Beachgoing pros in Puglia understand the sea’s winds and move accordingly. Whether you’re chasing a calm day or wind-filled waves, one step outside (or a glance at the weather app) will send you either east or west: to the Adriatic or the Ionian coasts, respectively. 

Many Pugliese locals, however, are less divided between the two seas. Despite the winds, where we go most often corresponds to where we were born, or where we (or our parents, or grandparents, or great grandparents, etc.) once decided would be our seaside getaway. After all, this is the very definition of villeggiatura: the Italian tradition of escaping the city during the summer, most often to the same seaside or countryside spot. Returning to the same destination is about connecting with familiar surroundings, routines, and even cherished friends only seen on these vacations; it’s one collective summertime experience, on repeat year after year, and, for us Pugliese, it’s distinctly Adriatic or Ionian. 

It’s also customary for families to have two residences–one by the sea for the summer and another a few kilometers inland for the winter. For the former, Taranto, on the Ionian coast, is a favorite pick. Here, the beaches are golden and sandy, with shallow, crystal clear waters perfect for swimming and water activities, especially for families and children. Tourism remains relatively local, and even during the peak season, it’s possible to find secluded stretches of coastline to enjoy the sea. Conversely, Puglia’s Adriatic coast, which runs the eastern length of the region, features more rocky coves, mixed in with some sandy beaches. In the summer, this coast gets more crowded due to renowned cities like Otranto and Polignano a Mare and the numerous beach resorts along its shores. In contrast, the Ionian coast is quieter, with less infrastructure and attractions; it’s overall less developed in terms of tourism, which can be a massive advantage for those seeking a relaxed vacation away from the crowds and mass tourism.

All of my happiest childhood memories are here on the Ionian coast. If you’re a lover of clear waters, fine sandy expanses, free beaches, and towering dunes, let the wind blow you to our side. Below are my five favorite free beaches in the province of Taranto, especially in the municipalities of Manduria and Maruggio, all reachable by car. Don’t forget to bring a picnic: you’ll want to spend the whole day at these spots. 

Campomarino Dunes – Along the coastal road between San Pietro and Campomarino, you’ll skirt this 6-km natural reserve of the dunes. The extensive stretches of golden sand are peppered with Mediterranean scrub and bordered by clear waters with small coves of clayey rock, where you can shelter from the sun in the hottest hours of summer. They’re especially marvelous towards the end of June and July when the wild thyme blooms, coloring them violet.


Salina Monaci – For birdwatching enthusiasts, walkers, and lovers of wild nature, this is another sandy beach not to be missed. You’ll reach the sea after passing by the vast salt pans, always frequented by brilliant migratory birds such as pink flamingos, cormorants, and herons.


Riserva Naturale della Foce del Fiume Chidro – For lovers of cold water, another unmissable beach is the one adjacent to the Nature Reserve of the Chidro River, where the currents of the spring water river meet those of the sea.
The water is very shallow, perfect for wading around and cooling off. 

Spiaggia di San Pietro – The beach of the small village of San Pietro boasts extremely fine and white sand. Its shallow, clear water is perfect for families, and kids can safely splash all day long.

Spiaggia d’Ayala – Also known as the “Beach of the Count,” this beautiful stretch on the Campomarino coast is protected by the splendid pine forest of Dalya Valva, making it a paradise for naturists–and that’s not to mention the fine white sand and clear turquoise water. 

Now all that’s left is to live the Ionian coast like a local. Bring an umbrella, a beach chair, and some frisella to prepare beachside: just immerse the frisella in the sea for a few seconds, and top with tomato, extra virgin olive oil, oregano, and salt.