.70). Skip the primi and go for a selection of secondi with contorni (especially the patate al forno!). They don’t take reservations, so prepare to wait in line for a table.
Must Order: Il roastbeef con patate, i gobbi in umido (stewed cardoons), and, on Fridays, le acciughe alla marinara.
Alla Vecchia Bettola – This one-room trattoria has tiny wooden stools, large communal wooden tables, and an even larger personality. It’s simple, chaotic, and delivers an excellent Tuscan feast time and time again. The penne alla bettola is their (excellent) version of penne alla vodka, but don’t miss the other seasonal primi (especially anything with porcini!) and a round of secondi, too. Don’t expect much from the presentation, and proceed with caution re the endless jugs of Chianti for about €4 a person. You’re probably going to need to book ahead, but just know that they rarely answer their phone. Pro Tip: In the summer, they open a location on Lago Ponterotto in San Casciano with a menu starring their most famous primi, a selection of meats for the grill, and contorni.
Must Order: Carciofi fritti, penne alla bettola, anything with porcini or artichokes when in season, guancia, and torta alle mele.
Trattoria del Carmine – Right off its namesake piazza, this trattoria is a quintessential, no-nonsense Florentine institution that has remained largely unchanged for decades. It is the kind of place where the white-jacketed waiters provide brisk, old-school service and the daily menu is handwritten in Italian. You can always find a few seafood specials here—paccheri with mussels and clams, fried alici, etc.—plus some Italian dishes from outside Tuscany, like costoletta alla milanese and seasonal risotto. In summer, they open a nice outdoor patio, though it’s particularly cozy in winter with a steaming bowl of tortellini in brodo and plenty of hearty Tuscan wine.
Must Order: Paccheri with mussels and clams, spaghetti alle vongole, carpaccio, insalata carciofi, vitello tonnato, costoletta alla milanese, and anything else off their menu of the day.
I Brindellone – Just a block off Piazza del Carmine, this is a neighborhood classic for simple, honest Tuscan cooking. With its communal bench seating, warm wood paneling, and walls papered in photos of Calcio Storico players, the vibe is unapologetically local and delightfully noisy. Keep in mind that with only two seatings per service, you’ll likely need to book a few weeks out to snag a spot.
Must Order: Bistecca alla fiorentina, coccoli, and the tagliolini al tartufo (when in season).
Meno – Just past Piazza Tasso, this modern “vineria with a kitchen” brings the flavors of Puglia to Florence thanks to the young chef Davide from Bari. The name itself means “less,” though their dishes—even the simplest tomato-studded focaccia Barese or fava purée with sauteed chicory—certainly aren’t lacking in flavor. Run by the hospitable Massimo, the restaurant has a weekly rotating chalkboard menu, convivial atmosphere, and a superb natural wine list—sourced from producers Massimo has spent 15 years personally visiting. Pro tip: If everyone at your table agrees to leave their cell phones in a box for the duration of dinner, they’ll trim 10% off your entire bill.
Must Order: The menu rotates, but favorites include orecchiette con cime di rapa, fave e cicorie, the traditional focaccia barese, and whatever natural bottle Massimo picks for you.
C-ucina – Near Piazza Tasso, this restaurant is the brainchild of two architects-turned-chefs who transformed a former garage into a beautifully designed, Copenhagen-style dining room. Recognizable by its bright red door and open kitchen, C-ucina offers the kind of reinterpretive creativity the city desperately needs. The menu is tight and changes every day, featuring eight to 10 seasonal, veggie-forward plates meant for sharing—think ragù served atop cabbage instead of pasta. The wine list is thoughtfully curated, and the bread is, importantly, salted.
Must Order: The menu changes daily, so ask for recommendations. Past favorites include the passatelli, inzimino, verza insalata, and sbrisolona.
DUOMO/CENTRO
Regina Bistecca – This upscale restaurant by hotelier Mateo Perduca has an old-school New York City feel with a hip bar (one of the few where you can enjoy a meal solo) and a legit Florentine steak—strictly rare and cooked on burning carbon. For the beef connoisseurs among us, you have your choice of two different kinds of steak—Angus or Chianina (our favorite)—that comes with a set menu of antipasti and contorni, though you can also order primi and secondi à la carte. If you return enough times, you’ll be gifted your own engraved steak knife, to be kept at the restaurant and provided each time you come.
Must Order: Bistecca alla fiorentina accompanied by all the sides and the prosciutto to begin.
Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori – In a narrow alley behind Piazza della Signoria, this restaurant boldly proclaims NO pizza, ice, takeaway, phone signal, Wi-Fi, cappuccino, or spritz. What you will find are well-executed traditional Tuscan plates accompanied by a fabulously unexpected playlist of pop hits, both curated by a lively proprietor who makes all the guests feel like family; keep an eye out for his nods to Madonna (the pop star, not Jesus’ mother).
