The northeastern coast of Sardinia has long been known as a hotspot of the international jetset; a place where superyachts dock, the best-heeled rub shoulders, and dinner for one costs in the three figures. But there’s much more to this slice of Sardinia than glitz and glam–and to reduce it to just that would be to do this region a disservice. 

First and foremost, the northern end of Sardinia is naturally stunning. Majestic granite peaks and dramatic cliffs descend into the sea; you’ll find some of Italy’s clearest waters here. Those looking for secluded beaches will find many, as 55 km of coastline have been left untouched, as will those who prefer to take in the views from mountainous hiking trails. The Maddalena archipelago is just a hop, skip, and a jump away, and colorfully charming towns like San Pantaleo make peeling yourself away from the sea to explore inland worth it. 

Read on for how and where to live the low-key side of the coastline. Keep in mind that prices here will be relatively higher than elsewhere in Sardinia, but these are the spots worth dishing out a couple more euros for.  

WHERE TO EAT IN NORTHEASTERN SARDINIA

Trattoria Sperrittu – Inside this unassuming little beachside restaurant with white tablecloths, large open windows, and a homey atmosphere, the fresh seafood comes from the aforementioned crystal clear waters. The charm here is in the simplicity, as well as the overflowing platters of local clams, mussels, shrimp, sea urchins, fish, etc. Must Order: Bottarga pomodorini e vongole 

Ristorante Lu Stazzu – Dine on a vast veranda overlooking both Porto Rotondo’s bay and the port of Portisco at this family-owned staple. The cozy farmhouse vibe comes thanks to the open fire on which they roast the meats directly. Pair all their traditional Sardinian dishes with a hefty glass of the island’s famous red, Cannonau. Must Order: Gnocchetti sardi con salsa di pomodoro e salsiccia, ravioli di ricotta con salsa di pomodoro e basilico, culurgiones con burro e salvia, porchetta allo spiedo e salsiccia arrosto con patate arrosto, seadas con ricotta e miele sardo

da Giovannino – One of Porto Rotondo’s institutions, this historic, family-run trattoria feels like you could be dining on an upscale superyacht. Here, fresh fish is the order of the day, to enjoy with something off their well-curated wine list, and the homemade pasta, like the lime tagliatelle created by Anna Farina, the mother of the three owners, is a must.

Frades La Terrazza – Here, the most coveted seats are at the counter, from which you get sweeping views of the Gulf of Cala di Volpe. The sister to a Milanese restaurant, the trendy venue has excellent cuisine that alternates between Sardinian classics and more generic Mediterranean ones, and their island-inspired cocktails are not to be missed. 

Ristorante Il Portolano – You’ll need to book ahead for a terrace table at this beloved restaurant in Porto San Paolo for an incomparable sunset view over the island of Tavolara. Just steps from the sea, you can feel its salty presence in the breeze, on the menu, and in the entirely local wine list. Must Order: Tonno in crosta di pane carasau (crusted tuna)

The Coast – Beach Bar – Located on the shimmering Spiaggia Cala Granu, come here for a great day at the beach with an even better seaside lunch. Here, the flavorful dishes are as satisfying as the cocktails are fun. Although it’s near Porto Cervo, the beach is quite under the radar, and each table at the tiny restaurant overlooks the stunningly blue sea.  Must Order: Spaghetti vongole pachino e bottarga

Marco Grill & Bar – For the perfect no-frills beach day, head to this little hut in Porto Taverna adjacent to the quartz beach of Mari Ermi. Far from the glamorous expensive restaurants, you’ll eat on small wooden tables with your feet in the sand, dining on local creations by Chef Alessandro and overlooking the splendid island of Tavolara. Must Order: The fregola risotto, savory bottarga pâté, and their variation of escabeche

WHERE TO DRINK IN NORTHEASTERN SARDINIA

Pacifico Rosemary – Originally opened in 1969, this bar and restaurant has been a mainstay of wild times in Porto Cervo for over 40 years. Now transformed into a hip Peruvian restaurant, it’s still the spot for a good time. Dine outside under fig trees and fairy lights, sip on bubbly concoctions from the bar, and nibble on incredible raw fish and grilled items from their massive barbeque. It’s the best place to kick off your night. 

