Peacocks (Pavo cristatus): a wonder of the avian species and a resplendent spectacle by universal standards. Generally observed in solitary splendor or parading around in loose groups, they fan out their plumage in elaborate displays to attract attention. They like to walk—strut, even—preferably in slow motion for dramatic effect, and they are highly self-aware, sensing when a feather might be out of place or a camera nearby. Now, add an immaculately tailored suit, a healthy Instagram account, possibly even a cigar or a fedora, and we’re talking about a very special subcategory of these marvels: the “Pitti Peacocks.”

To be clear, the terms “Pitti Peacocks” and “Peacock culture”—in reference to the phenomenon of attendees who descend on Florence’s Fortezza da Basso during the biannual menswear event, Pitti Uomo—were not invented in this article. They are preexisting terms known to the global public, the press, and, perhaps most importantly, they are often used self-referentially and in good humor by said attendees themselves. They describe the grand show of style, bravado, and immaculately measured theatrics that turns heads outside the international menswear event, which had its first edition in 1972. Modesty? Perhaps not the time, nor the place. A modest peacock is a paradox, no?

A few weeks before this year’s summer edition, which recently took place from June 17th to 20th, a Florentine tailor used the phrase when describing his plan to debut a caramel-toned, double-breasted cotton jacket with flap pockets from his new collection: “I’m going to ‘peacock’ around in this, along with all the rest of them. Real peacocks have to be at Pitti!” he said, pressing the jacket’s peak lapels with an iron that sounded like it was in a state of emotional distress. Peacock Culture seemed an intriguing phenomenon worth examining more closely—perhaps as much a behavioral study as an observation of what people wear to the world’s most influential men’s fashion event.

For many, observing the Pitti Peacocks in action is open-air theater at its finest; something akin to a front-row seat at Il Barbiere di Siviglia, or encountering Michelangelo’s David for the first time (who, it must be said, seems a tad underdressed in comparison). While it’s difficult to define a “stereotypical” Peacock, a museum dedicated to their legacy would have walls lined with blazers (structured, unstructured, patch-pocket, and otherwise), hundreds of different kinds of linen and cotton shirts, a section for surprise colors, prints, and experimental fabrics, and cabinets of artisanally-made leather loafers (Horsebit 1953s, undoubtedly). That’s all before we get to the hats (fedoras topping the totem pole), sunglasses, jewelry, foulards, cravats, cigars, and other silky, cinematic accessories. Layer all this up and, naturally, you’re going to look the part, or your part, at least. 

(Peacocks also receive phone calls—many of them. It’s incredible how many phone calls some peacocks receive in a given timeframe, especially when the camera is nearby.)

For others, Peacock culture is all a bit too showy, a bit too self-indulgent, and a bit too geared toward the ’gram nowadays. Perhaps for those who have attended the event for decades, the focus has shifted too far from the trade show’s purpose of highlighting the latest in menswear and industry developments to the individual personalities who headline the “show” outside. Granted, there’s no denying the passion and dedication that underlies Peacock Culture; it’s a rousing international display of creative, cultural, and self-expression. 

If clothes irons suddenly became extinct, we’d all be in hot water—but perhaps Peacocks even more so, especially at this time of year, when a pair of tobacco-linen pants crease just by staring at them. But staring is the whole point. Stare away! Pitti Uomo is an opportunity for international designers, tailors, and brands to present their creations on the world stage, to be their own best walking advertisement. For those who get a close-up, or look beyond the bravado, this parade can be an educational crash course in notch, peak, and shawl lapels. It can be the moment you discover that a vent is not just an essential source of air in summertime, but the strategically placed slits at the back of a jacket to allow ease of movement. 

It’s also a platform for stylists, influencers, creatives, collectors, and celebrities from the menswear sphere and beyond to express their curatorial creativity in styling an outfit, representing their favorite designers and brands in head-to-toe looks that seem to span every style and scenario: classic Peacocks, casual Peacocks, vintage Peacocks, dandy Peacocks, artistic Peacocks, James Bond-type Peacocks, Miles Davis-type Peacocks, Amedeo Modigliano-type Peacocks, Peacocks in overcoats and scarves who manage to keep their cool inside a scorching stone fortress (…no, really, what’s the secret?). 

Clothing is the physical and metaphorical “currency”—the means of creative and cultural exchange—and this sense of diversity and inclusivity is what makes Pitti Uomo an exuberant and evolving spectacle.

“Mega cataclysmic” is how South African fashion influencer and stylist Deni Jones describes the significance of Pitti Uomo (understood, in this context, to mean an epically transformative experience). We met Jones near the entrance to Fortezza da Basso on the second day of the fair; not only was this his first-ever Pitti Uomo experience, but it was his first time in Florence. Dressed in high-waisted white linen shorts, a crisp navy-and-white striped blazer, and a boater hat, Jones said his style was an expression of South African dandy culture, which he wanted to share with the international Pitti community. “Style is about celebrating your culture and identity. This is what Pitti Uomo is all about,” he said.

Shortly after, we met Jeffery Goff from Seattle, Washington, who specializes in the intersection of psychology, fitness, and style for men. His fuchsia trousers and relaxed zebra-print jacket seemed to emit their own magnetic field, drawing people in—even as he stood there in the shade, minding his own business. “This is only my second time inside the fair at Pitti Uomo, but compared to last year, I see an increased amount of vintage inspiration in what people are wearing,” said Goff. “The word I use to describe what goes on out here is individuality. That’s what Pitti Uomo means to me.”

After spotting his jewel-toned silk jacket breezing through the crowd, we had to run like the wind to catch Luca Sartor for a quick word as he headed for the exit. Based in Treviso, the Italian bespoke tailor reimagines vintage material—silk foulards, in the case of his jacket—to create one-off garments for his clients. “I see a cross between vintage and classic tailoring here at Pitti. I think this idea of wearing shapes from the past is always popular, and people express their individuality with other elements, like their choice of accessories,” said Sartor. “Casual is how I would describe this edition of the fair. Casual, with a touch of elegance.”

Italo-Australian Antoinette Petruccelli is no stranger to the international fashion scene. In fact, among her many creative talents and ventures is producing handcrafted boutonnières—luxury fabric flowers—for her dapper, dandy, and debonair clients across the world. This distinguished accessory was spotted on gents and ladies all over Florence during Pitti Uomo, from Fortezza da Basso to the swishest black-tie dinners and hotel cocktail parties. “I love menswear—well, most of it. Here at Pitti, people wear whatever they want to wear. It’s a place to just show, and to show off,” she says, herself a vision of summer sophistication in a cream pinstripe suit with a statement foulard and one of her crimson boutonnières. “You see everything, from casual styles to totally over-the-top looks. There’s no trend among the people who are attending; we are all just expressing ourselves with our outfits,” says Petruccelli. “Eccentric is the word I would use to describe Pitti Uomo right now.”

Swans are charismatic. Eagles, alluring. But Pitti Peacocks? Another story entirely. Would it even be Pitti Uomo without them? After all, it’s largely thanks to their enthusiasm for the event, their passion for dressing the part (and their Instagram posts), that the fair and its global community continue to evolve in scope and scale. Even if, according to some connoisseurs, the most impressive Peacocks are those mysterious few who slip out the back entrance, who post nothing about their outfits, and who would still be dressed this way if you ran into them in the grocery store next week.