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The 5: Classic Italian Card Games

There’s no better way to while away a sunny afternoon

“For the sweltering afternoons in the Caribbean, it’s dominoes; for the salons peppered with playing tables in China, it’s mahjong; for us Italians, it culminates with cards.”

A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, jam, coffee on a rumpled white-sheeted hotel bed; visible hotel logos in soft light. A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, and berries sits on a white bed; Hotel d’Inghilterra Roma logo appears on the right.

To imagine an Italian summer is to imagine crashing coastlines, glassware dripping with condensation, post-gelato sticky fingers, ambling strolls through dusky streets. The iconography is unparalleled, as is the spirit of company shared during this time. There seems to be an inherent ease, laziness, tranquility to this time of year–and nothing, nothing, kills time like a table game.

Phones disregarded, circled shoulder-to-shoulder, a sort of excited yet expectant energy reverberates among players. For the sweltering afternoons in the Caribbean, it’s dominoes; for the salons peppered with playing tables in China, it’s mahjong; for us Italians, it culminates with cards. Sunday lunches with family quickly turn into languid afternoons of Scopa, which gets more and more heated as more and more bottles of wine are emptied. Septuagenarians huddle around shaky sidewalk tables in front of their local bar, playing round after round of Burraco, spurred on by afternoon espressos. You’d be hard pressed to find a circolo where there wasn’t a group of friends, smoking and dealing hand after hand. Cards are so much a part of life here that it feels hard to imagine what people would do with their time without these games (work maybe, but that feels like a downgrade option).

Whether in Italy or not, pour yourself some house wine, set up a table in the sun, and have a go at one of these absolute classics. 

DISCLAIMER: All of these card games have minor (yet, we understand that they can seem quite major!) variations across Italy. The rules and objectives are relatively similar, but don’t @ us if you play a different version than what is outlined below. Italy Segreta is not liable for any broken friendships, engagements, or families that result from playing these games.

SCOPA

The most iconic Italian card game of all, however, might just be Scopa. Those who grew up playing Scopa (namely, all Italians) will tell you that it’s an easy game. But hours of watching our non-Italian friends crumble in frustration have taught us that it is in fact a little complicated… So don’t feel bad if your first time playing Scopa has you a little bewildered. 

The game has been played in Italian taverns since at least the 15th century, and the objective is to sweep up all the cards–the word “scopa” translates to “broom” in Italian, referencing the clearing of cards from the table during gameplay.

Objective: To capture as many (valuable) cards as possible from the table by matching their values with cards in your hand.

Deck: A Neapolitan deck of 40 cards is traditionally used, but you can also use a standard card deck if you remove the 8s, 9s, and 10s (the play remains the same, though valued cards and suits are different; a quick search online will teach you the variations). The values of the cards are as follows: Ace (1); two through seven (face value); fante or Knave (8); cavallo or Knight (9); re or King (10). Each card belongs to one of four suits: coppe (cups), denari (coins), spade (swords), and bastoni (clubs).

Players: The game allows for 2 to 3 players or two teams made up of 2 or 3. 

Setup: Each player is dealt 3 cards, and 4 cards are placed face-up on the table. The remaining cards are left in a face down pile, and play starts with the player to the dealer’s right.

Game Play: On your turn, you must play a single card from your hand with the goal of capturing (valuable) cards, which are then removed from play. You can:

1. Capture a card from the table that has the same value as the one you’re playing.

2. Capture multiple cards from those on the table, if their sum is equal to the value of the card you are playing. (E.g. If you play a knight, worth 9 points, you could capture a 7 and 2, or a 5, 3, and Ace.

3. If there are no cards that you can capture, leave the card on the table.

If there are multiple possible plays and a card of exactly equal value is on the table, you are obliged to capture that card. (E.g. If you play a knight and the table is made up of a knight, a 7, and a 2, you must capture the knight.) If, during a single play, you clear all the cards from the table, you’ve completed a scopa and earn an extra point. 

When everyone has played their three cards, the dealer deals three new cards to each player, leaving any cards on the table as is. (Many, however, prefer the variation in which a new card is pulled from the deck after each play.) Play begins again with the player to the dealer’s right. 

