Since the 19th century, Versilia, the stretch of Tuscan coast between Lake Massaciuccoli and Marina di Massa, has been the holiday destination of choice for luxury seekers from Milan and Florence (and now abroad), with many choosing Forte dei Marmi and Pietrasanta for their second homes or for their villeggiatura. A long stretch of wide, sandy beach, backed by the Apuan Alps, has made it the playground of the bagni and the nighttime beach club, and the truth is that much of the area is now woefully overpriced, with many establishments prioritizing aesthetics over quality. That said, if you know where to go, you’ll find that the real soul of Versilia has not been smothered by the glitz and glam. You can dine on gloriously unpretentious tordelli with ragù in little mountain towns with views of the sea, drink top-notch (and perfectly-priced) cocktails on charming street corners, watch old movies in an open-air cinema under the stars… This local’s guide to Versilia, curated by the Italy Segreta Team and born-and-bred Viareggio local and  Creative Director Rebecca Larsson, is not for those who want to see and be seen, but for those who wish to live like their first home is in Versilia. 

WHERE TO SLEEP IN VERSILIA

Villa Roma Imperiale – Reminiscent of a refined beach house, this family-run boutique hotel is a one-of-a-kind destination for those seeking understated luxury, exceptional service, and the privacy of a true home-away-from-home. With private terraces and balconies overlooking manicured gardens, you’ll experience the lifestyle that has made Versilia one of the most glamorous spots on the Tuscan coast, hosted by a family that upholds the highest standards of hospitality.

Locanda al Colle – Locanda al Colle feels more like an elegant countryside villa than a hotel, offering stunning views of Versilia’s rolling hills and a personal touch from owner Riccardo Barsottelli, who turned the common areas into his own art gallery. The 12 simply luxurious rooms are all different and each season offers a different slew of possible activities, creating a memorable stay time and time again. 

LABottega – Part of the farm complex known as LABottega, this charming two-person mini farmhouse has panoramic views of the Strettoia hills and is complete with a small private pool under a lemon pergola, a kitchenette, and fireplace. We love that the farm houses goats, rabbits, geese, and chickens that roam freely among the olive groves during the day.

Casale La Gusciane Country Inn – This small stone farmhouse is everything you want a Tuscan countryside stay to be. Alessandro, Luca (a former actor who you may recognize from Sex and The City), and their dachshunds welcome all their guests as if they were old friends, and the English-style aesthetic is as cozy as can be. If you do stay elsewhere, come by for dinner in the beautiful garden by candlelight. The duo also organizes events like yoga and lavender picking. 

WHERE TO EAT IN VERSILIA – ON THE COAST

Pasticceria Patalani (Viareggio) – With royal blue-awnings, this pastry shop has a selection fit for the kings and queens of Versilia. You’ll have your pick of a case filled with cannoli and babà, tartlets and profiteroles, but you should spring for the bomboloni, stuffed with chantilly and finished with a dusting of powdered sugar. 

Caffe Pasticceria Soldi (Forte dei Marmi)  – For morning pastries and coffee in Forte dei Marmi, go early to beat the crowds and enjoy them at the bar counter to avoid being overcharged

Pizzeria da Rizieri (Viareggio) – Thin and crispy crusts are the name of the game at this pizzeria in Viareggio. Open since 1938, it’s been a local go-to for an easy dinner, and, since we are in Versilia after all, you’ve got to try the cecina. 

Pescheria Gastronomia L’ACCIUGA (Viareggio) – This no-frills, seafood-forward gastronomia is perfect for a quick and easy meal, sat outside on plastic chairs and tables, or for taking ready-to-eat goodies home. Fritto misto, spaghetti moscardino, polpo e patate… they’ve got all the fishy classics. 

LABottega Farm (Marina di Pietrasanta) – LABottega has got it all–and it’s all incredibly chic. The guesthouses, farm, and gallery are all fantastic, but we particularly love coming to eat. The kitchen follows seasonal rhythms and sources all their ingredients from their own farm or local producers with a particular emphasis on Slow Food presidia. You can also buy cured meats, cheeses, and the house-produced olive oil to take home. 

Valé (Forte dei Marmi) – This historic focacceria in Forte dei Marmi’s main square is renowned for its chickpea farinata and extra crispy mini flatbreads. Great for a savory breakfast or for an easy lunch.

Trattoria Buonamico (Viareggio) – This family-owned spot is Versilia’s oldest restaurant still in operation. Since 1901, when it opened as a little place for snacks and wine, Buonamico has been serving locals and gourmets in-the-know the coast’s best seafood. Marinated fish, cod, and the typical Viareggio dish “cacciucco” were mainstays, and Buonamico soon transformed into a trattoria, frequented by the likes of famous artists Lorenzo Viani, Giuseppe Ungaretti, Moses Levy, and Gallileo Chini. Seafood is obviously the way to go, and you should order at least one of each of the following: cozze ripiene, spaghetti alle arselle, cacciucco, and orata alla vernaccia. 

