If you were to ask us about our favorite regional cuisine, Puglia would undoubtedly be at the top. Geographically, the peninsular region has the best of both worlds–800 meters of coastline and an interior covered mainly by olive trees and farmland–and claims the right to some of Italy’s most famous foods (we’re looking at you, burrata).

On an elevated, fertile plain in the center of Puglia, the Valle D’Itria captures the best of the region. Here, simple ingredients like vegetables and cheese rightfully take center stage, from fave e cicoria (fava beans and chicory), cime di rape, and barattieri (the lovechild of cucumber and melon) to caciocavallo siano and canestrato. The region also boasts the famous Pane di Altamura (the only bread in the world granted PDO-protected status), sourdough bread of Laterza, friselle, an endless variety of olive-oil-softened taralli, and orecchiette, handmade by nonne in the streets outside their houses. 

Although the majority of the valley is characterized by wooded slopes, olive groves, and vineyards, the valley runs predominantly along the Adriatic Sea. It’s no surprise then that you can find some of the freshest seafood, including mussels, often prepared with potatoes and rice for a savory pie called tiella di cozze, and sea urchins caught only in winter and eaten raw. Away from the coast, you’ll find meat-based specialties like capocollo di Martina Franca and bombette, grilled pork and cheese skewers that are best eaten at “fornelli Pugliesi”, special butchers’ shops where the meat is selected, grilled, and eaten on the spot. The secret ingredient in all these dishes: a massive glug of bright green, perfectly spicy olive oil, as Puglia, especially this valley, accounts for a whopping 40% of total olive oil production in Italy–the highest of any region. 

Bookended by Putignano in the north and Ostuni in the south, the valley is most famous for its trulli towns like Alberobello, but we recommend skipping these tourist hotspots for small town gems like Martina Franca, Torre Canne, and Speziale. The best, and more-or-less only, way to truly explore the region is by car, and if you head to all the spots on the list, you’ll get a hearty taste of the valley, its cuisine, and the reason it holds such a special place in our hearts. Here, our favorite restaurants in every corner of the Valle D’Itria, as well as in the nearby transportation hub of Bari.

Antichi Sapori, Montegrosso – Nestled in an unassuming town to the north of the valley, Pitro Zito’s unexpected restaurant delivers one of the most exceptional dining experiences in Puglia, if not in all of Italy. The menu stars impeccable produce sourced from their family-run garden a mere two minutes from the restaurant.

Must Order: All of the appetizers and their interpretation of Sicilian cassata 

Botteghe Antiche, Putignano – This classy osteria is a must-visit for Puglian dishes like bombette and braciole that are as beautiful as they are flavorful, but the real MVP is their 800-label wine list featuring local, natural, and international bottles. 

Must Order: Aside from the aforementioned dishes, the antipasti misti and the various assaggi di carne 

PerBacco, Bari – Right off of the Lungomare, this fine-dining spot is an homage to Pugliese cuisine, featuring exquisite seafood and local produce with traditional flavors  masterminded by Chef Beppe Schino, plus an extensive wine list. 

Must Order: Octopus with fave puree, spaghettoni con pesto di finocchio selvatico, and colatura di alici e mandorle or with bottarga and thyme. 

Mezza Pagnotta, Ruvo di Puglio – Tucked in a historic residential villa, this ethnobotanical restaurant features farm-to-table cuisine and an entirely vegetarian (and affordable) tasting menu masterminded by passionate Head Chef Francesco Montaruli,  who grew up in the plateaus of Puglia and emanates the spirit of the community and land. Inside, the interior is reminiscent of the Puglian countryside that inspires their thoughtfully-crafted dishes. 

Must Order: The tasting menu

El Focacciaro, Bari – Close to the waterfront, this spot is known by both locals and tourists alike for having the best focaccia Barese and panzerotti in the city. The bakery churns out both to the lines of customers at an impressive rate.  

Must Order: Traditional and potato focaccia Barese, tomato and mozzarella panzerotti

Magda, Bari – This long-standing bakery right by Bari’s train station makes focaccia barese that we dream about: ample tomatoes on top, fluffy (fluffy!) insides, and edges that are just the right level of burnt. It can get chaotic at lunchtime, but it’s all part of the experience. Take a kilo when you get off the train, and another kilo when you get back on. 

Must Order: Focaccia barese

Al Pescatore, Bari – Chic, fresh, and elevated, this is the best fish restaurant in Bari. The flavorful dishes come out on colorful ceramic plates, and the restaurant’s 46-page wine list counts many fantastic bottles. 

Must Order: Ricci, crudo mare, spaghetti al polpo, scamponi al ghiaccio, and risotto cacio, pepe e gambero rosso

AlbaChiara, Torre Canne – Located right on the sea, this fully-outdoor, rustic restaurant is simply delicious, with unparalleled sunset views, plastic chairs and tablecloths, and crudi as fresh as the salty breeze blowing through your hair during the whole meal. 

