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A Local’s Guide to Sicily: Eastern Sicily and Catania

Part II

Whether you’ve followed Part I of our itinerary and are now halfway through your trip, or you’re starting off here, welcome! There is no such thing as seeing it all in Sicily – the landscape is vast and varied, its architecture and customs change from area to area, and the food…oh the food, is endless and each city has its forte, from arancini to granita

 

In Eastern Sicily, get ready to be mesmerized by the beauty of Baroque towns; gorge on busiate pasta; treat yourself with almond cookies, pistachio granita, and cassata; marvel at the views from the summit of Mt. Etna; eat fresh seafood right from the source; and lose control of all your inhibitions through a fatal mix of volcanic wine and excessive beauty.

 

GETTING AROUND

Since much of Sicily’s beauty is rural, a car is probably the easiest way to navigate the island. The best advice we can give you is to take a road trip through the Iblean countryside and stop by the famous Baroque towns of Ragusa, Noto, Modica and Scicli–recognized by UNESCO as  World Heritage Sites. Otherwise, there are train stations in Catania, Siracusa, Ragusa, Modica, Noto, and Scicli. Some local bus routes or private tour options may be available between smaller towns –  be sure to check before you plan your trip!

A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, jam, coffee on a rumpled white-sheeted hotel bed; visible hotel logos in soft light. A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, and berries sits on a white bed; Hotel d’Inghilterra Roma logo appears on the right.

SICILIA SUD ORIENTALE (Siracusa/Ragusa)

The golden triangle of Sicilian Baroque–between the provinces of Catania, Ragusa and Syracuse–attracts many travelers thanks to its crystal clear sea, fine sand beaches and unique inland landscape. Worth a detour into the countryside is Palazzolo Acreide, a small Baroque town with Greek roots and a great traditional mountain cuisine.

 

SLEEP 

A.D. 1768 – Piazza Duomo (Ragusa Ibla) – An ancient Baroque residence in the heart of Ragusa, transformed into a boutique hotel and furnished with designer pieces. 

Seven Rooms Villa Dorata (Noto) – In the historic center of Noto, inside Palazzo Nicolaci, a nineteenth century palace, resides an extravagant and elegant boutique hotel overlooking the roofs of Noto. 

Riofavara Relais (Ispica) –  A small and sophisticated wine resort within the Riofavara winery, in the heart of the Val di Noto wine route.

Baglio Occhipinti (Vittoria) – An authentic 19th century residence among centuries-old olive groves and the DOCG vineyards of Cerasuolo di Vittoria.

Casa Talia (Modica) – Casa Talia is a seven-room B&B that demonstrates exquisite taste–modern and stylish but at the same time laid-back and strongly tied to the territory–and a beyond gorgeous view.  

Cammarana Estate – A historic home in the heart of the Hyblean countryside, near Donnafugata Castle, amid white stone dry-stone walls and small Mediterranean gardens. The 9 rooms feature the comforts of modernity while respecting the original 18th-century layout. 

The San Corrado di Noto – Once the summer residence of Prince Nicolaci, today, thanks to the recovery of architects Corrado Papa and Simone Paoletti, Il San Corrado di Noto is a refined green resort nestled among carob and almond groves. Light is reflected in the typical white stone of Modica and dialogues in harmony with works by local artists, such as Sergio Fiorentino’s paintings, thus creating a relais of contemporary luxury.

Country House Villadorata (Noto) – A rural spin off of Seven Rooms Villadorata, in the historic center of Noto, this 8-room Luxury Resort is converted from a 19th-century millstone, once used for oil production and now dedicated to those who wish to spend a stay in a true oasis of peace. Completing the travel experience is the W Villadorata Country Restaurant by star chef Viviana Varese.

Battimandorlo (Noto) – A small and intimate country house, once a farm, in the countryside of Noto: at Battimandorlo only 5 rooms with a simple design thanks to the delicate hand of local artisans and salvaged furniture.

 

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT

Duomo (Ragusa Ibla)- Unmissable stop for true gourmets: chef Ciccio Sultano’s dishes are pure magic – well worthy of his two Michelin stars.

Ristorante Crocifisso (Noto) – Chef Marco Baglieri’s cuisine is a modern expression of this corner of Sicily

Caffe Sicilia (Noto) – The master of arts and crafts, Corrado Assenza, now a worldwide “celebrity” makes arguably the best Sicilian granitas and Avola almond biscuits.

Andrea Sapori Montani (Palazzolo Acreide) – An excellent restaurant to try the dishes of the Iblei mountain tradition, centring on sausages and truffles. 

I Rizzari (Brucoli) – Fish is the main protagonist of this typical restaurant where you eat right by the sea 

Cortile Arabo (Marzamemi) – A seaside tavern in the heart of the old fishing village of Marzamemi, with excellent fish dishes prepared by chef Massimo Giaquinta. 