Bagno La Perla – Ristorante La Risacca (Camaiore) – This refined restaurant, part of Bagno La Perla, is the perfect place to watch the sun sinking behind umbrellas over a plate of fritto misto–or a selection of raw fish, local from the Tyrrhenian waters. We love to sit outside to feel the salsedine, though you’ll still get the view from inside thanks to large glass windows.  

Còci (Viareggio) – This self proclaimed “vini e fornelli” spot is a great alternative to the local cuisine of the region. Here, you can sip on something from their incredible list of natural wines and munch on a variety of weekly changing small plates, each more beautiful than the next. Past favorites include roasted octopus with tapenade and patatas bravas with stracciatella. The vibe is undeniably hip, and great music bumps late into the evening.

Laboratorio del Gelato (Viareggio) – This gelato shop really is like a laboratory–clean, minimal with gelato that can be defined by purity and precision. Flavors change according to the season, meaning the fruits are as fresh as can be, though you can often find the buffalo milk flavor, one of the creamiest ice creams we’ve ever had. 

Il Nicchio (Pietrasanta) – Open since 1988, this focacceria is a mainstay for quick, cheap, and tasty meals. It’s been the spot for generations, so you’ll find locals of all ages chowing down on their fantastic carbs. The dough for their pizzas and focaccia is made on-site, topped and/or filled with local ingredients, from Versilia clams to Tuscan veggies. Try the crema di formaggio e piselli focaccia. 

WHERE TO EAT IN VERSILIA – IN THE HILLS AND MOUNTAINS

Osteria La Brocca (Pietrasanta) – One of our favorites in all of Versilia, this restaurant has great seafood and even greater service. The owners are unbelievably passionate about sourcing local produce and creating a warm atmosphere–which pairs perfectly with natural wine options and a menu that is tradition-based, but not bound to it. Start with their antipasto misto mare, and, if available, order the tagliolini with wild asparagus and clams, fresh pasta with calamari confit e seppie, pasta alla trabaccolara, fried anchovies, and pesce fresco all’isolana (and everything else). 

Ristorante Bar Luciana – This casual spot in the mountains above Pietrasanta makes a mean fried chicken–and the homemade pastas, Lucchese farro soup, and local tagliere are all fantastic too. Ample outdoor seating makes it lovely in the summertime, with views of the Apuan Alps and the Versilia River.

Il Pozzo Di Bugia (Querceta) – The seasonally-changing menu at this Querceta restaurant is full of refined and innovative versions of Tuscan food, with special emphasis on the bounty of the land. The walls of the large room inside are scribbled with recipes that the chef dedicates to customers, a cozy match with the soft lighting and vintage furniture. During the summer months, the outdoor seating, in a garden with olive trees, is a godsend.  

Da Luciano (Camaiore) – Away from the glitzy vibes of the coast, Da Luciano is for those who care more about what food actually tastes like than how it’s plated. The kitchen here is casalinga-style–casual, homey, and simple–and the views, from up in a small village in the Apuan Alps, are magnificent. The tordelli con il ragù and the fritto di pollo e coniglio (fried chicken and rabbit) are must orders. (Veggie lovers don’t need to panic, though, there’s always a great selection of seasonal vegetables.) 

Quinto Quarto Osteria (Camaiore) – “Quinto quarto” means “offal” and that’s exactly what they serve here; a no-waste policy means that even the “poorest” cuts of meat are given the chance to shine–a hallmark of Tuscan tradition. Open for dinner only, Quinto Quarto’s space is filled with repurposed furniture and decor. The menu changes seasonally, but when you see the tagliolini with sweetbreads and artichokes or the honey-glazed pigeon, you have to order them. 

Il Chiosco nel Bosco (Camaiore) – Suspended over a green valley in the Apuan Alps, this adorable cabin is the best place to experience an often-overlooked flavor of Versilia. Here, try traditional cuisine like tordelli camaioresi and sip local wine labels before or after an excursion through the surrounding hills. In the summertime, enjoy the sunny terrace, or cozy up inside when the season gets chilly. Make sure to try the cacciucco di montagna, i maccheroni al gorgonzola, and the crostata.

Osteria A’ Pagliai (Seravezza) – Under the trees of this osteria’s garden, away from the hustle and bustle (and prices) of Forte dei Marmi, feast on the highest-quality meat dishes cooked in an olive wood-burning stove with an easygoing staff. Finish off your dinner with the piping hot bomboloni, fried to order.  

Attend a Sagra – In the summer, the countryside erupts with sagre of all types, including the famed Sagra Della Ranocchiocciola and the Sagra Del Tordello. These community festivals are a great way to taste uber-local cuisine while mingling with some of the region’s elusive locals, too. This website often has up-to-date information on the dates and locations of Tuscany’s sagre. 

WHERE TO DRINK IN VERSILIA

Alle Boe – This colorful beachside bar is where to come for aperitivo and a spectacular sunset–with the oranges and pinks playing off the rainbow-hued chairs and tables. The cocktails are well-priced for the area and are best accompanied by one of their pinsas, with options ranging from margherita to zucchini blossoms and anchovies. 

