Trattoria Cammillo — An old-school, timeless classic, one of those places “che non passano mai di moda” (that never goes out of fashion). It is iconic, first and foremost, for its wonderful owner Chiara, and also for its waiters–some of whom have been there for over 30 years–and for its seasonal simple dishes and mind-blowing desserts. Here, you can also find plenty of gluten free options, recipes created due to Chiara’s own intolerance. 

Must Order: Fritti (don’t miss out on the fried fiore di zucca), curry chicken, rapa / sedano with bottarga (when in season), frittata with carciofi or funghi, and make sure to leave space for their desserts: chocolate cake, tiramisu, crostata ai frutti di bosco, torta alle mele…just order all of them.

Cibreo Caffè e Trattoria — In the hip neighbourhood of Sant’Ambrogio, a Florentine certainty resides here since 1979. Opt for the trattoria and if you want something slightly more fancy, with ample choices of pasta dishes head to the nearby cafè. Start off with a round of antipasti for the table with a double order of fegatini, tagliolini cacio e burro and top it off with their torta al cioccolato. 

Must Order: Antipasti, tagliolino cacio e burro and the braciola taglio bistecca. 

Trattoria Sostanza — The epitome of cucina povera done right, where less is more, a limited menu, strict hours (2pm is already too late).  *closed on Sundays 

Must Order: Tortellini in brodo, pollo al burro (butter chicken) and il tortino di carciofi.

Enoteca Spontanea — Nicola, sommelier and wonderful host and his sister Irene, chef and baker, magically run this small little food and wine jewel in the Oltrarno. Here, as the restaurant’s name hints, the atmosphere is spontaneous and warm — no wifi,  hip ambience, FANTASTIC natural wine selection (let Nicola advise you) and a menu that changes daily. Exactly the innovative young spot Florence needed, where the bread is neither stale nor unsalted and where the menu is always a pleasant surprise.

Must Order: Pate di fegatini di pollo con composta di arance e pane tostato 

Trattoria Sabatino — On a sunny day, newspaper in hand, we love to soak in the sun and enjoy a homemade meal seated at one of the pea green tables of this long-lasting neighborhood spot. Temper your expectations: it might not blow your mind culinarily, but it’s a standby for simple, homemade dishes. Skip the primi and go for a selection of secondi with contorni (especially the patate al forno!) 

Must Order: (when in season and on the menu) il roastbeef con patate, i gobbi in umido and on Friday’s, le acciughe alla marinara

Teatro Del Sale —Fun, food & entertainment, at Teatro Del Sale you will be entertained by a show (mostly stand-up comedy) and served plenty of food. Maria Callas show is hilarious but if you haven’t aced your Italian just yet, opt for the Sunday brunch. A real Tuscan feast! 

Da Burde — An evergreen in the outskirts of Florence. A spot you don’t randomly fall into, but you purposely go to. One of the most renowned and long standing Florentine restaurants — a point of reference for Florentines and for those who truly love Tuscan cuisine. Eat casually by the bar (our favorite), chose the dishes of the day or discover their menu in the cosy wood-clad restaurant.

Must Order: One of their minestre (particularly love their pasta e fagioli), Tagliatelle al ragù bianco di Chianina, the Peposo or il bollito, and the fig tart and castagnaccio when in season. 

C-ucina —Two architects turned into chefs, a garage turned into a beautifully designed Copenhagen style restaurant. Every day a different creative menu with plates to be shared — a place for who craves a Sunday lunch “fuori dalla norma” different from the traditional Florentine restaurants.

Regina Bistecca — Atmosphere, atmosphere, atmosphere, a mix between old school NY feel with a bar (one of the few where to enjoy a meal solo) and a legit Florentine steak — strictly rare and cooked on burning carbon. You’ll definitely be coming back for more, enough times to be gifted your own engraved steak knife.

Must Order: Bistecca accompanied by all the sides! 

Il Santino — In the Diladdarno, on the left side of the river, encased in a former wine cellar, this cozy wine bar is ideal for an aperitivo and great for a quick lunch.

