Puglia is more than just stunning beaches and crystal clear sea. Sure, the region boasts over 800 km of coastline, but actually, Puglia’s color palette leans more green than blue–and we’re not just talking about olive trees. With sprawling vineyards like Tenuta Bocca di Lupo to the grassy ridges of the Parco Nazionale dell’Alta Murgia, inland Puglia’s sun-baked hills are as nurturing for lush foliage as they are for new projects. Innovative restaurants like the entirely vegetarian Mezza Pagnotta and Antichi Sapori, which recently earned attention from Stanley Tucci, are still mainly packed with locals, who need no convincing about their region. Towns like Trani, nicknamed the “city of art”, host a new guard of creatives.  

Not far from the overcrowded, glamorous hotspots like Polignano a Mare and Ostuni, this area north and inland of Bari still maintains a raw, unfiltered version of Puglia, one where you can find ancient key masters, the best mozzarella in the region, and a trabucco turned trendy beach bar. Here’s where to experience the best of the Barese, with places that haven’t changed or compromised for a tourist lens. 

WHERE TO EAT IN THE BARESE

Baby Dicecca (Cassano delle Murge, Bari) – From the same family behind the famed Caseificio Dicecca, this small wooden kiosk in the woods services 40 outdoor tables with fresh, mature, and blue local cheeses. Here, you’re immersed under the green branches of towering oak trees while you try all their cheeses, sip local wine, and explore the 1,300 hectares of nature around you. Reserve ahead.  

Caseificio Artigianale Le Delizie del Latte (Andria) – If you’re looking for the best mozzarella in Puglia, this caseificio in Andria might just have it. What makes theirs special is that it’s made according to 1960s production techniques, using whey to graft and balance the cheese rather than an added acidity corrector, resulting in a creamier, more consistent, and less salty cheese. Add some other fresh products–scamorza, stracciatella, burrata, butter, ricotta, caciocavallo, provolone, pecorino, and several lactose-free options–to your cheesy haul.

Antico Forno Santa Caterina (Altamura) – One of the oldest community ovens in Altamura, Santa Caterina makes you crouch through a little doorway to find ancient recipes made by a team of mostly local women. The aesthetic has been unchanged since medieval times, and the overall vibe is as warm and cozy as the oven. Snack on all types of local focaccia, bread, and desserts at a few tables located out front. 

Tre Archi (Altamura) – Excellent in every sense. Here, you’ll find the region’s cucina povera turned into an entirely haute cuisine, with ingredients from local producers or the restaurant’s garden. The dining room is characterized by clean lines and simple colors, and their lovely  terrace is covered with lush green vines and looks out over surrounding Altamura. There’s also gluten-free and vegan options along with a vast and well-curated wine list. 

Antichi Sapori (Montegrosso) – One of the most exceptional dining experiences in Puglia, if not all of Italy, under the guidance of chef Pitro Zito. Their produce comes from a family-run garden two minutes from the restaurant, and they also focus on foraged herbs. Be sure to reserve ahead and order all of the appetizers, along with their interpretation of Sicilian cassata. 

Mezza Pagnotta (Ruvo di Puglia) – This ethnobotanical restaurant has an entirely vegetarian tasting menu featuring farm-to-table and foraged cuisine. Head Chef Francesco Montaruli brings the taste of his homeland to the menu, with the rallying call of “our ingredients are the ones that tell the story of this territory.” The restaurant is inside a historic residential villa and features a Pugliese-countryside interior with baskets of foraged goods and bundles of drying herbs hanging from the walls. 

