The beating heart of the Val di Noto is–by no surprise–Noto. The Baroque city, the epicentre of the valley, emerges from the scorched landscape of southern Sicily like a mirage. The contours of its ramparts reflect the light of the brilliant sun and refracts it off the honey-hued stone typical of the area. This is how I remember my first visit to Noto on a midsummer’s afternoon that had topped all temperature records. Cruising down the coastline from Catania, across a landscape that looked like the surface of Mars, I resisted the urge to stop every few minutes for the street vendors selling watermelons the size of babies. I pulled up to Noto very much in need of an escape from the daily grind, and I found exactly the feeling I was looking for all over the valley, a region that, very much off the tourist beaten path, still feels led by the locals. 

It’s not for nothing that the Val di Noto–comprising the eight towns of Noto, Modica, Ragusa, Scicli, Catania, Caltagirone, Palazzolo Acreide, and militello Val di Catania–has acquired UNESCO World Heritage status. Though it’s not on account of its art, its culture, or its cuisine, but rather a tragic earthquake that led to the region’s complete reconstruction. In 1693, the seismic event of 7.4 magnitude saw the flattening of the entirety of the south-east, including the destruction of all architectural structures from the preceding generations. The island was under Spanish rule at the time, and, in line with the theme of Sicilian resistance, the Spanish Viceroy Marcantonio Colonna commissioned the rebuilding of the affected towns. Spanish architects and engineers, influenced by the prevailing Baroque style in Spain at the time, incorporated elements of the Baroque style into the reconstruction, resulting in the emergence of what is now known as Sicilian Baroque architecture.

The construction effort saw the towns of Ragusa, Modica, Noto, and Catania amongst others be redesigned in a single initiative, giving rise to a unique and cohesive visual identity: flamboyant, elegant, and theatrical thanks to Baroque flourishes, swirls, and ornamentation. The architectural and cultural reconstruction of the area was akin to the rebirth of a phoenix from the flames. But, rather than bursting forth from the earth, the new towns were built from and into the local limestone, pietra di Comiso, emerging seamlessly from their surroundings.

Here, five can’t-miss towns of the Val di Noto, plus where to eat, where to stay, and what to doin the countryside while you’re there.

NOTO

The jewel in the crown of the Val’, Noto is the most well-known of the region and, as such, is the most touristic. It’s definitely worth going, but to really get a taste of local life in the region without crowds, don’t eschew the other, less buzzy towns on this list. 

Come Friday evening in midsummer and it appears as if all of Sicily has descended for a passeggiata in Noto and you wouldn’t want to be elsewhere. The Corso Vittorio Emmanuele is where it all happens. Running from east to west, the Corso passes the ornate Cattedrale di San Nicolò, constructed between 1700 and 1775, with a combination of Baroque flourishes, Neo-Classical elements, and revivals of 15th-century architecture: the steps are now prime spots to catch the sun’s setting rays. Just on the other side of the Corso is the Palazzo Ducezio, which fuses the local style with inspiration from French palaces to create an impressive facade with over 20 columns. If you’d like, make your way up the steep flight of steps beside the cathedral to reach a more peaceful area of Noto that has even more exceptional views over the countryside and towards the coast.

Otherwise, continue along the corso to Caffe Sicilia, the place to see and be seen. From 7 AM to midnight, Caffe Sicilia is the go to. In the morning, the obvious option is to start with granita–the lemon and the ricotta here is particularly good. Corrado Assenza’s philosophy for his sweets and cakes is to champion local producers and ingredients with an emphasis on quality and tradition. In the evening, the spot becomes one of the places for aperitivo.

For dinner, the elegant Ristorante Crocifisso, in the upper part of Noto, is a shrine to modernism. Signature dishes include a miniature chickpea flour burger and an egg cooked at 63 degrees celsius with black truffle. Particular kudos goes to the wine list that has some incredible vintages of local wines.