Must Order: Pappardelle al sugo d’anatra, fagioli con bottarga, and anything with artichokes.
Buca dell’Orafo – A mere 20 steps from the Ponte Vecchio, this basement spot is a subterranean escape from the tourist throngs. Down a flight of stairs in an old wine cellar, the cozy dining room stays wonderfully cool on hot summer days. The kitchen serves a slightly upscale take on classic Tuscan fare, with a particular knack for seasonal ingredients (especially artichokes!).
Must Order: Frittata di carciofi, ribollita, and tagliolini con carciofi.
Trattoria Mossacce – This tight trattoria, a few paces from the Duomo, features a daily changing menu and some of the fastest service in the city. You’ll sit elbow-to-elbow with the city’s workers on lunch break, who frequent the establishment for quick, filling, well-priced meals. We particularly love it on chilly days, with a pile of sugo-topped polenta, roasted meat, and great patate al forno.
Must Order: Arista, polenta con sugo di salsiccia, roast beef, fagioli, and patate.
SANTA MARIA NOVELLA
Trattoria Sostanza – This no-frills spot is the epitome of cucina povera done right. You’ll sit at large communal tables in a tiny dining room that splits its space with the open kitchen (which you’ll have to walk through to reach the bathroom). The menu rarely changes, but is proof that less is more, especially when it comes to their best dishes: the sizzling pollo al burro—juicy chicken breasts cooked in a lot of butter—and the fluffy il tortino di carciofi. They have strict hours and two seatings only at lunch and dinner, so reserve in advance and don’t be late.
Must Order: Tortellini in brodo, pollo al burro, il tortino di carciofi (like a frittata), and torta meringata (it’s especially legendary when it comes with wild strawberries).
Il Latini – A fixture of the city since 1911, this restaurant began as a simple wine shop in the cellars of Palazzo Rucellai. Its history is tied to the neighborhood: during the 1966 flood, the family famously served hot meals and wine to Florentines in the mud-covered streets. Today, run by the fourth generation, the space remains a labyrinth of rooms where prosciutto legs hang from the ceiling. Go for the full experience: a well-priced set menu of house antipasti, a trio of primi, and their great bistecca with sides, followed by coffee, dessert, and a digestivo. Il Latini captures the old-school fiaschetteria spirit that is becoming increasingly rare in the center.
Must Order: The hand-carved prosciutto, ribollita, and bistecca alla fiorentina.
Orizi Mariano – Look for the block-letter sign of this alimentari for lunchtime panini of salami, cheese, oil-cured veggies, and—our favorite—lingua. There are a few tables under the vaulted brick ceilings in the back where you can eat with a glass of wine; you can also pick up a bottle of wine and some other cured goodies to go.
SANTA CROCE
Del Fagioli – You won’t find this neighborhood trattoria on almost any typical Florence guide, and that’s exactly why it remains a favorite. Plus, it’s a rare Santa Croce find where you can often secure a same-day table. Take a peek at what’s cooking in the open kitchen as you walk in to gauge the day’s best offerings. While the wood-fired grill is a draw for excellent bistecca, the kitchen excels at the full Tuscan canon, delivering unpretentious, soul-warming plates.
Must Order: Penne strascicate, ribollita, bistecca alla fiorentina, scamerita, carciofi, and pici all’aglione and insalata radicchio, when in season.
SANT’AMBROGIO
Cibrèo Caffè – In Sant’Ambrogio, this Florentine staple has been here since 1979 and carries on the legacy of the late, great Fabio Picchi. The caffè is our favorite within the Cibrèo family (which also includes a restaurant, trattoria, theater, and Italian-Asian tasting menu spot), and not only for the charming red velvet movie-theater seats. Start with a “vassoio” of their signature antipasti—requesting a double order of the cult-status liver paté—and move on to the silky tagliolini cacio e burro, which made the New York Times’ “25 Essential Pasta Dishes to Eat in Italy”. Don’t miss their iconic torta al cioccolato for dessert.
Must Order: Vassoio di antipasti, tagliolino cacio e burro, bracioline di vitella, and torta al cioccolato.
Teatro Del Sale – Part of the Cibrèo family (and boasting the same menu as the Caffè), this Sant Ambrogio theater is where you go for dinner and a show. Enjoy Cibrèo crowd favorites—paté, busiate alla pomarola, roast beef—before the entertainment, which can be anything from comedy to live music or even karaoke. Check the calendar and reserve in advance; if it’s your first time, you’ll also have to buy the €15 annual membership.
