Meticulous lines of striped umbrellas are about as inextricable from the iconography of Italian summer as Aperol spritzes and speedo-clad kiddos. It’s bagni we can thank for this iconic imagery–as well as for the most accessible beachfront luxury Italy has to offer. For the uninitiated, these bathing establishments offer sunbeds, umbrellas, and chairs for rent, and often showers, changing rooms, bars, and restaurants too, with the likes of prosciutto e melone and caprese–the summer classics. Sure, there are the ritzy bagni on, say, Capri or the coast of Forte dei Marmi that can run you upwards of 100 plus euros a day, but what we love most about bagni is that they are little luxuries. Almost anywhere along the coast, you can find a day of shade and food and sand and sea for often as little as 12 euros. While others around the world pack for the beach with rickety umbrellas and kilos of pasta salad that will only get sand in it anyway, we head to the bagni backpack free. It’s a godsend considering all this equipment wouldn’t fit into the trunks of our 500s anyway–especially since one of our favorite ways to explore the bagni on offer in Italy is a good ole’ road trip, cruising down the coast and stopping at whichever candy-striped umbrellas strike our fancy. This summer, Dondup is doing the same, sending its vintage Volkswagen T2 bus named Caronte–which luckily has some more room in the boot!–from Marche, Dondup’s homebase, through Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, southern Italy and the islands, before heading up to the Alps–a jealousy-inducing itinerary.
Here, 15 of the best bagni to not only drive, but hike, sail, and bike to this summer:
Il Frontone (Isola di Ponza, Lazio)
We love adventurous hikes to secluded coves about as much as we love bagni, but (sadly!) the two tend to be mutually exclusive. This isn’t the case, however, with Il Frontone on the Pontine island of Ponza. Twenty to thirty minutes along a scenic path through lush vegetation–with spectacular views of the sea, of course–gets you to the intimate bagno, where you can rent sunbeds, deckchairs, and umbrellas. (You can also reach the bagno via a small boat from the Ponza harbor–the round trip fare is €7–though pay particular attention to the departure and return times so as not to be stuck with the hike on the way back.)
Hotel Excelsior (Lido, Veneto)
One of the most luxurious options on this list, the bagno of the Hotel Excelsior–a longtime symbol of Venetian splendor and host to the Venice Film Festival–offers 1,300 cabanas on the famous beach where Aristotle Onassis first met Maria Callas. (We wouldn’t be surprised if you too found a marriageable billionaire here!) The elegant huts and cabanas of this five-star establishment are just steps from the sea, with a prime spot on one of the most beautiful beaches in Italy: you can expect golden sand, emerald waters, and a staff that will pamper you from dawn to dusk.
Calanova (Isola d’Elba, Tuscany)
On the eastern side of Capoliveri, an extraordinarily beautiful corner of Elba, Calanova is a great off-the-beaten-path choice with a view of the Spanish Forte Focardo and the Porto Azzurro coastline. Maritime pines and cork oaks spill onto the beach, where you can find transparent waters, straw umbrellas, wooden sunbeds, and family-style service–not to mention a great seafood restaurant. The services, outdoor shower, bar, and restaurant are accessed by a small wooden footbridge from the beach. It’s not too easy to access by land, so it’s a favorite of yachtsmen for the small dock, available for mooring with tenders and small boats. All in all, the vibe is deserted island, but with more comforts than the Crusoes could’ve ever imagined.
Club Scannella (Ischia, Campania)
A 20-minute walk (that includes some steep stairs) from the town of Panza or a 15-minute boat ride from the village of Sant’Angelo, the Scannella beach club has no phone service–a fact that we seriously love. The lido, little known outside islander circles due to its remote location, rests on a jagged coastline of lava blocks on the rocky and wild southern coast of the island, framed by a stretch of blue water that’s among the clearest in the Mediterranean–a great place for some wildlife spotting too. Scannella is also a hotel, and, as a guest of the bagno, you can swim in the three pools (one of which has a whirlpool), eat at the restaurant with a view, or get a massage.
Eco del Mare (Lerici, Liguria)
This small cove in the Gulf of Poets–so called because it was beloved by the likes of Lord Byron, Gabriele D’annunzio, and Mary Shelley–has a specific geographical structure that allows the sound of the sea to echo across its rocks. In the 1950s, François and Nicoletta Mozer fell in love with the spot and opened this splendid lido, whose name literally means “echo of the sea”. Natural colors and classic Mediterranean dishes, served at the restaurant or to your umbrella, are hallmarks of the spot, which rests 60 meters below street level. Upon request, a beachside, candlelit dinner under the starry sky can be organized.
Pettolecchia Il Lido (Savelletri, Puglia)
Between the white walls of masserias and stone walls curbing centuries-old olive trees lies Masseria Pettolecchia lido: single or king-size sunbeds and spacious shade provided by elegant gazebos, complete with beach towels from the finest white cotton. Three wooden platforms and a little staircase provide direct access to the emerald sea; there’s no sand, which means you won’t get the stuff in your bag, hair, car… and everywhere else you don’t want it. The club’s restaurant serves km0 Puglian cuisine (with fantastic fresh fish!), and the Cantina boasts a large number of fine labels.
