Nestled in a valley beneath the Alps, Merano is a Wes Anderson set come to life: butter-yellow houses, locals lounging by the river that crosses the town, flowers and cherry trees thanks to a microclimate that warms the Adige basin while the surrounding peaks still bear their soft snowcaps. The mild weather and scenic backdrop made the South Tyrolean town a favorite of artists and writers, and the likes of Franz Kafka, Ezra Pound, and, perhaps most famously, the Empress Elisabeth of Austria have called Merano home. It’s thanks to the latter, nicknamed Sissi, that Merano’s fame as a climatic wellness resort spread throughout Europe in the late 1800s, as it was her sickly two-year-old daughter’s miraculous recovery at the Trauttmansdorff Castle (now a museum) that kindled a fervor for tourism here. 

While the former spa town of Europe’s aristocracy is obviously a shoe-in for winter vacations–with five ski regions within near vicinity–we prefer visiting in the spring or summer, when those same mountains function as hiking trails, the plains are filled with wildflowers, and you can stay at the family-run Ottmanngut–our favorite hotel in the area, with a magnificent three-course breakfast to boot. 

Just outside the old city walls of the spa town of Merano, this picturesque white manor house and its Mediterranean gardens–full of cypress, palm, and lemon trees–holds a history nearly as majestic as the surrounding Dolomites, with the first reference to the building dating back to 1290. Here, Ottmanngut proprietor and Merano local Katharina Flöss shares her insider recommendations for the best places to eat, drink, shop, and visit in her city:

WHERE TO EAT IN MERANO

Meteo – Eccentric, in the best way possible. Run by couple Agata and Thomas–the former a working artist and the latter a cook/DJ–Meteo is in a beautiful, cream-colored building right on the river. Handwritten and so small that it fits on a sheet of A4, the menu changes regularly, but you can always find the fantastic pan dell’Oste, grilled friggitelli in oil and butter–the perfect antipasto to share. For primi, try the 24-hour ragù or the amatriciana, to be followed by a braised meat if Thomas has one on the menu.  

Miil – This upscale restaurant in an old mill is one of Alto Adige’s premier addresses for farm-to-table dining. Its seasonal menus with a focus on high quality, local ingredients may even give the likes of those in Copenhagen a run for their money! The on-site winery means that the wine list is equally thoughtful, with biodynamic options from their own production and rare bottles from others. Be sure to book a table–for lunch or dinner–in advance. 

Soulfood – At this recent addition to the town, from the same team behind the chic Backificio in the nearby Lana, sourdough pizza reigns supreme. Proprietor duo Francesco and Marie select only the best stone-ground flours from sustainable Italian producers, and the result is soft dough with crispy edges that’s easier on the stomach thanks to 24- to 48-hour fermentation. A tight antipasti section–which includes polpette di manzo Wagyu altoatesino–round out the menu of creatively-topped pizzas. 

Cafè Villa Bux – Find the quaint, cream-colored house on Via Karl Wolf and you’ll have reached the charming Cafè Villa Bux. Open and family-run since 2022, Cafè Villa Bux is one of the best places in town for a morning pastry, muesli, yogurt bowl, or salmon on a bagel–best paired with a frothy cappuccino–or for a casual lunch. Sit inside for a cozy, farmhouse aesthetic or, weather permitting, in the lovely, lush garden out back. 

Forno Ivo De Pellegrin – This sourdough bread bakery from Ivo De Pellegrin, a University of Gastronomic Sciences grad and former president of Slow Food South Tyrol, is where you can find the highest quality bread in town–all made with organic flours. Go classic with the Pane del Sud, with ancient grains from Sicily, or try one with either einkorn, rye, or farro. The shop is only open Wednesdays and Saturdays, from 9 AM to 1 PM, but the loaves are worth working your schedule around. 

La Smorfia Merano – This family-run pizzeria brings a taste of the south to Alto Adige with fluffy-crusted, Neapolitan-style pizzas. They’ve got superlative versions of all the classics, plus a few inventive takes, including the Contadina with gorgonzola, speck, and champignons and the Ragutella, with a handsome portion of Neapolitan ragù, fior di latte, and stracciatella. Sit and dine in the airy, modern space or grab your pies to go.

