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Italy Segreta’s Ultimate Guide to Florence

IN COLLABORATION WITH LUISAVIAROMA

A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, jam, coffee on a rumpled white-sheeted hotel bed; visible hotel logos in soft light. A breakfast tray with pancakes, syrup, and berries sits on a white bed; Hotel d’Inghilterra Roma logo appears on the right.

 

WHERE TO EAT

 

RESTAURANTS

  1. Cibrèo Caffè – All-day service and a menu of elevated classics. A local institution from the late Fabio Picchi. Must Order: Antipasti selection, tagliolino cacio e burro, and la braciola taglio bistecca. 
  2. Teatro Del Sale – Part of the Cibrèo family, theater/restaurant. Help yourself to a Tuscan feast followed by a lively show. 
  3. Trattoria Sostanza – The epitome of cucina povera done right, with open-fire cooking. Strict hours, cash only. Must Order: Pollo al burro and il tortino di carciofi.
  4. Enoteca Spontanea – Friendly ambience, natural wines (let Nicola advise you), and an always-changing menu. Must order: Fegatini with orange jam and chocolate cake.
  5. C-ucina – Garage-turned-Scandi-style-restaurant with an innovative menu. Order one of everything and share. 
  6. Alla Vecchia Bettola – Chaotic, communal tables, and rustic, home-cooked food. Wash it down with endless jugs of Chianti. Must Order: Fried artichokes, penne alla vecchia bettola, and torta alle mele.
  7. Trattoria Cammillo – Old-school restaurant with an extended repertoire of classics and mind-blowing desserts. Must Order: Sedano-rapa with bottarga, pasta alla carrettiera, chicken curry, and pear tart.
  8. Osteria Tripperia Il Magazzino – Honors the Tuscan tradition of using all parts of the animal. Must Order: Trippa, lampredotto, bollito, lingua
  9. 5ecinque Upscale vegetarian spot in a local-favorite piazza. Must order: Cecina. 
  10. Osteria Vini E Vecchi Sapori Small and tucked in an alley behind Piazza Signoria, traditional food is accompanied by unexpected music and Madonna. Must Order: Pappardelle al sugo d’anatra.
  11. Trattoria Sergio Gozzi Lunch-only spot for solid classics, since 1915. Must Order: I pici and il peposo.
  12. La Trattoria Del Pesce* – One of the few–if not only–places to have good fish and seafood in Florence. Must Order: Spaghetti alle vongole con bottarga.
  13. Da Padellina* – Two words: Dante and steak. Must Order: Penne al gallo and bistecca.
  14. Da Delfina* – Refined and traditional with a great view. Must Order: La Francesina, il piatto del buon ricordo, and the rice cake with orange jam.
  15. Da Burde* – One of the most renowned and longest-standing Florentine restaurants. Must Order: Tagliatelle al ragù bianco di Chianina and the fig tart or castagnaccio when in season. 
  16. Giorgio* – Hidden Venetian-inspired restaurant in the back of an equally delicious bakery. Must Order: Crudi.
  17. Da Ruggero* Handwritten menu, original ‘70s decor, and a very Tuscan menu. Must Order: Farinata di cavolo nero, arista, carciofi al tegame, and patate arrosto.

ALIMENTARI/DELI 

  1. Deli 1891 Firenze Top-tier build-your-own sandwiches and a counter of premade vegetables, meats, and salads to eat there or takeaway. 
  2. C.BIO – Local-product grocery store and vegetable-forward deli with noteworthy sourdough. Eat on the “secret” terrace upstairs.
  3. La Bottega di Rosano* Hidden gem for schiacciata and great, local produce to go.  

 

GELATO

  1. La Sorbettiera – Can’t go wrong, especially with one of their many chocolate flavors. Make sure to pick the waffle cone. 
  2. Sbrino – Three locations of well-executed classics: zabaione and raspberry-ginger are musts. 
  3. Gelateria della Passera – Expect pure flavors: the coffee is bitter, the grapefruit is sour, the melon is fresh, and the pistachio is the nuttiest we’ve had. 
  4. *La Gelatiera – Go for the peanut or one of their nontraditional flavors. Look up before you leave. 
  5. Edoardo il Gelato Biologico Freshly-made waffle cones and vegan options just steps from the Duomo. 

