If you’re reading this, you likely know that we take our food very, very seriously at Italy Segreta. It’s not uncommon to find us dissecting recipes and arguing about the optimal variety of tomato, or what the best way to cook broccoli is. And of course, when it comes to the infinite and minute variations on classic Italian dishes, the atmosphere at the office can get downright heated. In order to settle it once and for all, we’ll be taking the time to workshop and taste-test beloved recipes from Italy’s different cities and regions, in the aim of agreeing on the one, ultimate, reigning recipe. We’re not saying this is the most historically accurate or traditional way of cooking these recipes–there are plenty of other places you can go for those methods–this is just our highly opinionated editorial board’s collective favorite way. Approved by both the Italian and international contingents. 

First up, in honor of our Sicily issue, is pasta alla Norma. This simple, summery dish was born in Catania, sometime around the turn of the 20th century. Composer, poet, and playwright Nino Martoglio was the first to combine the mouth-puckering, sweet-savory-salty trifecta of fried eggplant, tomatoes, and ricotta salata together. Evidently, the resulting dish was music to his ears (or rather, palate), inspiring him to name it after his favorite Vincenzo Bellini opera. Norma also happens to be the first opera ever performed at Catania’s Neo-Baroque opera house, which is named after the composer. Bellini and his Norma are big deals around there. 

Notes: Tradition dictates that for true pasta alla Norma, you have to hand mill your tomatoes into a puree after letting them half-cook in water, but neither we nor anybody we know has the time for that, so we’ve scrapped that step. Letting the tomato cook down longer allows them to develop a rich, sweet flavor, and the addition of pasta water helps to smooth and emulsify the pulpy sauce. Similarly, we like our Norma extra eggplant-y, so in addition to the round slices of fried eggplant that are traditionally mixed in just before serving, we’re suggesting also adding diced, fried eggplant directly into the sauce, and letting it all get to know each other in the pot while you complete the rest of the recipe. Trust us, it makes a difference. Other sacrilegious variations include adding red pepper chili flakes to the sauce for a little kick, or, to brighten up the dish, grating some lemon zest on top to garnish alongside the ricotta salata and basil. 

ITALY SEGRETA’S PASTA ALLA NORMA

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS 

• 2 medium-sized eggplants
• 3 pounds tomatoes (San Marzano, Roma, Pachino, Datterini all work*), cut into quarters
• 3 cloves garlic 
• 1 bunch basil 
• 500 gr rigatoni
• Ricotta salata 
• Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• Salt, to taste
• Red pepper chili flakes (optional)
• Lemon zest (optional)

PREPARATION

1. Dice one eggplant into 1-inch cubes. Slice the other into thin rounds. 
2. Place diced eggplant in a strainer, and sprinkle generously with salt. Place the sliced eggplant rounds on a wooden cutting board or tray, laid out so they don’t overlap. Sprinkle each piece with salt. Let all the eggplant sit for 40 minutes to an hour to sweat out the excess water.
3. Heat olive oil in a large saucepan. Smash garlic and add to pan. Once the garlic smells fragrant and the oil begins to shimmer, add the tomatoes and a large pinch of salt. 
4. Add a handful of basil, leaving leaves whole and smacking them between your palms to release the flavor. Reserve some basil leaves to garnish at the end. If you’re going rogue like us, add some chili flakes at this stage. 
5. Keeping heat on low, let the tomatoes cook down for about 40 minutes, until they break down and become saucy. Stir periodically as needed. Add water as needed.
6. Now, back to the eggplant. Heat olive oil or neutral frying oil in another pot. You want enough so that the eggplant pieces will be completely submerged. 
7. Pat all the eggplant dry with a paper towel or dish towel.
8. Once the oil reaches 170-180 ℃, fry the pieces of diced eggplant first, and then the rounds. Work in batches so as not to overcrowd the pan. Set pieces of fried eggplant on a paper towel to remove excess oil, then add diced eggplant directly to the sauce and reserve the rounds.
9. When you’re about halfway done with your frying, put a large pot of water on to boil. Salt generously. Once boiling, add pasta and cook until al dente.
10. When pasta is done, reserve a cup of pasta water and add as needed to the sauce. Adjust salt to your liking. 
11. Toss pasta with the sauce. Serve each bowl with a few slices of fried eggplant on top, and garnish with basil and a generous mound of ricotta salata. Sprinkle with lemon zest for a non-traditional but still very Sicilian-feeling burst of freshness.

*If you’re lucky enough to find Merinda tomatoes, which are only available in Southern Italy for a few months a year in the spring, then add a few of those to the sauce too. They’re crazy sweet, and will give your pasta an extra punch of brightness.