Fluffy, salty, and oily, focaccia might be one of Italy’s greatest culinary treasures. The real deal, focaccia genovese, is widely loved but often poorly imitated, even within Italy. It’s a simple bread, really–just flour, Ligurian extra virgin olive oil, yeast, sea salt, water, and malt extract–and nearly every bakery among Genova’s narrow carruggi makes the stuff. But the truly great slices–one where the imprints in the dough make luscious, almost creamy caverns but the outside is still crunchy and salty–have been known to cause biblical-level epiphanies. The difference between a good and an extraordinary focaccia is immeasurable, whether you’re snacking on an onion-topped piece for merenda or dipping a classic sliver in a cappuccino–the most common Genovese breakfast. So, here are the best places in Genova to get focaccia (fugassa in local dialect), brought to you by the Italy Segreta Team and our on-the-ground locals Gesu Antonio Baez and Cecilia Carbone.

Focaccia e Dintorni (Centro Storico) – Join the steady queue of people outside this tiny little focacceria from 7 AM to 8 PM. They’re one of the few who make fresh focaccia all day, which is something we’re quite thankful for since they’re undeniably one of the best. And while the focaccia rightfully gets all the attention, don’t overlook the other Genovese staples–like Genova-style pies, farinata, and meatloaf–or even the assortment of pastries, which are all excellent. 

Pan per Focaccia (Centro Storico) – Though it might look like any other bar or panificio from the outside, Gesu has boldly declared this to be his personal favorite focacceria–and for good reason. Open for 20 years, the spot has remained a favorite meeting point for Genovese locals to flirt, discuss politics, play scopa, or argue over the oily stuff. Amongst the classics, they also offer sandwiches on their focaccia and true Roman-style pizzas, which, may we remind you, are not just “topped focaccia”.

Zena Zuena (Carignano) – This Genovese institution combines two of our favorite things: focaccia and aperitivo. Not only do they make one of the best breads in the city, but here you can have an icy spritz or craft beer in one hand and a hot, salty slice of focaccia in the other. It’s a luxury–especially since most of the best focaccerias offer only take away, and you’re either munching while walking or risk it getting cold. Stop in anytime of the day–they also have an inventive lunch and dinner menu–or just stick to the classics. Their Focaccia di Recco, according to Gesu, “slaps.”

Panificio Mario (San Vincenzo) – Panificio Mario has focaccia that’s sinfully good and crunchy, and has been for the past 80 years. It certainly deserves a spot among the city’s best, and its proximity to Genova Brignole means we can always count on a great piece either pre- or post- train trip. Plus, you’re almost guaranteed to get a warm slice, since they restock the shelves all day. 

Antico Forno della Casana (Centro Storico) – Be prepared for an overwhelming selection of focaccia and savory pies–the torta di bietole is a must–and an even more overwhelming line of locals that you’ll have to forcefully elbow your way through to reach the counter. Once you do make it to the counter, know your order because the place moves fast, fast, fast. If you happen to arrive at the right time, you’ll see bakers off to the right prepping more fresh focaccia, poking holes in the soft dough and dousing it in bright green olive oil. 

Antico Forno Patrone (Centro Storico) – Tucked on the skinny Via Ravecca, this bakery dates back to 1920–making it one of the oldest focaccerias in the city–and it’s had a queue out front ever since it opened. When it comes to their focaccia, they’ve nailed the balance of crunchy, soft, and moist. Their sweet and savory Ligurian treats are not to be missed, along with their selection of breads, made with sourdough or other long leavening yeasts. 

Il Forno di San Nicola (Castelletto) – You’ve likely heard of this place through word of mouth, rather than guidebook mentions, but the little focacceria on Corso Firenze is where you can taste some real focaccia genovese. Soft and made with strictly Ligurian olive oil, their focaccia is everything we dream of.

Antico Forno Borgo Pila (Foce) – In a more residential neighborhood of the chaotic city, this historic panificio and pasticceria–with its cute cookie-letter font signage–makes “perfectly golden focaccia” according to Italy Segreta co-founder Marina Cacciapuoti. “Soft on the inside and not too crazy on the salt, the focaccia must be eaten immediately,” she says. Ok, twist our arms. 

Marinetta (Voltri) – Though this one is a bit farther, in the neighborhood of Voltri, the 1946-born, female-led focacceria is most certainly worth the trip. Their focaccia, renowned by even city-center Genovese, is surprisingly and impressively cheap, and you can purchase a whole square meter tray for around €10. We dare say they make the best onion focaccia in town–deeper in flavor than its counterparts as they use both the green and the whites of the onions.

Priano (Voltri) – You come to this family-run bakery, open since 1964, not for focaccia genovese, but for focaccia di Voltri, the thinner, crunchier version of its cousins. The ingredients are the same, but the dough is more hydrated, leavened on polenta-sprinkled shelves, and baked directly on the oven plate, senza pan. 

BONUS:

Revello (Camogli) – Though it’s not in Genova, this panificio in neighboring Camogli has been making baked goods since the early 1900s and is well-known for its light and fluffy focaccia and the invention of the camogliesi al rhum. Here we like to go for one of the topped focaccias, like the Mediterranean with black and green olives and oregano; the Ortolana with zucchini, onions, and oregano; or the San Fruttuoso, with anchovies, tomato, olives, and oregano. 

Fiordiponti (Santa Margherita Ligure) – Though also not in Genova this panificio in the town of Santa Margherita Ligure is worth the drive and the wait, their rosemary and sage focaccia are a must try but the og one is the best focaccia we’ve ever had.

Although this article is about focaccia genovese, we couldn’t help but mention two places to get its equally addictive counterpart, focaccia di recco col formaggio: Da O Vittorio and Panificio Moltedo dal 1874.