SCICLI

Thought to have derived its name from the Sicels, a tribe indigenous to Sicily prior to the Greek conquest, Scicli has a fascinating history. As it is one of the lesser known towns in the Val di Noto, Scicli has preserved more of its original character than somewhere like Noto. Also rebuilt in pure Baroque after the earthquake, the town sits within a striking gorge, with soaring rock faces either side, camouflaging the urban in the natural landscape. A zig-zagging walk up from the centre leads up to an area known as Chiafura, a rock face carved out with now-abandoned cave houses where some of the original residents lived before relocating to the town. (It is thought that in the next few years, more of these cave houses will be opened to the public and developed for tourism; it’s worth getting there while it’s still relatively undiscovered.) Back in the centre, the Via Penna is one of the town’s most charming streets and it is the place to go for an aperitivo to watch the locals go about their business.   

Superlative cannoli–perhaps some of the best in Sicily–come from a little shop on Via S. Bartolomeo, however. At Cannolia, the shells are fried to order, a rarity as the shells are usually pre-fried, and then are piped with your choice of ricotta filling. The filling is generous, the ricotta luscious, the shell crunchy. The “Pistacchio”, filled with pistachio ricotta and pistachio pieces, is not to be missed for lovers of the nut.

MARZAMEMI

The geographic outlier of the golden towns in the Val di Noto, this coastal town gets its reputation from its balmy setting along the crystalline waters at the south-eastern tip of Sicily. The main piazza of the town is particularly busy, with a sense of conviviality and hedonism, and is bordered by “rival” restaurants. Beyond the centre, there is a series of characterful streets with an array of boutiques. The traditional fishermen’s houses have been brightly painted in all manner of hues over the years, and so a meander through Marzamemi almost feels like entering into a sweet shop. Further exploration will bring you to hidden restaurants where front row tables look directly onto the lapping sea and corners where locals dry tomatoes on their sundrenched terraces. It’s impossible not to stop by the headquarters of anchovy retailer Campisi and pick up a few tins to take home.

Ristorante Campisi adjoins the shop and was set up to serve the company’s produce in the way they saw fit. It now offers some of the freshest fish in the region. Specialities include tuna and swordfish, and there’s an emphasis on raw dishes. The pretty blue tables look out to sea and catch the breeze. I can’t think of a better feeling than sitting here with a glass of chilled Grillo after a long day at the beach.

MODICA

Modica occupies a commanding position, its sand-coloured houses climbing up the slopes of a steep ravine. Here, roads network only a few parts of the town; instead, the best way to explore is by going up and down the staircases that make up the majority of Modica’s thoroughfares. But what distinguishes Modica from other towns in the Val di Noto is not its architecture but its chocolate, aptly named Cioccolato di Modica. This is a practice of confectionery that has become renowned beyond the local region and is recognised across Italy and beyond. Unlike most chocolate, which is conched or refined to give it a smooth texture, Modica chocolate has a grainy, almost crumbly texture because the chocolate is made using a cold-working process, which prevents the sugar from melting together with the cacao. The effect is similar to that of Mexican chocolate. Though this may seem like a cultural anomaly, the similarity is due to the Spanish domination of Sicily during the 16th century, which coincided with the Spanish conquests of Latin America. When this style of cacao arrived on Spanish shores, it was an immediate hit, and it’s not surprising that it was consequently exported to Sicily with the nobility who moved there. Of course, the Sicilian sweet tooth meant that sugar crept into the original recipe. 

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto is one of the best known producers and is rumoured to be the oldest chocolate shop in the region. It’s also where to head if you want to learn more about the chocolate-making process. Pick up a few bars from their charming shop–the ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, and mono-origin bars are all great choices–and, if it’s a bit chilly, the hot chocolate thickened with carob flour. 

For a “real” meal, head to one-Michelin-star Accursio, set within a beautiful palazzo in the heart of Modica. The philosophy of Accursio Craparo is to create elegant dishes that bring together the two halves of Sicily and their culinary traditions. With the reputation of “il cuoco delle due Sicilie” (“the chef of the two Sicilies”), Craparo creates dishes such as pasta with anchovies, tuna bottarga, and wild fennel and egg tagliatelle with pistachio cream–testimonies to his research into the flavours of Sicily. You can also get a taste of his cooking at his osteria Radici, an homage to home cooking and conviviality with more accessible prices.

