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Food /
Italian Recipes

In Cucina: Cassata

Cassata is an architectural dish, built layer upon layer, so balance is key.”

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Editor’s Note: This beautiful, sugar-rush-inducing recipe is excerpted from The Food of Sicily by Fabrizia Lanza (Artisan Books). Copyright © 2023. Photographs by Guy Ambrosino.

This sponge cake filled with ricotta cream perfectly illustrates the circuitous path of so many Sicilian pastries that started with a humble ingredient and ended up as an artful confection, in this case decorated with a bright green marzipan belt, glossy white icing, and, most notably, a colorfully baroque decoration of candied fruits. Cassata is an architectural dish, built layer upon layer, so balance is key: A cook must strive to create a cake in which all the flavors are present in each mouthful, with none overpowering another. What helps set a great cassata off from a merely good one is homemade marzipan, which should sing with the rich butteriness of pistachios and almonds. (Fortunately, making marzipan is an easy task.) Traditionally cassata is built in a specific type of sloped pan, which at the bottom has a number (1, 2, 3, etc.) according to the number of kilos one’s cassata is going to weigh; however, a deep-dish pie plate will also work. Once the pinnacle of Sicilian Easter desserts, cassata is now eaten all year round.

CASSATA

Serves 8-10

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE SPONGE CAKE

  • Softened butter and flour, for the pan
  • 6 large eggs, at room temperature
  • ¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar
  • Finely grated zest of 1 orange 1 cup (120 g) cake flour, sifted

FOR THE MARZIPAN

  • 2⁄3 cup (100 g) pistachios
  • 1½ cups (150 g) almond flour
  • ¾ cup (90 g) powdered sugar, plus more for dusting
  • 2 tablespoons water
  • 1 teaspoon corn syrup or honey
  • Green food coloring

FOR ASSEMBLY

  • 2 tablespoons limoncello or Grand Marnier
  • 2 cups (500 g) whole-milk ricotta cheese
  • 1⁄3 cup (70 g) granulated sugar

FOR DECORATION

  • 1½ cups (180 g) powdered sugar
  • 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
  • Candied fruit

PREPARATION

MAKE THE SPONGE CAKE:

  1. Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter and flour a 9-inch (23 cm) springform pan.
  2. In a stand mixer fitted with a whisk, beat the eggs until very light and creamy, about 10 minutes. Add the granulated sugar and orange zest and continue to beat until a ribbon falls slowly from the whisk when lifted, about 5 minutes more. In two or three additions, gently fold in the flour. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top.
  3. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Let the cake cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.
  4. Meanwhile, make the marzipan: In a food processor, blend the pistachios until very finely ground. Transfer to a large bowl and mix in the almond flour and powdered sugar. Make a well in the center and add the water, corn syrup, and a few drops of food coloring.
  5. Mix to form a smooth dough. Dust a work surface with powdered sugar and roll out the dough into a rectangle about 6 by 10 inches (15 by 25 cm) and between 1⁄s and ¼ inch (3 and 6 mm) thick. Cut 3 strips that are about 2 inches (5 cm) wide and 10 inches (25 cm) long. Knead any remaining marzipan dough into a ball, wrap it in plastic wrap, and store in the refrigerator for another use.

ASSEMBLE THE CAKE:

  1. Line a 9-inch (23 cm) cassata pan or springform with plastic wrap. Arrange the marzipan strips along the inside rim of the pan, slightly overlapping the ends. Press them against the pan to form a smooth layer.
  2. When the cake is cool, trim off the crust from the top, bottom, and sides. Cut the cake vertically into slices ½ inch (1.25 cm) thick. Arrange a layer of cake slices on the bottom of the pan, cutting pieces to fill the space completely. Drizzle half of the limoncello over the cake layer.
  3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the ricotta and granulated sugar until well combined and smooth. Spread the ricotta cream evenly over the limoncello-soaked cake layer. Arrange another layer of cake slices on top and drizzle with the remaining limoncello.
  4. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or overnight.
  5. Invert the cake onto a serving plate. Carefully lift off the pan and peel away the plastic wrap.
  6. Prepare the decoration: Sift half of the powdered sugar into a bowl. Stir in half of the lemon juice, breaking up any lumps. Sift the remaining sugar into the bowl and add the rest of the lemon juice, mixing until the icing is smooth and shiny with a thin, spreading consistency.
  7. Spread the icing across the top of the cassata, leaving the marzipan sides visible. Decorate with whole and cut candied fruit. Refrigerate the cassata until set, 1 to 2 hours, before serving.

NOTES

  • For a modern presentation and a fresh take, decorate the cassata with pomegranate seeds in place of the candied fruit.
  • In place of commercial food coloring, a small amount of spinach puree can be used to tint the marzipan.
  • The cassata can be made 1 day ahead and refrigerated until ready to serve.

Cassata; Photography by Guy Ambrosino

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