Four New Yorkers on Bringing Italy to the City

Italian influence in New York City isn’t hard to find; it’s in the faces of 12% of the population, the trattoria-like restaurants that seem to be on every corner, the Aperol Spritzes in everyone’s hand come happy hour, and the neighborhoods in which you hear more Italian spoken than English. In the early 20th century, the city saw a massive influx of Italian immigrants–over two million–and today, it still houses the largest population of Italians and Italian Americans in the US. As in Italy, food became, and remains, the cornerstone of their lives. By opening pizzerias, macellerias, trattorias, and pasticcerias, these immigrants recreated the flavors of home as well as mirrored the traditional business models of Italy: family-run establishments passed down through many (many!) generations. In an ever-changing city, these spots offer a rare sense of permanence, familiarity, and comfort, beyond simply being reliable places for Italian products and dishes. From slicing behind butcher counters to manning wood-fired pizza ovens, here are four restaurant owners dedicated to creating and preserving Italian traditions in New York City.