Editor’s Note: Long-time Italy Segreta Contributor Valeria Necchio shared this recipe with us from her debut cookbook, Veneto: Recipes from an Italian Country Kitchen (Guardian Faber), and we find it to be the perfect summer-into-fall cicchetti to nibble on with a glass of something crisp.

I came across this dish in a little trattoria just outside of Venice. It came as part of an antipasti spread and immediately caught my attention. It was a delight: refreshing, with just the right balance of sweetness and astringency. Raisins and pine nuts convey crunch, chew and a vague aromatic quality to the dish. Traditionally, they were an addition that occurred throughout the colder months, when a few extra calories were needed to fight the cold wind blowing across the lagoon. 

ZUCCA IN SAOR

Serves 4–6 

INGREDIENTS

• 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) dry-fleshed pumpkin (such as Delica), peeled and deseeded 
• Sunflower oil, for frying
• 30 ml (2 tablespoons) extra virgin olive oil
• 500 g (1 lb 2 oz, about 2 medium) white onions, thinly sliced
• 60 ml (1/4 cup) dry white wine
• 120 ml (1/2 cup) white wine vinegar
• 40 g (1/4 cup) raisins, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes
• 40 g (1/4 cup) pine nuts, toasted
• Fine-grain sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 

PREPARATION

1. Slice the pumpkin very finely–about 5mm (1/4 inch) thick. The finer you can cut the pumpkin, the better. Run a paring knife along the edges of each slice to remove any remaining bits of rind and stringy core. Set aside. 
2. Fill two-thirds of a medium, high-sided frying pan with sunflower oil. Place it over a medium-high heat and wait until it reaches a temperature of 180°C (350°F), which you can test with a thermometer or by inserting the handle of a wooden spoon in the oil: when small but fierce bubbles form around the handle, it’s ready.
3. Now, slip in the first batch of pumpkin slices, trying not to crowd them. Fry for 2–3 minutes each side, or until their edges appear crisp. Drain with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate covered with kitchen paper. Continue frying until you’ve finished all the slices. Sprinkle with a little salt and set aside. 
4. To make the marinade (saor), heat the olive oil in a separate frying pan. Add the sliced onions and fry gently over a medium-low heat until they appear very soft, but not browned, stirring often.
5. Pour in the wine and vinegar and season with salt and pepper. Increase the heat to medium-high and let it evaporate for a couple of minutes. 
6. In a glass bowl, arrange a layer of pumpkin. Cover with a layer of white onions and sprinkle with a few raisins (drained) and pine nuts. Repeat, in layers, until you have finished all the ingredients. Pour over any remaining cooking liquid, which will act as a marinade.
7. Leave to cool to room temperature, then wrap with cling film and place in the fridge to marinate for 24 hours, or up to 2 days. Serve at room temperature.