WHERE TO EAT & STAY IN MERANO

Ottmanngut – For dinner once a week–Tuesdays during 2024–Ottmanngut opens its doors to non-guests, upon reservation only, for communal-table meals of seasonal, farm-to-table cuisine. For more information or to book, call or write an email to info@ottmanngut.it.

WHERE TO EAT GELATO IN MERANO

(Four more reasons to visit merano in the summer!)

Sabine – With two locations in Merano, Sabine is so beloved by the locals that there’s sure to always be a line. It’s worth the wait, however, for the seasonal flavors, among them apricot-yogurt in summer and chestnut in autumn. 

Costantin – Come to the oldest gelateria in Merano for classic flavors (try the pistacchio!)–best savored in a silver coupe with a pirouline cookie on top. Sit outside along the river to people watch.  

Oasi – This artisanal gelateria feels like the ones you went to during summers of the 90s: retro vibe, big portions, countless flavors. Round out the picture with a cone of Nutella gelato. 

AiJOO Eismanufaktur – If you don’t mind going out of your way for a good gelato (we certainly don’t!), hop on the train to Naturno and run to AiJOO, where all gelatos are made from fresh, local, Mila-mountain milk and top-quality ingredients. The bourbon vanilla is great, as is the apricot, made from fruits harvested nearby. 

WHERE TO DRINK IN MERANO

Cafè Darling – Along the river Passer with views of the snow-capped mountains, Cafè Darling is the go-to for an aperitivo in the sun. Locals Damiano, Jessie, and Luca took over the caffe a year ago, breathing new life into the spot; it’s not always easy to score a seat during high season. 

Gigis – For the best cocktails in town, head to Gigis, also beside the river. Here, the chic, Scandi-style design complements drinks like the Watermelon Basil Cooler or the Elderflower Old Fashioned. Come on the early side to try the small plates, dished out until 9 PM. 

WHERE TO SHOP IN MERANO

The Monocle Shop – Visit this concept shop from Monocle magazine for a handpicked selection of design-forward pieces from northern Italy, Austria, Bavaria, and Switzerland. Managed by the lovely Linda, the shop is a great place to grab some holiday reading material. 

Haus Nr.13 – This shop-cum-gallery-cum-studio carries a curated collection of pieces from South Tyrolean artists and craftspeople, from geometric earrings to pastel porcelain. 

58 Chocolate – This minimalist’s dream makes fantastic bean-to-bar chocolate in flavors like Dark Juniper and Goat Milk. Look for the little shop down an alley off Via delle Corse (the red neon sign will give it away), pick up a few handcrafted bars or truffles to take home, and order the unsurprisingly superlative hot chocolate… and pair it with one of their chocolate chip cookies. 

WHAT TO DO IN MERANO

Kunst Meran – A beacon of contemporary art in the region, Kunst Meran showcases paintings, sculptures, and multimedia installations in a 500-square-meter, three-floor exhibition space. The museum is open year-round, with rotating exhibitions, so it’s a must-visit whatever the season. 

Frauenmuseum Meran – Located in a former convent of the Poor Clares in Merano’s historic center, the Women’s Museum tells the story of female emancipation, history, and justice through clothing, accessories, and everyday objects. Take one of their special city tours, dedicated to the women who shaped the history of Merano and South Tyrol.

Villa Freischütz – Built in the early 1900s, this aristocrats’ residence is now a museum where you can marvel at the unaltered interiors as well as the collections of the former owner Franz Fromm. The latter include cabinets from the 16th and 17th centuries, decorative arts, and works by Ellen Tornquist, Eduard Euler, and Georg Greve-Lindau. 

Kränzelhof 7 gardens & art – This garden, hedge maze, open-air gallery, and vineyard adds a dose of the fantastical to Merano. Inspired by English gardens, owner Count von Pfeil designed this lush, two-hectare estate–complete with gazebos and water features–that doubles as exhibition space for domestic and international artists.