This slab of coastline, under the deep, dark shadow of Vesuvius, is a labyrinth effect of the grandeur. The crumbling archways, lanes of lemons, and sharp cliffs can get overlooked compared to the glitz of Amalfi’s other towns, but head up steep stoney steps and over cobbled slopes for unparalleled, eye-watering cliffside scenes across the Tyrenhian bay to the twinkling lights of Naples and the volcano beyond. It’s easy to follow those ahead of you, but steer past the masses to truly discover Sorrento’s stories.
A terrain steeped in ruined history, and lots of citrus fruits, it was the Greeks who first founded Surrentum around the 7th century BC. It was a land where sirens sweetly sang songs to lure in notable adventurer Odysseus on his adventures and where poet Torqueto Tasso was born to write his famous poems. A post-pasta stroll might lead to vivacious villas or grand temples built by Italy’s Mediterranean sibling and they’ve stood the test of time, through rule of the Turks and the sacking of the Ottomans. But fast forward to the 19th century and Sorrento is thriving once again, so much so that luminaries including Keats, Dickens, and Byron all holidayed here.
Here is how to really get under Sorrento’s 21st century skin, and where thoughtful planning will help to hide away from the crowds.
WHERE TO EAT IN SORRENTO
Antonino Esposito Pizza e Cucina – Smack dab in the middle of busy Sorrento port and overlooking the epicenter of pizza culture–Naples–Antonino Esposito Pizza e Cucina wears the culinary crown. The creative genius behind it? Chef Antonino Esposito, who has reimagined the art of pizza and crafts careful flavored dough and inventive shapes including his famous “whip,” the donut, and the bouquet. The recently renovated kitchen also serves Campanian staples plus less-traditional dishes of sushi–but the pizza–topped with local, seasonal ingredients–is really the star. Don’t miss out on the dough of the month that Antonino has on the blackboard or try his special pie with red and yellow pomodori del piennolo, fresh mozzarella, and salty colatura di alici.
L’Agrumeto – Inside the oldest five-star hotel in the Sorrento Peninsula, La Cocumella, this poolside restaurant is immersed in a centuries-old citrus grove overlooking the sea. Here, brightly colored plates of classic dishes from the area compliment the white and blue color palette of the tables, chairs, and pool deck. The organic produce comes from their adjacent vegetable garden, and their pizzas are fired in an outdoor wood oven.
Raki – The best gelato shop in town. Despite being on busy Via S. Cesareo, which spills into Piazza Tasso, it’s far from those airy mounds of ice cream you might find at other more inauthentic gelaterias. The ricotta with walnuts and honey is worth the climb up alone, as is fig with almond and bay leaf.
La Torre ‘One Fire’ – It’s a narrow and twisty drive up to this family-run restaurant that overlooks Capri. An ode to characterful owner Tonino Mazzola’s nickname, it’s not a meal without a conversation with his wife Donna Maria who will be sure to send over enormous plates of her seafood pasta special and the fluffiest tiramisu around.
Lo Stuzzichino – A drive out of town, this osteria lies at the heart of the little village of Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi. Find father-and-son-duo chef Paolo and Mimmo De Gregorio at the helm and in the kitchen crafting Slow Food staples like Sorrento-style sweet stuffed bell peppers or lemon ravioli with clams. Any dish with Gamberetto di Nassa di Crappola, the bright pink shrimps found in the deep caves of the coast, should also be ordered.
Don Alfonso 1890 – Don Alfonso knows a thing or two about wine. And while they have a cellar with over 25,000 bottles hidden in the bellies of the 6th-century tunnels beneath, owners Alfonso Laccarino and his wife Livia are really known for putting more sophisticated fine dining on the Campanian map. Food is still seasonal, and celebrates the ingredients and produce of the peninsula (they harvest their EVOO on their organic farm Le Peracciole over in Punta Campanella) but now son and chef Ernesto puts a serious spin to keep it two Michelin stars. You might find spaghetti with Carpione-style mackerel, Sicilian pine nuts, and caramelized onions or smoked yellowtail with wild orange flower and a concert of lemons to finish. They have a few rooms to spend the night in when you’re too full to leave.