Il Bar dello Studio – This bar del quartiere in Pietrasanta is an old-school favorite. Open from 6 PM to 2 AM daily, Il Bar dello Studio makes the best cocktails in the area–with both classics and more inventive options on offer (try the raspberry-based “lampito”!)–served with snackies at the tables outside or in the wood-paneled, bric-à-brac-filled interior. 

WHAT TO DO IN VERSILIA

Spend the Day Seaside at a Bagno

Bagno America – As Forte dei Marmi became increasingly fashionable and beach clubs changed their looks to stay trendy, Bagno America is unchanged and solid, year after year. The dark green colors, vintage furniture, simple dishes, and ever-present sciure all lend to its timeless simplicity. If you like Bagno America as much as we do, you might even get to buy their water glasses to take home with you.

Bagno Assunta – Known and immediately recognizable for its signature blue-and-white striped cabanas, the understated, well-maintained beach club is run by the same Tuscan family as our stay of choice in Forte dei Marmi, Villa Roma Imperiale. It feels like stepping back in time, with the vintage vibe and row of perfect house-style cabins, and you can expect a high level of service. For lunch, you can opt for fresh-baked focaccia sandwiches or a spaghetti with the catch of the day. Don’t miss the spaghetti alle arselle and frittura mista con verdure.

Bagno Augustus – Exceptional service is guaranteed at this uber-luxurious bagno. Seventy-four cabanas with a queen size sun bed, two lounge chairs, two deck chairs, and table are perfect for lounging the day away, and the on-site restaurant offers local specialties from breakfast through dinner. A seawater pool and charming bath houses round out the picture. Prices change throughout the season; reserve ahead.

Bagno Lidino – A yellow and green arched sign with the word LIDO marks the shaded entrance to the famed bagno. Characterized by dark wood and lots of plants, this is one of the few beach establishments that has remained true to the aesthetics of classic Viareggio bagni. They also have a great restaurant where you can relax and unwind after countless swims in the sea. 

Bagno Gazzelle – This unfussy bagno in Pietrasanta isn’t pricey and offers no table service or valet. But a chair under one of their iconic red-and-white umbrellas and a kiosk with some daily prepared options and focaccine is really all we need for a perfect beach day. Reserve ahead.

Or head to the Pozzo della Conca (also known as the Pozzo della Madonna) – If freshwater is more your thing, then add this emerald-colored natural pool to the top of your list. Reachable via a 40-minute hike through the Apuan Alps, the real draw here is the natural waterslide, carved and smoothed into the rock by a strong waterfall that rushes daring adventurers into the water below. No matter the time of year, the temperature is invigoratingly cold, and it can be quite busy in the summer. 

Visit the Marble Caves –  For independent travelers, we recommend reaching Carrara by car or motorbike and heading towards the marble quarries of Colonnata, Fantiscritti, and Torano. The route offers stunning views of the quarries, coast, and villages, with highlights like the Miseglia valley, tunnels, bridges, and the Cave Museum. You can also walk to Campocecina for panoramic views of Lunigiana. For an exclusive experience–with a private jeep tour through the quarries, where you can watch the extraction at work–contact the Italy Segreta Travel Team. ha

Go to an Open-Air Cinema – There’s nothing that screams summer more than going to a movie at Lido di Camaiore’s Bicinema Bussoladomani with the stars sparkling above you. We love that they show both old and new titles; check their Instagram for the schedule. 

Or to the Theater – Teatro La Versiliana is an open-air theater nestled in the middle of a Roman pine forest near Lucca. All summer long, literary meetings, theatrical performances, ballets, and shows for children take the stage beneath the wispy trees, offering a little something for everyone. Check their website for the updated schedule. 

Or to the Opera – Every summer, the Puccini Festival pays homage to composer Giacomo Puccini with shows in the open-air Gran Teatro, located within the Giacomo Puccini Music and Sculpture Park, with Lake Massaciuccoli as its backdrop. It’s a particularly evocative setting to hear the likes of Tosca, Madame Butterfly, and La bohème. 

WHERE TO SHOP IN VERSILIA

Shaft Jeans – our favorite independent Italian denim brand founded in the 1960s, recently opened a small store, with pink awnings in the heart of Forte dei Marmi. Their wide-legged jeans are a must-have!

La Cesteria di Forte dei Marmi – At the edge of Forte dei Marmi’s Piazza G. Garibaldi is this cesteria, selling beautiful wicker baskets, bags, placemats, and more since 1968. This is where you’ll find the stuff to make your home as cottage core as you’ve ever dreamed. 

Il Giaggiolo – Gazebos and greenhouses, benches and planters, fountains and sundials–they’ve got it all at this eclectic home emporium. With a massive selection of both new and vintage garden and home furniture, the 3,000m² space is where to go to outfit any Versilia home.