The game continues until there are no more cards to deal. Any cards that remain on the table are taken by the player or team that made the last capture. The round is scored, the dealer rotates, and play begins again. The first to 11 points wins. 

Scoring: There are four points up for grabs during each round (see below), plus additional points made from any scopa

  • 1 point goes to the player or team that captures the most cards; if tied, neither gets the point. 
  • 1 point goes to the player or team that captures the most cards of coins; if tied, neither gets the point. 
  • 1 point goes to the player or team that captures the settebello (seven of coins)
  • 1 point goes to the player or team with the highest primiera. Most of us Italians make a rough calculation, giving the primiera to whichever player or team has captured three or more 7s. (If the 7s are tied, the player or team that has captured three or more 6s will win the primiera.) If you’re really Type A, the primeria is technically calculated by adding the values of the best card of each of the four suits. The values are as follows:
    • 7 = 21
    • 6 = 18
    • Ace = 16
    • 5 = 15
    • 4 = 14
    • 3 = 13
    • 2 = 12
    • Knave, Knight, and King = 10 

BRISCOLA

The history of Briscola traces its origins back to the 16th century, making it one of the country’s most enduring and beloved traditional games, after Scopa of course. The name “briscola” is derived from the Italian word brìscula, which means “trump” or “trump card”. The game’s charm lies in its simplicity, making it accessible to people of all ages, and a much gentler intro to Italian card games than Scopa.

Briscola’s popularity has led to its various regional adaptations, with different rules and variations emerging across Italy. Each region tends to have its own preferred rules and strategies, so it might look a little different depending on where you’re playing or who you’re playing with.

Objective: To score points by winning tricks and capturing valuable cards.

Players: Briscola can be played in two, three, four, or six. The latter two versions are played in teams. The rules that follow are for two-player Briscola, the baseline from which the other gameplays originate; search online for the other multiplayer variations. 

Deck: The game is designed to be played with the 40-card Italian deck, but most Italians, us included, play with a standard deck, having removed the 8s, 9s, and 10s. (For three-player Briscola, a single 2 is also removed, for a total of 39 cards.)

Card Values: Any cards not listed below have no point value. 

  • Ace = 11 points
  • Three = 10 points
  • King = 4 points
  • Queen = 3 points
  • Jack = 2 points

 

Dealing: 3 cards are dealt to each player. The dealer takes the next card (in the case of two-player Briscola, the seventh) and places it face up next to the pile of face-down, undealt cards. The suit of this card is this round’s Briscola suit, or trump suit, i.e. the suit which will win over any card of a different suit, card ranking notwithstanding. 

Gameplay: 

  • Play begins to the dealer’s right. 
  • Player A plays one of their 3 cards, face up. 
  • Player B wins or loses according to the following:
  1. If B plays a card with the same suit as A’s, the trick is won by the higher value card (keep in mind that this does not necessarily equate to higher rank).*
  2. If B plays a card with a different suit as A’s and not the Briscola suit, A wins the trick. 
  3. If B plays a card of the Briscola suit, B wins the trick.** 
  • At the end of each trick, cards are drawn, with the winner drawing the first card and the loser drawing the second. (When you get to the bottom of the draw pile, the loser of that trick takes the face-up Briscola card.) 
  • The player who won the trick starts the next trick. 
  • Play continues until all cards have been played. 

*Even if B has a card of the same suit in their hand, unlike some other card games, there is no obligation to play it.

**If both players played a card of the Briscola suit, rule 1 applies and the higher value card takes the trick.

Scoring Points: After all cards are played, players count the value of captured cards. The player with more points wins; some play more rounds until a predetermined point total, commonly 120, is reached. 

BURRACO

Burraco, also known as “Burraco Italiano” or “Burraco a due giocatori”, was born in Piedmont. The game likely emerged in the early 20th century, gaining popularity in private social spheres and households. Today, it’s still a paramount pastime for the elderly–and it can get feisty. We’ve seen neighborhoods torn down over cheating accusations. 