Masseria Barbera (Minervino Murge) – This simple agriturismo is adorned on the outside with lush native plants and on the inside with the greens and blues of the Alta Murgia. The menu has produce sourced directly from their Azienda Agricola, and the dishes are classic Pugliese. Sip on a selection of natural wines outside surrounded by slightly rustling trees and enjoy the scents, sounds, and flavors of the land. Must Order: Candele pasta with ragù misto and roasted lamb with lampascioni and mushrooms

Hostaria U’ Vulesce (Cerignola) – Here, local produce and seafood is the guiding force. Upon entering the dark wood and wine-bottle-covered dining room, you’re in good hands, as owner Rosario Di Donna, aside from being a fun and passionate personality, is a real ingredient connoisseur. With recommendations from both Michelin and Slow Food, it’s one of the best spots around for seafood. Must Order: Spaghettoni aglio e olio peperoncino e gamberi and baccalà mantecato with anchovies and capers

U.P.E.P.I.D.D.E RistorArte (Ruvo) – Located within the Aragonese walls of the 16th century, this charming restaurant was founded in 1990, immediately becoming a staple of gastronomic grandeur in this slice of Puglia. The restaurant certainly lives up to their name, which means “little neat thing” in the local dialect. Owned by husband-and-wife-duo Dino Saulle and Maria, he runs the dining room and cellar and she runs the kitchen, creating a menu that follows the seasons by drawing from local produce. A 650-label wine list rounds out the picture, along with rustic, elegant interiors characterized by exposed stone and frescoes.

BONUS:

These four restaurants are right across the border in neighboring Basilicata and well worth a visit. 

Ristorante Sartago (Ferrandina) – The garden and the sea are the inspiration for Chef Domenico Agata’s menu at this cozy joint. Their motto “Cucina dal luogo, con suggestioni dal mondo” (“Cuisine from the place, with suggestions from the world”) manifests in the dishes, which include staples from other regions like Lombardy’s risotto, Piedmont’s plin, and Emilia-Romagna’s passatelli. You can order the tasting menu or a la carte, and pair everything with some excellent bottles from their extensive wine list. 

Ristorante L’Incanto (Venosa) – Aptly named, this restaurant is utterly enchanting, born in the same city where famed Latin poet Horace comes from. With a nod from the Michelin guide, Chef Pompeo is hard at work in the kitchen, working to meld ancient recipes with contemporary tastes; his wife, Angela, leads the welcoming, elegant dining room. Choose from tasting or a la carte menu items and something off their 300-label wine list to enjoy in the bright, window-lined dining room.

Forentum (Lavello) – Forentum was the ancient name for the city of Lavello, where this family run restaurant is located, and the menu, too, is derived exclusively from the land–local produce, slow food presidia products, the family’s olive trees, and simple dishes are what define the cuisine here. Here, you’ll dine in their Cantina, a small room converted from a cave, making for quite a cozy experience. Head Chef Lucia Vizzano’s philosophy is “a good dish comes from the quality of the products and our region, like all of Italy, has excellence”–we wholeheartedly agree. 

La Villa (Melfi) – Though it has a Michelin stamp of approval, dining here feels as if you were invited to the Sonnessa family’s villa. Vito and his father Michele run the kitchen, and Gabriele runs the dining room and the wine cellar (their mother, Emanuela, runs it all in spirit). All the olive oil, wheat, vegetables, and fruit come from their farm, and the changing menu is surprisingly modern. Choose some dishes a la carte, or pick one of their three well-priced tasting menus for the full experience. 

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK IN THE BARESE

Trabucco TORMARESCA (Trani) – Along the shining blue coast of Trani, Italy’s southernmost Trabucco–an ancient, spidery fishing machine–has been purchased by Tormaresca, restored completely on the exact spot of the original trabucco, and gifted to the town. In collaboration with Versante Est, the trabucco is now the town’s trendiest beach bar that also features a starred restaurant where, if you manage to snag one of the few tables, you’ll dine on excellent local cuisine suspended over the sea. Otherwise, drop in for a morning coffee, an afternoon aperitivo, or to join the crowd of music-lovers dancing the night away. 

WHERE TO DRINK IN THE BARESE

Buccomino (Spinazzola) – From 6 PM to midnight, swing through this hip bistro for cocktails by duo Giusty and Rocco–though it’s already been open for 12 hours by this point, serving coffee, breakfast, and lunch. It’s a favorite for aperitivo, when you can sip on the likes of spritzes with orange and rosemary, a spin on a margarita made with lavender, and a warming cinnamon and rum concoction while you nibble on little sandwiches and croquettes.  