Gli orti di San Giorgio (Modica) – Thanks to Simone Sabaini’s restoration work, this once abandoned place has been revived as a public space for exhibitions, concerts, cultural activities and the Sabadì Bar (the best chocolate in Modica).

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto (Modica) – A passion project of six generations of artisan confectioners with a love for Sicily: do not miss the ‘Mpanatigghi, the Modica biscuit par excellence, produced with an ancient recipe that combines chocolate and beef sirloin.

Scjabica (Punta Secca) – Joseph Micieli, with his perpetually tanned face and Mediterranean tattoos peeking out on his arms from the rolled-up sleeves of his jacket, is a young and talented fisherman and chef. His 2 restaurants are located on the beach of Punta Secca, an enchanting and charming seaside resort in the territory of Santa Croce Camerina, in the province of Ragusa.

Cannolia (Scicli) – A new and delicious reality entirely dedicated to cannoli, one of the most famous Sicilian desserts in the world. The dough is instantly fried, filled with cream and then served hot and crunchy. In addition to the original one made with cow’s milk ricotta, there are six other variations for you to choose from.

 

WHAT YOU CAN’T MISS

Vendicari nature reserve

Greek theater of Siracusa and archaeological park of Neapolis

The late Baroque towns of Modica, Noto, Palazzolo Acreide, Ragusa Ibla and Scicli

The Necropolis of Pantalica

Excursion in the uncontaminated nature of the Neviere di Buccheri

Archaeological site of Kamarina

Ragusa

CATANIA

Dynamic, young, and Baroque, welcome to Catania (called the Milan of the South). Sicily’s second largest city lies on the Ionian Sea, under the shadow of Mount Etna. A city that has “died” and resurrected more than once; a city built on lava with an ashy appearance but a very vibrant and colorful soul.

 

SLEEP

Asmundo di Gisira (Catania) – Nestled between the Cathedral, the spectacular Baroque churches and ‘a Piscaria, the famous Catania fish market, Asmundo di Gisira is an exclusive and unique stay with great attention to detail. 

Monaci delle Terre Nere (Zafferana Etnea) – A country boutique hotel that preserves the historical identity of what was once the home of the monks of the order of St. Anna.

Zash (Giarre Riposto) – A place to be enveloped by the magic of the volcano. The architectural design saw the recovery of an old country house without affecting its historical identity. A total of 17 rooms, including the spectacular Pool Villa suites, separated from the main building and equipped with a private room-temperature bathtub and double panoramic views, Etna on one side and the Ionian Sea on the other. Ideal for a romantic getaway for couples: during the day you are pampered by the services offered by the spa, including the indoor pool made of lava stone, while in the evening at the 1-Michelin-starred restaurant carved out of the old palmento you can try the gourmet creations of chef Giuseppe Raciti.

Shalai (Linguaglossa) – A small and charming hotel with 13 rooms in a late 19th century building in Linguaglossa. The spa and the excellent 1 Michelin star restaurant of chef Giuseppe Santoro are reason enough to book a stay. 

Donna Carmela Resort & Lodges (Catania) – With its state-of-the-art lodges, the resort of the Faro family – pioneering entrepreneurs in the Italian floricultural sector – represents a true unicum in the panorama of Sicilian hôtellerie: 8 small jewels of green buildings, immersed in a lush garden of Mediterranean and subtropical plants, tastefully furnished and equipped with all comforts, including a private pool for a stay of the utmost privacy. 

Dimora Cottanera – A new venture for the historic Etna wine brand, which inaugurates Dimora Cottanera: 13 rooms, overlooking the rows of vines, distributed between the main body of the Cambria family’s country house and what were once the farm’s hazelnut warehouses. Each room is unique in color and form, with original furniture and minimalist-designed natural stone coverings worked by master craftsmen.

 

WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT

Materia Spazio Cucina (Catania) – The new, convivial space inside Habitat Hotel recounts an authentic Sicily and does so through Bianca Celano’s recipes: the Catania chef uses only raw materials from small artisanal producers personally scouted around the island. Materia Spazio Cucina is, without a doubt, the most interesting gastronomic novelty in the city in recent years.

Me Cumpari Turiddu (Catania) – In this delightful downtown eatery, among wooden tables and crystal chandeliers, you will find an excellent proposal of typical dishes based on products from the Sicilian Slow Food Presidia. It is one of the very few restaurants to source fruit and vegetables from its own garden. There are many specialties to try, such as the drowned octopus with herb-flavored potato.

Km.0 Restaurant (Catania) – Brothers Fabio and Marco Cannizzaro wanted to create an intimate and cozy place of only 25 seats to welcome and pamper their guests. It is best for those who want to experience innovative Sicilian cuisine. The wine list is remarkable, with 600 labels, the result of incessant research and curiosity. 

