One of our favorite questions to be asked is “Cono or coppetta?” (“Cone or cup?”) Here in Florence, it’s a decision that locals have been making for centuries.
Florence’s Renaissance saw the rise of culinary experimentation and indulgence, and frozen desserts were a luxury enjoyed by the elite: the semi-frozen “sorbetto”, made by combining fruit juices or purees with sugar and occasionally spices, was the most popular. (Noblewoman Catherine de’ Medici so loved the stuff that she brought it to France–at age 14!–when she married the future King Henry II, eventually contributing to the development of French ice cream.)
It wasn’t until the late 16th century that gelato as we know it came around. For our favorite creamy treat, we can thank Bernardo Buontalenti, the Medici’s architect and the Mannerist behind Prato’s Villa Medici, the Tribune in the Uffizi, and the Jewish Ghetto of Florence. To woo some visiting Spanish ambassadors, Grand Duke Cosimo I de’ Medici ordered Buontalenti to organize a grand banquet, and the architect invented a new dessert just for the occasion. The celebratory frozen cream was made with milk, egg, honey, lemon, sugar, ice, a dash of wine, salt (to lower the mixture’s temperature) and flavored with bergamot and orange. Adding eggs and milk to the traditional fruit and ice mixture was an innovation, resulting in a smoother and more velvety texture.
A lauded engineer and mathematician, Buontalenti is also credited with building a sort of manual whisk that made it easier to whip the cream as well as Florence’s primary ice conservation infrastructure. Via delle Ghiacciaie, literally “ice-house street”, near Fortezza da Basso was named for his ice cellars.
Gelato culture in Florence continued to thrive throughout the centuries, and today, there are more superlative options than ever. (Thank goodness for the freezer!) Innovative options like passion fruit and matcha can be found, as can fantastic versions of traditional flavors: go for pistacchio, cioccolato, or Buontalenti, an eggy cream flavor named after the famed inventor and also known as “crema fiorentina”.
Just beware the neon-colored, high-piled gelato on streets like Via Por Santa Maria; these are chock-full of preservatives. To taste the good stuff, head to one of these 10 spots–from age-old establishments to rising stars–that uphold the tradition of artisanal craftsmanship with high-quality ingredients:
La Gelatiera – On Via dei Ginori, La Gelatiera is one of the newest and lesser-known gelaterias on our list, and it was one of our immediate favorites. Seasonal fruit, creamy nut, and a few innovative, wildcard flavors are always available. To switch it up, we go for the likes of peanut, matcha, or tigernut. Don’t forget to look up before you leave: bet you’ve never been to a gelateria with frescoed ceilings before.
La Sorbettiera – You can’t go wrong at La Sorbettiera. On hot summer days, the limone e salvia (lemon and sage) might just be Florence’s most refreshing flavor, and their chocolate flavors are unmatched. Their signature catrame is a deep, almost pudding-like chocolate, but the dairyless, mono-origin flavors are also fantastic. The “Basic” will get you a wafer cone, and the “Piccolo” a sugar cone; we prefer the latter. There are two locations: one in Piazza Tasso, behind which is their artisanal gelato lab, and one right off of Piazza Santo Spirito.
Gelateria della Passera – This charming little spot in a local-favorite piazza is one of the best in the city–and it’s no secret. Lines can get long, but it’s more than worth it (try going at an off-hour for no wait). Expect pure flavors: the coffee is bitter (so much so that the scooper might tell you it’s more espresso than coffee), the grapefruit is sour, the melon is fresh, and the pistachio is the nuttiest we’ve had. We like to sit with our cones on one of the benches in the pizza and watch life go by.
Sbrino – Part of the Santo Bevitore family, Sbrino is an Oltrarno staple for well-executed classics. Pistacchio, coffee, and zabaione are all fantastic, but it’s the raspberry-ginger that’s made the list of our top flavors in town.
Edoardo Il Gelato Biologico – If you’re at the Duomo and want gelato, please don’t choose those aforementioned tourist traps with fake-flavored gelato. Right by the backside of the church, this little spot uses certified organic ingredients, km0 when possible, and offers flavors that are rare to find dairy-free, like pistacchio and arachidi croccanti (crunchy peanuts). They also just opened a second location on Via dè Guicciardini. Cone is the way to go: they’re made in-house, waffle-style, and the toasty smell of their production fills the shop.
Gelateria dei Medici – Here, fruit reigns supreme. Adding another option to our cone/cup question, Gelateria dei Medici offers the famous fruttini, halved fruits filled with gelato. Try something more classic like the filled orange, or branch out and spring for the dragonfruit. Gelateria dei Medici has two locations: the original is by Firenze Statuto station, and the newest can be found in Piazza Beccaria.
Gelateria Vivoli – Many proud Florentines would say you haven’t tried Florentine gelato until you’ve had Vivoli; one of Florence’s oldest, this family-owned gelateria has been open since 1930. Here, the answer to that cone/cup question has been made for you: Vivoli doesn’t offer cones, but you can add a cialdino or sigarino cookie on top if you’d like. We also recommend their affogato.
Perchè no? – This gelateria’s name, which literally translates to “Why not?”, perfectly sums up our thoughts every day at merenda time. Look for the red neon sign on a small side street of Via dei Calzaiouli. Must-tries include Buontalenti and all the classics–crema, pistacchio, cioccolato fondente. They also offer some vegan and lactose-free choices that are just as creamy, like our favorite soy milk-based nocciola.
Donamalina – This cioccolateria and gelateria fills the Le Cure gap, and, unsurprisingly, their chocolate flavors are some of the best. The hazelnut, pistachio and almond mix–called “gusto mediterraneo”–is another of our top flavors in Florence.
SottoZero – Outside the city center, SottoZero is the place to go if you’re spending the day in the Cascine park. (Its exurban location also makes the price to quality ratio great.) Everything is certified gluten-free, and the ice cream cakes are perfect for birthdays.
