This bright yellow, wonderfully perfumed risotto is practically synonymous with Lombardy’s capital. Its punchy color and earthy-sweet flavor come from saffron, a luxury spice that was historically used as dye on stained glass windows, including those of the Duomo di Milano. Legend has it that this dish originated in 1574 when Valerio della Fiandra, a painter working on the Duomo, decided to add the saffron to the rice at his daughter’s wedding as a joke to surprise her soon-to-be husband, a painter with Valerio who was nicknamed Zafferano.

Risotto alla Milanese is a gold star against the countrywide pasta-dominated primi. On menus, you’ll often find the rice topped with ossobuco, another of Milan’s famed dishes, but the delicate dish really doesn’t need accompaniment. Although saffron is expensive, you only need a pinch, especially when you bloom it first in the stock. They say good things take time–and a little arm strength–and this recipe proves that to be true. 

ITALY SEGRETA’S RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

• A small pinch of saffron threads
• 1 small yellow onion, finely diced
• 80 g butter
• 300 g carnaroli rice
• 100 g dry white wine 
• 800 g vegetable or chicken stock
• 60 g grated Parmigiano Reggiano
• Salt, to taste

PREPARATION

1. Heat the stock in a large pot. 
2. Place the saffron threads into a small bowl, rubbing between your fingers a bit to release the flavor. Once warm, but not boiling, pour a bit of the stock over the saffron, and let it bloom for about 5-15 minutes until the liquid turns bright orange. 
3. Meanwhile, in a large, wide, and shallow saucepan, heat 20 g of butter. Add the onion and a pinch of salt and sweat, stirring over medium low heat until translucent, about 5-10 minutes.
4. Add in the rice and cook for about one minute, stirring to coat. 
5. Add the wine and cook over medium heat, stirring–with a wooden spoon–until absorbed. 
6. Add about a cup of the warm stock and stir constantly over medium heat until nearly absorbed. Add in the stock with saffron, and stir until nearly absorbed. Continue adding the stock, a little at a time, stirring constantly until it is nearly absorbed between additions. 
7. Once the liquid is all added and the rice is al dente (no more than 20 minutes), remove from the heat. Add the remaining 60 g of (cold!) butter, the Parmigiano, and a pinch of salt, stirring to form a creamy consistency. Let it rest a few minutes with the lid on before serving.