I got my first taste of Italian island life at seven. My mother’s best friend had married an Italian who took it upon himself to reveal the country’s hidden treasures. Rather eccentric and fiercely patriotic, he had one mission: to prove that Italians—and Italy—were the best. It was impossible to argue with him then, and it still is.

He was the first to bring me to Ponza, in Lazio’s Tyrrhenian Sea, the largest of the Pontine Islands—the archipelago itself named after it. Arriving by boat, we spotted a scatter of colorful houses on the horizon, lit by a sunset that made a rainbow look dull: it was love at first sight. The Bay of Ponza, peppered with fishing boats, is like a miniature Naples, but steeper and more intimate, its houses climbing sharply up the hills. Stripes of amber, red, yellow, cream, and the occasional blue run right to the water’s edge; all the colors of summer gathered on Ponza’s shore.

We swam off rocks and dived into the island’s natural-made pools, where I insisted with adamance—and a few punches—to my mocking older sister that I had spotted pink-tailed mermaids. (Local legend even casts Ponza as the mythical home of Circe, the sorceress from Homer’s Odyssey, which, to my mind, made the mermaid sightings entirely plausible.) We ventured into caves, and thankfully only learned afterwards that they were once used to breed and cultivate sea snakes. We rented little dinghy boats and set off to explore the island’s beaches, as well as the nearby islets of Palmarola and Zannone, each with their own wild coves and impossibly clear water.

I left the island weeping, begging my equally morose mother to stay, insisting that I could enroll in Ponza’s Scuola Elementare and live a gelato-gobbling, mermaid-watching life forever.

Twenty years later, my far-fetched dream of becoming a true Ponzese may not have entirely materialized, but I am not far off either. I’m writing this while sitting on Frontone beach, Ponza’s largest stretch of golden sand, having sailed here for the week, as I now do multiple times a year with my very own eccentric and patriotic Italian friends.

I may no longer see mythological aquatic creatures, nor do I dive so daringly from six meter cliffs. My daily gelato of yore has been replaced by Aperol Spritzes, drank at the charming Bar Tripoli at the port, and my dinners are accompanied with a glass or two of the island’s locally grown wine, Fieno di Ponza.

But for the rest, two decades on, the island remains the same. The same café owner greets me each visit, now joined by his taller daughter and son, and always asks after my mother and her friend. The air still smells of salt and oven-baked pizza as I wander past the port’s idyllic shops selling local artisan wares. The same restaurants serve the same dishes, and the same boat still ferries me to the island’s beaches (find recommendations for the best below).

That’s Ponza’s magic: it’s raw, unchanged beauty. The thrill I felt stepping off the boat at seven still hits each time the ferry docks, that same rush of salt air and color pulling me back into the island’s spell.

WHERE TO SLEEP ON PONZA

Hotel Gennarino a Mare – A white-and-sky-blue palafitta perched over the water at the quiet northern end of Ponza’s port, this small, family-run pensione keeps things simple—whitewashed rooms, crisp linens, postcard views—but the real treat is snagging a top-floor suite with a large terrace, where you can watch the harbor without hearing the late-night revelry. Downstairs, the waterfront restaurant, Ristorante Gennarino A Mare, is a destination in its own right. Don’t miss the tagliatelle di calamari, polpo, and spaghetti vongole e bottarga.

Chiaia Di Luna – The only hotel that overlooks Ponza’s green, half-moon bay, Chiaia Di Luna is the island’s best “luxury” property. You’ll find beautiful tiled floors and a fantastic homemade breakfast, rounded out by mesmerizing views of the most intense sunsets over the “chiaia”—crystalline waters in the Neapolitan dialect—from the terrace and most of the rooms.  

WHERE TO EAT ON PONZA

Da Enzo al Frontone (Solo a vela) – A shack on the rocks with a cave-restaurant right on the water, Da Enzo is accessible only by boat. Bright yellow tables under raffia canopies set the scene for panoramic views and plates of just-caught fish and seafood, simply grilled and perfectly fresh. This is one of the best meals you’ll have on Ponza. 

