Bolzano—Bozen to our German-speaking friends—is a curious city of crossroads. Street signs lean more German than Italian, snow-capped peaks rise above lush vineyards, Gothic facades open onto 300 meters of romantic porticoes, and prosciutto meets its match in smoky speck. A microcosm of South Tyrol (Südtirol), this city is where the Trenitalia line ends and where the Dolomites dominate every vista. It’s a haven for hikers and cyclists, with over 50 kilometers of bike paths and even more mountain trails—and at its heart, a walkable center that’s both traditionally alpine and contemporary cool.

When it came time to give this city a proper guide, there was only one local to turn to: Claudia Mumelter, who co-owns Hotel Saltus in nearby San Genesio (Jenesien) with her mom and sister. In her 30s, Claudia is the kind of woman you immediately want to be friends with—which is likely why she knows every shopowner in town. She curated this guide with the places she, born and raised in Bolzano, actually goes—from bakeries to bars to the seemingly endless green meadow near Hotel Saltus. Located about 20 minutes (and 800 m above) Bolzano, Hotel Saltus, a member of the Italy Segreta Selection, reflects the Mumelter family’s vision of slow living, with an emphasis on wellness and deeply attuned to its Alpine surroundings.

We’ve had the privilege of exploring Bolzano with Claudia, and now, you can too. Here, a guide to everything to do, see, buy, and eat while in Bolzano.

WHERE TO EAT IN BOLZANO

Vögele – Come weekly lunchtime, you’ll find me—and a predictable percentage of Bolzano residents—at this local institution, run by my best friend Damian’s parents. Inside resembles an old stube, with dark interiors, heavy (custom made) wooden chairs, and large communal tables, where the regulars crowd in to dine on traditional South Tyrolean cuisine: cannederli, cured and roast meats, spätzle, cheeses, and more. My favorite dish is the testine di vitello. Plus, the people watching is top tier. 

Pizzeria Veneziana – Calling all those who are team pizza romana. At Pizzeria Veneziana, the pizza is thin, but not too thin, topped with ingredients sourced from nearby. Try their signature Bolzanina with tomato sauce, mozzarella, spinach, mushrooms, salami, and stracchino, or their namesake Veneziana, with tomato sauce, fresh tomatoes, mozzarella, mascarpone, mushrooms, and arugula. They’ve perfected their pies over 30 years, and have just added a wide veranda for lovely al fresco dining. 

Löwengrube – For a more formal and elegant option, this charming restaurant is helmed by owner/chef Michael, whose presentations of Alpine-style cuisine earned a nod from Michelin. I opt for a seat in their lounge area and order a glass off their great wine list with an insalata di carciofi. The building has been home to a restaurant since the 16th century, making it one of the oldest restaurants in the city. 

Magdalener Hof – Though you might not expect to find great seafood in the mountains, Magdalener Hof will change your mind. Located within the eponymous hotel, the restaurant is run by Jakob and his mother Priska and has the most beautiful terrace in Bolzano. Though the whole menu is spectacular, the spaghetti allo scoglio—spaghetti with mixed seafood—is a must, best when paired with something local (or French) from their 14th-century wine cellar.

Carrettai Fly – I know it might seem strange to recommend an airport restaurant—especially when Bolzano is so well connected via railway—but this one really earns its spot. It’s one of the fanciest airport restaurants I’ve ever seen—even more hilarious considering how tiny the Bolzano airport is—and it attracts a crowd of locals who pop in without a boarding pass. The food, from homemade pastas to tartare and even their take on a poke bowl, is surprisingly exceptional. Great for aperitivo and nibbles as well.

Archivio 87 – A newer addition to town, this culinary experience is the brainchild of my friend Simon, who focuses on the relationship between gastronomy, culture, and the spaces we inhabit. Each dinner takes place at a new outstanding location, where you sit at a large communal table and enjoy a surprising (ever changing) menu prepared by Simon and other chefs he’s worked with over the years. For bookings and inquiries, check the website here. 

Gelateria Avalon – On a hot summer’s day, before and/or after dinner, there’s nothing that beats the heat like a good gelato. Enter: Gelateria Avalon. Owner Paolo Coletto is famous for his high quality ingredients and experimental flavors, such as goat milk, saffron, and Campari. I stick to the superb classics: una pallina di pistaccio e una di stracciatella (a scoop of pistachio and a scoop of straciatella). Closed in winter.

THE BEST BAKERIES & CAFÉS IN BOLZANO

Bar Caffè Gingerino – If you’re looking for a fast, expertly pulled espresso al banco, this is the place. The interior exudes the charm of a classic old-school café, which means one thing: reliability. Pair a fresh spremuta or cornetto with your fluffy cappuccino, or come by for a simple aperitivo.

Cafe Lintner – Come autumn, every Bolzano bakery makes their own version of the “cuore di castagne”—a pastry of chestnut paste, dark chocolate, and cream, and Lintner’s is my all-time favorite. All of the other pastries lining their glass counter—strudels, tiramisus, sacher tortes, cheesecakes—are excellent as well. 

Panetteria Grandi – I believe this is the best bakery in Bolzano. Bonus points that it’s right next to where I live, so I walk here most mornings with my dog Ciuki to start the day on a sweet note. I always have some of their focaccia at home, and they also have a great offering of regional delights—pretzels, strudel, poppy seed pastries, and more. 