Beveroni Jazzin’ Club (Minervino Murge) – Jazzin’ this place certainly is. Despite their award-winning pizza, eclectic decor, and substantial wine list, the best part of the spot is their massive terrace overlooking the vineyards and lush surroundings of Minervino. Snag a pair of their striped lounge chairs against the edge, and watch the sun go down with a glass of something local.

Il Vecchio e il Mare (Trani) – Practically set out over the sea, this hip new cocktail bar and discoteca is the spot to party, Trani style. Here, you’ll dance, drink, and sing below the ancient walls of the town and right above waves crashing onto the rocks, adding to the DJs’ mixes pumping all night long. During the day, it’s also a restaurant, with beautiful sea views. 

Contrabar (Bisceglie) – With an overwhelming number of bottles behind a modern bar, this spot looks like it belongs in the likes of Milan or Rome rather than the small fishing town of Bisceglie. Opened in 2016, bartender and owner pair Francesco and Gianni are master mixologists, sourcing special liquors and flavors from around the world. Their menu takes you chronologically through the invention of some of the world’s most famous cocktails; or you can choose to sip on the duo’s special creations, which change often and according to their mood. 

Seboon (Andria) – The drink list at this little bistro in the town of Andria is unlike any we’ve ever seen. “Each drink is more than just a collection of ingredients,” the menu proclaims, but “a few minimal elements, which stimulate our shared memories, made of childhood ingredients, vintage styles, magical nights, and afternoons spent with grandparents.” With names like “C’era una volta”, “In dà-dà”, and “Back in Time”, this is the place to feel the perfect amount of buzz and nostalgia. 

Sonmarco (Carovigno) –This enoteca slash grocer is the spot for organic wines and the freshest fruits and veggies. For 10 years, founder and sommelier Marco Lanzilotti has been offering his customers high-quality, pesticide-free products, grown in his regenerative garden. The enoteca is warm, friendly, and a sustainable choice for aperitivo, with snacks from the garden and other local farms. After tasting their wines and produce, you can (luckily) snag some from their charming grocery store to take home.

WHAT TO DO IN THE BARESE

Tenuta Bocca di Lupo (Minervino Murge) – This part of Puglia doesn’t look like Puglia, and that’s exactly what makes it so special. Practically bordering Campania and Basilicata in the countryside of Minervino Murge, the landscape is barren, almost lunar, a place where the area’s historical heritage meets its rural and agricultural way of life. This means one thing in particular: vineyards. In the DOC Castel del Monte area, the Bocca di Lupo winery, owned by Tormaresca, produces three DOC wines–Bocca di Lupo, Pietrabianca, and Trentangeli–that capture the distinctive spirit and characteristics of each individual territory. Book ahead for a visit with two different lengths of walking tours or a new e-bike tour to see their production, cellars, and stunning vineyards, sip their creations, and understand the excellence and prestige of Pugliese wines.

Trani – A bit north of Bari, this town captures all of Puglia’s typical beauty and charm and is located right on the clear sea. Built between the 11th and 13th centuries, the quaint, medieval streets are still relatively uncrowded. The town encircles a majestic fishing harbor, and you’ll find lively fishermen with their fresh catches chatting the morning away. The town also has one of the best preserved cathedrals in the region.   

Museo del Confetto Mucci (Andria) – In the historic center of Andria, come visit the Mucci family’s historic confectionery and witness a tradition that began in 1894 in Naples. They specialize in sugared almonds, chocolate, and liqueurs, including the famed “Mandorla Imperial”–made for the wedding of Umberto di Savoia and Maria José–and the “Tenerelli”, sugared almonds covered in a double layer of chocolate. The four-room museum features a century’s worth of public documents, tools, equipment, and molds for confectionery production, and you can purchase these goodies at the end of your tour. 

Bovino – Right near the Campanian border, this medieval town has a beautiful location in the hills and is known for its cultural and artistic heritage. But most importantly, the town safeguards one of the last ancient key stores, that of skilled craftsman Orfeo Bisanti. We’re not just talking about any old keys, but those to the likes of castles, palaces, and cathedrals. At nearly 90 years old, Orfeo has created over ​​1,500 keys, and he’s opened the doors to all sorts of wonders, both figuratively and literally. 

