It’s about time to meet aglione—the massive, bulbous garlic native to Tuscany’s Valdichiana. Far gentler than common garlic, this Brobdingnagian varietal lacks that sharp bite, instead offering a soft, almost sweet taste. Perhaps its most famous role is in pici all’aglione, a tomato-rich sauce in which the allium takes center stage, clinging silkily to the region’s thick, hand-rolled noodles.

On a recent Italy Segreta team retreat, we fell for everything at Osteria da Giovanna, but the unequivocal standout was their pici all’aglione. A Slow Food-recommended, family-run restaurant just outside the city center of Arezzo, it’s named for the current owner’s grandmother, Giovanna, who first opened her grocery store here in 1954. Here, the dish is served in its most superlative form: an abundant plate with just the right amount of tomato to let the aglione shine through, finished with a scattering of crisp breadcrumbs for texture.

Harvested between June and July, aglione can be enjoyed well beyond summer (when stored properly, it keeps for up to a year), perfect for pairing with in-season tomatoes, at their peak through August. Here, the recipe for Osteria da Giovanna’s pici all’aglione, which proprietress Giulia Martini assures me “is the most traditional one possible.”

Osteria da Giovanna’s Pici all’Aglione

Serves 4-5 

INGREDIENTS

• 1 kg pici 
• 1 head fresh Valdichiana garlic (aglione), about 300-400 g
• 4-5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 2 cups vegetable stock
• 1 kg peeled tomatoes
• Salt, to taste
• Black pepper, to taste
• Chili pepper, to taste
• Crisp breadcrumbs, to garnish

PREPARATION

1. Finely mince the aglione until it forms a paste (you can use a mandoline or food processor for convenience).
2. In a deep saucepan, warm the olive oil and add the aglione paste. Let it cook gently, then pour in one cup of vegetable stock.
3. As the aglione begins to cook, you’ll notice it forming a white foam on the surface. If the paste starts to dry out over medium heat, add some of the remaining vegetable stock.
4. Once the foam evaporates and begins to “break down,” add the peeled tomatoes, crushed with a fork, and stir to combine. 
5. Continue cooking over medium heat until the tomatoes are fully cooked.
6. Season with salt, pepper, and chili to taste, and let simmer for about 1 hour, or until the sauce has reached your preferred consistency—whether you like it looser and more liquid, or thicker and denser.
7. Boil the pici (or another long pasta), drain, and toss with the sauce.
8. Finish with a sprinkle of crisp breadcrumbs, if desired.