Rome wasn’t built in a day, and neither was its gastronomic tradition. From the tripe- and offal-rich dishes of ancient cucina povera to carciofi alla giudia that were brought here by Roman Jews in the 14th century, to the crowd-pleasing carbonara, which started appearing on Roman menus in the late 1940s, Rome’s culinary scene is as storied as its monuments. You could spend, well, an eternity eating your way around the Eternal City, but just in case your schedule is a little more limited than that, we’ve rounded up our favorite spots to help you sample the best bites and steer clear of tourist traps.

Piatto Romano – A meticulous selection of raw materials results in refined and thoughtful versions of classics, and some creative dishes all their own. Their foraged vegetables and wild herbs make for a strong antipasti and contorni game, and their offal dishes are also excellent. The wine (many natural and biodynamic bottles) is as good as the food.

Must Order: Misticanza insalata with anchovy-sumac dressing, olive all’ascolana (fried stuffed olives), any of the vegetable starters, and rigatoni alla pajata

Matricianella – Fittingly owned by a family from Amatrice since the 1950s and fittingly serving some of the best amatriciana in town, right by the Spanish Steps. 

Must Order: Bucatini all’amatriciana and carciofo alla giudia

Da Teo – While it’s become well-trodden on the tourist track these days, Da Teo still retains its classic style and charmingly abrupt service, while serving large portions of well-executed Roman classics. Sit in the pretty courtyard for people watching.

Must Order: Seppie e carciofi (cuttlefish with artichokes), carciofo alla romana (Roman-style artichokes), and, when in season, puntarelle

SantoPalato – From Rome hotshot Sarah Ciccolini, Santo Palato serves elevated versions of Roman classics on a meat-heavy menu, to be washed down by one of their many gorgeous bottles of natural wine. 

Must Order: Polpette made with oxtail braised with cocoa powder and served with a peanut and lovage sauce, frittatina con rigaje di pollo (frittata made with chicken offal), and carbonara

Trattoria da Cesare al Casaletto – This old-school trattoria in the Monteverde district is perhaps the truest expression of Roman gastronomic identity, relatively untouched since the 1950s. If you can’t make it (or get in) to their original location, visit their newer Trattoria da Cesare al Pellegrino, it won’t disappoint. 

Must Order: Rigatoni sugo involtini, polpette di bollito, spezzatino di vitella

Roscioli Salumeria – An extensive but well-executed menu of Roman fare, unrivaled wine cellar, and one of the few restaurants in town with good lighting (not too bright, not too dim). They cook their guanciale to perfection–crispy on the outside, and melt-in-your-mouth on the inside. Psst: they also just opened a New York location. 

Must Order: Fried zucchini blossom stuffed with oxtail ragu and mozzarella, carbonara, gricia, and any of their house-cured salumi or house-smoked fishes–or, try the wine pairing tasting menu at Rimessa Roscioli

Le Mani in Pasta – As the name would suggest, this classic spot serves beautiful handmade pastas along with great seafood. Hidden in a tiny Trastevere side street, it’s easy to miss–look out for the black iron door with a chalkboard sign that reads “dieting is just a waste of time.” Pro tip: ask to be seated on the top floor.

Must Order: Carpaccio di spigola al tartufo, spaghetti alla pescatore con astice (seafood pasta with lobster), and, as a side dish, the broccolo romano ripassato

Retrobottega – Chef Alessandro combines informality with high quality food, and the creative tasting menu changes seasonally but always highlights vegetables, local herbs, natural wines, and house-baked bread. You can now also order a la carte. 

Must Order: The vegetarian tasting menu, for a break from all the guanciale 

Trecca – The brainchild of brothers Manuel and Nicolo Trecastelli, this modern version of a traditional Roman trattoria focuses on sourcing fresh, local ingredients. An informal setting, seasonal comfort food, and a pinch of innovation round out the picture.

Must Order: Fegato di pollo (chicken liver served as a hash with tiny crispy potatoes) and amatriciana

Trattoria Al Moro – This historic trattoria, around since the 1920s, serves superbly-executed plates in a wood-paneled space just around the corner from the Trevi Fountain. The atmosphere leans towards the high-end, as do the prices, though the restaurant remains surprisingly unfussy. Come lunchtime, you’ll be dining on springtime vignarola and superlative zabaione side by side with politicians and lobbiers on their lunch breaks.

Must Order: Spaghetti al moro (their twist on a carbonara), vignarola, zabaione

Trattoria Da Enzo Al 29 – One of the few cases in which Instagram fame is well justified. Maria Chiara di Felice and her two brothers Francesco and Roberto run this tiny trattoria with a strong focus on product quality; they use produce from their garden in the outskirts of Rome or from small, local producers. Pro-tip: Go during the week for an early lunch or dinner; at prime time and during the weekend, it’s way too crowded. 

Must Order: Burrata, carciofo alla giudia, polpette al sugo, gricia con le fave, and the homemade pistacchio gelato

Trattoria Monti – Just behind Roma Termini in the Esquilino neighborhood, this trattoria serves Marchigiano cuisine in a tastefully no-frills space. Only in Rome can you find tortello al rosso d’uovo–one giant, sumptuous raviolo–within a five minute walk of a major train station.

Must Order: The aforementioned tortello filled with ricotta, mint, and one red egg yolk

Settimio All’Arancio – This local-favorite institution, hidden in a small street near Monte D’Oro market and Piazza di Spagna, has been shucking some of the freshest seafood in the city since 1973. We love it so much that we featured their iconic pink tablecloth on the cover of our Quotidianno.

Must Order: Salad with cuttlefish and artichokes; linguine aglio, olio e peperoncino with cuttlefish and yellow cherry tomatoes; polpette di bollito; and the broccolo romano ripassato

Beppe e i suoi Formaggi – The long cheese counter at this spot in the Ghetto Ebraico is the stuff of dreams. Come for a quick lunch or aperitivo, or just to buy high-quality cheeses, many of which are made by Beppe himself. The selection of wines is top-notch, with both natural and conventional options.

Must Order: A tagliere tasting plate to sample a bit of everything 

La Certosa – A bit outside of the center, the unassuming La Certosa holds onto the essence of what the city once was. Come here for the seafood dishes, eaten on outdoor plastic tables and served by classic Romans. 

Must Order: Spaghetti alle vongole

ROME SURROUNDINGS:

Osteria Iotto (Campagnano Romano) – This fantastic little spot, in a sleepy town 40 minutes outside of the capital, is a family affair, with Chef Marco in the kitchen and his kids in the dining room. The produce on their ever-changing menu is as local to the town as the family, coming either from their on-site farm or other nearby farmers. Check their social media for their frequent collabs and pop up dinners, and don’t skip out on their insane selection of natural wine. You can absolutely buy a bottle to go to drink once you arrive at your destination.

Must Order: Let Chef Marco take the wheel, or order one of everything

L’Isola del Pescatore (Santa Severa) – A great spot for seafood, right by the sea. Be sure to ask for a table by the water. 

Must Order: Spaghetti ai ricci di mare (sea urchin spaghetti) and crudi (raw fish platter)

Da Romolo (Anzio) – The definition of no-frills: you come here for the quality seafood, and for their antipasti that are enough to leave you more than satisfied. 

Must Order: Antipasto crudi