PALERMO
For the Arabs, Sicily’s capital was “Palermo Felicissima” (“Palermo the happiest”), the largest and most beautiful metropolis in the world. After falling into obsolescence due to rising crime rates throughout the 20th century, the city now seems to be experiencing a cultural renaissance. Her storied history is the result of a continuous and incessant succession of conquest by foreigners: Phoenicians, Arabs, Spaniards, and Normans, leading to a fascinating melting pot of cultures that can still be explored today.
SLEEP
Villa Igea, a Rocco Forte Hotel – A turn-of-the-century palazzo at the edge of Palermo, the foot of Mount Pellegrino, and the Gulf of Palermo.
Grand Hotel et des Palmes – The hotel is an imposing Art Nouveau structure designed by master Ernesto Basile: a point of reference for Palermo worldliness. The spectacular Wagner presidential suite is dedicated to the German composer who stayed in the hotel during his long trip to Palermo.
Palazzo Sovrana – A charming structure in a privileged position right in front of the imposing Teatro Massimo, a symbol of the city.
Palazzo Arone di Valentino – This place is perfect for those who want to experience the glories of the ancient Sicilian aristocracy with an impeccable welcome by Baroness Simona Arone di Valentino.
WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT
Osteria dei Vespri – A Palermo classic located under the walls of Palazzo Gangi, which you might recognize from the famous dance scene in the film Il Gattopardo by Luchino Visconti.
Corona Trattoria – One of the best fish taverns in the city. Among the dishes to try are the bucatini with sardines (bucatini con le sarde) and mixed fried seafood (fritto misto).
Franco U’ Vastiddaru – For the best of Palermo street food: sandwiches filled with chickpea fritters (pane e panelle), arancini, sandwiches filled with spleen (pane ca meusa), and potato croquettes (crocchette di patate).
Gagini – This one Michelin star restaurant is in the heart of the old city at Vucciria. The cozy and comfortable environment is ideal to savor Mauricio Zillo’s dishes, a Brazilian chef capable of mixing international cultures and languages with an authentic Sicilian style.
Trattoria Simpaty – In Mondello and an elegant residential neighborhood overlooking a nice sandy beach, this restaurant is loved by Palermitans all year round for a pleasant walk along the seafront. Diners sit on the outdoor patio in the square of the fishermen’s village to try the delicious recipes prepared by Nelly.
Le Angeliche – In a secluded corner of the Capo market, four young women have given life to a small bistro where you can taste recipes of ancient folk memory around Sicily, unearthed by chef Veronica Schiera.
I Segreti del Chiostro – Inside the Santa Caterina complex, this spot offers traditional Sicilian pastry desserts, and the best cannoli in Palermo.
Ideal Caffè Stagnitta – The Stagnitta roastery is located in the pedestrian area of the historic center and is a point of reference for coffee lovers. The building retains the characteristic furniture and wooden sculptures of the master cabinetmaker D’Angelo, depicting the coffee supply chain. The Financial Times has included it in the list of the 30 best independent coffee shops around the world.
Cappadonia – My favorite ice cream in Palermo (and one of the best in Sicily) handcrafted by Maestro Antonio Cappadonia. Try the seasonal fruit flavors.
Mazzini 30 tavern – In the evening, young Palermitans love to meet in the clubs around via Isidoro La Lumia. One of the trendiest is Mazzini 30, ideal for a cocktail accompanied by tasty tapas. The tavern guarantees a pleasant evening: the drink list is surprising, the inside is nice, and there are many fun people to become friends with.
Over Rooftop – The hottest place of the moment is a panoramic terrace on the roof of the Hotel Plaza Opéra. The interior recalls the atmosphere of the most exclusive clubs in the great European capitals, but here, the designers wanted to enhance the warm tones of the Mediterranean. The strong point of Osservatorio Rooftop is the mixology: the cocktails are offered in combination with the delicious Sicilian bites and fresh sushi.
