book

Max occupancy: 20 people, min 12 people

As you gaze out at the sparkling, irresistibly blue sea extending in every direction from the 120-meter-high infinity pool, watching seagulls and falcons flying beneath you, you may think you’ve finally reached paradise. In reality, you’re only a 2.5-hour ferry ride from Italy’s mainland at the renovated hotel Forte San Giorgio on the wild Tuscan island of Capraia… but we can see why you’d be mistaken. 

Known as “Il Castello” among the island’s 400-some locals, the fort rises from the 9-million-year-old volcanic rock, towering well above the tiny town and harbor on one side and sheer, rocky cliffs on the other. On clear days, Elba seems an arm’s length away, and, to the north, you can make out the white mountains of Carrara on the Italian mainland. The historic fort has been listed as a National Monument of Architectural and Artistic Merit, alongside Rome’s Forum and Florence’s Duomo, and the current hotel is the result of a detailed 10-year restoration. A shining symbol of Genoese maritime power in one life, a 70s disco in another, the restored citadel is now a 5-star hamlet of interconnecting houses that only resembles a rough fortress on the outside. 

British interior designer Sue Timney shares that she and the Riva family wanted to respect the fact that it’s a fortress, but create a balanced, contemporary, and airy interior reflecting the British aesthetic. Wide oak floorboards, natural materials, stone, locally-sourced marble, and linen curtains–what they’ve achieved is an understated elegance against which the seascape and fort can shine. Inside is an eclectic mix of furniture and art: in the library, Tuscan Savonarola chairs and a Boffi sofa sit alongside modern lighting from London, an Indian mahogany table, Ethiopian crosses, and a Chinese altar table. “The best of both worlds,” Timney shares. 

11 suites sprawl stylishly around the entirety of the property, giving guests the feeling that they have their own “wing”, but with a host of common spaces that invite conviviality. Beyond the Mediterranean gardens, shaded courtyards, well-equipped entertainment room, and plethora of balconies, the gleaming communal kitchen is the heart of the house, designed in part by Riccardo De Pra, a Michelin-starred chef from Veneto who is behind the famed Clooney’s wedding. Here, guests are welcome to gather, sip wine, and join in preparing dinner with Florence-based chef Françoise, using fresh catches of the day, seasonal produce, and wild herbs from the island. 

L’isola di Capraia has a large part to do with the hotel’s success and charm. There’s something special about the wildness of the island, with indigenous birds building their nests, colossal sea mammals passing by on their journey south, and wild lavender and prickly pear growing everywhere among the rocks. Over 95% of the landscape is left untouched–the sea too is a marine reserve and has regulations on fishing–the air is uncontaminated by exhaust as cars are restricted to one hour before and after the ferry arrives, and the only sound is the waves. 

Where to spend your time around the hotel depends on the time of day: there are two pools–one for sunrise, one for sunset. There’s one breakfast terrace, another terrace for the afternoon. One space is perfect for aperitivo, and another alcove for a cozy, post-dinner cocktail. But Daniel’s favorite moment is sunrise over Capraia: “As the sun slowly rises over the archipelago, its soft light reveals the island of Monte Cristo, and Elba and the Forte’s bastions are bathed in warmth.” Even if your suite offers a perfect sunrise view from the comfort of your plush bed, he suggests taking an unforgettable yoga class on the Terrazza della Torre. Then, after breakfast, head down to the private footpath and take a dip in the sea. The protected waters offer unparalleled opportunities for diving, so take an afternoon boat ride around the island and, if you’re lucky, you’ll see dolphins cresting the waves behind you. You can also grab an e-bike and explore the slopes of the former prison–for much of the Tuscan archipelago was used as detainment centers–or set off on hikes that nearly circumvent the entirety of the 19-km-squared island. Come back for aperitivo at the poolside bar, with a magnificent sunset, and you’ve got the perfect day. 

Forte San Giorgio certainly has come a long way from how it looked when 16th-century navy soldiers sheltered here from pirates, when teens boasting thigh-high boots danced the night away, and even when, in 2008, now-owner Daniel made his first visit to the fort with his father, who ended up purchasing the entire property. In 2019, they opened their doors to select weddings and special events, and the reception was so positive that they decided to open it up for whole-property rentals. And we’re glad they did. Here, you’ll spend your days suspended somewhere between the 16th and 21st century, the rugged landscape and refined rooms, and the bright sun and endlessly blue sea. 

A few segreti (secrets) from Daniel:

La Garitta – Owned by a world champion spear fisherman, this restaurant right on the port serves fresh catches of the day and boasts lovely views over the marina and fort in the distance. Must Order: Tagliatelle alla Elena and the carpaccio di mare

La Mursa Azienda Agricola – This award-winning winery is the brainchild of Francesco, a young Capraiese with strong ties to his island, and Gianna, a Pugliese lecturer. They recovered formerly abandoned terraces on Mount Castello, planting grenache in accordance with organic principles to recover the grape variety that was once cultivated on the island. Stop in for a tasing or to buy some of their signature wines. 

Private Rib Boat and Snorkeling Tour – There’s no better way to enjoy the island than by boat. Grab a mask and have Forte San Giorgio’s skipper Pasquale take you to secret coves and snorkel around the clear pristine, protected waters. 

Scuba Diving – The island boasts a PADI certified diving school from which you can get a certificate and take tours around the stunning Tuscan Archipelago where the Tyrrhenian and Ligurian seas meet. 

Go For a Hike – The land and seascapes are spectacular on the many hiking trails, ranging from 30-minute to 8-hour loops for all levels. Daniel’s favorite is the “il Zenobito” hike at the northernmost tip of the island, with jaw-dropping sea views and an abandoned 16th-century battlement tower. 

Watch the Sunset – Take an e-bike across the island to watch the sun sink below Corsica or book a sunset tour of the island on Dragut’s fishing boat.