“La Grassa” (“The Fat”): while many might consider this to be a less-than-flattering nickname, Emilia Romagna’s capital wears it with pride. A treasure trove of succulent dishes, sauces, meats and cheeses, Bologna is rightly considered to be the culinary capital of Italy. Tortellini in brodo, tortellini in crema parmigiana (we won’t discuss the tortellini debate with Modena now), cotoletta Bolognese, tagliatelle al ragù (or spaghetti Bolognese, as it is more commonly, but wrongly, known worldwide), tigelle, gnocco fritto, prosciutto di Parma with fluffy crescentine, mortadella (the meat even took on the city’s name abroad), crema fritta, green lasagna, passatelli… Bologna’s classic recipes are some of the most delectable in the country: the city’s menus read like all-star lineups.
Emilia Romagna is one of Italy’s leading agricultural regions and provides over 42% of the country’s economic activity for DOP and IGP products: Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma and Aceto Balsamico di Modena all hail from here. This easy access to quality products, plus the young and hip student population, makes Bologna’s restaurant scene one of the most vibrant in Italy. Eating in this city is a marathon, not a sprint; all of these fantastic spots and dishes are must-tries, even if it means unbuttoning your pants.
PORTA SARAGOZZA
Osteria Bottega – A must-visit, stylish osteria–with soft lights and wooden furniture–where you can try an exceptional interpretation of any Bolognese dish. Start with an assortment of Bolognese cold cuts and cheeses, as well as raw sausage spiced with pepper and herbs.
Must Order: Tortellini in crema parmigiana; typical maccheroncini al torchio with livers; pigeon or cotoletta alla bolognese (a classic cutlet of veal, breaded and cooked butter, then layered with prosciutto crudo and a not-so-thin piece of Parmigiano Reggiano and cooked again with a ladle of broth until the prosciutto and parmigiano melt together).
Trattoria Nonna Rosa – This informal, classic Bolognese trattoria features historic dishes and new creations, including spicy macaroni with pancetta and uova della nonna with mushrooms, brie, ham and tartufo. The main dining room is covered with posters of Italian cinema from the 1950s and 60s.
Must Order: Gramigna (the pasta shape classic in Emilia-Romagna, not the grass) with saffron and sausage.
Enoteca Da Zampa – This vintage-style wine bar with wooden tables offers a wide choice of wineries and labels, whether experimental, organic or classic. The atmosphere is convivial and noisy, especially on the weekends when the spot fills with university students.
Must Order: Wine, of course, and an assortment of crostini, especially the ones with anchovies or ‘nduja.
SANTO STEFANO
Ristorante Da Cesarina – After a Sunday stroll through the stalls of the antique market in Piazza Santo Stefano, Cesarina is perfect for a classic meal. Sit outside and enjoy the piazza with its many churches: could it be any more Italian to enjoy your meal to the chime of the bells from not one, but seven churches?
Must Order: Lo stecco alla petroniana (fried sticks of mortadella, meat and cheese with béchamel), tortellini in Parmesan cream, lombatina alla Guido reni (a variation of cotoletta alla bolognese), crema fritta.
Drogheria della Rosa – This restaurant with eclectic decor is run by an equally eclectic character, Emanuele Addone, originally from Lucania but adopted by the Bolognese. His unmistakable style unites many Italian regions, while maintaining a balance between history and new flavors. Their old underground cellar can be rented for private events, but the most beautiful area to sit is outside, underneath the medieval arcade between Porta Santo Stefano and Castiglione, only a few steps from the Eleonora Duse Theater.
Must Order: Tortelli (excellent with squash blossoms), filet with balsamic vinegar, and crema di mascarpone with dark chocolate chips or strawberries.
BOLOGNA CENTER
Montanara – For a quick lunch, visit Montanara, a stone’s throw from the Finestrella. The waiters throw down plates of fantastic tortellini as they whiz from one small table to the next underneath flowers, teacups and wicker baskets hanging from the ceiling. The menu features exceptional pasta dishes like tagliolini with onion and gramigna with sausage. Don’t confuse the osteria with the Montanarina next door, where they offer mainly cold dishes and tigelle.
Must Order: Mortadella mousse, tortellini in brodo or tagliatelle al ragù.
Forno Brisa – This progressive (and self-proclaimed “rebel”) bakery has five locations around Bologna and focuses on breads, pastries and pizza using sourdough (still rare in Italy!). They work closely with farms to source their wheat and run programs to educate, preserve and share agrarian culture. Also great are the coffee and chocolate–the beans for both of which are carefully selected from partner farms around the world.
Must Order: Pizza al taglio (flavors change according to seasonal ingredients); brownie; a large loaf of crunchy, sourdough bread; savory walnut bread.
Ahimè – This fashionable, farm-to-table restaurant changes its menu quite frequently, evolving their offerings following the produce from their garden and the small producers they work with. Vegetables take center stage (even in desserts), but, when available, definitely don’t miss the meat plates either. Dishes aren’t divided into courses: we recommend ordering one of everything and sharing. You can sit at a communal table, or at a counter overlooking the chefs in the kitchen.
Must Order: Bread with juniper butter (always available), one of everything and, for dessert, the cauliflower with white chocolate, capers and sage.
Oltre. – Decorated with iconic stickers of rock bands and vinyls, the entrance to Oltre. resembles a music studio or a 70s apartment, but step across the threshold and the atmosphere completely switches to modern, dimly-lit, upscale. The menu pays homage to Emilian culinary traditions with cutting-edge reinventions like Bolognese ramen or horse tartare. Don’t miss one of their inventive cocktails!
Must Order: 24-month Parmesan cheese pralines on a red pepper fondue, knife-cut tagliatelle with ragù, or the seven-course tasting menu to try all the classics.