Burraco’s name is derived from the Italian word “buco“, which means “hole” or “gap”, referring to the strategy of creating sequences of cards with gaps that can be filled later. Burraco shares similarities with other card games like Rummy and Canasta, and it’s believed that these games influenced its development. It’s typically played with two teams and is often compared to Canasta for its melding mechanics and point system. As with most traditional card games, Burraco has regional variations within Italy, with different rules and local adaptations. 

Objective: To score points by forming melds (combinations) of cards and completing specific objectives.

Deck: Two international decks of 52 cards plus four jokers are used for a total of 108 cards. 

Players: There’s variations for different numbers of players, but the most traditional is four players divided into two teams. 

Setup: Players sit diagonally across from each other. If you’re playing in two teams, teammates must sit across from, not next to, each other. 

Card Value: Jokers are wildcards, and the 2 can be either a wildcard or (within a sequence) a natural 2 of their suit. The cards’ point system is as follows:

  • Joker = 30 points
  • 2 = 20 points
  • A (Ace) = 15 points
  • 8, 9, 10, J, Q, K = 10 points
  • 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 = 5 points

 

Dealing:

  • The first dealer is chosen by drawing cards from the shuffled pack: the player who draws the lowest card deals first. The cards rank from high to low: joker, 2, A, K, Q, J, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3. Suits rank: spades (high), hearts, diamonds, clubs (low). 
  • The opponent sitting to the right of the dealer attempts to cut exactly 22 cards off the top of the deck. If he has drawn less, he must take enough to make 22. If he has drawn too many, he puts the extra back.
  • This player makes two piles of 11 cards called pots (pozzetto) by alternately placing them face-down. The pozzetti are placed perpendicularly on top of each other in the form of a cross in the corner of the table. 
  • Meanwhile, the dealer uses the remaining cards in the deck to deal 11 cards to each player. 
  • The remaining deck is placed face down in the center of the table to form the stock. The dealer takes the top card from the stock and places it face-up to the side, which becomes the first card of the discard pile.

 

Melds:

  • The objective is to form melds, which consist of sequences (e.g., 4-5-6 of the same suit) and groups (e.g., three kings of any suit; repeated suits are allowed), which are placed face-up on the table.
  • A meld must have at least 3 cards.
  • There can only be one wildcard (a joker or a 2) in a meld. If a 2 is used in a sequence at face value, there can also be another 2 acting as a wildcard in the sequence. 
  • Once a meld with a wildcard has been placed, it is possible to replace the wildcard with the card it represents, moving the wildcard to the lower end of the sequence or keeping it within the set.
  • Aces may rank high or low, and more than one Ace can be played in a sequence. 
  • A meld that contains a wildcard is “dirty” (sporco), while a meld without any wildcards is “clean” (pulito). 
  • A meld of seven or more cards is called a burraco, and earns bonus points. A burraco is usually indicated by placing its last card crosswise if it’s dirty, or its last two cards crosswise if it’s clean.

 

Game Play:

  • The player to the dealer’s left begins, and play goes clockwise. 
  • On a player’s turn, they draw the top card from the face-down stockpile. Alternatively, they can also pick up the entire discard pile and add it to their hand. 
  • The player then can create a new meld or add to their own or their team’s melds (never to their opponents’ melds!), or both within one play. 
  • Their turn ends when they discard one card from their hand by placing it face-up in the discard pile.  
  • Some versions exist that require a certain amount of points before a meld can be made, but typically, there are no requirements to lay down a player’s first meld. 
  • The first player to run out of cards takes the top pozzetto of 11 cards to use as a new hand. The second pozzetto is taken by the next player (or if in teams, the first player of the other team) who runs out of cards.

 

Ending a Round: The play ends with one of two situations:

  • A player “closes”, which can occur only if:
    • The player has melded all but one card, which they discard (it cannot be a wildcard). A final discard is always required.
    • The team has taken its pozzetto
    • The team has melded at least one burraco
  • There are only two cards left in the stockpile.

 

Scoring: Players tally their scores for their melds and any bonuses earned, plus subtract any cards left in a player’s hand. If playing in teams, partners’ melds are combined to form a single team’s score. The winner is the player or team with more points.