SAN LORENZO
Sergio Gozzi – A relic of old Florence in the heart of the city, this restaurant has been satisfying locals and tourists since 1915, when Antonio Gozzi first inherited the restaurant. Initially, he just served a few soups and beans, and later expanded the menu with boiled meat, which he served once a week. Today, their menu is slightly more varied (you can find a standard selection of primi and secondi), but still sticking to this region’s culinary traditions. It’s only open for lunch, and they don’t take reservations; you’ll be lucky to get a table among the crowds of regulars.
Must Order: I pici and il peposo.
Trattoria Mario – Spartan, noisy, and rough around the edges, this trattoria behind the San Lorenzo market shines in a piazza of tourist traps. It was first opened by Romeo, Amelia, and their son Mario in 1953, though the oak wood ceilings date back to the mid-1500s. You’ll squeeze in on small wooden stools and enjoy a variety of local dishes, or you can hang out upstairs and snack on crostini with a glass of wine. Reservations, if you happen to snag one, are only possible by calling from 7 AM to 10:30 AM. Remember: once you step inside, it’s always “Forza Viola!”
Must Order: Minestrone, roasted chicken, bistecca, and tortelli con ragù. The fish is also worth trying, but it must be ordered in advance from Tuesday onwards—otherwise, you’ll only find it on Fridays.
VIA GIOBERTI
Bar Bar – Right off Via Gioberti, Bar Bar is a stylish departure from the city’s parade of trattorias, with an expansive, plant-filled outdoor terrace and an indoor area that’s modern industrial-chic. The quality of the Mediterranean-fusion menu and the high-level mixology justify the price point, making it a great spot for a date or a girls’ night out. Their long hours mean you can sip more than a few cocktails late into the evening.
Must Order: Spaghettoni alle triglie, bisque e polvere di gambero rosso, and fragoline di bosco con zabaione, plus anything from their inventive, seasonal cocktail list.
Antica Trattoria “Il Barrino” – A neighborhood fixture since 1927, Il Barrino is a reliable anchor for locals just off Via Gioberti. It pulls off a great balance—the interior is cozy and elegant, with exposed beams and soft lighting, but the prices stay completely grounded. The kitchen sticks to seasonal, land-focused cooking, sourcing almost all of its ingredients from nearby farms. It’s a great choice for unpretentious dishes like rooster from Montespertoli or a rich ossobuco from Valdisieve.
Must Order: Vellutata di cicerchie (if in season), tagliolini ai broccoli e rigaino croccante, and ossobuco alla fiorentina.
OUTSIDE CITY CENTER
Trattoria Da Ruggero (Porta Romana) – This local’s favorite out past Porta Romana is blissfully off-the-radar, with decor stuck in the ’70s, a handwritten menu, and all-star Tuscan dishes. It’s a place that always feels like Sunday lunches di altri tempi (of other times), with really well-executed versions of our favorite dishes—like the arista, thick, hot, and juicy—that make the uphill hike worthwhile.
Must Order: Farinata di cavolo nero, spaghetti alla carettiera, arista, carciofi al tegame and patate arrosto.
Da Burde (Peretola) – Run by the Gori brothers, this Florentine heavyweight—opened in 1901—holds a rare double reputation: Andrea, who runs the dining room, is one of Italy’s most famous sommeliers, while Paolo rules a kitchen dedicated to heavy-hitting Florentine dishes that are always well-executed. Located on the outskirts of the city, it’s a spot you visit with purpose rather than stumble upon, and locals do, again and again. The vibe is straightforward and chill—eat at the bar among the regulars (our favorite) or head into the wood-clad dining room for the full menu. It’s consistent, honest, and worth the trek and/or tram ride.
Must Order: Baccalà alla livornese, farinata di cavolo nero, and a selection from their vast wine cellar.
L’Angolo del Mare (Coverciano) – Literally and physically “the corner of the sea,” this neighborhood stalwart is tucked away in the residential area of Coverciano. While the few other seafood restaurants here tend to overcomplicate, this one shines because their dishes are simple—making it extra perfect when you’re in need of a bistecca or pappardelle all cinghiale break. The atmosphere is as fresh as the catch; we like the carpaccios best.
Must Order: Un assaggio di antipasti and carpacci di tonno, ricciola, e scampi.
Pasticceria Ristorante Giorgio (Soffiano) – Located outside the city center in Soffiano, this legendary institution is a bustling, world-class pasticceria in the front and a refined, white-glove seafood restaurant in the back. While most locals flock here for the pastries or the quick-service tavola calda for lunch, the hidden dining room in the back is one of the city’s best-kept secrets for high-end fish since 1972. The menu leans Venetian, with dishes like baccalà mantecato, and all of their excellent crudo justifies the price point.