Royal Palace and Palatine Chapel (Palazzo Reale e Cappella Palatina)
Archaeological Museum Salinas (Museo Archeologico Salinas)
Church and Monastery of Santa Caterina (Chiesa e Monastero di Santa Caterina) with a visit to the terraces
Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico)
Capo, Vucciria, Ballarò markets
Cloister and Cathedral of Monreale (Chiostro e Duomo di Monreale)
Florio House at Arenella (Casa Florio all’Arenella)
A stroll through the Liberty Villas of Mondello and a dip in the sea
PALERMO SURROUNDINGS
For a trip out of town, you can opt for the beautiful sea of Cefalù or for a walk in the villages in and around the mountain ranges of Madonie such as Castelbuono and Petralia Soprana.
SLEEP
Susafa – An ancient stone farmhouse located in the Madonie and converted into a charming guesthouse.
Hotel Le Calette – An exclusive boutique hotel completely immersed in a pristine bay of Cefalù. Chef Dario Pandolfo in the kitchen makes exquisite Sicilian dishes.
WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT
Cortile Pepe – My favorite restaurant in Cefalù. Chef Gioacchino Gaglio is a talented young man and his Michelin Guide-recommended food can’t be missed.
Qualia – Located on a picturesque side street far from the tourist traps of Cefalù, this small restaurant has a short but extremely interesting and satisfying menu focused on fresh fish and vegetables. Everything–from the tomato concentrate used in their octopus dish to the sourdough bread–is made in house.
Nangalarruni – The ideal place to enjoy authentic Madonite cuisine. Among the dishes to try are the fusilli with pork ragout (i fusilli al ragù di maialino) made with fresh produce from the garden.
Don Ciccio – An old school trattoria, with a retro atmosphere and dishes that evade trends: caponata, pasta with sardines, and brociolone (meat rolled and stuffed with breadcrumbs), are just some of the recipes of the tradition.
WHAT YOU CAN’T MISS
Museo Gattuso – The Museum houses the largest collection of Renato Guttuso’s works (paintings, sculptures, drawings, engravings), from the 1930s through the last years of the artist’s life.
Susafa, photographed by Sara Mantero
SICILIA OCCIDENTALE (WESTERN SICILY)
TRAPANI, MARSALA, AND SURROUNDINGS
The Temples of Segesta and Selinunte, the Salt Pans of Marsala with the most beautiful sunsets in Sicily, the Land Art of Gibellina, the hinterland with typical bagli (Sicilian farms), and vineyards that look like tapestries embroidered in the rolling hills of the countryside–the west coast is a magical land. Here, the legacy left by Arab domination is still felt today, especially in the regional cuisine. It is no coincidence that the typical dish here is couscous, which arrived in Sicily with the peoples of North Africa.
SLEEP
Momentum Wellness Bio Resort (Castelvetrano) – A traditional Sicilian structure converted into a luxury resort, just a few minutes from the extraordinary Selinunte Archaeological Park.
Villa Favorita Hotel & Resort – Ancient baglio (old fortress with a courtyard) transformed into a charming hotel: the new suites, fresh from a restyling, are characterized by a wooden floor made of oak barrels.
WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT
Le Lumie (Marsala) – The restaurant with the most beautiful panoramic position in Marsala: set on a hill, you can admire the Saline (salt flats) and the Egadi Islands. Try fish recipes reinterpreted by patron chef Emanuele Russo.
Assud (Marsala) – Opposite to the Porta Garibaldi of Marsala, Assud is a shop where you can find the masterpieces of Sicilian street food: arancine, fried “cones”, and delicious sandwiches.
Cantina Siciliana (Trapani) – In the Jewish quarter of Giudecca, this is one of the best taverns in Sicily. Do not miss the couscous, the busiate alla trapanese, the pasta with sardines, and the red tuna.
Pasticceria Maria Grammatico (Erice) – In this laboratory you will find delicious almond sweets, a Sicilian convent tradition.
Pocho (San Vito Lo Capo) – In this refined hotel-restaurant, near the famous beach of San Vito Lo Capo, Marilù Terrasi prepares the best couscous in Sicily.