  • Cards in melds on the table = add card value
  • Cards in players’ hands = subtract card value
  • Burraco pulito (clean meld of 7+ cards) = 200 points extra
  • Burraco sporco (7+ card meld including wild card) = 100 points extra
  • For going out (closing) = 100 points extra
  • A team that has not taken its pozzetto = minus 100 points

SCALA QUARANTA 

While not as ancient as some other traditional Italian card games, the rummy-type Scala Quaranta has still managed to find a significant place in Italian culture. The game’s name translates to “Forty Steps” and references how you have to meet a 40-point minimum with melds before you can truly begin playing. 

Scala Quaranta’s origins are not entirely clear, but it gained popularity in the late 19th and early 20th centuries in Italy. This game has quite a few variations. 

Objective: As with all rummy games, the goal is to collect sets of three or more matching cards and sequences of three or more suited cards by drawing and discarding. These combinations are laid down as melds. The winner is the player who closes the game by melding all but one of their cards and discarding the final card. The goal for those who don’t win the game is to have low-value cards in their hands, as one’s score comes from the values of the cards remaining in one’s hand. The objective is to have the least amount of points as possible.   

Deck: Two international decks–of 52 cards and two jokers–are used.

Card Values:

  • 2-10: face value
  • J, Q, K: 10 points
  • Ace: 11 points if used in a set of Aces or in a high sequence (QKA), or if it remains in a player’s hand; 1 point if used in a low sequence (A23)
  • Joker: 25 points if it remains in a player’s hand, or, when used in a meld, the value of the card it represents

 

Players: Can be played in 2 – 6 players. 

 

Melds: 

  • Sequences: 3 or more consecutive cards in the same suit
    • Aces can be used as the bottom of the sequence or the top of the sequence, but not both in the same meld.
    • The longest possible sequence is of 14 cards: the entire suit plus a joker at one or the other end. 
  •  Sets: 3 or 4 cards of the same rank.
    • A single set cannot contain a repeat of suits
  •  Jokers:
    • A set or sequence can include one, and no more than one, Joker. 
    • It must be declared exactly what card the Joker is substituting for, including the suit when used in a set. From this point on, the Joker cannot change value unless swapped with the exact card it’s substituting for.  

 

Dealing: 13 cards are dealt to each player. The remaining cards form the drawing pile, and the top card is turned face up and placed next to it to start the discard pile.  

 

Game Play:

  • Play begins to the dealer’s left. 
  • Each turn consists of the following:
    • Drawing a card*
    • Laying down a meld, adding to one on the table**, or replacing a Joker on the table with that of the exact value it represents**. The Joker can then be used in another meld or kept in the player’s hand for another round. A player is not obligated to make any of these moves. 
      • Players may add cards to any set or sequence on the table, regardless of who originally put it down.
    • Discarding a card***.  

 

*Drawing:

  • A card can be drawn either from the drawing pile or the discard pile. In the case of the latter, the card must be immediately used; it cannot remain in the player’s hand and it cannot be the player’s discard card. Drawing from the discard pile is only an option for players who have already opened.**

 

**Opening:

  • In order to open, you must put down new sets and/or sequences from your hand with a total value of at least 40 points. Until you have opened, you cannot add cards to existing melds, draw from the discard pile, or replace jokers. 

 

***Discarding and Ending the Game:

  • If you haven’t opened, you’re not allowed to discard a Joker or any card that could be used to extend an existing meld. 
  • You cannot discard a card just picked up from the discard pile, but you can discard one just picked up from the drawing pile. 
  • The game ends when a player closes their hand by discarding their final card. You can’t use all your cards in a final meld–you must have a final discard.

 

Scoring: Players count and score the total value of the cards remaining in their hands; the player who closed counts zero points (this is good). The rounds are cumulative, and a player whose score equals or exceeds 101 is out of the game, while the others continue to play. The last surviving player (i.e. the one with the lowest points) wins. 

TRESETTE

Tresette’s popularity can be attributed to its blend of strategy, skill, and teamwork. Players aim to capture specific combinations of cards to earn points and potentially win tricks. Poker faces are key here, as are nonverbal communication techniques with your partner. 

