Milan’s answer to Turin’s bicerin, this frothy drink is made up of coffee, chocolate, and milk–sweetened and topped with a mound of whipped cream. The barbajada (sometimes seen as barbagliata) was invented in the early 19th century by waiter Domenico Barbaja, whose concoction was so popular that he would go on to open one of the most famous literary cafés, Caffé dei Virtuosi in the ritzy Piazza Scala, and achieve his dreams of becoming a theatrical impresario. It’s said that Vittorio Emanuele I himself would never start his day without a barbajada for breakfast. 

In vogue until the mid-20th century, the barbajada was had cold in the summer and hot in the winter though, today, not many cafés serve the rich drink, and, when they do, it’s almost always the hot version. One of our favorite interpretations–and this recipe–comes from the glamorous Pasticceria Cova, and their historic bartender Ottone Kleon, on Via Monte Napoleone, where the coffee is added on request; their classic barbajada is made without it, but we recommend trying it with. (Cova also happens to be one of the best places to have breakfast in Milan or pick up a panettone!) 

PASTICCERIA COVA’S BARBAJADA

Makes 1

INGREDIENTS

• 3/4 cup drinking chocolate made with bitter chocolate (80% recommended) and a little sugar; you want it to be a very thick consistency
• 1 shot of espresso (optional)
• 1/4 cup milk
• Fresh whipped cream (optional)

PREPARATION

• Fill cup 3/4 of the way with drinking chocolate. Add espresso if using. Heat up milk, and beat vigorously with a whisk until frothy. Pour over the chocolate mixture. 
• Serve with fresh whipped cream, if desired.