La Cucina dei Colori (Catania) – This vegetarian and vegan restaurant takes great care with every ingredient that enters the kitchen, thanks to the direct relationship with local farmers and suppliers. At lunch you serve yourself directly at the counter, at dinner you choose from the menu instead.

Mm Trattoria (Catania) – A seafood restaurant in the heart of the Pescheria market, loved both by locals and tourists. The raw fish appetizers are delicious. 

Uzeta Bistrò Siciliano (Catania) – Lounge bar with a Siculo-contemporary atmosphere, especially loved by connoisseurs for both the cuisine and the selection of signature wines and cocktails. Don’t miss the arancino, prepared with frayed meat as it was made in ancient times.

Scirocco Sicilian Fish Lab (Catania) – Overlooking the Pescheria di Catania, this place offers great seafood street food. Their hot octopus, cut on sight, is a must. 

Pasticceria Savia (Catania) – A historic pastry shop in Catania. Here you will find legendary arancini (and other local delicacies), typical sweets (cassata, cannoli, paste di mandorle) and unmissable granitas, to be ordered with a brioche con il tuppo, Catania’s summer breakfast par excellence

Pasticceria Santo Musumeci (Randazzo) – The granita by Giovanna Musumeci, daughter of the master gelato maker Santo, is undoubtedly one of the best in all of Sicily. Try the strawberry, pistachio, and peach.

Pasticceria Russo (Santa Venerina) – This historic workshop is a little bakery paradise. At the entrance is a piece of furniture from an old apothecary’s shop where delicious homemade pastries are displayed in the window.

Cave Ox (Solicchiata) – Among the best trattorias in the Etna area, Cave Ox is the ideal place to taste dishes and wines of the Etna tradition. Pizzas with selected flours and yeast are also great!

Il Buongustaio (Randazzo) – Better known as “Da Pippo”, this wine shop in the medieval village of Randazzo stocks some of the best wines of Etna, to try accompanied by a platter of local cheeses and cured meats.

Dai Pennisi (Linguaglossa)  – A butcher shop with a kitchen where you can enjoy typical Etna dishes and the famous “salsiccia al ceppo,” a Slow Food Presidium.

 

WHAT YOU CAN’T MISS

Monastero dei Benedettini (Catania)

Pescheria of Catania

Badia of Sant’Agata Church – and the panoramic view from its cupola (Catania)

Teatro Romano and Odeon (Catania)

Palazzo Biscari (Catania) 

Trenino dei vini dell’Etna

Excursion to the summit of Mt. Etna.

 

WINERIES

Benanti (Catania)

Cottanera – Castiglione di Sicilia (Catania)

Pietradolce – Solicchiata (Catania)

I Vigneri di Salvo Foti – Milo (Catania)

Photography by Gina Spinelli

Photography by Gina Spinelli

Monaci delle Terre Nere

Elegant restaurant interior with blue walls, vintage mirrors, posters, white-tableclothed tables, and a bar visible through an open doorway. Elegant restaurant with blue walls, gold mirrors, red chairs, white tablecloths; posters and logos visible. Stylish adjoining room.

A.D. 1768

Seven Rooms Villa Dorata

Riofavara Relais

Baglio Occhipinti

Casa Talia

Tenuta Cammarana

Il San Corrado di Noto

Country House Villadorata

Battimandorlo

Duomo Ristorante

Ristorante Crocifisso

Caffe Sicilia

Andrea Sapori Montani

I Rizzari

Cortile Arabo

Gli orti di San Giorgio

Antica Dolceria Bonajuto

Scjabica

Cannolia

Vendicari nature reserve

Greek theater of Siracusa

Archaeological park of Neapolis

Modica

Noto

Palazzolo Acreide

Ragusa Ibla

Scicli

Necropolis of Pantalica

Kamarina Regional Archaeological Site

Asmundo di Gisira

Monaci delle Terre Nere

Zash

Shalai

Donna Carmela Resort & Lodges

Dimora Cottanera

Materia Spazio Cucina

Me Cumpari Turiddu

Ristorante Km.0

La Cucina dei Colori

Mm Trattoria

Scirocco Sicilian Fish Lab

Uzeta Bistrò Siciliano

Pasticceria Savia

Pasticceria Santo Musumeci

Pasticceria Russo

Cave Ox

Il Buongustaio

Dai Pennisi

Monastero dei Benedettini

Pescheria of Catania

Badia of Sant’Agata Church

Teatro Romano

Teatro Odeon

Palazzo Biscari

Benanti

Pietradolce

I Vigneri di Salvo Foti

Trenino dei vini dell’Etna

Mt. Etna