Though its exact origins may remain somewhat shrouded in mystery, Tresette’s enduring popularity is a testament to its charm and the cultural significance it holds–and to how much Italians love outsmarting their friends. 

Objective: To win tricks by capturing specific combinations of cards and earning points.

Deck: A traditional Italian deck of 40 cards is used. Cards are numbered 1 to 7 and face cards are A (Ace), Re (King), Cavallo (Knight), and Fante (Knave). Each card belongs to one of four suits: coppe (cups), denari (coins), spade (swords), and bastoni (clubs). 

Players: Played by four players in two teams, with partners seated opposite each other. Partners can be chosen ahead of time or assigned randomly by drawing four cards: the two highest cards form a pair, and the two lowest cards form the other. A variation for two players also exists. 

Setup:

  • Typically, players draw cards to determine the dealer; the person to draw the highest card goes first. 
  • The dealer shuffles and deals 10 cards to each player. In many versions, the dealer deals five cards at a time.
  • Turn to deal passes to the right after each hand.

 

Card Rankings and Values:

  • From high to low, the cards rank: 3, 2, Ace, Re (King), Cavallo (Knight), Fante (Knave), 7, 6, 5, 4. 
  • The cards’ point system is as follows: 
    • Ace = 1 point 
    • 2*, 3*, King, Knight, and Knave = 1/3 point 
    • 7, 6, 5, 4 = No points

*Although they have lower values, the 2 and 3 will outrank an Ace during a round. 

Gameplay: 

  • The player to the dealer’s right begins, and play is counterclockwise. Some versions exist where the first person to play is the one who holds the 4 of coins.
  • The first player plays a card of any suit and rank from their hand. Players must play the same suit if they can, otherwise, they can play any card. 
  • The highest card of the led suit wins the trick (remember, 3 and 2 are higher than A).
    • If a higher card is played but it’s of a different suit, it cannot win. 
  • The winner of a trick leads the next one.
  • Certain combinations of cards earn extra points if held in the hand of a player: 
    • Four 3’s, four 2’s, or four Aces = 4 points
    • Three 3’s, three 2’s, or three Aces = 3 points
    • Napoletana (3, 2, and Ace of the same suit) = 3 points
    • A player with any of these combinations must declare it at the end of the first trick, and scores for it immediately. (The combination is still valid even if you played one of the cards during the first trick.)
    • If you declare a Napoletana, you have to specify which suit. 
    • If you have three of a kind, you have to say which suit is missing. 
      • You can declare both a Napoletana and another combination: i.e. a Napoletana in coins and four 2’s, for a total of 7 points. 

 

Ending a Round: Once all 10 tricks have been played, the round is over and points are tallied. 

Scoring:

  • Each side adds together the values of all the cards captured, plus any extra points for card combinations.
  • The team who won the last trick also receives an extra point.
  • The total points available per round is 11 and 2/3, but if you end up with a total that has a fraction, your score is rounded down to the nearest whole number. 

 

Ending the Game: The first side to reach 21 points (3×7, like the name of the game) wins. This will take a few rounds. 

Strategy: 

  • Basic strategy involves collecting as many Aces as possible. 
  • Players typically attempt to “strip” their opponent of the 3 and 2 in the suit of which they hold an Ace in order to play the Ace “safely”. You can do this by playing lower cards of the same suit. 
  • Since winning the last trick also scores you an extra point, players organize their cards towards the end of the round accordingly.
  • Players must work with their partners to capture combinations that maximize points. No talking during the game is allowed, however, at the beginning of each play, the first player is allowed to make certain remarks or signals: 
    • Busso (“I knock”): indicates that you want your partner to play their highest card in the suit in play, and if it wins, start the next round with the same suit. Instead of saying it, you can strike the table or card with your fist. (If you have a high card in a suit, this allows you to check if your partner has the other high card, without risking playing both cards on the same trick.)
    • Volo (“I fly”) (or piombo–“I fall”): indicates that you just played your last card of the suit. Instead of saying it, you can toss the card so it glides down onto the table. 
    • Striscio or liscio (“I stroke” or “I smooth”): indicates that you have many cards of the same suit of the card you are leading with. Instead of saying it, you can also slide the card onto the table.