Must Order: The crostone with pancetta, pecorino e miele 

Trattoria Mossacce – This tight spot features a daily changing menu, some of the fastest service in the city, and all the Florentine classics. We particularly love it on chilly days. 

Must Order: Salsiccie e fagioli, arista e patate

Alla Vecchia Bettola — One room, communal tables, simple, chaotic, rustic, home cooked goodness, jugs of Chianti at each table to freely enjoy for four euro each. A real Tuscan feast.  

Must Order: Artichokes, penne alla vecchia bettola, and torta alle mele 

Dalla Lola — A cozy, hearty, tiny trattoria behind Santo Spirito. This spot has a young, vibrant energy, and the daily menu embraces seasonal Tuscan produce seasoned with foreign flavors like curry or za’atar. Plus, they have a great selection of natural wines. 

Must Order: If available, the pappardelle al sugo finto and the torta pere e cioccolato

Trattoria La Casalinga — Don’t expect much, but a solid, casual traditional meal. We love it best during the warmer months when we can sit outside and enjoy the buzzing Santo Spirito neighborhood. 

Must Order: La pasta con le tre “P”, arista di maiale and peposo all’impruneta

Trattoria Ruggero — Quite off the radar but a true local favorite, the decor stuck in the 70’s, the menu handwritten, the food solid, filling, simple, Tuscan. We keep going back for the nostalgic feel of a Sunday lunch di altri tempi (of other times) and for the pork arista, thick, hot, juicy, roasted and greasy to the right point… makes the hike worthwhile. 

Must Order: Farinata di cavolo nero (kale), spaghetti alla carrettiera, arista, carciofi al tegame and patate arrosto

Sergio Gozzi — Doesn’t get more real than this, a relic of old Florence in the heart of the city. Satisfying locals and tourists since 1915, when Antonio Gozzi inherited the restaurant. Initially he just served a few soups and beans, later the menu was enriched with boiled meat which was served once a week. Today their menu is slightly more varied but still sticking to this region’s culinary traditions: solid, substantial and tasty. *closed for dinner and all day on Sundays

Must Order: I pici and il peposo

Casa Del Vino — The name says it all: “The Home of Wine” literally and figuratively. A Rustic, wood-lined wine bar run by Gianni and Nicoletta, who make sure you are quenched, well fed and part of the conversation. 

I’Brindellone — solid and simple a real tuscan experience. Named after a unique Easter Florentine tradition (not to miss) this restaurant is the place where to enjoy the cucina povera in a  lively convivial room strewn with sports memorabilia.

Must Order: The homemade crema di mascarpone

L’Angolo del Mare —  The corner of the sea, literally and physically —  one of the few great seafood restaurants in Florence located in a quiet corner in the residential neighbourhood of Coverciano. This hidden gem is a great option for when in need of a bistecca break.

Must Order: Un’assaggio di antipasti 

Osteria Vini e Vecchi Sapori — small, hidden and on point. As the menu states, in this restaurant located in a tiny alley behind Piazza della Signoria, there is no: pizza, ice, takeaway, phone signal, Wi-Fi, cappuccino spritz, virus and/or war — take it or leave it and if you are asking us you should take it and…

Must Order: Their pappardelle al sugo d’anatra (duck ragout pasta)

Il Vecchio e il Mare – Named after the famous Hemingway novel, this pizzeria and fish restaurant brings the taste of Naples to Florence. Chef Mario Cipriano has been making pizzas since he was 16 and pays close attention to ingredients, working closely with a mill to source the flour for the dough–which is a bit drier than the typical Neapolitan style–and using slow food presidium products. The restaurant is one of the few to have an entire section dedicated to gluten free pizzas–which are the best versions we’ve found in Florence–along with an astonishing 100-plus label wine list.

Trattoria Mario – Spartan, noisy, and rough around the edges, this trattoria behind the San Lorenzo market shines in a piazza of tourist traps. Opened by Romeo, Amelia, and their son Mario in 1953, it perfectly represents the Florence that refuses to give into mass tourism. Under oak wood ceilings that date back to the mid-1500s, you’ll sit elbow-to-elbow on small wooden stools and enjoy a smattering of local dishes. Reservations, if you happen to snag one, are ONLY possible by calling from 7 AM to 10:30 AM. Remember: once you step inside, it’s always “Forza Viola”!