Ami – Right in the center of Porto Rotondo, this lively, young restaurant offers fresh, high-quality fish and some of the best tagliolini with clams and bottarga, which comes from a salt lake on the western side of the island. There are menu items for nearly every hour of the day, from morning eggs and acai bowls to evening crudo. Nearly every night, the bar brings out a DJ, and dinner becomes quite a memorable experience. 

Caffè Nina – In the lively, ancient, and tiny town of San Pantaleo, this caffè is a staple from morning until night, with espresso, sandwiches, small bites, a great wine list, and fun cocktails. Finish a perfect day exploring with a filling aperi-cena at this local-favorite, where owner Nicola’s hospitality is infectious.

WHAT TO DO & SEE IN NORTHEASTERN SARDINIA

Giants’ Grave of Coddu Vecchiu – These megalithic long-chamber graves certainly look like they’re for giants, but are actually massive public graves built by the Nuragic civilization during the Bronze Age. The existence and impressive size of these enigmatic stones also leads some researchers and journalists to believe they are the site, and main remnants, of the mysterious city of Atlantis. 

Capo Testa Rock Formations – Along this rugged granite coast, wind- and sea-blown rock formations seem to change in shape and appearance depending on where you look at them from. Once the site of an ancient Roman quarry, pockets of calm, turquoise pools tuck in and around the rocks, standing in juxtaposition to the massive conglomerations of weathered granite. 

Olivastri Millenari – With a height of 14 meters and a trunk circumference of 20 meters, this Patriarca Verde, or “Green Patriarch”, olive tree is estimated to be 3,800 years old, making it one of the oldest trees in Europe and on earth. Known in local dialect as S’Ozzastru, or “the wisdom of old age”, this older-than-Christ tree is a must visit for nature enthusiasts. 

Parrocchia Stella Maris – More than just a place of worship, this genuine masterpiece of architecture overlooks the Porto Cervo Marina from above and fits right into the island’s aesthetic with its rippling white lines and blue majolica in the cupola. Designed in the 60s by architect Michele Busiri Vici, the land on which the church stands was donated by Prince Karim Aga Khan, the man behind the “Costa Smeralda”.

La Cupola di Antonioni – In 1969, visionary architect Dante Bini was commissioned by director Michelangelo Antonioni to build a secretive summer residence for him and his then partner Monica Vitti. This three-dimensional space is covered by a concrete dome with an interior that opens to the sky. From afar, the space practically camouflages into the landscape, which was precisely Antonioni’s intent. Though it has fallen mostly into disarray, it’s worth a visit for a glimpse at all the secrets hidden behind the curvature.

San Pantaleo – Spend a day visiting this small, rustic town, set against a backdrop of granite mountains, that dates back to 800 AD. Expert artisans uphold the centuries-long traditions of working with ceramics, wood, and iron, and you’ll find one-of-a-kind pieces all over the town. 

Boat Day – Hop aboard your very own boat or dinghy and head to the 16-kilometer-squared island of Caprera, the emerald green beach on the island of Mortorio, or the 500-meter tall mountain on the island of Tavolara. Spend the day snorkeling, diving, and exploring the coves of these three isolated gems, breaking for lunch at the latter’s Da Tonino, where each dish of fresh seafood is paired with a sparkling sea view. 

WHERE TO SHOP IN NORTHEASTERN SARDINIA

Foresta g – Owned by a mother-daughter duo, this shop is filled with brilliant colors, natural fabrics, cozy blankets, hip shoes, and more, all curated according to the personal taste of Foresta and Laurence. They also design bright prints to make their own Indian kaftans and other similar items in silk and cotton. 

Yashu e Prem – This hotspot in San Pantaleo, masterminded by husband and wife team Prem and Yashu, features limited-edition, custom-made luxury pieces inspired by folk traditions and embroidery techniques from around the world. From their textiles and dresses to the jewelry and bags, everything has a delicate, feminine, and colorful style you’re unlikely to find elsewhere. 

WHERE TO STAY IN NORTHEASTERN SARDINIA

Aethos Sardinia – Nestled along a rolling hill on the blue coast, this luxury resort captures the vibe of this coast and offers the perfect base for both exploring and unwinding. Choose from two different room options and six types of suites and villas, many with a sea view, and spend your days here snorkeling the crystal clear waters of their private beach, lounging by their numerous pools, or dining at their premier on-site options. *Opening May 2024.