Must Order: Gamberi, pinzimonio di cozze, i cavatelli ai frutti di mare, i ricci di mare, and le cozze pelose 

Zio Pietro, Cisternino (Fornelli Pugliesi) – Don’t be discouraged by the queue at this transformed butcher shop; it moves quickly, and the experience is well-worth the wait. Place your order directly at the counter amidst the array of available regional meats: bombette, sausage, lamb ribs, and local cold cuts.

Must Order: Bombette

Puro, Polignano a Mare – This upscale Japanese restaurant along the water has some of the best sushi in Italy, done the Pugliese way: with the freshest local fish.

Must Order: You can’t go wrong with any of the simple sushi classics. 

L’Osteria di Chichibio, Polignano a Mare – Elegant, refined, and with excellent seafood, this small restaurant is one of the few places in Polignano a Mare that pays attention to quality over quantity, using only wild-caught and non-farmed fish. 

Must Order: Gamberoni rossi locali, fusilloni con pomodoro infornato, gamberi rossi e lime 

La Luna del Pozzo, Grottaglie – You’re likely visiting Grottaglie for the ceramics, but you’ll certainly be returning for this tiny osteria. Chef Maria Carmela prepares a few traditional dishes with all local produce, and her partner Manolo Ghionna does an excellent job welcoming guests into their dining room.

Must Order: Tagliolini al limon e gambere rossi and the cannolo scomposto

Il Cortiletto, Speziale – This incredibly charming restaurant in Speziale serves the best of local fare. If you’re in the mood to feast, order the excellent antipasto della casa, which comes with 18 different dishes! 

Must order: Fave e cicorie, orechiette al ragù, and pollo del cortilletto 

Caseificio Crovace, Speziale – Unassuming from the outside, this mini-market is your headquarters for all ingredients Puglia. Stop in to collect the best cheeses, cured meats, and other local delicacies for a picnic and to talk to the lovely and passionate Oronzo family. 

Must Order: All the local cheeses

Osteria del Tempo Perso, Ostuni – Built into an old forno, this iconic restaurant in Ostuni deserves its famed reputation. Along with incredible meat and pasta dishes, you can sit inside the dimly lit, vibey, 16th century cave-turned-oven or in the bright-lit, modern, adjoining revamped granary. 

Must Order: Le orecchiete con cime di rapa and the polpette 

La Marea del Santino, Sevelletri – In the quiet town of Savelletri, this fantastic restaurant has a stunning view of the sea and some of the best seafood in the region. Dining here comes with a price, but for the service, fish quality, and ambience, it’s more than worth it. In the summer, don’t miss dining al fresco. 

Must Order: I crudi and the spaghettoni ai gamberoni

Pinto Carlo, Castellana – This small butcher shop is a true Pugliese experience and family affair: Rosella welcomes you with bruschette and olives, while Carlo chooses and grills you the most flavorful of meat.

Must Order: Carciofini e melanzane sott’olio, patate skewer, and agnello al latte 

Osteria Del Caroseno, Castellana – This excellent family-run osteria in Castellana Grotte offers innovative interpretations of typical recipes, celebrating Pulian traditional raw materials. The interior has a striking open kitchen and combines colorful, modern table settings with white rock and hanging copper pots. 

Must Order: Baccala pastellato and ragù Barese

Silvè, Fasano –This intimate restaurant is run by a mother-and-son duo, with Silvè up front and Maria in the kitchen. Their traditional, seasonal menu never disappoints, and by the end of the meal, you’ll feel like you (and the rest of the diners in the eight-table dining room) are also part of their family. 

Must Order: You don’t get to pick what you eat; Maria will make whatever she feels like cooking that day. 

La Cuccagna, Crispiano – The name for this restaurant / enoteca refers to a fictional or idealized place or situation where everything is abundant and delightful. It’s quite fitting: the wine, food, and company here are almost too good to be true. Opened in 1969 as a macelleria con fornello (butcher shop with a stove), the restaurant embodies the welcoming, flavorful Pugliese spirit with an impressive wine list, an innovative meat-forward menu, and a clean dining room decorated with ceramics from the region.  

Must Order: Troccolo fresco con rape, fave e pancetta croccante and arrosto misto: salsiccia, bombette, costine di maiale, agnello e fegatini

La Locanda Porta Picc, Polignano a Mare – Tucked within the busy town, entering through this “small door” is like stepping back in time: waiters in bow ties rush around the rustic, 50-seat dining rooms, bringing guests typical dishes from both the land and the sea. It’s an incredibly charming, family-run restaurant, with a menu that’s refreshingly not-touristy. 

Must order: Tortellone ripieno con gamberi, pacchero rigato con salsiccia e carciofi

Ardecuore, Fasano – The seasonal, experimental kitchen at this small trattoria focuses on contemporary takes on traditional dishes, and they use only local products. The chef, manager, and maitre are a team of three men with years of international experience, and their commitment to hospitality and to their olive-tree studded land is unwavering.

Must Order: Ricottine, fave e cicoria, their homemade french fries, costata podolica