This rich, creamy sauce translates to “the girl from Genoa”, but it really has nothing to do with Liguria’s capital. It actually hails from Naples, where the tomato-less recipe stands apart from the city’s usual culinary canon. The fine cuts of beef and the onions place this dish’s history among the ranks of the nobility, and while the recipe does call attention to a form of lasagna with bianco ragu from Genoa, its origins are unknown.
This recipe comes from trattoria Mimi Alla Ferrovia, a Neapolitan staple since 1943. Here, the owner and his son chef Salvatore Giugliano (known as Sasà) will welcome you as if you were old friends. Their secret is slow, slow cooking and a mountain of thinly sliced Ramata Di Montoro Onion, but if you can’t find that, yellow onions will suffice. Serve the sauce as they do–atop ziti or candele, with a few basil leaves and finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano.
SUGO ALLA GENOVESE
INGREDIENTS
- 250 gr beef muscle
- 250 gr beef cheek
- 250 gr beef ribs
- 100 gr guanciale, finely diced
- 3 kg of Ramata Di Montoro Onion, thinly sliced
- 1/2 teaspoon tomato paste
- 1 stalk of celery, finely diced
- 350 gr carrots, finely diced
- Dry white wine
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Salt, to taste
PREPARATION
- Place a large pot over high heat. Cover the bottom with olive oil and add all three cuts of beef. Quickly sear so they “seal” in their moisture, which they will release later.
- Once seared on all sides, add the guanciale and brown.
- Deglaze with a white wine.
- Lower to medium-high heat and add the onions, 2 kg at a time, so they blanch first and then caramelize.
- Once all the onions are added, stir in the tomato paste, the mirepoix of carrots and celery, and salt.
- Sautè until the onions release some liquid.
- Then add a bit of water and bring to a boil.
- Cover with baking paper and let cook for about 6 hours, stirring occasionally to ensure nothing sticks.
- Serve on top of ziti or candele.