Bäckerei Egger Martin (Jenesien) – In Alto Adige, merenda (snacktime) usually features cold cuts like speck, cheese, and bread, and it is holy. Every household, mountain hut, and hotel has their own version of merenda, but a key player is the thin, crunchy bread made of rye flour called “schüttelbrot”. This bakery in Jenesien makes the best you can find—and it’s what we serve at Hotel Saltus. All their other baked goods are equally exceptional. 

WHERE TO SHOP FOR FOOD IN BOLZANO

Mercato del Sabato – Just about every Saturday morning, I join the Bolzanini in heading to the mercato for a weekly grocery haul. Here, local farmers sell their vegetables—whatever’s in season—plus locally made cheeses, butters, soaps, and honey along stands filled with clothes and food trucks selling prepared things. Even if you don’t need groceries, it’s worth a pass-by. 

Zennaro – Located right next to the weekly market, this pescheria sells the best seafood in town. Friendly and elegant ladies expertly man the counter, each wearing a different shade of rossetto (lipstick). For over 60 years, they’ve been serving up the freshest fish—along with plenty of tasty tips on how to cook it just right.

WHERE TO DRINK IN BOLZANO 

Laurin Bar – I kind of have a thing with bars, and I think this is one of Bolzano’s most beautiful. Located inside the Parkhotel Laurin, this chic spot’s mixologists make signature cocktails like the “Dolomites Experience” with pinewood liquor, scottish drambuie, and sichuan pepper, or the “Südtiroler Speck-Martini” with “speck gin” (made by smoking juniper in the speck chamber pre-distillation). Every Friday, they have live jazz curated by Helga Plankensteiner and Michael Lösch. 

Banco 11 – You’ll always find me here for the best post-work aperitivo with friends. Just off Piazza Erbe and the market, this lively spot serves Italian wine, local taglieri, cicchetti-like snacks, and plenty of olives and taralli. In the winter, you can pair a local white with a plate of juicy oysters. 

WHERE TO SHOP IN BOLZANO

DAMA studio – There’s no better spot for women’s clothes in Bolzano… or, dare I say, Italy? Dagmar’s shop alone is one of Bolzano’s most well-curated spaces—part studio, part showcase for her handmade clothing. Using deadstock fabrics that would otherwise go to waste, she crafts shirts, dresses, skirts, pants, jackets (and shoes!) with clean, modern silhouettes in an array of classic colors and patterns. Each piece feels effortlessly feminine—and Dagmar herself is one of the coolest women you’ll meet. 

Gasser Teresa – Beneath Bolzano’s 12th-century porticoes, this is one of the city’s oldest shops, dating back to 1873 when Therese Gasser took it over from her aunt. Run for four generations by women affectionately known as the “Gasser Gals,” it has long been a go-to for buttons, zippers, shoelaces, and underwear, and it’s always buzzing with women of all generations.

Coltelleria Lorenzi – “Arrotino! È arrivato l’arrotino!” If you need your knives sharpened, this coltelleria, open since 1948, is where to go. The range of selection is museum-like, with lots of vintage offerings along with kitchen knives, pocket knives, beard trimmers, manicure kits, scissors, and more—enter at your own risk. 

Tommasi Gioielli – Opened in 1965, this family-run jewelry store carries prestigious international jewelry and watch brands. With an original location in Trento, it’s a go-to spot for anything sparkly—but don’t miss the Bolzano-exclusive downstairs: a room of vetri d’arte, with everything from vases to lighting to Gio Ponti’s Venini glassware collection. 

Zimmermann – This minimalist homeware shop is the kind of place you wander around for longer than anticipated thanks to a well-edited mix of homeware, linens, clothing, and accessories. You’re guaranteed to find something you didn’t know you needed.

WHAT TO DO IN BOLZANO

Salten – Bolzanini spend their weekends with family and friends in montagna; Salten, Europe’s highest larch plateau, is the place to be. With its wide larch meadows and small wooden huts with a constant view of the Dolomites, it is one of the most beautiful hiking areas in South Tyrol (and Italy as a whole). My favorite activity is to hike up from the car park in Jenesien (or directly from Hotel Saltus) until reaching the Gschnoferstall Alm, where you can enjoy a tris di canederli and hot apple cider with a truly insane view. 

Museion – This museum for modern and contemporary art is a hub of international artists, with rotating exhibitions and public programs that focus on what’s current, critical, and culturally relevant. Their permanent collection, established in the 1980s, features 4,4000 works, and the library conserves around 30,000 catalogs and monographs, 800 rare and artists’ books, and 30 subscriptions to international journals.

Fondazione Antonio Dalle Nogare – Beneath the ruins of Rafenstein Castle, this foundation is part gallery and part architectural marvel. Focused on conceptual and minimal art, it hosts exhibitions, residencies, and public programs, all free. 

WHERE TO STAY IN BOLZANO

Hotel Saltus – Saltus began with a hunch my great-grandfather Franz had in 1954: that the mountain air in the tiny village of San Genesio, perched above Bolzano, could heal. So, he built a hotel at 1,100 meters on the edge of a forest facing the Dolomites. Decades later, my sister Nadja, our mother Hedwig, and I reimagined it as a minimalist, wellness-focused stay. With skypools, wellness centers, yoga, and no clocks or TVs in the rooms, it’s a place for total restoration—helped by floor-to-ceiling windows that make each room feel like you’re deep within the forest. Our on-site restaurant still uses family recipes to prepare traditional South Tyrolean food, and the restaurant’s terrace has an unbeatable view.