Must Order: Pesce del giorno, cozze, and cruditè di pesce.

TECUM (Porta al Prato) – This hip gastronomia in Porta al Prato is a quick, easy pick with plenty of options, including vegetarian ones. You can either sit down and eat or take a selection to go (or both, of course). The dishes are hearty and well-seasoned—think carciofi alla romana, peas cooked with guanciale, and rich ragù alla bolognese. The bread is surprisingly tasty, and they also have a nice selection of natural wines. You can expect this little gem to be packed with locals whenever you stop in.
Fratelli Briganti (Statuto) – Just across the Mugnone torrent in the residential Statuto neighborhood, this legendary restaurant has been the pranzo della domenica spot since 1960. The wood-paneled dining room feels delightfully frozen in the 1970s, now run by the towering, tie-wearing Leonardo, who carries on his family’s legacy. You’ll often see large families, friends of all ages gathering for birthdays, and solo regulars, digging into wood-fired pizzas, top-tier fritti, and large plates of spaghetti alla briganti (their take on spaghetti pomodoro, which alludes to the sign out front that still reads “Spaghetteria” in big letters). Reservations are a must.
Must Order: Spaghetti alla Briganti, mozzarella in carrozza, carciofi fritti, trippa alla fiorentina, and meringata.
LeLune (San Domenico) – You can’t get much closer to the source than this: located at the foot of the hill leading to Fiesole, the restaurant is built inside a nursery belonging to the Barbialla and Fontallerta farms. These estates supply nearly everything on the modern, artistic menu—from the Chianina meat and game to the olive oil and truffles—while the surrounding gardens provide the herbs and edible flowers. No matter the time of year, the dining room is refreshingly lush; the view overlooking Florence is pretty noteworthy, too.
Must Order: The menu shifts with the harvest, so go with whatever is in peak season.
L’Oca Bonda (Impruneta) – In a former grocery store on the fringe of Florence, three industry veterans have opened one of Florence’s most interesting new restaurants. Helming, in tandem, the kitchen, the floor, and the cellar, the trio has stripped away overhead to keep elevated plates at neighborhood prices. The menu changes seasonally, though there’s always a strong emphasis on seafood, sourced exclusively from the Tuscan coast and made into the likes of a silky sea urchin spaghetti or monkfish wellington. With dishes like fegatini, served with prosciutto and peaches, sweetbreads with bell peppers, and cod, pecorino, and fava gnocchi (which had every Italian at the table questioning the “impossible” union of fish and cheese), the menu strikes a perfect balance between the familiar and the experimental—a rare feat in Florence.
Must Order: Seasonal gnocchi, anything with fish, and antipasti to share.
Bottega di Rosano (Rosano) – Our secret spot for a scampagnata fuori porta (a countryside escape), this alimentari and trattoria, just 20 minutes from Florence, is the ultimate destination for a Sunday lunch. Have Matteo build you a massive schiacciata to eat by the well-stocked gastronomia counter or on the go, or head to the back room for a full, sit-down Tuscan meal. It feels frozen in time in the best way possible—just make sure to save space for the daily homemade cakes, and be sure to take some meat, cheese, and other products home with you. Lunch only.
Must Order: A custom schiacciata and a slice of whatever cake is on the counter.
Osteria del Milione (Giogoli) – Atop the hill of Giogoli on the southwestern edge of Florence, this osteria is part of the sprawling Fattoria Il Milione estate, which dates back to the 1300s. The draw here is the incredible stone terrace that offers a direct line of sight to Brunelleschi’s Dome, framed by olive orchards and cypress trees. It feels worlds away from the city center, despite being just a 15-minute drive from Porta Romana. The service is straightforward and the kitchen superb, and in the winter, giant windows offer the same expansive view from the rustic dining room.
Must Order: Pappardelle all’anatra, rigatoni con carciofi e pecorino, and maialino arrosto.
Ristorante Tullio a Montebeni (Montebeni) – On the narrow, curved roads just past Fiesole, Montebeni is a pocket of agricultural fields and woods where this family institution has stood since 1958. What began as a humble grocery store, La Bottega di Tullio, evolved into a destination trattoria when the grandparents, Mario and Emilia, started serving “hot food” to local hunters and farmers, often with the animals they caught on their hunts. Today, it remains a bastion of rural Tuscan hospitality and has one of Florence’s best and most interesting steaks—it’s fried! Closed on Mondays and open for lunch on the weekend; book in advance.
Must Order: Spaghetti Cavalieri, pici al ragù bistecca fritta, salvia fritta (fried sage), and cheesecake with nonna’s blackberry jam, best enjoyed with a glass of vin santo.