 RAGUSA

Ragusa is divided into two parts: Ragusa Superiore, the new part, and Ragusa Ibla, the old town where the Sicilian Baroque style is on full display. Perched on a tiny hilltop surrounded by lush rolling hills, Ragusa Ibla is refined and elegant, its narrow cobblestone streets winding up towards the top. Once you get there, head to the beautiful, serene Giardino Ibleo, from which you can get a panoramic view of picturesque landscape. The drive to reach Ragusa, along the winding roads of the surrounding hillsides, is also really something special. 

The town is renowned for its gastronomy, in part because of its rich agricultural surroundings (lots of olive oil and cheeses are produced here, including the namesake salty, cow’s-milk Ragusano) and in part because of local chef Ciccio Sultano. Arguably the best known restaurant in Southern Sicily, two-Michelin-starred Duomo Ristorante serves haute cuisine designed to celebrate and educate about the region’s long cultural and agricultural history. Sultano derived inspiration from the namesake Duomo di San Giorgio, located steps from the restaurant. The tasting menu is the only way to go. For something more casual, check out his bakery and bistro I Banchi.

THE COUNTRYSIDE OF VAL DI NOTO: WHAT TO DO

Swim at the Vendicari Nature Reserve – There are a myriad of stunning beaches that hug the coastline, but the best ones are those in the nature reserve. A short walk through reeded pathways and salt flats where pink flamingos gather opens out onto idyllic beaches. For a long stretch of golden sand, head to the Vendicari beach next to the old Tonnara, or tuna fishery, that also has a mediaeval tower. Calamosche beach is the most family friendly on account of the curved bay that ensures calm crystalline waters. For a little more of a hedonist air, Marianelli beach is the least frequented and is favoured by naturists. 

Hike at the Riserva Naturale Cavagrande di Cassibile – Set off early to start this hike before the sun beats down too strongly. Descending down a steep gorge opens out to a series of fresh water ponds where crystal cool water trickles gently through. Rocks smoothed flat through the millenia make perfect sunbathing spots, while the trees that flank the banks offer perfect shade. The hike back up is a killer, but there’s a snack bar at the top as an incentive. 

Visit a Vineyard – The Val di Noto, despite its scorching temperatures, is fertile land for some of the island’s best known wines. The area around Avola has become associated with the juicy Nero d’Avola, and Moscato is also a particularly successful grape in this area. While the variety was formerly used just for sweet wine, it has more recently been incorporated with other local white varieties like Zibbibo. The proximity of the vineyards to the sea gives these wines a great salinity, and, when they are harvested early, the whites remain fresh and perfect drinking for long summer lunches. It’s worth taking an afternoon to visit a couple of vineyards to learn more about how the winemakers deal with the harsh climate to make some fascinating wines. Head to Planeta Buonvini for a refined experience from one of the area’s most renowned producers and then cross the road to Tenuta la Favola for a tasting at a historic family-run vineyard. Closer to Noto, Zisola Azienda Agricola offers great tastings accompanied by their homemade olive oil. Wine bar Enoteca Solaria in Ortigia is also a top spot to try natural wines from Sicily and the rest of Italy. 

WHERE TO STAY: HOMEBASES FOR EXPLORING THE AREA 

Seven Rooms Villadorata (Noto) – The most elegant residence in town, the former palazzo has eight bedrooms with high, frescoed ceilings and French windows that look out across Noto’s historic centre. 

Dimora delle Balze (Noto surroundings) – Just 30 minutes north of Noto, this converted masseria is a dreamy place set among 60 acres of citrus groves.

Donna Coraly (Noto surroundings) – Run by a wonderful mother and daughter, this chic hotel brims with style and features exceptional sunset views from its bar. It’s 30 minutes northeast of Noto. 

Casa Talia (Modica) – The creativity of two designers from Milan, this B&B merges the ancient structures of Modica with cool white interiors and colourful accents.

Hotel Gutowski (Ortigia) – Though a bit far from towns like Modica, Scicli, and Ragusa, this restored fishermens’ house in Ortigia is super charming and is a 40-minute drive from Noto.