I was born in Milan, but raised in Liguria. I’ve spent every summer since I was a little boy in a small village next to Cinque Terre. When the holidays ended and I inevitably had to return to my hometown for the start of school, my heart was filled with nostalgia for the sight of the sparkling cobalt blue and sound of waves crashing onto the beach. This feeling lingered through the gray clouds and long days of study until the following summer brought more sun and sea.
Liguria is that c-shaped region on the northwest Italian coast, known for focaccia, pesto, and towns like Cinque Terre and Portofino. But this region is more than just this. Liguria has a poetic atmosphere that envelops the whole landscape: from the views of the small villages overlooking the sea, to the colors of the sunset that, depending on the month, are tinged with vibrant shades of orange and pink.
The region is so romantic and inspiring that the southernmost tip on the eastern riviera is called the Golfo dei Poeti, or Gulf of Poets. The best spots to visit here are Lerici and Tellaro, two fishing villages, and Portovenere, another medieval borough which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. From the extreme tip of this village, you can see the island of Palmaria rising from the sea. Together with Tino and Tinetto, these islands form the only Ligurian archipelago, characterized by typical Mediterranean vegetation, high cliffs overlooking the water, and caves accessible only by boat–or by abseiling ropes. Beaches like the Cala del Pozzale (Cove of the Seagulls) are stunning and secluded, since Palmaria is the only inhabited of the tree, boasting 34 permanent residents year round. Several forts and military settlements, built to defend the region from pirates and other enemies, dot the archipelago. The most spectacular is the Scola Tower, once a dungeon, built on a little rock in the middle of the sea.
Past Portovenere, you reach Cinque Terre, the collection of five towns each different from each other but all beloved for their surreal arrangement overlooking the sea and picturesque colors of the buildings. These are great for a romantic trip and to hike between, but get a bit crowded in the summer (here’s our local’s guide), so I like to head more north (and west).
The three villages of Levanto, Bonassola, and Framura are perfect for anyone who wants to enjoy a week or a period in Liguria without the summer chaos of the hordes of tourists. Thanks to their strategic position, it is possible to reach any destination comfortably. The three are interconnected by a tunnel, which was the old Ligurian railway, converted into a pedestrian-cycle road. The most magical is Bonassola, which preserves all the typical characteristics of a small Ligurian village. Not to be missed here are the Madonnina della Punta, a small chapel on the rocks where it is possible to enjoy a packed aperitivo. The town’s central beach is stones, not sand, so if you’re looking for the latter, head north to Sestri Levante’s Baia del Silenzio.
Another great stop is San Fruttuoso, a little secluded beach near Portofino reachable by foot or by sea. Here, the 10th century Abbey of San Fruttuoso is worth the tour, and for divers and kayakers alike, the famous bronze, life-size Christ of the Abyss statue sits about 300 meters from the shore and 17 meters deep. For a great dive from the rocks in the “Italian way”, Punta Chiappa is the perfect spot not too far from San Fruttuoso.
The last tip to end a magnificent journey through the picturesque Ligurian boroughs and villages is Bogliasco: a little gem that preserves an authentic atmosphere of yesteryear. Its beauty is simple and the panorama is quite varied, consisting of serene beaches leading to the steep cliffs of Pontetto, a natural area overlooking the sea.
My Liguria is magical and surprising, perhaps a little shy and, in some cases, even imperfect, and yet, once discovered, it is a sweet secret worth keeping.
WHEN TO GO TO LIGURIA
Like most places by the sea in Italy, the months of July and August are quite crowded. Instead, enjoy the region for a few days at the end of May or June and come back in September for a last swim before the winter–you will have the best places nearly all to yourself.
WHERE TO STAY IN LIGURIA
Liguria has plenty of fascinating B&Bs, residences, and private houses available for rent. If you’re staying for a week or more, I think renting a nice flat near the beach or halfway up the coast is a great way to get a real taste of the area. Moving away from the most popular destinations, there are also several particular small hotels/lodges scattered around the villages. La Villa degli Ulivi in Bonassola is a charming B&B managed by a friendly, available owner. The flat is situated in an enchanting olive grove with a terrace overlooking the gulf and town and a swimming pool, and, from here you can easily reach any destination. Eco del Mare (Night and Day Beachclub) in Lerici has an unparalleled design and location. Even if you don’t stay here, you can come for a beach day or to dance the night away. Another gem a few steps from Lerici and the Gulf of Poets, is OMHOM, a charming two-suites inn with an atmosphere of luxury but the simplicity of everyday life. Going towards Genova, if you are looking for a property with direct sea access without too many frills, Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi is your answer. In Camogli, Villa Rosmarino is a boutique hotel–self described as a house–in Monte di Portofino in a classic Ligurian building, inspired by the French Maison de Charme. The first three floors with 6 suites and rooms are open for guests, and the top is a private residence of the owners. Here, you’ll enjoy breakfast in the beautiful and lush garden, and the private pool is perfect for cooling off in the afternoon heat.