WHERE TO DRINK: LOCAL CELLARS
Donnafugata (Marsala)
Florio (Marsala)
Marco De Bartoli (Marsala)
Caruso & Minini (Marsala)
Tenute Orestiadi (Gibellina)
Cantine Fina (Marsala)
WHAT YOU CAN’T MISS
Archaeological Park of Selinunte
Museum of the Dancing Satyr
Segesta Archeological Park
Nature Reserve Zingaro
Punic ship at the Museum Lilibeo of Marsala
Fondazione Orestiadi and Cretto di Burri (also known as “The Great Cretto”, a landscape artwork undertaken by Alberto Burri in 1984)
Sunset at the salt flats of Marsala
Passeggiata at Erice (take the cable car from Trapani)
SICILIA SUD OCCIDENTALE (SOUTHWESTERN SICILY) AGRIGENTO & SURROUNDINGS
We are in the Terre del Nero d’Avola, the region which boasts the main vine of Sicilian enology. Between vineyards, don’t miss the spectacular Scala dei Turchi in Realmonte and the Temples of Agrigento.
SLEEP
Verdura Resort, a Rocco Forte Hotel (Sciacca) – The Sicilian outpost of the Sir Rocco Forte group is immersed in 230 hectares of green countryside with private access to the beach.
Doric Resort (Agrigento) – Resort and restaurant immersed in the Unesco landscape of the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento.
Borgo Giallonardo (Realmonte) – Wine relais surrounded by the colors and scents of the Mediterranean maquis. Guests can enjoy the large outdoor spaces in an atmosphere of total relaxation and tranquility. You can choose from 11 spacious suites, some featuring a fitness area, and comfortable rooms furnished with a contemporary touch.
Fontes Episcopi (Aragona) – A converted farmhouse resort just a few kilometers away from the Valley of the Temples and Agrigento’s historic center.
La Foresteria Planeta (Menfi) – The wine resort of the Planeta family–a historic Sicilian wine family–is one of the spearheads of the Sicilian hotel industry. The new eco-sustainable beach club, inaugurated this year, is located on a stretch of the pristine coast of Menfi.
Masseria Del Carboj (Menfi) – A green oasis of tranquility in the Sicilian countryside, where the days pass slowly, between a dip in the pool and the temptations of the restaurant.
WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT
Terracotta (Agrigento) – Great attention in the selection of raw materials used in the kitchen. Try the tasting plate of Sicilian cheeses, including that of the rare local Girgentana goat.
La Scala (Agrigento) – Elegant restaurant on the main street of Agrigento overlooking the main monuments of the historic center.
Da Vittorio (Menfi) – One of the most famous fish restaurants in the area, directly on the beach of Porto Palo. The raw fish is excellent.
La Madia (Licata) – Unmissable stop in Licata to try the cuisine of Pino Cuttaia, a two Michelin star chef, and one of the best ambassadors for Sicilian products.
L’Oste e il Sacrestano (Licata) – Gourmet tavern located in the alleys of old Licata. Try the pasta with sardines and the fish alla carrettiera.
Oasi Beach Osteria del Mare (Licata) – Excellent seaside restaurant. The menu changes daily to reflect the fresh catches.
WHAT YOU CAN’T MISS
Valley of the Temples
Gardens of Kolymbetra (Part of FAI)
Stair of the Turks
Farm Cultural Park di Favara
Sambuca di Sicilia (winner of the “Borgo dei Borghi” award in 2016)
Eraclea Minoa beach
SICILIA CENTRALE (CENTRAL SICILY)
Outside the coastal seaside tourism routes, there is a rich and generous hinterland, where the heart of the Sicilian peasant tradition beats. To discover an authentic and unexpected Sicily, leave the sea behind and head inland.
SLEEP
Agriturismo Bannata (Enna) – A beautiful stone farmhouse, dating back to the early 19th century, located in the heart of Sicily.
Maremoro Casa Barocca (Caltagirone) – In a noble palace in the town of Caltagirone, this property retains the ancient style of the Baroque era with original 17th-century frescoes and floors.
WHERE AND WHAT TO EAT
Ristorante Al Fogher (Aidone) – Inside a splendid villa surrounded by woods. The patron chef Angelo Treno uses only local products.
Rosario Umbriaco (Enna) – A very casual restaurant where you can find some of the best Sicilian arancini, including an award-winning one with fresh ricotta and Piacentinu Ennese DOP cheese.
Ristorante Coria (Caltagirone) – Two young chefs, Domenico Colonnetta and Francesco Patti, revisit the flavors of the Sicilian tradition in a contemporary way.
WHAT YOU CAN’T MISS
Villa Romana del Casale a Piazza Armerina
The Archaeological Museum of Aidone
Caltagirone (the city of ceramics)
