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Freshwater Feelings: Seeking a Swim Away from the Coast

Pools, rivers, waterfalls, and creeks for an inland adventure

“For a country that has ​​7,600 kilometers of coastline, Italy also has a surprising abundance of freshwater, what Italians call acqua dolce (literally “sweet water”).”

A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, jam, coffee on a rumpled white-sheeted hotel bed; visible hotel logos in soft light. A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, and berries sits on a white bed; Hotel d’Inghilterra Roma logo appears on the right.

Photography by Chris Boland

I guarantee that closing your eyes and imagining an Italian summer looks something like this: waterfronts and stabilimenti polka-dotted with beachgoers, ombré hues of clear blues lapping against rocks, colorful façades framing the scene. It’s an undeniably iconic and ever-increasingly popular choice to head to the coast under the sweltering Italian summer sun, no matter if you’re a local or a tourist.

But this is not to say that the seasonal hubbub of an Italian beach is for everyone. Perhaps it’s just too crowded, and finding prime real estate on a public beach is as difficult as finding it in Florence’s city center. Perhaps it’s because sand gets kicked onto your towel, into your hair, atop your food. Or, maybe the price, distance, parking, and traffic are just too much to handle. Maybe the energy of the coast is a little less dolce far niente than you’d like. If you seek the relief of a summertime swim but crave more solitude, peace, and a different kind of beauty instead, look no further than the freshwater sources of inland Italy. 

For a country that has ​​7,600 kilometers of coastline, Italy also has a surprising abundance of freshwater, what Italians call acqua dolce (literally “sweet water”). From wooded river streams to lakes (flip to the next page for some stunning ones up north), lush waterfalls to hot springs, these landlocked escapes offer a serene reward for those willing to venture outside of the classic coastal retreat. 

Here, some of our favorite lesser-known freshwater escapes. 

A word to the wise: these are just a few of the practically limitless options in Italy for inland swims; you can find spots for a dip that are closer to you with a little searching on your maps’ satellite mode.

Saturnia

PIEDMONT

For crystal-clear, goosebump-inducing water, head north to Piedmont. Spilling down from the Western Alps, the Tumpi di Bobbio Pellice pools lie an hour southwest of Turin, nearly on the French-Italian border. Massive and wide, the smooth sun-bleached boulders direct the flow down the mountainside, dropping into deep, cool pools perfect for a refreshing plunge. As the water curls and pools progressively down its stony path, visitors can find their own nooks and crannies to set up camp for the day, whether on the sunlit rocks along the waterfront or those tucked among the wooded forest just beyond. 

Farther down in Piedmont, the Torrente Gesso creek in Cuneo makes for a slower flow in some areas, creating jutted peninsulas of rock, sand, and greenery ideal for families with young ones or those wanting a shallow dip. Accessible via the city’s riverside park, it’s easy to bring gear and set up for a whole day (which should include a walk through the beautiful, well-planned public space). The green and sometimes tannic water reverberates its natural surroundings: perched birds seeking vulnerable fish, smooth and colorful river rocks, the endless sound of rushing water, bees buzzing from bud to bud. It’s a pleasant reprieve for such a centrally located spot. 

Pozze Smeraldine

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA

Those willing to travel a bit more off-grid for their landlocked retreat may find joy in the Pozze Smeraldine in the northeast. These emerald pools are tucked in the hills of Tramonti di Sopra within the waterfall-rich Parco Naturale Dolomiti Friulane. Nearly Irish green in color, the waters seem as if they should be spouting from some deep, tropical lake, yet are surprisingly shallow, frigid, and gentle. Wide expanses of time-carved rock shaped by the water’s flow create an obstacle course-like scenery, completed by thick, tall greenery in the surrounding hills. Layers of warped stone provide shelves of multiple depths, perfect for lounging and cooling down after the sun-soaked pebble waterfronts. 

MARCHE

Moving farther south into Marche, you may (literally) cross the Fiume Metàuro, meandering lazily across the region. Along the water, particularly in smaller towns like Castello della Pieve, bends in the river create comfortable, easily accessible bathing spots. A bit further down, the Cascata del Sasso waterfall spills over, breaking the slow-going river into an attraction of beautiful movement, accompanied by an old mill and picnic and hiking spaces.

Fiume Metauro

CAMPANIA

Instead of the stoic, rocky paradises of the north, the south yields dense, wild, and unexpected tropical-like water sources. Take, for example, the edge of the Parco Nazionale del Cilento, Vallo di Diano e Alburni. Fittingly named after the goddess’s hair, Oasi Cascate Capelli di Venere has whimsy, dreamy surroundings only missing mythical sirens and sprites. Dripping moss spills water into a sun-dappled emerald pool–an expansive waterfall display straight out of a fairytale. 

SARDINIA

Equally fantastic displays are the waterfalls and pools of the Rio Pitrisconi in Sardinia. Smooth-faced boulders trickled over by tannic waters, vegetation sprouting from unexpected cracks and crevices, natural and secluded infinity pools, and an overlook into the countryside that flows into the Tyrrhenian Sea–quintessentially magnificent, as Sardinia can only be. This spot, however, is not for the faint of heart; the trek in the diverse and challenging landscape rewards only those who are willing to make the venture. 

These watering holes, so to speak, provide ample options for inland adventures this summer–not just for acqua dolce dips, but also for the opportunities they offer hikers, birders, foragers, and trekkers. Reveling in an Italian coastal celebration for a weekend is great, but there is something equally as wonderful to be said for freshwater feelings. 

Tumpi di Bobbio Pellice

Torrente Gesso

Pozze Smeraldine

Fiume Metauro

Cascata del Sasso

Oasi Cascate Capelli di Venere

Rio Pitrisconi