Bagni Fiore (Paraggi, Liguria)
The crescent-shaped bay of Paraggi is known for its crystal blue waters, lush verdant cliffs, and Bagni Fiore, a beachfront club and restaurant with turquoise loungers and umbrellas–a color that gives the spot a charming, vintage feel. For those seeking an adventurous afternoon, Bagni Fiore offers a myriad of water sports, including snorkeling, kayaking, and paddleboarding. And if all that activity works up an appetite, the restaurant has a great, seafood-forward menu.
Tigu Beach (Sestri Levante, Liguria)
In a verdant bay with a backdrop of colorful houses, typical of Ligurian fishing villages, is this historic, family-run establishment. An homage to the French style of the 1940s, Tigu’s furnishings are reminiscent of the old bistros of Paris, while the green tones recall the city’s patisseries. Two restaurants–one serving Mediterranean cuisine and a smaller, Japanese-style restaurant curated by the Milanese Kisen group–are set up in the evening “pieds dans l’eau”. Both are magnifiques!
Insula Beach Club (Menfi, Sicily)
On the pristine shores of Menfi, Insula Beach Club stands where reddish sands meet the turquoise waters of Lido Fiori. A firm commitment to sustainability is a trademark of the Planeta world, and wine resort La Foresteria and the Insula Beach Club are no different. Here, Mediterranean elegance intertwines seamlessly with artisanal craftsmanship, showcased through handcrafted furnishings from Moroccan cooperatives and Italian artisans. The open kitchen, run by chef Angelo Pumilia, is a particularly fun addition. Reservations are required.
MOR Beach Club (Lake Como, Lombardy)
At the site of the now-defunct, historic Lido Cadenabbia, MOR’s panoramic views of Bellagio can be had from the restaurant, private beach, terrace, or outdoor swimming pool. Innovative, sophisticated, and summery, MOR was designed by Milan-based architecture studio De.Tales and will have you questioning whether the sea really is the right choice for summer vacation. Under the creative direction of Israeli chef Sharon Cohen–owner of Shila, one of Tel Aviv’s most renowned restaurants–the “Middleterranean” menu is topnotch and pairs perfectly with the cocktail offerings, devised by mixology expert Emanuele Broccatelli, and sweets by renowned pastry-chef Fabrizio Fiorani.
La Tonnarella O’ Bacchiss (Conca dei Marini, Campania)
This no-frills, old-school joint in a small, scenic bay doesn’t get too crowded–and that’s something hard to find these days along this stretch of coastline near Amalfi. The food is some of the best we’ve had at a bagno, with some great prices to boot, and you can’t miss ordering the gamberetti sale e pepe, the marinated anchovies, i moscardini fritti, and paccheri with scorpionfish–accompanied by wine and peaches of course. Here, you eat on plastic chairs on the beach: there are no reservations, but, if you’re patient, you can always snag a table. The best way to reach the hidden spot is by boat, though you can also hike down from the road.
Bagno delle Donne (Talamone, Tuscany)
Until the 1950s, the beaches in this area were separated by gender–single women on one side, single men on the other. The stretch of sea between the two, which rocks modestly separated, was where people could “secretly” meet and is still called the “living room” by the villagers. Bagno delle Donne (literally “the women’s bagno”) takes its name from this history, though the establishment, in the heart of the Maremma Natural Park, is now open to all, regardless of gender identity. Striped parasols in a curved rocky inlet, crystal clear waters, and a bar and bistro round out the picture.
Il Riccio Beach Club (Capri, Campania)
Perched high above the sea on one of Capri’s rocky slopes, Il Riccio Beach Club is a contemporary spot with panoramic views of the Mediterranean blues. Venture from your plush sunbed down a zigzagging ladder to the sea, before dining at the Michelin-starred restaurant–the Spaghetti ai Ricci di Mare is a must. You also can’t miss the cobalt blue kitchen with a dessert buffet, known as the Temptation Room, where you can try a smorgasbord of pastries, lemon cakes, cannoli, ice cream, and more or less every dessert imaginable.
La Dogana (Capalbio, Tuscany)
On a strip of sand near the WWF Oasis, surrounded by dunes and Mediterranean scrub, La Dogana maintains a simple style that is well suited to the wild panorama of Maremma. (Head to the WWF Oasis to spot flamingoes and gray herons!) Light tones and wood and wicker details contrast with the famously fiery sunsets, best watched from La Dogana’s bistro bar.
Bagno America (Forte dei Marmi, Tuscany)
In the Roma Imperiale neighborhood of Forte is the elegant, exclusive Bagno America–family run since the 70s–with its iconic green umbrellas. A favorite of the Maestrelli family of Villa Roma Imperiale, a charming family-run boutique hotel, Bagno America’s elegant simplicity makes it a no-brainer in this oft-overrun stretch of coastline.