Torre del Saracino – In a stone-walled medieval tower, this two-starred restaurant, under the direction of Chef Gennaro Esposito, serves some of the greatest zuppa di pesce. With sweeping views from its supreme vantage point in Vico Equense, the inside is elegant but unfussy, a clean, brightly lit space to enjoy your tasting menu or a la carte orders.
WHERE TO SLEEP IN SORRENTO
Maison la Minervetta – The most eclectic, and funkiest, place to bed down. And high on drama, Minervetta stands out for its blue, white, and red interiors–the vision of owner and architect Marco de Luca. Stylish young couples and artistic types come here for snaps of the tiled breakfast room, filled with colorful ceramics, breezy nautical object d’art, and fresh-out-the-oven crostata. With only 12 rooms, it’s an intimate feel. You can climb down the 300 steps to the beach or claim a spot by the beautiful Italianate pool.
Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria – A grand dame through and through. The Excelsior stands tall above the Bay of Naples with its imposing and signature bright red hotel letters. It’s possibly the prettiest terrace to sit at for a drink–order a Negroni, they are made fresh at your table–and snack on very crunchy crisps. It’s a place to be spoiled, and, remarkably, it’s still family run, so you’ll feel right at home.
Marina Piccola 73 – A special, family-run B&B smack dab in the middle of Marina Piccola harbor, ideally near the ferry and sea front. It’s a simple, laid-back affair, with a stunningly relaxed terrace to feast on Chef Donatella’s artichoke tarts and baked cakes. It lacks spaces to fully spend time in (no pool, no lobby) but rooms are charming, views across the coastline are exquisite, and the hospitality is unrivaled.
Relais Regina Giovanna – Regina Giovanna feels like the Sorrento secret no one wants to share. Just far enough from the chaos of the center, this farmhouse still features traces of an ancient Roman villa and is about a 10-minute drive along the coast. They also have their own beach, so after a sampling of their olive oil, a swim in the Tyrrhenian would be remiss. Plus, it’s a hotel that won’t break the bank.
Maison il Conservatorio – The epitome of Italian culture, this hidden hideout just steps from the sea, blends historic heritage with a modern touch. Once a pious place for the less privileged girls of Sorrento, the ancient building has been left intact over the years. Inside, it’s a pretty blue-and-white pattern party (they actually worked with the same architect as Maison La Minervetta). They’ve also got a dreamy sunset rooftop that only those-in-the-know go to.
Torre Cangiani – An organic agroturismo in the Massa Lubrense, Torre Cangiani was once a saracen tower built during the 16th century. The no-frills, incredibly simple spot is off-the-beaten-path and one for those who want to slow down in one of the four rooms or to take over the apartment that overlooks the lemon grove and ancient rows of olive trees. It’s pleasantly far from the fancier and boutique stays over in the port.
WHERE TO SWIM IN THE SEA IN SORRENTO
Bagni Regina Giovanna – Down the main winding road out of Sorrento, there’s a tucked-away dive spot through some Roman Ruins. It takes a good hike to get to this headland swim hole–go easy on the set of steep stairs–but, once you’re there, it’s the perfect place for hot stone dives and sea cove exploring. More of a local spot, but the secret is sadly out.
Bagni Sant’Anna – A cool spot to spend the day sipping a spritz in between deep blue swims. Filled more with leathery-skinned donnas rather than foreigners, so you know you’re in the right place. Come evening, the beach club turns into a seafood-focused restaurant (order the fish stew or sautèed clams).
Bagni Salvatore – Walk past the colorful piers that dot Sorrento’s beach line, through red-and-yellow striped Lionelli’s, and you’ll reach Salvatore. It’s an old-school spot, tucked away in the archeological ruins of the Agrippa Posthumous villa. Book ahead in the summer months and spend all morning diving into the waves and watching golden-skinned kids splashing about.
IF YOU HAVE TIME…
Take a day trip to Capri, only a 20 minute ferry ride from Sorrento. Swim in the gin-clear coves or follow Italy Segreta’s itinerary here.
Head to the finger-pointing tip of the Sorrentine Peninsula, in Massa Lubrense, for swirling bowls of spaghetti alla nerano at Lo Scoglio.
