My Venice is a city of contrast–contrast that lives in its narrow alleyways, in the crazy light of the sunset, in the smells of saltwater and fresh seafood, in the surprising silences when you turn a corner. It’s a contrast that lives in Venice as both an international hotspot and a small village at the same time. It often feels as if Venice is moving to the beat of two different drums. In the off-season, the canals are still, crystalline; in the on-season–among the sound of gondoliers singing ballads, the hum of motorboats and the chatter of tourists–the canals’ choppy waves lap against the streets where locals and tourists jostle for space. It often feels as if this chaos is bursting at the seams of my city: this much tourism is a lot for such a small, immutable city. As such, Venice is one of the hardest cities to truly get to know. Even for me, who has lived here my entire life, it is a continuous discovery.
Venice is a place where roaming and entering at random doesn’t quite work: to enjoy the city like a local, you have to know where to go and beat the chaos. These are the places I find my Venice:
Shopping at the Rialto Market for the freshest vegetables and fish from the lagoon.
At Arco for a Venetian-style cicchetti breakfast, strictly homemade.
Observing true Venetian life from a red bench in Campo Santa Margherita, preferably in the company of a book purchased at the independent Marco Polo bookshop.
Vino Vero or Adriatico Mar for a glass of natural wine canalfront.
The Guggenheim: because Peggy was and still is an icon of the city for the metaphysical garden and for possibly the most inspiring view of the water.
After a morning stroll, Tonolo or da Nono Colussi for a classic breakfast–pastries and a cappuccino.
CoVino, where the food is seasonal and you’re given a mini spatula to help with scarpetta.
In the Dorsoduro area, a compulsory cicchetti stop at Cantinone Schiavi and a gianduiotto ice cream from Nico.
Osteria Anice Stellato to taste revisited flavors with a focus on the daily.
Punta della Dogana for the commanding restoration by Tadao Ando, the memorable exhibitions and the San Marco basin.
Three Oci for lovers of contemporary photography and to see Venice from Giudecca.
Aperitivo in the fading light at Bacaro da Lele, a real hole in the corner.
Fortuny Museum: gothic, mystical and a source of continuous inspiration.
A boat trip to explore the lagoon and the constellation of beautiful islands, each different from the other in history, identity, colors.
Al Covo for dinner at a restaurant that gives value to and conserves the products of the lagoon.
A lunch overlooking Venice from San Giorgio island at Trattoria Altanella
Cannaregio at nightfall.
Rowing in fondamenta della Misericordia at golden hour.
Summer by bike on the Lido to Bagni Alberoni for a jump into the water and the past.
Corte Sconta: a refined and contemporary atmosphere where you should order risotto di gò, a poor dish from the lagoon, rare and delicious.
In San Polo, Antiche Carampane, a popular and authentic restaurant, just like the hospitality of its host Francesco.
Wisteria: a new entry in the Venetian gastronomic panorama with a young chef and team–a real experience.
The bistro of Alajmo world at Al Quadrino, where you can sit with a stunning view of Piazza San Marco.
Opened after its counterparts in London and Paris, the Experimental Cocktail Club at the Zattere, the trendiest of the Venetian bars.
And you can’t leave without: Pied à Terre furlane, a vintage photo from the Cameraphoto Arte Archive, a lucky souvenir from Venetia Studium, a postcard from the Venezia Stampa printing house (made with drawings by local artists), a vase from Micheluzzi’s glass or Marina e Susanna sent, a piece of glass jewellery from Perlamadredesign the creamed cod of Cibo.
