Though Florence may have invented gelato, it’s Milan (per usual) that has taken the stuff to the next level. As with the rest of the city’s culinary scene, gelato-makers here aren’t afraid to innovate, concocting daring flavors, sourcing ingredients lesser-known to Italy, and offering plenty of options for the intolerant–but this doesn’t mean that the city doesn’t carry superlative versions of the classics too. Here, seven of the best places in Milan for a cup or a cone, from a raw-forward gelateria to Gianni Agnelli’s scoopers of choice. 

Gelateria Paganelli

This artisanal gelateria, despite being but a short walk from Milano Centrale, is a firm neighborhood favorite. Founded in 1930 by Ugo Paganelli and now run by his grandson Francesco, Gelateria Paganelli changes its flavors daily, though you can expect the case to be lined with both traditional and innovative flavors. Among the former is a to-die-for crema, while the latter counts the likes of chili pistachio and “Principe”, the house specialty, composed of Venezuelan chocolate gelato flavored with coffee, star anise, and cardamom. Francesco also works to bring lesser-known fruit flavors to Italy–always starting with fresh fruit as the base–so if you see lucuma, native to the Andean valleys, make sure to order it. 

Out of the Box

They’re certainly thinking outside of the box at this gelateria with two locations–one on Via Malpighi and one on C.so Lodi–in the city. About half the menu is dedicated to raw, plant-based, and processed sugar-free flavors, with sweetness contributed by agave or coconut sugar, including gianduia raw, crudo fondente, and pistacchio integrale. It’s a must visit for those with any type of intolerance–did we mention the cones are gluten-free too? 

Pavè Gelati & Granite 

The Pavè name has done wonders for Milan’s bread and pastry scene, and it’s doing the same when it comes to gelato (and granita). Perhaps Milan’s most forward-looking gelato shop, Pavè Gelati & Granite has two locations–airy, minimalist spaces are a given–with plenty of unexpected tastes on offer. Salted white chocolate with lime, Quartirolo cheese and caramelized walnuts, banana with cacao beans are a few of the seasonally-changing flavors you might find, as are the likes of tarte tatin, bread and butter, and sbrisolona–flavors inspired by the pastries that are made at the multi-award-winning bakery of the same name. 

Il Massimo del Gelato

A bit past Chinatown, Il Massimo del Gelato is off-the-beaten-path but well worth the trek for its top-notch take(s) on chocolate. The shop’s 40 flavors are made fresh daily, and about 10 of those 40 are chocolate–think chocolate cherry, chocolate cinnamon, monorigin chocolates from Jamaica or Fiji, or cioccolati fondenti of varying percentages, even reaching 100%. Many do make the pilgrimage, so on busy summer days, you can expect a bit of a line. 

Gelateria Umberto

Save for a brief stint during WWII, this locals’ staple has been open continuously since 1934, founded by Umberto and now run by his grandson Stefano. Quality raw materials are the name of the game here: the fruit tastes like fruit, thanks to the use of fresh seasonal produce, and the crema is outstanding, thanks to a base of real egg custard. Legend has it that the stuff is so good that Gianni Agnelli would send a car from Turin to pick up Umberto’s ice cream for him on a regular basis. Other fans now include the mayor of Milan, Beppe Sala, and some notables from the city’s fashion scene–who fit in well with the recent restyling by architect Natalia Bianchi. 

Gelateria della Musica

A jazz musician turned gelataio opened this spot on Naviglio Grande, and, despite the career change, music has remained the founder’s first form of inspiration. All gelato flavors are named after a song, instrument, or musician, paying homage to the likes of Måneskin, Fabrizio de André, and Tracy Chapman. The one dedicated to Sergio Endrigo, pane burro e marmellata, is a can’t miss, as are the three to five pistachio variations offered each day. 

Gelateria Porta Romana

This gelato spot, with affordable prices, offers a tight menu of the classics in the (surprise surprise) Porta Romana district. We particularly love their selection of vegan flavors, which includes a first-rate pistacchio (that even non-vegans will appreciate). There’s great street art in the area around Gelateria Porta Romana, so grab a cone on-the-go and wander.