Must orders: The bean and vegetable soup, roasted chicken, steak, and tortelli with meat ragù. The fish is also worth trying, but it must be ordered in advance from Tuesday onwards — otherwise, you’ll only find it on Fridays. 

Alimentari – Marked by a simple block-letter sign and the glow of the refrigerated case lining the entrance, this aptly named alimentari is a must for lunchtime panini of salami, cheese, oil-cured veggies, and—our favorite—lingua. There’s a few tables under the vaulted brick ceilings in the back where you can stand and eat, and you can pick up a bottle of wine and some other cured goodies to-go.

TECUM – This hip gastronomia is a quick, easy spot with plenty of classic, vegetarian, and fulfilling options either to-go or to sit and enjoy. An array of interesting food combinations makes the place feel young, dynamic, and fresh, but all the locals reminds you you’re in Florence.

FLORENCE SURROUNDINGS

LeLune – You can’t get much closer to the source of your food than at LeLune: the restaurant at the foot of the hill leading to Fiesole is built inside a lush nursery of the Barbialla and Fontallerta farms, which supply nearly all of the food for the modern, artistic menu: Chianina meat, white truffles, and game come from Barbialla, olive oil from Fontallerta, and herbs and flowers from LeLune. No matter the time of year, this lush, green dining room is a tranquil, rejuvenating space (plus their view overlooking Florence is pretty noteworthy, too).

Must Order: Whatever is in season

Da Delfina — In the small town of Artimino on the hills of Montalbano, resides one of the last real Tuscans: “Il Signor Carlo Cioni” who with his family runs one of the best restaurants in the outskirts of Florence (30 min drive.)  Is a location worthy of a screenplay: a field of olive trees, the majestic Medici villa of Artimino and the story of grandmother Delfina – from maidservant to successful restaurateur – to not mention the food!

Must Order:  La Francesina, Il piatto del buon ricordo and the rice cake with orange jam

Antica Macelleria Cecchini — In Panzano in Chianti, a 45 minute drive from Florence’s city center, there is Il mitico Dario, a butcher, a grand personality, a kind man who truly deeply loves and breathes meat. A man who takes his job as a butcher very seriously and who believes in zero waste, especially when it comes to an animal: “L’è tutto bono anche le ossa” (Everything is good even the bones). So get ready for a deep dive into his world made of meat delicacies you’ve never tried before and quality you will never forget.

Must Order: Book the experience at the restaurant Solociccia

Bottega di Rosano — Our secret spot for una bella scampagnata fuori porta (a beautiful escape). Schiacciata a go go, have Matteo make you one and enjoy it to go or right by the counter. If not, sit in the back for a full meal and leave some space for their daily homemade cakes.

Da Padellina — A terrace on the Chianti hills. In all honesty, and this is a big one, no matter how sunny it is outside we rather sit in the dining room on the ground floor where the owner, between dishes, gives us verses from Dante’s Divina Commedia which he impressively knows all by heart!

Must Order: Le penne sul gallo, la bistecca with the various side dishes and the zuccotto (a typical Florentine dessert) 

Trattoria del Pesce — in the midst of the tuscan hills, 30 min drive from Florence in the town of Bargino, you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find a fantastic family run seafood restaurant.

Must Order: Antipasto della Trattoria, crudi and spaghetti vongole e bottarga 

Ristorante Tullio a Montebeni – A charming town right by Fiesole, Montebeni is surrounded by agricultural fields and woods. On the narrow, curved Via di Ontignano running through the middle of town, farmers and hunters used to meet at the family-run “La Bottega di Tullio”. The bottega first opened in 1958; however, Tullio’s grandparents, Mario and Emilia, began to make “hot food” for their clientele, often with the animals they caught on their hunt. Slowly, their grocery store transformed into the Tuscan trattoria it is today. Closed on Mondays and open for lunch on the weekend; book your spot in advance!

Must Order: Spaghetti Cavalieri, bistecca fritta, patate arrosto, salvia fritta, and cheesecake with nonna’s blackberry jam tart, best enjoyed with a glass of vin santo