Editor’s Note: This recipe comes from Mediterranea by Anastasia Miari (Quadrille, £28; photography © Marco Argüello), which includes recipes by and stories of nonne from all over the Mediterranean. Though it has all the usual suspects—silky eggplant, tangy passata, crunchy breadcrumbs, melty mozzarella—Alfia’s recipe is not your typical eggplant parm, forgoing the oven for a frying pan and requiring a harrowing flip (or three). Forza corragio!

Alfia lives on the west coast of Sicily in the seaside town of Riposto. The streets here are washed in different tones of pastel and the houses, on first glance, appear to be small—but after I step into Alfia’s home, I realize that the humble exterior of the building has fooled me. Each room opens up into another space, the kitchen being the last, with Alfia framed in its doorway at the end of a seemingly never-ending corridor of rooms.

Each space has its own unique feel. The fancy dining room flooded with light is the first room that people encounter when stepping in off the street. I sense it is the least lived in. People walking by can steal a glance and spot a smart, marble-topped mid-century dining table with elegant chairs (the seats still wrapped in plastic), a decadent hanging lamp, a 1950s radio tucked into the corner, covered with framed family photographs, and a decadent vitrine with Alfia’s best crockery and glassware. Next is Alfia’s bedroom, the dimmest room in the house (by design!), with her impeccably made marital bed at its center, rosary hanging above it. Following that is a wood-paneled room that opens up into a sun-drenched courtyard that meets the kitchen, where Alfia spends most of her time.

Alfia’s home is characterful in every way and filled with beautiful antique furniture as well as the customary hand-knitted throws, net curtains, and icons of the Madonna tucked into corners full of knick-knacks. She is an open-hearted lady who is cheerful and welcoming from the very start. The parmigiana di melanzane she makes tastes delicious. When these three elements come together, we have the makings of a satisfying day of cooking and shooting together.

I’m intensely moved when Alfia begins to cry, lamenting the years of life that have passed her by. I am in an intense moment of life myself, having just become a mother and struggling with my new identity. Meeting Alfia makes me even more determined to hold onto the woman I was before bringing Calypso into this world. I so want to live my life, filled with passion and color in every moment. Alfia made the ultimate sacrifice for her family, but she did it at a time in which that was her only choice. Our conversation makes me think about how I want to look back on my own life when I’m her age.

Indulgent layers of crispy breadcrumbs, sticky aubergine (eggplant), mozzarella, and sweet passata make this parmigiana a source of comfort. Cook this when your life and everything in it is in question. I’m not saying it will solve anything, but it certainly will keep you occupied and nourished. Don’t expect to assemble it in a tray and simply stick it in the oven, though. In Nonna Alfia’s words, “A real parmigiana di melanzane is not baked in an oven.” This is a fun one to make and requires a little courage. You’ll need to flip a frying pan in order to get a crispy finish on both sides of the parmigiana. Alfia flips the whole thing like a pro—no less than four times to ensure a nicely toasted outer breadcrumb layer.

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS

• 700 ml (24 fl oz/scant 3 cups) sunflower oil
• 1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) aubergines (eggplants), sliced into 1 cm (1/2 inch) rounds
• 3 medium eggs
• 90 g (3 1/4 oz) dried breadcrumbs
• 10 g (1/2 oz) parmesan, grated
• 200 g (7 oz) mozzarella, sliced

FOR THE SAUCE

• 400 g (14 oz or generous 3/4 cup) passata (sieved tomatoes)
• 60 ml (2 fl oz or 1/4 cup) water
• 1 teaspoon granulated sugar
• 1 tablespoon salt
• A handful of basil leaves, plus extra to serve (optional)
• 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped or grated

PREPARATION

1. Heat the oil in a large frying pan (about 32 cm/12 1/2 inches wide) over a medium heat and fry the aubergines in batches for up to five minutes or until nice and soft and golden. Place the fried aubergine slices on a tray lined with paper towels to soak up the excess oil.
2. Meanwhile, get your eggs and sauce ready. Bring a saucepan of water to boil and cook the eggs for 10 minutes, then plunge them into cold water and allow to cool before peeling and chopping them.
3. Combine all the ingredients for the sauce in a saucepan over a medium heat and simmer for 10 minutes, or until reduced and thickened.
4. Once all the aubergines are fried, pour out all but a little bit of oil from the frying pan, then sprinkle half the breadcrumbs and half the parmesan over the base of the pan. Add an even layer of aubergines (placed snugly side by side, not overlapping), a layer of chopped egg, and some mozzarella. Next, spoon over some of the sauce—you want it to be nicely coated rather than drowning in sauce as you will have to flip this later, so use around 150 g (5 1/2 oz). We are aiming for three layers of aubergine, but if your pan is larger, go for two layers and use a bit less sauce.
5. Working quickly, so the bottom layer of breadcrumbs doesn’t get soggy, repeat with another layer of aubergine, egg, mozzarella, and sauce. Finish with a final layer of aubergines and the remaining parmesan and breadcrumbs on top. Place the pan over a medium-high heat and fry for 3–5 minutes, allowing the breadcrumbs on the bottom to crust and the mixture to heat through.
6. Now, remove the pan from the heat and carefully place a large plate over the top of the frying pan. With oven gloves on, hold the plate in place and flip the pan over so that the parmigiana falls onto the plate. Remove the frying pan from the top (hopefully to reveal a nice golden crust!), put it back on the heat for 30 seconds, and slide the parmigiana gently back into the pan from the plate. Fry for a further 3–5 minutes until the breadcrumbs on the bottom are golden and have formed a crust. To serve, flip one more time onto a serving plate and take to the table. Top with a few fresh basil leaves, if desired.