Castel del Monte – If you feel like you’ve seen this castle before, you likely have: the strange octagonal structure is engraved on the back of every one euro cent coin. Built in the 13th century under order by Frederick II of Swabia–Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire and King of Sicily–the entire building is constructed around the number eight: eight octagonal towers boast eight trapezoidal rooms on each floor. On equinox and solstice days, the particular astrological creates shadows and designs. Ticketed entry is available everyday; opening hours change depending on the season. 

Minervino Murge – At about 450 meters above sea level, this ancient town towards the north of the region is known as the “balcony of Puglia” for its expansive views: on one side, the Gargano peninsula, Murgia landscape, and the sea, and on the other, long stretches of countryside in Puglia and Basilicata plus Mount Vulture. The picturesque town and land is famed for being the location of Lina Wertmuller’s first movie, I Basilischi (1963), and Murge’s centro storico features a stunning mural of the director by street artist Daniele Geniale. History buffs will certainly want to make a stop here, as the town infamously declared war on Italy on June 24th, 1945. 

WHERE TO SHOP IN THE BARESE

Antique Markets – Puglia might just be the best place in Italy to shop at the vintage markets. The markets rotate through different locations on each Sunday of the month, and you can find gems–whether seagreen-colored glass damigiane, crisp white textiles, or bronzed copper pots–no matter which market you visit. Find our insider’s guide here. 

QUADRA SHOP (Trani) – This is the kind of store that we walk into and immediately want to buy everything. With a fantastic selection of men’s, women’s, and genderfluid clothes, the store celebrates and encourages you to find your own style, no matter how simple or eccentric. 

Stuppè Shopping (Trani) – Vintage upon vintage. Among the brightly colorful rows of tops, bottoms, and jackets, the real stars of the show are the upcycled blazers and jackets. Owner Melania Caputo embroiders, sews patches, adds ribbons, and bejewels all sorts of different outerwear, not only giving them a new life, but turning them into one-of-a-kind pieces.  

Mimma Ninni (Bari) – You’re guaranteed to not miss this store, between its more than 20 storefront windows and the incredible clothes displayed in said windows. Over 30 years ago, Mimma Ninni established this concept store featuring items from some of the best international brands, and today, it’s still a point of reference for both men’s and women’s luxury fashion in Bari and across Italy. 

Profumeria Artistica Minenna (Bari) – Follow your nose to this profumeria, established in 1996 in Bari, where the interiors feel like an old apothecary with a carefully curated selection of perfumes, skincare products, and home scents. Their focus is towards innovative brands by young noses with rare and valuable essences, and there’s something here for all tastes–or should we say, smells. 

Raffaele Pintucci (Bari) – Since 1900, Raffaele Pintucci has been making and selling shoes in Bari. Evolving from a humble slipper shop to a luxury footwear brand, the store upholds its attention to detail and excellence, and now carries their own products along with a curated collection of men’s and women’s footwear and clothes at two shops in the city center. 

WHERE TO SLEEP IN THE BARESE

Masseria Lama di Luna – Dating back to the 1700s, this masseria tells the tale of Pugliese agricultural tradition with its architecture alone: 40 chimneys, thick insulated walls, light ceilings, and proximity to the fields and pastures. In 1991, Pietro Riccardo Maria transformed the massive space into a huge, luxurious Masseria. The stark white compound has a variety of rooms and suites, an upscale restaurant, and a pool, plus an event space, a cinema, and activities like yoga and horseback riding. The estate is just as stunning as the inside, with 10,000 olive trees, 10,000 vines, 2,000 almond trees, 1,000 cherry trees, a 535-meter-deep artesian well, organic vegetables, and 100 acres left natural for grazing sheep. 

Azienda Agricola Cefalicchio – Located in the 18th-century village of Cefalicchio, this small, rustic B&B tells the story of Puglia’s history as a land situated at the crossroads of Italy, Asia, and Africa. Five mini suites and the rest of the interior have maintained their 19th-century appearance, and outside, a bright swimming pool is surrounded by pine and cypress trees. The small on-site restaurant, facing the farmyard, is where Chef Sabino Scolletta whips up a simple, strictly seasonal menu.