CAFÉS

  1. Wild Buns Bakery– Scandinavian breakfast buns and specialty coffee in a bright space with few seats. 
  2. Melaleuca – Light and airy Australian-style café/brunch spot with the best cinnamon buns in town. 
  3. Todo Modo – Cute bookstore with a café hidden in the back among the stacks. 
  4. SimBIOsi* Third wave coffee shop with shabby chic decor, enough seating, and good WiFi. 
  5. Coffee Mantra Third-wave coffee shop to-go or to sit outside. Try a coffee made with the monorigin bean of the week. 
  6. FLUID – Grab one of the city’s best specialty coffees from the window to go and wander Sant’Ambrogio. 
  7. S.forno Modern pastries and pizza al taglio, a tight menu of sandwiches and salads, and filter coffee in a homey environment.  
  8. Pasticceria Buonamici Classics done right with a cozy communal table in the back. 
  9. Caffè Lietta – a neighborhood café with an in-house bakery is the perfect place for coffee and their signature sweet, “Il Priulo,”
  10. Pasticceria Gualtieri dal 1933 Just past Porta Romana, locals’ breakfast spot with vegan/gluten-free options and incredible bongo (profiteroles). 
  11. Base V Vegan salads, toasts, smoothies, and juices, plus the best chocolate-peanut butter cookies you’ll ever have. 
  12. La Cantinetta dei Verrazzano – You can come for a cappuccino or a quick lunch,  but, either way, you must order the pea focaccia and/or the cecina.

WHERE TO DRINK

  1. Il Santino – A wine bar so cozy that people overflow into the street. Best for aperitivo with one of their crostoni.
  2. Vineria Sonora – Hip, alternative natural wine bar with some small plates to share.
  3. Il Conventino – Former convent, now artists’ studios and café. Take a spritz and drink it in the cloisters.
  4. Le Volpi e L’Uva – Classic, mainly-outside wine bar by Ponte Vecchio with large crostoni and cheese and charcuterie platters.  
  5. La Loggia – Bar/lounge on the terrace of Palazzo Guadagni. Ideal for aperitivo at sunset overlooking Piazza Santo Spirito and a nice slice of the Florentine skyline. 
  6. Enoteca Bellini – Young, female-run wine bar with crostoni, high tables, and cheerful energy. 
  7. Bar dell’Angolo – A corky, no frills neighbourhood bar which serves cheap drinks and an aperitivo made with a great home made tuna pate and hummus (and when looking at it from outside don’t forget to look up!)
  8. Casa Del Vino* A wood-lined wine bar run by Gianni and Nicoletta. A wine glass, a sandwich, and a good conversation. 

 WHERE TO SHOP 

 

ARTISANS

  1. Moleria Locchi – Family-run glassware studio that also offers customized engraving.  
  2. Ippogrifo Stampe d’Arte – Long-standing workshop of acqua forte-etched and hand-painted prints. 
  3. Argentiere Pagliai – Custom and ready-made silver objects since 1930. 
  4. Antico Setificio Fiorentino Appointment-only Florentine fabric workshop. 
  5. Giovanni Baccani The Blue Shop – 1900s-style shop with handmade frames, boxes, prints, and chandeliers. 
  6. Alberto Cozzi Bookbinders who specialize in marbled Florentine paper and leather-bound journals. 
  7. GF98 Giuseppe Fanara Store and workshop for small leather goods: wallets, keychains, and glasses cases. 
  8. Atelier Rina Milano – Tailor-made women’s clothing on appointment. 
  9. Sartoria Marinaro di Mario Shciales – Neapolitan tailor for suits and blazers on appointment. 
  10. 54 Calzature Don Francesco Da Firenze Made-to-order and ready-made leather sandals. 
  11. Heart to Heart in Florence – If you can’t bring home a carpet from around the world, the velvet Friulane will do.  
  12.  Antica Occhialeria* – Funky, custom-made glasses near Piazza della Libertà. 
  13. Giacomo Bacci – Made-to-measure shirts by appointment, plus a ready-to-wear collection available in store.

