Our Favorite Winter Drink: Bombardino
What keeps us going on the slopes: il bombardino! A famous Italian mountain drink based on zabaione (egg cream), whipped cream and brandy. As the name suggests, this “bomb”, typically served hot and high in alcohol and sugar, makes sure one stays warm and in a great mood!

Our Favorite Winter Food: Canederli
After a long morning of skiing in the nippy mountain air, there’s nothing better than canederli, or what German speakers know as knödels, for an alpine lunch. Found in Italy’s northeast (though most common in Trentino-Alto Adige, they spot the menus of Friuli and Veneto), canederli are round bread dumplings–made with just stale bread moistened with milk, parsley, eggs and a bit of flour as binding. A staple of the region’s cucina povera, the dough is often enriched with cheese and smoky speck or stuffed with any variety of sweet and salty fillings. Although these dumplings can be served “dry”–with a healthy (and quite moist) dose of melted butter and cheese on top–we prefer them in a warming winter broth–perfect fodder for another black diamond or two.

Courtesy of Rifugio Fuciade
Our Favorite Off-Season Property: Passalacqua (Lake Como)
On our drive up north to visit the famous lake off season, we tossed around design ideas for our new home:
“Something more contemporary or victorian?”
“I don’t know, I want it to come together over time. I don’t want it to feel like a museum.”
“It can’t be a cluttered mess.”
We took a slight right turn, rang the bell and entered through Passalacqua’s gates; stepping out of the car and into the common areas, the answer was suddenly easy. We looked at each other in total agreement… “THIS is what we want!’”
Nestled on the scenic shores of Lake Como in the small town of Moltrasio, Villa Passalacqua is an extraordinary example of not only Renaissance-era architecture but how a historic family villa should be renovated in modern times: maintaining the soul of its past and incorporating that of its new owners. This luxurious boutique hotel, with its 24 uniquely decorated suites, Passalacqua somehow makes guests feel as though they are simultaneously living in one of Bellini’s operas (his music follows and embraces you in every room) and a yet-to-be-written episode of HBO’s White Lotus.
As you waltz through the frescoed rooms of the De Santis home, each with its own unique color scheme ranging from regal purples to 17th century pastel pinks, you can’t help but feel transported back to an era of grandeur. The light streams in through grand arched windows and reflects off the custom-made Barovier & Toso Murano chandeliers (to be found in nearly every room in the main villa). The 18th century prints and unique items collected by the De Santis family on their trips to Parma’s antique markets only add to the sense of history and refinement. It is no surprise that this was the place where Vincenzo Bellini found inspiration to write some of his most famous operas, such as I Puritani, La Sonnabula and Norma.
Meanwhile, the fun and colorful winter garden and pool area designed by JJ Martin, and the young and professional staff in their Giuliva Heritage-designed uniforms (“I NEED THEM ALL”) keep the air young and contemporary, subtly mixing the best of both worlds.
If only one could have those finely crafted fish-shaped silver room keys for just a little longer, could sleep in those luxurious Beltrami bed linens, bathe in the grand Devon & Devon bathtubs in marble bathrooms, lounge in the sun on yellow cushions on the stairs amidst an Italian garden and wake up to such a breathtaking view for a few more days… perhaps we would all have the inspiration we need to compose something as elaborate and magnificent as Bellini’s operas. Although we may not have the abilities, the inspiration would surely be there.



Our Favorite Winter Tradition: Fogolâr
As the cold winter months set in and we crank the temperatures on our thermostats higher and higher, Friulians turn to the comforting glow of the fogolâr, the heart of traditional households across the region. The indoor, hooded hearth, around which there are usually benches or stools to sit on, serves as both a place to take shelter from the frosty season and as a gathering place–to chit chit or to cook traditional Friulian soups, stews and roasted meats. The fogolâr is such a cornerstone of Friulian culture that it inspired the naming of the “Fogolârs Furlans”, an association for Friulian immigrants worldwide.
On the night of Christmas Eve, Friulians light the zòc–a large log typically made from beech, oak, or mulberry wood–in the fogolâr. The zòc must burn brightly until either the New Year or, if luck would have it, Epiphany, a sign of good fortune for the entire household. The leftover coals are carefully saved and used to reignite the fogolâr later in the winter as symbolic protection against impending bad weather.
There’s no other place we’d rather be than around the Friulian fogolâr during this frigid time–it seriously puts any fireplace to shame.

Fogolâr tradition in Friuli
Our Favorite Skiing Destination: Hotel Tyrol
There are certain individuals who are born with a natural gift for hospitality–the kind of charm and warmth that can’t be taught in even the best schools in Switzerland. Viviana and Maurizio, the owners of Hotel Tyrol in Selva di Val Gardena, are two such people. Their energy is infectious, and it’s clear that guests feel at home in their hotel.
Located in the stunning Dolomites, Hotel Tyrol is a true gem. The attention to detail in the decor and the cozy living areas–complete with wood, burgundy velvets and a vintage, orange Gaggia coffee machine at the bar–make it feel like a home away from home. But it’s not just the hotel that draws guests back year after year: the breathtaking slopes in the surrounding valleys are a major attraction as well.
If you’re looking for a ski destination that has it all–charming owners, a cozy atmosphere, and breathtaking scenery–look no further than Hotel Tyrol in Selva di Val Gardena. Between one slope and the other make sure to “refill” at the rifugi listed below:
Baita Emilio Comici – Seafood on the mountains…try it to believe it!
Rifugio Fienile – The steak is an absolute must.
Rifugio Punta Trieste – Order the RIBS! All of them (pork knuckles, Nebraska steak and deer)!
Baita Daniel Hütte – A typical restaurant for specialties such as canederli
Baita Ciampac – For Kaiserschmarrn, a traditional lightly sweetened pancake
Baita Curona — Don’t miss speck and sausages from the owners’ farm as well as their house dessert: the Krapfen with hazelnut cream.

Trentino-Alto Adige: one of 675 ski lifts that service the 2,000 kilometers of slopes