Spring in Rome brings promises of longer days, Easter celebrations, and green leaves budding on the trees along the Tiber, but the real stars of the season are artichokes. Grown really only from February to April in Lazio, the cimaroli or mammole of the IGP Romanesco variety are known as some of the best in the world: less thorny, without the pesky choke, and larger, this variety is perfect for stuffing, eating raw, or–as the Jewish community in Rome learned–frying. In the Roman dialect, this dish translates to “artichokes Jewish-style”, and it emerged during the 16th century from the Jewish ghetto in the city and local Romans became infatuated. It’s the simpler, crispier counterpart to Carciofi alla Romana and the city’s most prized vegetable dish. Many locals and restaurants have their own versions–some add black pepper, some do a double fry–but our recipe below is the most traditional: the only challenge is finding the right artichokes and knowing how to clean them.
ITALY SEGRETA’S CARCIOFI ALLA GIUDIA
Serves 4
INGREDIENTS
- 4 whole artichokes
- 2 lemons
- Olive oil, for frying
- Salt
PREPARATION
- Fill a large bowl with cold water and the juice of two lemons (the acid will prevent oxidation and discoloration).
- Clean the artichokes. Start by removing the tough outer leaves until you reach the tender, pale inner leaves. Then, cut off the top quarter of the artichoke and trim the stems, leaving about an inch. Using a vegetable peeler (or a paring knife), peel the cut edges of the leaves and the stem until smooth. Trim off any thorny tips from the remaining leaves, especially in the center (you can do this easily with some scissors). Place each cleaned and trimmed artichoke in the lemon water immediately.
- Gently open and spread apart the leaves of each artichoke (this helps the seasoning and oil penetrate, creating a crispier dish).
- Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a deep frying pan or pot, about 8 cm deep; you need enough oil to submerge the artichokes completely.
- Carefully pat dry the artichokes with paper towels. It’s essential to remove as much moisture as possible to prevent the hot oil from splattering.
- When the oil reaches 190°C (be careful not to go past this point or the oil will start to smoke), carefully place the artichokes in one at a time, with the stems facing up. Fry until crispy and golden brown, about 4-5 minutes for smaller ones and 5-6 minutes for bigger ones. (You can also check if they’re done by sticking a fork into the heart; it should pass through easily.)
- Remove the artichokes from the oil and place them, leaves side down, on a plate lined with paper towels to absorb excess oil.
- Sprinkle the artichokes generously with salt while they’re still hot and serve. They can be enjoyed as they are or with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice for extra oomph.
Note: The entire artichoke is edible. DO NOT leave its heart behind.