For real garden fanatics, visit Villa La Pergola in the lesser-known town of Alassio. This spot is a refined, elegant, full English colonial style stay with a gorgeous garden, romantic vibe, luxury pool and spa, and Michelin restaurant. Closer to Cinque Terre, the six-room La Sosta di Ottone III is perched in the hills at the end of a medieval village with an incredible view and authentic vibe. If 5-star is more your style, Belmond Hotel Splendido in Portofino will give you la dolce vita at its fullest.
WHERE TO EAT IN LIGURIA
Torre Aurora (Monterosso al Mare) – Seriously good fine dining with outdoor tables covered with rambling bougainvillea.
Osteria Tumelin (Levanto) – One of my absolute favorites. Seafood focused with a nice terrace and exposed brick interiors. Try the catch of the day.
L’Agave (Framura) – Perched on a cliff with insane views, this Michelin guide restaurant is great for a taste of the region away from the crowds. The octopus is not to be missed!
Nessun dorma (Manarola) – If you’re looking for a romantic place, this is definitely at the top of the list. You can sip a glass of local wine with a flawless view over one of the Cinque Terre. Unfortunately, it’s not possible to book a table, so get in line early to grab one with a view.
Trattoria dal Billy (Riomaggiore) – The very best of home cooked Ligurian food, and the closest you can get to eating with the locals.
Ristorante da Laura (San Fruttuoso) – Run by a super friendly Ligurian local, this is among the best restaurants in Liguria. You must order the homemade pasta with pesto, it’s non-negotiable. (If it’s full, run over to Da Giorgio and you’ll be equally satisfied.)
Bar Dai Muagetti (Camogli) – Built over the wild Punta Chiappa, there’s no bar with as great a view (and pampering) as this spot. Come by for aperitivo–with great snacks–and watch the sun sink into the sea.
La Langosteria (Paraggi) – From Milan to the Ligurian coast, Enrico Buonocore’s Langosteria arrived in one of the most elegant restaurants/beach clubs of the Riviera. It’s on the pricier side. Don’t miss the crab alla catalana.
Balzi Rossi (Ventimiglia) – This Michelin-guide spot, located on a steep cliff just a step away from the French border, Balzi Rossi maintains a strong Italian culinary heritage and is well-worth a stop.
U Giancu (Rapallo) – Founded by papá Giancu, mamma Rina, and aunt Lice on the green rolling hills above Rapallo, U Giancu is a country restaurant, whose atmosphere and food perfectly capture the essence of Liguria.
WHERE TO SWIM IN LIGURIA
The locals often disagree on the best spots for a great swim in the region’s crystal clear waters, which, for us, means that there are a lot of options. The places where you definitely have to dive are La Spiaggia delle Uova (near Levanto), so named because a landslide smoothed the stones, leaving them all somehow egg-shaped. Rocce Rosse isn’t a proper beach, but between Bonassola and Framura you’ll find different small coves with red stones and clear blue water. Baia Blu in Lerici offers one of the best hidden beaches of Liguria. The water here is as clear as Sardinia and is the best place for a relaxing day. For a different experience, Sori at Bagni Sillo is a bathing establishment built entirely on a cliff. If you want to swim, you have to jump from the rocks. You can also visit just for a sea-view aperitivo.
WHERE TO HIKE IN LIGURIA
Liguria has plenty of jaw-dropping promenades for those who love to walk, in varying levels. The best hikes are surely the ones in Cinque Terre that connect Monterosso to Vernazza and Vernazza to Corniglia. They are long walks, but the view is worth the length. Another great one close to the Cinque Terre is the two-thousand-step Monesteroli stairway, which passes through woods and vineyards and has been described as “The most suggestive path in the whole Liguria”. On the Ponente (western) side, trails behind the town of Laigueglia are just as beautiful but without the crowds.