La Marina (Cala Feola) – Here, taste traditional Ponzese cuisine and people-watch (Beyonce herself has dined here) with views of the sea from atop Cala Feola. Don’t miss their version of parmigiana, made with cactus paddles, harvested fresh from the island every day, as well as the spaghetti with lemon and anchovies. 

Da Assunta – Everything here is sourced locally and in season, with a small menu that changes constantly to match the day’s catch and Ponza’s gardens. Expect simply prepared fish and vibrant island vegetables, with a strong finish thanks to homemade pistachio gelato.

La Pizzeria Ponzese – After two decades running a pizzeria in the Bronx, the owners came home—because not even New York can compete with Ponza. Their waterfront spot is a go-to for pizza al taglio (don’t miss the cherry tomato) and the dangerously addictive scrocchiarella—arguably among the best you’ll ever have. Grab a bag of schiocchiarelle for your day out on a gozzo, or settle in at the wooden tables on the promenade for a casual dinner of shared slices, a little frittino, and a simple spaghettino al pomodoro. (Or, when available, the spaghetti alla granseola or with pomodorino fresco, cozze, e vongole.)

La Baguetteria del Porto – Perfect for stocking up before a boat day, beach afternoon, or the ferry home, this little portside shop turns out fresh-made sandwiches alongside boat-friendly bites like pasta fredda, cooked farro, crisp salads, and sautéed greens (cicoria and scarola ripassata). 

Pasticceria Gildo – Get your sugar fix at this always-busy bakery and cafe, a mainstay of Ponza since 1960. Try the Rocce di Palmarola, a local dessert made with shortcrust pastry and almond paste, and sip espresso with locals and tourists alike. 

Ristorante Punta Incenso da Anna – Perched above Cala Gaetano on the island’s most remote tip, this wooden, sea-breeze-filled spot serves simple, satisfying seafood. Large windows and a mural echo the view outside, so whether you’re tucking into the catch of the day or sipping wine, the sea is always in sight.

WHERE TO DRINK ON PONZA

Bar Tripoli – See and be seen at this nearly century-old aperitivo institution overlooking the port. Come for the panoramic views, stay for the reasonably priced drinks, wide beer selection, and tasty bites—all with a front-row seat to life in Ponza.

Ristorante Chiaia di Luna – With views over its namesake beach, this aesthetic poolside spot is perfect for settling in for a slower evening, working your way through an extensive list of Italian wines in an effortlessly elegant setting.

WHERE TO SWIM ON PONZA

Al Frontone – Hop on the little boat from the port near the ferries (€5 round trip) to reach Frontone Beach. From there, follow the rocks to a small kiosk (Da Enzo) with daybeds and impossibly clear water.

Piscine Naturali – Just one bay from La Marina restaurant, this dreamy spot has two kiosks serving excellent bruschette, lounge chairs set right on the rocks, and striking natural pools. The bright orange umbrellas only add to the sunny summer feel.

By Gozzo – For the best day (and best swims) on the island, stock up first: a bottle of wine and fresh fruit from fruttivendolo Da Ninetta, slices of pizza al taglio and croccarella from Pizzeria Ponzese. Then rent a small gozzo and head to Palmarola—an uninhabited island just next door—or circle Ponza itself. It’s the best way to uncover the island’s most beautiful hidden coves and secret swimming spots.

WHAT TO DO ON PONZA (BESIDES SWIMMING)

Get a shave – Next to Macelleria Di Meglio, near Gennarino a Mare, is Ponza’s finest barber—so good he almost makes me wish I were a man, just to have my beard done here. Gentlemen, resist the razor before your trip and let him work his magic.

Visit the cemetery – Just a short walk from the port, Ponza’s cliffside cemetery is one of the island’s most low-key stunning spots. Located on Madonna Hill atop the ruins of a Roman villa, it was officially established in 1892—though burials here date back to the 18th century. Among the whitewashed chapels rests notables like Giuseppe Cesare Tricoli, author of the 1855 Monografia per le Isole del Gruppo Ponziano.