Ristorante Diana – Here, waiters dressed in crisp white shirts and black ties bustle around the white tablecloth-covered tables, serving each dish from a trolley. In 1909, Diana first opened as a cafè and has been a center of Bolognese dining since the 1960s. Both for the flavor and the tableside show, you can’t miss the tortellini in brodo, bollito or handmade sweets.
Must Order: Tortellini, trolley of roasts and boiled meats, fritto all’italiana and gelato with amarene Fabbri.
Caminetto d’oro – Looking for a date night spot? This heartfelt establishment on Via dei Falegnami is perfect for a candlelit dinner, as romantic as the restaurant’s origin story: to be near her husband, Maria Di Giandomenico moved to Bologna, and they opened this restaurant together. For nearly 100 years, the family at Caminetto d’Oro has been reinventing traditional Bolognese dishes based on territory and seasonality.
Must Order: Passatelli (a pasta formed of breadcrumbs, eggs and grated Parmesan cheese), boiled meat, rabbit and zuppa inglese.
Trattoria Da Me – Trattoria Da Me is really a family affair. Since 1937, the cozy trattoria has been run by two siblings, their respective partners and, today, their grandchildren. The menu features classic cuisine, fantastic pastas, and their cotoletta alla Bolognese won the trattoria a place on Alessandro Borghese’s “Quattro Ristoranti” TV show.
Must Order: Ragù bianco di cortile, maccheroncini al torchio with a sprinkle of black truffle, cotoletta alla bolognese and stuffed pasta.
Osteria del Sole – Located in the Quadrilatero’s Mercato di Mezzo, the Osteria del Sole is renowned as the world’s oldest osteria, established in 1465. Staying true to its roots, the osteria offers exclusively wine; you’re expected to bring your own snacks/food. The osteria’s primitive picnic tables and lively local patrons provide a glimpse into Bologna’s past, and the spot stays open until 9 PM. Don’t miss the inner courtyard where you can see a horse’s crib and hitch from the 1200s.
Must Order: Glass of wine, preferably something from Emilia Romagna like Pignoletto or Lambrusco.
Ahimè, Bologna
GIARDINI MARGHERITA
Trattoria Paradisino – A short 7 km outside of the energetic city center, this trattoria welcomes you to “paradise” through a water-green gate and vintage sign. Established in the 1950s along the then-navigable Rhine River, the restaurant-turned-inn is still a popular spot for fishing and getting away from the city. Summer is the most magical, when you can enjoy a quiet lunch in the sunny, blooming garden. The traditional Emilian menu offers delicacies from the river, such as fried frogs.
Must Order: Fried frogs, fluffy river fish, and green tagliolini with prosciutto and lemon.
SAN LAZZARO
Trattoria Croara – A typical post-war trattoria, Trattoria Croara produces simple dishes of cucina povera with genuine, local ingredients. Perched on the first hills of San Lazzaro, between the blue sky and their evergreen terrace, the restaurant has a family-friendly atmosphere and a fully homemade menu that incorporates typical Bolognese flavors according to seasonal availability.
Must Order: Crescentine; tigelle; ravioli with radicchio and ricotta; artichokes topped with speck.
BOLOGNINA
Trattoria Via Serra – This 35-seat trattoria has light-blue checked tablecloths (though you won’t be able to let a drop of sauce fall to waste on the tablecloth) and is one of the few places in Bologna to have earned the Slow Food award. Owners Flavius and Thomas emphasize local ingredients, partnering with high-quality Emilian producers such as Caseificio Rosola di Zocca for cheese, the Azienda Agricola Mesini for organic flour and Macellaio Ezio for meat.
Must Order: Tortellini in brodo and Modenese steak.
Antica Trattoria della Gigina – Opened in 1956 by Aldina Fava, nicknamed Gigina, the large trattoria became famous for its fresh pasta, prepared daily. Today, the 1970s furnishings and antique style are the perfect place to savor traditional Bolognese cuisine.
Must Order: Mortadella mousse with balsamic jelly, Gigina’s tagliatelle, bollito and torta di riso.
BOLOGNA SURROUNDINGS (IN THE HILLS):
Fienile Fluó – Tucked into the hills surrounding Bologna, Fienile Fluó’s enchanting location has views of green sprawling meadows and gullies. The typical Emilian menu is predominantly 0 km, inspired by family recipes and seasonality. Likewise, the seasons each offer a special dining experience: enjoy brilliantly colored flowers in spring, beautiful sunsets from the open terrace in summer, cool dinners lit by fairy lights in fall and aperitivo with the heat from a large bonfire in winter.
Must Order: Mixed charcuterie and cheese board, giardiniera and whole wheat tigelle with squacquerone.
Trattoria Amerigo – This institution, open since 1934, is probably one of the best Michelin starred restaurants in Italy–but you might not even realize it, since the cuisine is exceptionally comforting and traditional, the restaurant so cozy, and the portions actually satisfying. Local, seasonal dishes each feature the year in which they were first added to their menu, and after ordering, you’ll realize why they’ve been staples for so many years. Everything is exceptional and the a la carte menu changes quite often, but if you happen to go during mushroom season, be sure to order them.
Must Order: Tagliatelle al ragù, lasagna, selvaggina, and the tigelle con gelato di Parmigiano
Mamo Cucina – Here, the menu is inspired by French Nouvelle Cuisine with a focus on local territory, highlighting vegetables and quality sourcing. The chef and owners transformed what was once Castel Arienti’s barn and stable into a tiny restaurant and residence (guests can also sleep upstairs) full of charm, furnished with marble tables, vintage hanging mirrors and fireplaces.
Must Order: Surprise! The ad hoc tasting changes monthly according to a theme defined by the chef.