DESIGN STORES

  1. Simone Begani Art gallery with pieces by notables like Ettore Sottsass and Enzo Mari.
  2. Domus Aurea – Mid-century design store with furniture and home decor. 
  3. Elena Pinna  Art and furniture in a cool, vaulted space. 
  4. Lisa Corti – Outpost of a Milanese shop; known for floral tablecloths and bedcovers. 
  5. Loretta Caponi – Old-school sheets of your dreams, plus a recently-launched collection of female wear. 

VINTAGE

  1. Celeste Vintage – Well-curated, tight selection of high-end pieces. Check the rack in the back for steals. 
  2. Epoca Vintage Stalwart overflowing with vintage from all decades. 
  3. Only Usato Private collection open for one week a month (check their IG). Can find designer pieces at a fraction of the price. 
  4. Silvyargé Small shop with a lot of Mod and an extended selection of accessories. 
  5. Street Doing Vintage Couture Vast collection of both designer and accessible vintage. 
  6. Recollection by Albrici Glamorous collection in a historic palazzo in Oltrarno. Ask to see their showroom across the street for even more.
  7. I VISIONARI – Vintage and new independent eyewear shop.
  8. Momo Vintage – Robust designer collection with a bit of flair.  
  9. Vannaty Personal collection of owner Nonna Vanna, open by appointment only and for purchases via IG.

 

WHAT ART TO SEE (BEYOND THE CLASSICS)

 

  1. Palazzo Strozzi – Reaching for the Stars: From Maurizio Cattelan to Lynette Yiadom-Boakye running until June 18th, 2023.
  2. Villa Bardini – Lisetta Carmi Suonare Forte photoshow running until October 8th, 2023. 
  3. 74 Collezione Roberto Casamonti – Private collection of modern/contemporary art, including works by Schifano, Basquiat, Mirò, and Boetti. 
  4. Fondazione Mascarade – A Foundation dedicated to providing professional training and opportunities to emerging opera artists. The foundation organizes Opera Events and Galas year-round.

 

 

 

Cibreo Caffè

Teatro Del Sale

Trattoria Sostanza

Enoteca Spontanea

C-ucina

Alla Vecchia Bettola

Trattoria Cammillo

Osteria Tripperia Il Magazzino

5ecinque

Osteria Vini E Vecchi Sapori

Trattoria Sergio Gozzi

La Trattoria Del Pesce

Da Padellina

Da Delfina

Da Burde

Pasticceria Giorgio

Da Ruggero

Deli 1891 Firenze

C.BIO

La Bottega di Rosano

La Sorbettiera

Sbrino

Sbrino

Gelateria della Passera

La Gelatiera

Edoardo il Gelato Biologico

Wild Buns Bakery

Melaleuca

Todo Modo

SimBIOsi

Coffee Mantra

FLUID

S.forno

Pasticceria Buonamici

Pasticceria Gualtieri dal 1933

Base V

Base V

Base V

La Cantinetta dei Verrazzano

Il Santino

Vineria Sonora

Il Conventino

Le Volpi e L’Uva

La Loggia

Enoteca Bellini

Bar dell’Angolo

Casa Del Vino

Moleria Locchi

Ippogrifo Stampe d’Arte

Argentiere Pagliai

Antico Setificio Fiorentino

Giovanni Baccani

Alberto Cozzi

GF98 Giuseppe Fanara

Atelier Rina Milano

Sartoria Marinaro di Mario Shciales

54 Calzature Don Francesco Da Firenze

Heart to Heart in Florence

Antica Occhialeria

Simone Begani

Domus Aurea

Elena Pinna

Lisa Corti

Loretta Caponi

Celeste Vintage

Epoca Vintage

Silvyargé

Street Doing Vintage Couture

Recollection by Albrici

I Visionari

Momo Vintage

Palazzo Strozzi

Villa Bardini

74 Collezione Roberto Casamonti

Fondazione Mascarade

Caffè Lietta

Giacomo Bacci